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New Chenming (QPack) Kinda long....

TimKLL

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
80
My new build is complete – at least for now.
For the old hands here, you probably will be bored by this post, it is more for somebody considering a Qpack/Chenming, but I would like to thank all the members of the forum for some great info that helped with my research for the build.

I picked the Chenming case over the Aspire because I liked the silver and black. I also liked the side window but not the top window. Sure wish either one had the option to have two side windows but no top window. You can get no windows, 3 windows, or one window – Hello!, how about 2 (sides)? The issue of having a side window on the HDD side wasn’t as big of a deal until I finished it. Now I think the Zalman 7000 and the Vantec iceberq HDD cooler are worthy of their own window:

leftinsidesmall7ah.jpg


Oh well, looks like a window mod is in my future.

A couple of lessons learned that might help others:
Not all LiteOn opticals are the shorty version (170mm). I had an older LiteOn CD-ROM only (2 other burners in the house so didn’t really need another). Took it for granted that it would fit in the case after a PSU swap. Wrong. It was 195mm. Oh well, now I have a new LiteOn CD-RW/DVD-ROM that is 170mm. Read the specs or measure…
Several members here post accolades for the Yate Loon 120mm case fan in the Chenming. Mine came with a Sam Lung (???). I have no idea of the quality – I didn’t like it because it wasn’t mobo monitorable. Out it came and in went a 120mm Antec SmartCool. It draws straight from the PSU with a 4-pin pass-through molex, but does have the mobo 3-pin. It throttles up or down itself with its own thermistor. Mostly it stays way down because this case seems to stay pretty cool. Waaay quieter than the Sam Lung.

I chucked the Chenming PSU right away. I replaced it with a CoolMax EZ-Wire CU-400T http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817159047 I know, before you say it – CoolMax PSUs are listed elsewhere in this forum as an “Avoid”. I liked the looks and features, and the eggs were good for the people that bought it. I am very happy with it. It feels very solid and the looks/finish are outstanding. It has been rock-steady in all the monitoring I have done on it. I peeled the spec sticker off the side and put it on the top, so the nice satin-mirror finish on it looks great thru the window.

leftqtrsmall9nx.jpg


I really like the sleeved, modular cables. Really helps to keep the case organized. I actually like the CoolMax cables better than the ones with the Enermax Liberty 500 we just put in my son’s rig. The Coolmax has separate cables for standard 4-pin and SATA and they are sleeved from plug to plug. The PSU end plug is standard molex sized also. The Enermax cables are combo 4-pin and SATA plug, and they are not sleeved all the way. The Enermax PSU plugs are not standard either. I don’t doubt the quality of the Enermax, it better be good since we paid almost double what I paid for the CoolMax, I am just very happy with the CoolMax.

The stock CPU heat sink stayed in the box also, way too many recommendations here for the Zalman 7000.

mbfrontsmall1qz.jpg


The thing is a beast, works well and looks cool. No problems on the fit. I lusted after the 7700 but didn’t want to deal with quite that close of a fit. As heavy and large as the 7000 is I can’t imagine holding the 7700.

I had read some concerns here about SouthBridge heating. I yanked the Zalman 47 out of my old dead Shuttle and put it on the NB, and then the stock HS went on the SB with just a little grinding. It actually fit but was right up against the GPU and I didn’t like that. I beveled one edge of it with a grinder and some wet-dry sandpaper and it looks and fits very well.

mbleftqtrsmall9ao.jpg

hszoomsmall7yo.jpg


Altogether happy with the whole deal. After reading tons about the mobo choices I stuck with the ASUS because of past experience. Lots more room than my Shuttle for futzing around inside, while still being a nice compact little package. With the extra drive bay being handy for hiding cables, the quality and looks of the PSU cables, and a little extra work with all the other wires I think cable management is easy in this case.

leftsidesmall5tu.jpg


Again, the window on the left is cool
I do believe that a right side window mod is not too far down the road

rtqtrsmall4co.jpg
 
Hey, nice set up, I'm curious though, do you only have 1 hard drive in there with the hd cooler? Or does the hd cooler fit over one and you actually have 2? Please let me know, thanks!
 
