New Build....

[Bossy573]

Hey folks. My first build since 2008. Trying to keep the budget as close to $1,000.00 as possible. PC will be for general use, with some higher-end gaming thrown in. I do intend to overclock the CPU and GPU.

Because this is my first build in almost 5 years, I have had some catching up to do and have spent the better part of the last 2 months doing some pretty extensive research. But my level of knowledge is admittedly pretty poor, so take it easy on me if some of my choices/ questions seem silly.

I have researched extensively and was very close to an AMD system based on an FX-8350 proc. However, the consensus from all I have read is that an Intel system is just better, especially for a general use home PC. It seems a system based on an 2500K is good for now and the next couple of years at least. I would prefer to have this system last for a while with an upgrade to the CPU if necessary a few years down the line. Frankly, my current system is based on an E6600 OC'd to 3.2 ghz and still runs pretty strong and has been great for 4+ years.

I like Windows 8 and that will be the OS.

I have had to make a few sacrifices to keep the machine close to budget.

So then, herewith is what I have chosen:

• Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge ($199.00)
• ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ($127.00)
• COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30.00)
• GeIL Black Dragon 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 ($70.00)
• Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 750W Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE (100.00)
• Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s ($90.00)
• SanDisk ReadyCache SDSSDRC-032G-G26 2.5" 32GB (already have this - will use as a cache drive)
• Western Digital My Passport 1TB USB 3.0 Red External Hard Drive (already have this- external data back-up)
• XFX Double D FX-787A-CDFC Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ($229.00 with 4 free games - FC3, MOH: WF, Dirt 3, TwoWorlds)
• ASUS 24X DVD Burner ($20.00)
• Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Black Pearl Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($120.00 - the "silent" part is very appealing. My current rig sounds like a jet.)
• Creative X-FI Xtreme Gamer (already have)
• Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit (Full Version) - OEM ($100.00)

The whole shebang comes in at $1,087.00.

The big sacrifice I had to make to keep the machine cost down was no dedicated SSD. I would prefer one SSD to keep all my data on but we are talking 512GB = $400.00. I don't like the sound of an OS only SSD as it seems like a lot of work to have stuff thrown across 2+ drives. The performance I am getting out of the ScanDisk cache drive now is pretty spiffy so I went with a traditional HDD with the ScanDisk as a cache drive. Do you think a Raid set-up with 2 HDD's in Raid 0 would be worth the cost of a 2nd Seagate drive?

Waddya think?

 

[Dock Ellis]

I would suggest the i5-3570K if you plan on getting a Z77 board. I love my 2500k, it's a phenomenal CPU with a great price and a lot of headroom, but the Z77 chipset really shines when you pair it with an Ivy Bridge CPU. Especially if you plan on using SSD caching.

 

[Bossy573]

I would suggest the i5-3570K if you plan on getting a Z77 board. I love my 2500k, it's a phenomenal CPU with a great price and a lot of headroom, but the Z77 chipset really shines when you pair it with an Ivy Bridge CPU. Especially if you plan on using SSD caching.

Many thanks. 3570K is a better chip then? My thought was a Z77 board was more "future proof," but I would guess that is a game that is not winnable.

 

[Bossy573]

3570k adds $30 to the cost. That is acceptable. I had been reading heat was an issue with this CPU.....

 

[Dangman]

Please answer the following questions:
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.
6) Will you be overclocking?
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video? UEFI? etc.

The big sacrifice I had to make to keep the machine cost down was no dedicated SSD. I would prefer one SSD to keep all my data on but we are talking 512GB = $400.00. I don't like the sound of an OS only SSD as it seems like a lot of work to have stuff thrown across 2+ drives. The performance I am getting out of the ScanDisk cache drive now is pretty spiffy so I went with a traditional HDD with the ScanDisk as a cache drive. Do you think a Raid set-up with 2 HDD's in Raid 0 would be worth the cost of a 2nd Seagate drive?

It's honestly not that much extra work to have an OS only + small apps SSD drive unless you're the extremely lazy and poorly organized type. A RAID 0 setup will not be worth the extra cost of a second Seagate drive since you can get a seperate SSD for not much more than a 2nd Seagate drive. The seperate SSD will add far greater improvements than a RAID 0 array.

