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New Camera!!

C

croww

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 15, 2002
Messages
134
Purchased a 35mm SLR to do some Star Trails, Meteor Pics, and anything that requires extended exposures. Anyone here use a K1000 before?

Purchased the 28mm 2.5 lens, as well as a 50mm 1.4, a cable release and a screw mount adapter. Ran a roll of film through to make sure it works..they came out good but I sure have alot to learn what with everything being manual :)

Here are a few pics :

Pentax%20K1000%20Front.jpg


Pentax%20K1000%20Left.jpg


Pentax%20K1000%20Right.jpg


Pentax%20K1000%20Top.jpg
 
The Pentax K1000. It's a great starter camera. All manual controls. I still have mine somewhere, and I love it. I miss shooting film. Might have to dig it out and start shooting some more.
 
We use that Camera in our University Camera club, because its full manual, and simple to use.

Cheers,
 
Well what you have ther is the newer (more plastic) model of the K1000, it came out after the asashi K1000. It is agreat camera, and very durable, not quite as much as its prediccescor, but good none the less. Do you know how to use the thing or do ya need some info? I am shure there are plenty of prople willing to help, including myself.

Do you have anyother lenses for it? or jsut that wide angle? You should look into geting like a 50 mm, and maby a small zoom like a 28-105. Or what ever sets ya boyant. Before you go spending money on lenses you may want to get a differant camera, you dont want to build a system on old technology, and the lenses dont get much cheaper with age.
 
Hey Phreak :) I have the instructions for it and a very basic understanding of photography. VERY BASIC :)

I mostly bought it to do star trails and meteor pics, that sort of thing. I don't plan on building a big set of lenses. If I ever have the money I'd definately go with a 300d or 10d, but thats so far in the future that it's not even visible.

I got the Pentax Asahi 50mm 1:2 Lens with the camera. I ordered a 28mm 1:2.8 Vivitar for $20 bucks on Ebay and it's done great. Thats the one in the pictures. I also picked up a Pentax Asahi 50mm 1:1.4 Lens off Ebay for another $20, since I've heard that the faster 50mm will be important for what I plan to do with it. I've considered a zoom but I don't think I need it right now. My Oly C-740 has a pretty nice zoom for when I need it, and since I don't plan on running alot of film through my camera in daylight I'm pretty sure I can stick to the wider angle lenses.

As always, any suggestions are welcome :)
 
so for things like that i usualy use like a 200 asa film. That way the light that there is will leave nive trails, but tha ambient light wont over expose the rest of the frame. Now star trails, how long of an exposure are we talkin here, secconds minuits, hours?
 
Originally posted by PhreakPhy
so for things like that i usualy use like a 200 asa film. That way the light that there is will leave nive trails, but tha ambient light wont over expose the rest of the frame. Now star trails, how long of an exposure are we talkin here, secconds minuits, hours?
Click to expand...

VELVIA 50 LONG EXPOSURES BABY!!! Trust me, painting with light is AWSOME. I read it in a copy of outdoor photographer, and PopPhoto.

Seriously, use a slow speed slide film, and extend your exposures. You have a good camera for doing that (your shutter isn't electronicly controled). Remember to calculate the exposure times so that you get good exposures. Check google for more information on really long exposures, or pick up a book on it. Its really quite fun. I use my Canon AE-1 for long exposures because my Elan 7E uses batteries to keep the shutter open.

As for how long, expect 10 to 25 minutes or so. Don't do this in the city, the ambiant light will mess up your exposures. Check PopPhoto December 2003 for more info, or Outdoor Photographer Feb 2004 for further information. Its one of the kinds of photography that I am into (Nature, and wildlife are also in there).

Cheers,

Cheers,
 
Hey Phreak, I was thinking Kodak Versatility 400. We're talking 20 minutes to 3 hours at around 1.4 to 2.8, according to alot of sites I've read.

Eigt, no problem on not doing it near the city. My family owns alot of hill land in Kentucky..we're all hill people so I've got places to go that are 30+ miles from the nearest city :) I was curious about slide film..can you tell me how it works and how it differs from 30mm film? How do you view slide film, how do you make prints, etc?
 
Well for one thing you don't really make prints from slide film. The major differences is that with print film you are getting color corrected goop from the mini-lab. Slide film you have truer colors, and better highlights, and almost NO exposure latitude (as in you get one chance).

Mini-Labs alter your pictures to a 'profile' on thier system. It does some color corrections.

slide film is essentially Color Positive Film. Once developed the 'negative' its actually the image (you can see the true image on the film strip). Slide film or CHROMES as they are called or even E-6 film (there are others like K-14) that refers to the kind of processing.

When you shoot with slide film if you get it right, and you can its not hard you get way better results in color, and detail then you would get with print film. Buy a roll of Slide film and give it a try, and see the results. Its a little more expensive, but worth it. Use Fujichrome Velvia RVP 50 135-36 film. It will give you outstanding results if you are careful in your metering, and exposures (over/under exposures showup alot easier with slide film).