Jelic:
1 HDD with the cooler.
The cooler:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835888113
and:
http://www.vantecusa.com/p_hdc_701a.html
slides under the tabs that help hold the HDD in the slot, taking up the room for a 2nd HDD. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't fit in over a 2nd HDD and let you put the case cover on.
I'm pretty sure that the way the case is designed - with the 120mm fan and the large holes just forward of the HDD holder - that the air going across the HDD would be sufficient to keep it/them cool. I just thought the HDD cooler looked pretty cool by itself. I started out buying one of the ones with the two 50mm fans on it, but the twin 50s were unbelievably loud. I was going to 7v mod the 70mm on this one, but you can't hear it over the case fan.

hddcooler4ux.jpg
 
TimKLL said:
Jelic:
1 HDD with the cooler.
The cooler:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835888113
and:
http://www.vantecusa.com/p_hdc_701a.html
slides under the tabs that help hold the HDD in the slot, taking up the room for a 2nd HDD. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't fit in over a 2nd HDD and let you put the case cover on.
I'm pretty sure that the way the case is designed - with the 120mm fan and the large holes just forward of the HDD holder - that the air going across the HDD would be sufficient to keep it/them cool. I just thought the HDD cooler looked pretty cool by itself. I started out buying one of the ones with the two 50mm fans on it, but the twin 50s were unbelievably loud. I was going to 7v mod the 70mm on this one, but you can't hear it over the case fan.

hddcooler4ux.jpg


Ohh man, :eek: , just recognized from this zoomed picture, that u've mounted ur hd cooler on the wrong side! Arrgh!

In that way it is totally useless! A hd cooler should blow air on the other side of the hard disk, the side where are all the electronical components, non on the side with the metallic cover.

Hope you understood!
 
Nice writeup, good pictures... you're one to realize that tripods are your friends ;)

Are you supposed to have both sticks of RAM in both blue slots? I thought it'd have to be one blue, one black.
 
Flip the HD over and mount the fan on the right side should work if you still want to see the pretty fan from the outside.
 
Korruption: I didn't actually use a tripod, it was a bipod - two elbows on the counter and hold the breath :p

agentzero9: Both PSUs are 140mm from front to back.

The Bear (and now Dreadlox): What you say about the fan being on the wrong side makes perfect sense, and I will flip the drive over and compare SMART temps on the drive. Here's my NOOB logic for putting it on that way: I thought that the other side of the drive was wide-open, therefore having good ventilation of the electronics (especially the way the ventilation is in this case). I thought that the metal side of the drive would act a little bit like a heatsink, especially when mounted in other systems horizontally, as opposed to the vertical mount in this one. I have felt the top side of a drive and noticed some heat there. Also, with a little bit of searching that I did (apparently not enough :p ) I saw some of the whole slot type HDD cooler type systems and they had mounted a pretty good heatsink on the metal/closed side of the drive. I have also seen some water cooled plates mounted to that side of the drive. After seeing your post (The Bear) I searched for mounting pictures and by far the predominant mounting is with the fan blowing on the electronics side.
Thanks for the tip!
 
Actually the best thing to do it compare test the both sides. If once side cools better than the other than go for it. Can't hurt, it just a HD cooler after all :)
 
Hey great setup but I have a question .

don't you worry about the Zalaman cpu heatsink/ shifting while transporting it to a lan party. I had one installed in an old aria and while transporting to a lan party the zalman heatshink shifted and pulled the cup out i got a few bent pins and had to change. Ever since then I am afraid of the zalman cpu heatsink that you purchased. Maybe my install was incorrect can anyone here explain.

Did I mess up? Or do I have a valid issue. Pleaes advise.
His system looks so good I am thinking of copying it but of course adding my own signature mods let me know
 
Korruption: Almost forgot your question about the RAM slots.
The mobo manual and the ASUS site say to do it the way I have it. While I was building a memory of someone on this forum mentioning that this might be an error flashed through my head. I searched all over and couldn't find anything that says that. For now I have to go with the manual and the ASUS site. It probably wouldn't hurt airflow/cooling if they could be staggered instead of next to each other, the slots are pretty close together.
 