3570k adds $30 to the cost. That is acceptable. I had been reading heat was an issue with this CPU.....

Only when you start doing a ton of overclocking.

 

[Bossy573]

Please answer the following questions:
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.

USA - Buffalo, NY

6) Will you be overclocking?

Yes (see original post)

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

Between now and Thanksgiving.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video? UEFI? etc.

Raid: Yes

Crossfire: Yes (future upgrade)

Firewire: No.

USB 3.0: Yes

SATA 6Gb/s: Yes

eSata: No

Onboard video: Negative

UEFI: Light years ahead of my bios now - yes.

Etc. I was thinking mSata might be another good way to add a cache drive. Would it be better to use Intel's SRT rather than ScanDisk's program?


It's honestly not that much extra work to have an OS only + small apps SSD drive unless you're the extremely lazy and poorly organized type. A RAID 0 setup will not be worth the extra cost of a second Seagate drive since you can get a seperate SSD for not much more than a 2nd Seagate drive. The seperate SSD will add far greater improvements than a RAID 0 array.

Only when you start doing a ton of overclocking.

I kinda figured as much with the Raid array. Thank you. I might use a Raid 1 array for data security.

Actually, my problem is I'm too organized - to a fault. I have a demanding job which gives me limited free-time - and it is simply easier for me to have 1 drive. Besides which, if I was to set-up a multiple drive array I really would not know what I am doing.

I plan to overclock but it will not be "extreme" as I do not have the time to push things to the limit. I will overclock the chip because it is made to be overclocked - giving me a faster machine and better value for my purchase. I'll find a good, stable place and let it ride there.

 

[Dangman]

USA - Buffalo, NY

How far are you from these Microcenter locations?:
http://microcenter.com/site/stores/westbury.aspx
http://microcenter.com/site/stores/yonkers.aspx

I kinda figured as much with the Raid array. Thank you. I might use a Raid 1 array for data security,

RAID 1 doesn't assure data security. It justs assures data uptime. RAID 1 doesn't protect against accidental or malicious corruption, deletion, modification, or removal of data.

Actually, my problem is I'm too organized - to a fault. I have a demanding job and it is simply easier for me to have 1 drive. Besides which, if I was to set-up a multiple drive array I really would not know what I am doing.

Ok that's a bit confusing to me but I'll focus on that later.

Etc. I was thinking mSata might be another good way to add a cache drive. Would it be better to use Intel's SRT rather than ScanDisk's program?

IMO, those caches drives aren't worth it.

 

[Bossy573]

How far are you from these Microcenter locations?:
http://microcenter.com/site/stores/westbury.aspx
http://microcenter.com/site/stores/yonkers.aspx

Those are both downstate - the Westbury location probably has not had power since Sandy came ashore. I go there whenever I go down to visit family (LI is 400 or so miles from Buffalo). Yonkers is just north of Manhattan and pretty much not an option.

 

[Bossy573]

RAID 1 doesn't assure data security. It justs assures data uptime. RAID 1 doesn't protect against accidental or malicious corruption, deletion, modification, or removal of data.


Ok that's a bit confusing to me but I'll focus on that later.


IMO, those caches drives aren't worth it.

1. I thought Raid 1 writes data to both drives?

2. Excellent. I'm confused and it comes across very well!

3. The ScanDisk drive I'm using now is very good. It is a cost-efficient solution.

 

[crzykid71]

Hey folks. My first build since 2008. Trying to keep the budget as close to $1,000.00 as possible. PC will be for general use, with some higher-end gaming thrown in. I do intend to overclock the CPU and GPU.

Because this is my first build in almost 5 years, I have had some catching up to do and have spent the better part of the last 2 months doing some pretty extensive research. But my level of knowledge is admittedly pretty poor, so take it easy on me if some of my choices/ questions seem silly.

I have researched extensively and was very close to an AMD system based on an FX-8350 proc. However, the consensus from all I have read is that an Intel system is just better, especially for a general use home PC. It seems a system based on an 2500K is good for now and the next couple of years at least. I would prefer to have this system last for a while with an upgrade to the CPU if necessary a few years down the line. Frankly, my current system is based on an E6600 OC'd to 3.2 ghz and still runs pretty strong and has been great for 4+ years.