Cheers,
 
From the sounds of it, croww may not eb extremely experianced. I usualy shoot Fugi Superia, the stuff you can buy just about anywhere. Veliva, and other "specialty" films may be hard to find and have processed. All my experiance is with negative films, and all i ever process myself is B&W. I take my color to the local camera shop. I have no experiance with slide films, but have heard good things. Harder to shoot with, but better results. Its worth a try, worst case senerio, your out a fiew bucks for film and procesing.

What ever film you use, i wouldnt use 400. It will be to fast for what you are doing, at the most use 200. The faster speed of film, the grainyer it will be. and the 400 would just expose too fast.
 
For night shots, keep the ISO low, because it produces the nicest images. A really nice 400 speed film is Kodak Portra 400VC. Its not slide film, but plain C-41. Its color is well saturated, and looks spectacular for 400 speed film. I ONLY shoot in the 100 ISO range Fuji Reala Professional (135-36). Its as good a print film as you are going to get.

If you want to also ask your lab to do NO corrections to your prints. That way you can get what you really exposed. I do that for my C-41 negatives.

Cheers,
 
Ya portra is good stuff, i shoot portra 160 NC at my work. For my amature stuff i just shoot normal old fugi, itc inexpencive, and probably better than the kodak you can buy at stores.

BTW, the Elan 7 is a great camera, i own one too. I didnt get the eye controled focus tho.
 
Hey Eigt, Phreak, I've read into the 'accuracy' of slide film and it sounds nice..but what I'm still not sure about is HOW do you view the film LOL. I know it's a stupid question but..well, with 35mm I get a nice little print 4x6 and I look at it and you know, theres my picture. With my digicam I upload it to my PC and stare at it on the monitor and..you know :) But with the slide film..hehe, how do I LOOK at it? I know it's probably a stupid question but I'm just not sure if I understand if you get prints out of it or not, or do you have to look at it in a slide viewer like..projected up on a wall?

Also, how is it harder to shoot with? My first few night exposures came back today and they came out very nice. Some ambient light on the horizon really lit up the bottoms but I got nice streaks and I was very pleased with them. The settings were easy I found, focus on infinity set apeture as low as possible and expose for 20 minutes. Voila, great pics (The color was a bit green though like someone mentioned in another post). Anyway, just wondering what the difference is in terms of ease of use, and exactly how I view the pics :)

I used 400 speed Kodak Versatility for last nights night shots. I didn't see the grain in the longer exposures but in one exposure I did for about 5 minutes, I saw some noise along with the stars.I've read about Superia, I think I need to try that next, and I'll look at Portra too if I can find it around here. What was the C-41 reference? Is that a type of 35mm film?

I'll go 200 speed next, then 100. Thanks for the suggestions guys :)
 
Actually your questions are quite valid. Slide film you generally do 3 things. 1. Lightbox, and a magnifying loupe. This is to see the detail and color accuracy of the slide. 2. Slide projector. Just like Uncle Bob, and Aunt Mary's that they made you watch thier borning camping slides. 3. Scan them. You can also just hold them up to the light to see them.

As for why they are harder to shoot with. Well they arn't harder to shoot with really, just not as forgiving as print film. Print film has a very large exposure latitude as in if you make a mistake in exposure (+/-) a stop or 1/2 stop it won't really matter because during the printing process its corrected. Now you can ask for NO correction, but unless you do its hard to tell exactly what you shot with print film. Chromes on the other hand have almost NO exposure latitude. Either you get it right the first time, or you will turn out with a mucky under/over exposed slide. You MAY be able to get away with a 1/3, or even 1/2 a stop latitude with some slide films but when you use the 'best' Fujichrome RVP Velvia 135-36 you have NONE at all. Usually Kodak produces some slide film with exposure latitude. Check the side of the film box for that information.

Sorry for the C-41 reference, it just flies out sometimes. C-41 referes to the process code or number that corresponds to Color Print Film developing. Check the side of your film canister, or film box and you will see that code. It tells the developer what kind of processing to use. Slide film (Chromes) use E-6, or K-14 (although K-14 is being discontinued?). There are others but that may just confuse the life out of you. Generally when people say C-41 they mean color print film.

Two suggestions. Stop using Kodak Gold (other than 100), and Kodak Max film they SUCK! Go pick up a roll of Fujicolor Reala 135-36 (135-36 means "35mm film in a 36 exposure canister). That film will change the way you look at prints. If you want a really nice fast film get Kodak Portra 400VC. It will cost you a bit more, but atleast shoot 1 roll to see what its like, and compare it to your 400 MAX.

Where are you located. Look around for a professional photostore in your area. They will have those other kinds of film. Make sure if you get Reala, or the 400VC it comes out of a fridge. The shelf stuff is consumer film and you don't what that. If you must stick with consumer film (cost etc) try Fuji Superia 400, but not 800 its yucky. Just a little note I hate all 200 speed film. I find it useless because I can get the same results with 100 speed film.

I hope that clears up any issues. You can MSN me if you want, eigtball@sympatico.ca or email me if you have further questions. I read and study photography almost everyday, because I am addicted to it, and its become my passion.

Cheers,
 
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