Wonderful setup
Hey great setup but I have a question .

don't you worry about the Zalaman cpu heatsink/ shifting while transporting it to a lan party. I had one installed in an old aria and while transporting to a lan party the zalman heatshink shifted and pulled the cup out i got a few bent pins and had to change. Ever since then I am afraid of the zalman cpu heatsink that you purchased. Maybe my install was incorrect can anyone here explain.

Did I mess up? Or do I have a valid issue. Pleaes advise.
His system looks so good I am thinking of copying it but of course adding my own signature mods let me know
__________________
 
"you just hijacked my reply and question why"

???:confused:

I am the originator of the thread. I was answering a question from earlier in the thread. If that is "hijacking" your reply I apologize.

Regarding the 7000 coming loose - this is the first one I have had. This is the second time I have heard of the possibility of it coming loose. The first time was when I raised just that thought or question here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1001906
while discussing potential LAN party bags. The 7000 is a heavy beast and is only held down with 2 screws. Yes, I would be concerned about it busting loose in transit. Maybe a little Loctite on the screws or some strategically placed mini tie wraps?
Anybody else heard of this happening?
 
Yeah I messed up 2 CPU's using the zalman they really should make them fit in the bracket becuase it gives more support. I am so pissed when it happened. anyone have any suggestions.
 
Looks Sweet man, Ishould have my windowless Chenminby Tuesday. Your picks gave me great ideas! Thanks and take it EZ.
 
ALYNCH75 said:
Yeah I messed up 2 CPU's using the zalman they really should make them fit in the bracket becuase it gives more support. I am so pissed when it happened. anyone have any suggestions.

yeah, start your own thread about it and quit hyjacking this one, its about his case not your cpu noobness

OP, good job im really likeing the layout of this case, in the seconed pic, im seeing some nice rounded holes comeing out from under the face platehow hard do you think it would be to get the cables to go that route, and dive under the mobo??? you wouldnt see the wires hardly at all (the only trouble would be if the mobo mounts are shorter than standard and not allow the wire to just lay in there...) your way looks good but something about the way it comes of the back side of the case urks me

thore
 
I won't be able to get a definite answer on this until midday tommorow because I'm at work on a 12 hour overnight shift, but I don't think the cables would fit under the mobo. On this case the mobo sits on a removable tray that slides in and out. There isn't a whole lot of clearance underneath and the ends of the tray sort of lock into tabs that run pretty much the width of the board. I ran the sensor for the cpu thermo on the front of the case that way and the fit was pretty tight.
There is a ton of room inside that face plate, I re-routed a lot of the stuff in there to hide it, but the headers where the cables you are talking about are connected to actually stick out inside the case, instead of behind that plate.
I'll try to take a look tomorrow after I get home and get some sleep. If I can snap a pic or two that would help answer your ??s I'll do that too.
 
Great write up Tim. I decided to purchase the same case and CPU cooler you bought. I was hesitant at first because my friend bought a Qpack yesterday and I didnt like the windows. This one has only one so it's easier to look at. I guess I can always paint it :p How are your temps btw? I was thinking about sound deadening the case with something like "Dynamat". The case is very flimsy. Plus I hope my 600W Noisetaker will fit.
 
TimKLL said:
I won't be able to get a definite answer on this until midday tommorow because I'm at work on a 12 hour overnight shift, but I don't think the cables would fit under the mobo. On this case the mobo sits on a removable tray that slides in and out. There isn't a whole lot of clearance underneath and the ends of the tray sort of lock into tabs that run pretty much the width of the board. I ran the sensor for the cpu thermo on the front of the case that way and the fit was pretty tight.
There is a ton of room inside that face plate, I re-routed a lot of the stuff in there to hide it, but the headers where the cables you are talking about are connected to actually stick out inside the case, instead of behind that plate.
I'll try to take a look tomorrow after I get home and get some sleep. If I can snap a pic or two that would help answer your ??s I'll do that too.