I like Windows 8 and that will be the OS.

I have had to make a few sacrifices to keep the machine close to budget.

So then, herewith is what I have chosen:

• Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge ($199.00)
• ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ($127.00)
• COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30.00)
• GeIL Black Dragon 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 ($70.00)
• Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 750W Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE (100.00)
• Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s ($90.00)
• SanDisk ReadyCache SDSSDRC-032G-G26 2.5" 32GB (already have this - will use as a cache drive)
• Western Digital My Passport 1TB USB 3.0 Red External Hard Drive (already have this- external data back-up)
• XFX Double D FX-787A-CDFC Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ($229.00 with 4 free games - FC3, MOH: WF, Dirt 3, TwoWorlds)
• ASUS 24X DVD Burner ($20.00)
• Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Black Pearl Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($120.00 - the "silent" part is very appealing. My current rig sounds like a jet.)
• Creative X-FI Xtreme Gamer (already have)
• Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit (Full Version) - OEM ($100.00)

The whole shebang comes in at $1,087.00.

The big sacrifice I had to make to keep the machine cost down was no dedicated SSD. I would prefer one SSD to keep all my data on but we are talking 512GB = $400.00. I don't like the sound of an OS only SSD as it seems like a lot of work to have stuff thrown across 2+ drives. The performance I am getting out of the ScanDisk cache drive now is pretty spiffy so I went with a traditional HDD with the ScanDisk as a cache drive. Do you think a Raid set-up with 2 HDD's in Raid 0 would be worth the cost of a 2nd Seagate drive?

Waddya think?

Good choices, shop around a bit get the best prices you can or combo items. Nice case

 

[Dangman]

1. I thought Raid 1 writes data to both drives?

It does. But it doesn't protect against what I said earlier. RAID 1 only protects your data in the event of a HDD death/crash. As such, it cannot be considered data security.

2. Excellent. I'm confused and it comes across very well!

Ok, if you're really that organized, multiple drives shouldn't be an issue at all. So when you said that your ability to organize is high but multiple drives wouldn't work, that confused me. I've never run into that before.

3. The ScanDisk drive I'm using now is very good. It is a cost-efficient solution.

Gonna have to agree to disagree here.

 

[Bossy573]

Ok, if you're really that organized, multiple drives shouldn't be an issue at all. So when you said that your ability to organize is high but multiple drives wouldn't work, that confused me. I've never run into that before.

Well, I have been running a PC with just a C drive - pretty much forever. Pretty much load the OS and have everything else go on the same drive. Windows takes care of everything, I know where everything is. I guess the real problem is I would not know how to set my PC up if I used an SSD for the OS and another drive for everything else. Lets say I was to use a 120GB drive for my OS and then a 7200rpm drive for everything else, what is the point? The OS would boot fast (it boots fast now in Win8), but if I went to load a game stored on the HDD, wouldn't load times be constrained by the speed of that drive?

Like I said, my last build was in 2008 and I have been struggling to catch up. Your patience is appreciated.

 

[Dangman]

Well, I have been running a PC with just a C drive - pretty much forever. Pretty much load the OS and have everything else go on the same drive. Windows takes care of everything, I know where everything is. I guess the real problem is I would not know how to set my PC up if I used an SSD for the OS and another drive for everything else.

Well just google how to move your documents folder to another drive and you'll be set on that front. Or make extensive use of the libraries feature of Windows 7 and probably 8. As for programs, just take the extra 5 seconds when you're installing an application to correctly set the right drive.

Lets say I was to use a 120GB drive for my OS and then a 7200rpm drive for everything else, what is the point? The OS would boot fast (it boots fast now in Win8), but if I went to load a game stored on the HDD, wouldn't load times be constrained by the speed of that drive?

It would but games would actually load faster since the OS would not be using that HDD for various OS related activities. So in other words, you're gonna get the full performance of the HDD with a seperate SSD and HDD setup rather than a single HDD setup.

 

[Bossy573]

It would but games would actually load faster since the OS would not be using that HDD for various OS related activities.

OK, thanks. Is a 120 GB SSD a good size for a boot drive then? I would guess Windows, Office, misc. smaller programs would fit easily on that......

 

[Dangman]

OK, thanks. Is a 120 GB SSD a good size for a boot drive then? I would guess Windows, Office, misc. smaller programs would fit easily on that......

Yes a 128GB (120GB SSDs are often of lower quality due to them being Sandforce or some other low quality SSD controller brand) SSD is a good size. I recommend the Crucial M4 or Samsung 830 series SSDs.

 

[Bossy573]

Yes a 128GB (120GB SSDs are often of lower quality due to them being Sandforce or some other low quality SSD controller brand) SSD is a good size. I recommend the Crucial M4 or Samsung 830 series SSDs.

Again, Thank you. The M4 has a Marvell controller. Does this mean anything in view of the ASRock motherboard I selected?

 

[Dangman]

Again, Thank you. The M4 has a Marvell controller. Does this mean anything in view of the ASRock motherboard I selected?

No. Speaking of the motherboard, at $136 shipped, it's not that good of a choice considering HardOCP's reviews of past AsRock mobos. Sure plenty of people have bought it but that doesn't mean it's good: Plenty of people still buy shitty PSUs or food that's stupidly unhealthy for them. So I recommend the MSI Z77A-GD55, Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H, or Asus P8Z77-V LK motherboards.

 

[Bossy573]

No. Speaking of the motherboard, at $136 shipped, it's not that good of a choice considering HardOCP's reviews of past AsRock mobos. Sure plenty of people have bought it but that doesn't mean it's good: Plenty of people still buy shitty PSUs or food that's stupidly unhealthy for them. So I recommend the MSI Z77A-GD55, Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H, or Asus P8Z77-V LK motherboards.

The Gigabyte board is pretty nice. I'll go with that.

Adding a SSD, Gigabyte motherboard and 3570K pushes the cost to $1,250.00. I can live with that I guess.

Have I assembled a decent machine for $1,250.00?

 

[Dangman]

Yes. Though I would recommend Corsair or G.Skill RAM instead.

 

[Bossy573]

Yes. Though I would recommend Corsair or G.Skill RAM instead.

Did some reading and I'm going with the MSI board instead.

The RAM recommendation based on known quality issues?

Howzabout these:

G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C10D-16GAO

 

[Dangman]

Did some reading and I'm going with the MSI board instead.

Good choice.

The RAM recommendation based on known quality issues?/QUOTE]
No. More of "I've never anything good or bad about them" and "I've never used them" reasoning. With Corsair and G.Skill, they're confirmed to be pretty decent.

G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C10D-16GAO

Decent enough.

 

[Bossy573]

$1,300.00 shipped. Sleep on it tonight, make changes and order tomorrow, have it to build this Saturday.

Many thanks.

Any further suggestions from anyone, please let me know.

 

[Dangman]

Post an up to date list right now so that we can see what's everything like.

 

[Bossy573]

Post an up to date list right now so that we can see what's everything like.

• Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge ($219.00)
• MSI Z77A-GD55 LGA 1155 ($139.00)
• COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30.00)
• Kingston HyperX Blu Red Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 ($79.00)**
• Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 750W Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE ($100.00)
• Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s ($90.00)
• Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD1 2.5" 128GB SATA III ($114.99)
• Western Digital My Passport 1TB USB 3.0 Red External Hard Drive (already have this- external data back-up)
• XFX Double D FX-787A-CDFC Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ($229.00 with 4 free games - FC3, MOH: WF, Dirt 3, TwoWorlds)
• ASUS 24X DVD Burner ($20.00)
• Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Black Pearl Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($120.00 - the "silent" part is very appealing. My current rig sounds like a jet.)
• Creative X-FI Xtreme Gamer (already have)
• Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit (Full Version) - OEM ($100.00)

**The other memory is sold out.

$1,270.00 shipped.

All lined up and the trigger is cocked......

 

[Dangman]

Setup looks ok to me.

 

[Bossy573]

Setup looks ok to me.

Thanks. Your (and the others who contributed) help is appreciated.