a little clarification on my part, i dont mean all of the cables, mainly just the white ones (usb/firewire?) and the one in the black loom, (FP control) however, i broke out one of my programs and took a closer look at the holes i was thinking of as i see shiney right aginst the hole meaning its covered in plastic with no room, i also relised that the cables arnt attached *inside* the front panel but rather a PCB is jutting out the back into the case, meaning you would have to route the cables back into the front panel inorder to utilize the method i was thinking of, from what i can tell the culpret is the damn handle, they had to make a recess for it to slide into, well, said recess butts right aginst the case,

i also see a set of screws, best i can tell there helping to give the handle support, just to the side of them there are a bunch of holes, you could drill a larger hole there, run the cables down that side, acrossed the bottom and make them come out under the handel recess with yet one more hole

i see what you mean about the mobo tray there is no way to fit them in with that lip in the way...but you would only have to remove about 1" worth of lip to give the wires somewhere to go (right under the blue header, you shouldnt be able to see the cut at this location (after visiting newegg for more pics of the case its self ) i also see there is a hole in the mobo tray this a: gives you a routeing channel at this location and b: the lip on the inside would keep it rigid, i was going to recommed simply cutting the lip off altogether, but it would aid in hideing the hires and i also see there are clips that the tray locks into on the case, (this really dosent matter thought the tray slides under them,,, it would stay put any way)

the down side, this cable route would make it harder to remove the mobo (harder to install as well) when you went to go and take it out , you would have to leave enought slack in the linse so you can pull the tray out some remove 3 screws (between the ide and cmos chip, between the ram and south bridge (which means yankig the vid card) and between the south bridge and the blue com connector) flex the board slightly and slide the cables out , you would only have to slide them over 2 screw posts (cmos and com) but removeing the 3rd screw would give the board more flex over a larger surface, (its only about 3/16's in to get the cables out would work out to less than 1/64 worth of flex per inch acrossed the board which is doable , but you dont want to be doing it all the time... ) , if you do end up going this route, the only thing i would really worry about is a loose c-mos chip, just it back down just to be shure befor plugging the psu back in ( i use the handle end of a screw driver (plastic) and just give it a littel pressure to make shure its seated...

also, if the case is subject to vibration you will want to protect the cables from chafeing on the solder points on the backside of the mobo, (the chances of this becomeing a problem during the pc's usefull life span is next to none, but i like to cover my bases) this is ver easy to fix with a piece of oaktag (cardboard) you only have to cover where the wires are, but it may be easyer to just cut a piece that would fit that rectangle from the front of the case to the back from the hole in the tray and just past the edge of the board (give your self a littel (about 1/8 in) to fold up the side of the board at the cables exit point... might as well do just a littel at the front of the tray for fold up there as well)


there is plenty of room under the mobo for the cables them selfs... even with the oaktag the stand offs are 8 mm if im not mistaken the cables (if there the same as mine and they appere to be) are only about 5mm and the oaktag is less than 1mm...

i think one of my cases is basicly wired this way, i'll see if i can remeber wich one it is and get you some pics..

sorry for the long winded post lol

thore
 
oceancyc: I'm running around 36-38C on CPU at idle, 30-32C on the case. I don't run any really serious system hitters, just an older FPS (BlackHawk Down). After an hour or so of that I'm hitting about 42C on the CPU. Part of that is my rig is on a slide out drawer in a desk and if I forget to slide it out to give it a little air I will bump it to 42C or more. Otherwise the 120mm just throttles up a bit and it stays pretty cool.

Thore: Yeah, I figured you just meant the "white" cables (1394, USB, FP, etc.) Geez- Give a n00b a little credit here :p :D I still had doubts about them fitting, but it sounds like you have it figured down to the gnats ass. xfoureyedgeek pretty much confirmed it with pics. Now I won't try to slide out my mobo and take any pics. All of your details about the difficulty in sliding the mobo in and out could raise another question - depending on a person's wiring ability and how much they want to get into it. What about running ribbon cable underneath the mobo, split to header-type pins "sneaking" up the sides, and then connecting to one big honking plug at the front of the sled/tray? All the wires would have to be run from the face plate to the connector that this would mate with, mounted just forward of where the mobo retention clips are. Then you'd just have one big plug to disconnect when you wanted to slide out the tray.

I think I could handle all of this but for right now I am going to sit back and enjoy what I've got. :D
 
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