Just seems like so much money. Worth it I guess. The PC is pretty much the prime entertainment device in the house. Might as well have a good one.

 

[Dangman]

Good luck with the build.

 

[John**]

Yes a 128GB (120GB SSDs are often of lower quality due to them being Sandforce or some other low quality SSD controller brand) SSD is a good size. I recommend the Crucial M4 or Samsung 830 series SSDs.

What makes you say sandforce controllers are low quality? I want to understand how you have measured it ? Do you have a sandforce drive that provided serious malfunctions or problems ? The reason i am checking is because i own a sandforce drive and i have had no problems or quality issues with it. The same is the case with all sandforce owning people i know. Sure Sandforce has some BSOD issues about a year back (I experienced that as well) , but so did samsung, Marvel and indilinx controller based ssd's. Infact, every controller has had some problem or another during various stages of their product cycle, but one can't judge them with the same reference. I dont think any of the controllers available in the market today can be termed as bad or low quality.

 

[Dangman]

What makes you say sandforce controllers are low quality? I want to understand how you have measured it ? Do you have a sandforce drive that provided serious malfunctions or problems ?

I don't own a Sandforce due to the numerous posts I've seen in the SSD and Data Storage Subforum of people with issues with their Sandforce based SSDs. While yes when properly supported and consistently tweaked, Sandforce can be good as evident by Intel's 520 series SSDs (Not entirely sure if the encryption bug is directly related to Sandforce but it's hardly a major issue IMO). But not many SSD companies went that far. Not to mention that the Sandforce SSDs still have that long history of issues.

Sure Sandforce has some BSOD issues about a year back (I experienced that as well) , but so did samsung, Marvel and indilinx controller based ssd's. Infact, every controller has had some problem or another during various stages of their product cycle, but one can't judge them with the same reference.

While yes just about every controller has had issues, Sandforce is the one with the most amount of issues. Their long history of issues combined with the fact that there are now faster non-Sandforce based SSDs out there that cost the same or less than some Sandforce SSDs means that I see very little reason to recommend a Sandforce. They're not much cheaper nor are they that much faster, if at all, and are smaller sized than non-Sandforce SSDs (128GB VS 120GB, 256GB VS 240GB, etc).

 

[Bossy573]

Well, finally got up the nerve and pulled the trigger on this. Made a couple of changes.

1. Switched out the Crucial M4 SSD for a Samsung 830 128 GB SSD. Saved $25.00 due to a sale price.
2. Switched out the Seagate HDD for a WD Black - same specs. Reviews seem to indicate the WD is slightly better. +$10.00.
3. Bumped the mobo up to the MSI Z77A-GD65 LGA 1155 Intel Z77. Sale price $149.00 = +10.00.
4. Switched out the PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Semi Modular High Performance Power Supply. I asked myself if I will ever crossfire 2 cards and the answer was "Hell no. One of these video cards is enough to drive me into bankruptcy." And besides I wanted a modular PSU. So +$10.00 for that.
5. The biggie: Missed out on the XFX GPU sale price and free games. So I searched and came across this: SAPPHIRE 100352-2L Radeon HD 7950 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16. Comes with 3 free games. Everything I read said I would not regret the upgrade. So I said screw it - might as well. ($299.00 or +$70.00 - I have an Asus 23" monitor - 1080p BTW)

The whole enchilada came to $1,350.00 shipped. $300.00 over budget (+$80.00 over the list in the post above) but I figure the components I spent extra on should make for the best PC I've ever owned and something I can use for the next 3 years+ without worry. Should have it mid-week and will probably put it together Friday after work. Spend Saturday loading up software and whammo - there you go.

I stalled because I wanted to give an AMD proc. every chance. I shopped the hell out of the Vishera and Trinity chips but every acceptable solution I came up with (no Trinity solution was acceptable) I ended up saying why not spend the extra $50.00 - $100.00 and get the identical Intel set-up? Feel sorry for AMD. Seems like they are in a no win situation. Their procs. are good, and I wanted to get one, but I didn't.

Anyway, any suggestions about putting this thing together? Or pretty much plop it all in there, press the power button and pray......

 

[beto]

Anyway, any suggestions about putting this thing together? Or pretty much plop it all in there, press the power button and pray......

You are going to use the Samsung SSD as an OS/Boot drive and the WD Black for data I am assuming? Not sure what level of help you are looking for or what your experience is concerning assembling a computer and getting it up and running but here is a basic plan of attack (what I would do anyway)...

Make every effort to ground yourself. You don't want your new components negatively effected by static.

Look through your motherboard manual and have a copy of it handy for reference when assembling. I would assemble (attach) the minimum at first - PSU, CPU and cooler, RAM, SSD boot drive (the one you will load Windows on), DVD drive, mouse and keyboard. Make sure the RAM is in the recommended slots (per the mobo manual) and seated properly, make sure the CPU cooler is seated properly, make sure you have made all necessary power, SATA and front panel connections, hook up the monitor to the IGP (install the discrete graphics card and drivers for said card later in the process after you are sure everything is up and running).

Power on and boot into BIOS and make whatever changes you need to make. Setting SATA as AHCI for instance (if needed), change boot order if needed, etc. Test the RAM with memtest if you are so inclined. Eventually, when you are satisfied with BIOS settings, put your Windows 8 disk in the DVD drive, save changes in BIOS and reboot. Install Windows 8.

Then update all of the drivers - chipset, LAN, etc. etc. either from the disk supplied with the motherboard (I wouldn't but it is easier) or go out and get them from the manufacturers website and install those. Shut down and install/attach your HDD. Not sure how Windows 8 handles "libraries" or what you will need to do exactly but somehow you will probably want to path out your equivalent "my pictures" "my videos" "my documents" and "my music" libraries to the mechanical HDD (storage) so those large sets of files are not on your SSD. I am sure there is already a tutorial out there somewhere on the intertubes for accomplishing this in Windows 8. In fact I would go looking for one and read up on this process before doing any of the above. It could be that Windows 8 wants both drives attached from the initial bootup or something.

After all updates and drivers are installed and you have a stable system, then install your graphics card with the most recent driver from the website.

 

[Bossy573]

You are going to use the Samsung SSD as an OS/Boot drive and the WD Black for data I am assuming? Not sure what level of help you are looking for or what your experience is concerning assembling a computer and getting it up and running but here is a basic plan of attack (what I would do anyway)...

Make every effort to ground yourself. You don't want your new components negatively effected by static.

Look through your motherboard manual and have a copy of it handy for reference when assembling. I would assemble (attach) the minimum at first - PSU, CPU and cooler, RAM, SSD boot drive (the one you will load Windows on), DVD drive, mouse and keyboard. Make sure the RAM is in the recommended slots (per the mobo manual) and seated properly, make sure the CPU cooler is seated properly, make sure you have made all necessary power, SATA and front panel connections, hook up the monitor to the IGP (install the discrete graphics card and drivers for said card later in the process after you are sure everything is up and running).

Power on and boot into BIOS and make whatever changes you need to make. Setting SATA as AHCI for instance (if needed), change boot order if needed, etc. Test the RAM with memtest if you are so inclined. Eventually, when you are satisfied with BIOS settings, put your Windows 8 disk in the DVD drive, save changes in BIOS and reboot. Install Windows 8.

Then update all of the drivers - chipset, LAN, etc. etc. either from the disk supplied with the motherboard (I wouldn't but it is easier) or go out and get them from the manufacturers website and install those. Shut down and install/attach your HDD. Not sure how Windows 8 handles "libraries" or what you will need to do exactly but somehow you will probably want to path out your equivalent "my pictures" "my videos" "my documents" and "my music" libraries to the mechanical HDD (storage) so those large sets of files are not on your SSD. I am sure there is already a tutorial out there somewhere on the intertubes for accomplishing this in Windows 8. In fact I would go looking for one and read up on this process before doing any of the above. It could be that Windows 8 wants both drives attached from the initial bootup or something.

After all updates and drivers are installed and you have a stable system, then install your graphics card with the most recent driver from the website.

Yes, you are correct. The SSD is the boot drive. First time I have ever set a PC up like this.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this. My PC knowledge is strictly pedestrian. I know some "whats" but almost nothing of "why."

Have already started looking into your suggestions above. Wish me luck because I am gonna need it.

 

[beto]

Yes, you are correct. The SSD is the boot drive. First time I have ever set a PC up like this.

I just set one up with an SSD as the boot drive for the first time about a month ago myself. I am running Windows 7 though and used this "guide" (though did not make all of the suggested tweaks) and everything went fine. My main question and concern was how to successfully put all the bulk data like videos and music, etc. onto the mechanical hard drive with the correct drive paths. That guide might be worth reading through just to get an idea but, like I said, you really will want to try and track down instructions for Windows 8 because it could be a significantly different process. I am just completely unfamiliar with Windows 8.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this. My PC knowledge is strictly pedestrian. I know some "whats" but almost nothing of "why."

No problem at all. I too know very little behind the why. But that is sort of the beauty of it... you really don't have to know a lot about the why to be successful. It only really blows when something goes wrong. But then that is the learning process and what forums (like [H]), frequented by more knowledgeable folks, are there for. (one of the reasons anyway)

Have already started looking into your suggestions above. Wish me luck because I am gonna need it.

Good luck! And if you run into trouble just throw up a post and I am sure someone will be along to help if they can.

 

[Bossy573]

Well folks, the thing is built and up and running. Many thank to those who were kind enough to offer advice - all of it was spot on and a huge help. The SSD-HDD deal was easy as pie. I just have to remember to install software to the proper location. Easily the most problem free build I have ever undertaken. A credit to the hardware and software for sure.

The Fractual case is really, really nice - extremely high quality and whisper quiet. My last 2 builds were SFF, so "mid-tower" is much bigger than I thought it would be. I should have gotten an LED fan or 2, but I can do that later.

The MSI motherbaord is perfect for the non-expert that I am. Extremely easy to figure out what goes where. The bios is great and the OC Genie had my 3570K at 4.2ghz at the push of a button. I'll push the system later when I have some time.

The CPU cooler and video card are freaking huge. Funny that the rest of the PC world is going smaller and the enthusiast segment is going polar opposite.

Windows 8 boots in about 5 seconds. Although I still like the OS, at times I was getting annoyed at having to remember the "new" way while trying to get things done. Maybe that will pass. But MHO is MS should make a decision about what they want this OS to be and go with it - or offer a stripped down version without Metro (or with Metro only).


PC technology has come a loooong way in 5 years. Scary to think how much farther along my next build will be.

 

[Dangman]

Good to see the build is working just fine,

 

[beto]

Well folks, the thing is built and up and running. The SSD-HDD deal was easy as pie.

Good to hear. Congratulations.

 

[Bossy573]

Good to hear. Congratulations.

Thanks. The only problem I've had so far is sometimes when I boot up I don't get an internet connection. I reboot and then it connects. I re-installed the adapter drivers but the situation persists. I looked at the Intel Gigabit connection manager but I'll be damned if I know what it all means. No quick fixes found online. This may sound stupid, but I wonder if the machine boots too fast for my router? (I have Fios)

The other thing is there is a ton of Intel stuff that I have running and I have no idea exactly what it does or how to set it up properly, i.e. Smart Connect, Rapid Storage, etc. More research.

Other than that the thing is just great. Fast as hell.

 

[beto]

Thanks. The only problem I've had so far is sometimes when I boot up I don't get an internet connection. I reboot and then it connects. I re-installed the adapter drivers but the situation persists. I looked at the Intel Gigabit connection manager but I'll be damned if I know what it all means. No quick fixes found online. This may sound stupid, but I wonder if the machine boots too fast for my router? (I have Fios)

That does seem odd. Not sure what that would be about but I don't think you have to reboot each time either. You ought to be able to just go into the Windows 8 equivalent of the "network and sharing center" and enable the connection from there to get it running and connected (not that you want that to be the permanent solution of course). Look around for network settings in the control panel and see what you can see. If it was me I would find the official Windows 8 forums and as the question there too.

 

[Bossy573]

That does seem odd. Not sure what that would be about but I don't think you have to reboot each time either.

Re-loaded the drivers again and the problem seems to be gone.

I cannot believe how much faster and quieter this machine is than my old rig.