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New build questions

I

int

n00b
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
19
Posted a new watercooling build in general hardware, but per the advice I got there, swinging over to this forum to ask a few water-cooling specific questions.

My water cooling parts:
Pump: Laing DDCT w/ PetraTech DDCT-01s Top
Radiator: Thermochill 120x3
Res: Don't have yet, might be getting a 5x25 one
CPU Block:NexXos XP3
GPU Block (x 2):EK FC670 GTX Full Copper

The cards I'm planning on getting are 2 x Galaxy GTX 670 GC.

As for the questions:
  1. Less of a water question, more of a general question I hope someone knows: is Galaxy a good choice of a vendor if I want to OC my 670s? I'm new to nVidia and completely naive to the differences between vendors
  2. I think my EK blocks come with TIM pads installed - should I be using these, or is it better to replace with another TIM, and if so, what's preferred?
  3. What's the scoop with nickel plated stuff? Mixing metals seems to be bad news, and it doesn't look like it decreases temperature. Just curious - I've been avoiding it where I can since I don't want the complication.
  4. Is my little, aging DDC (not sure what version, the PetrasTech receipt from a few years ago just says 'Laing DDCT' going to be able to handle this loop? I've got about 4.5-5 feet of tubing in there now because of the funky way I had to route things. I'm planning on putting my pump down at the bottom of my 5.25" bay tower, rather than underneath it with the radiator, which will make everything much shorter and easier to work with - maybe 3-4 feet then, I hope.
  5. I just read over the FAQ, which sort of answers this next bit: why all the hype with compression fittings? I stuck 7/16 tubing on 3/8 barbs and never had a drip. FAQ seems to confirm this is OK, so I plan on sticking with it.
  6. FAQ says reservoir -> pump -> radiator; I've been running reservoir -> radiator -> pump. Is this a huge issue beyond initially filling your loop where you might accidentally run your pump dry?
  7. Should I be running those GPUs in parallel or serial?
  8. I want to actually be able to drain my loop this time, easily. Never did that in the old one. Is it as simple as installing a T-line at the bottom of the case, on the way out of the radiator and up to the CPU? Then just slap one of those neat little valve guys or a quick disconnect or something on there and call it a day?

Sorry there are so many questions, had the whole day at work to think about this.
 
int said:
Posted a new watercooling build in general hardware, but per the advice I got there, swinging over to this forum to ask a few water-cooling specific questions.

My water cooling parts:
Pump: Laing DDCT w/ PetraTech DDCT-01s Top
Radiator: Thermochill 120x3
Res: Don't have yet, might be getting a 5x25 one
CPU Block:NexXos XP3
GPU Block (x 2):EK FC670 GTX Full Copper

The cards I'm planning on getting are 2 x Galaxy GTX 670 GC.

As for the questions:
  1. Less of a water question, more of a general question I hope someone knows: is Galaxy a good choice of a vendor if I want to OC my 670s? I'm new to nVidia and completely naive to the differences between vendors
  2. I think my EK blocks come with TIM pads installed - should I be using these, or is it better to replace with another TIM, and if so, what's preferred?
  3. What's the scoop with nickel plated stuff? Mixing metals seems to be bad news, and it doesn't look like it decreases temperature. Just curious - I've been avoiding it where I can since I don't want the complication.
  4. Is my little, aging DDC (not sure what version, the PetrasTech receipt from a few years ago just says 'Laing DDCT' going to be able to handle this loop? I've got about 4.5-5 feet of tubing in there now because of the funky way I had to route things. I'm planning on putting my pump down at the bottom of my 5.25" bay tower, rather than underneath it with the radiator, which will make everything much shorter and easier to work with - maybe 3-4 feet then, I hope.
  5. I just read over the FAQ, which sort of answers this next bit: why all the hype with compression fittings? I stuck 7/16 tubing on 3/8 barbs and never had a drip. FAQ seems to confirm this is OK, so I plan on sticking with it.
  6. FAQ says reservoir -> pump -> radiator; I've been running reservoir -> radiator -> pump. Is this a huge issue beyond initially filling your loop where you might accidentally run your pump dry?
  7. Should I be running those GPUs in parallel or serial?
  8. I want to actually be able to drain my loop this time, easily. Never did that in the old one. Is it as simple as installing a T-line at the bottom of the case, on the way out of the radiator and up to the CPU? Then just slap one of those neat little valve guys or a quick disconnect or something on there and call it a day?

Sorry there are so many questions, had the whole day at work to think about this.
Click to expand...

2. If your EK blocks are anything like mine, they come with thermal pads but they're not preinstalled, you have to cut them to size according to the included directions. The pads should be fine, if you want to use your own TIM then don't apply the stuff that comes with the block.
3. Nickel is an inert metal that will not interact with copper so you can use them together without worrying about galvanic corrosion.
5. As you probably already figured out, most people make a bigger deal over some of this stuff then neccessary. I've seen it quite a few times where people just use oversized fittings like you have said....compression fittings are mostly just for looks.
6. The FAQ probably only recommends that order for the reason you stated. Most of these pumps are not designed to be run without water in them or they'll be damaged. If you can insure that your pump will never be started dry then order them however you'd like. Some people will recommend that you run the radiator between the pump and the GPUs so as not to soak the pump in excess heated water.
7. Parallel will allow the loop to run at a lower pressure, i've heard cooling is the same either way.
8. To add a drain line you can add a single drain line at the lowest point of the loop and that will do the trick but it will "glug" out.....same as if you opened a can of soda and tipped it completely upside down, it wont flow out quickly and smoothly. To get a nice solid flow out, I would install a fill port at the top and then when you open the drain port, you can open your fill port to allow air to enter the lines.
 
1) Galaxy is fine, just make sure you get a card that you can get a block for. If I recall correctly, the WindForce 670s use a 680 PCB. Just check the PCB before you buy.

2) Use the Thermal pads that come with the block. usually, these get used on the RAM/etc. You can typically use regular TIM on the GPU core itself. Oh, and stay away from EK, particularly anything nickel.

3) Mixing metals that are close to each other on the galvanic scale is fine. Copper, brass, nickel, chrome, some stainless steels are all fine. Aluminum is NOT.

4) The DDC should be fine.

5) Compression fittings look cool. They are expensive as hell and will remove most of your fingerprints.

6) You always want your res just before your pump so you don't run it dry. That's the main reason. A pump that runs dry won't last very long at all.

7) For 2 GPUs, you can do either. Temps should be about the same either way.

8) Yeah, it's pretty much that easy. But be aware, even with a drain line, you won't be able to drain all of the water out of your loop without taking the whole thing apart or at least mounting the case in a gyroscope.
 
Thanks for the help, I'm that much closer to purchasing.

Going to post over in the video forums to confirm the PCB - found an older link that shows a custom PCB. There is also a HARDOCP article that says "The custom PCB is full length, not following the shortened PCB that NVIDIA had paired the GPU with." Along with a bunch of random Google stuff that says it eventually released with a full 680 PCB. I've got universal blocks all priced up and good to go, so whichever way it goes I'm all set...but I'll confirm first.

baldrik said:
2) Use the Thermal pads that come with the block. usually, these get used on the RAM/etc. You can typically use regular TIM on the GPU core itself. Oh, and stay away from EK, particularly anything nickel.
Click to expand...

This have anything to do with Petras current note on EK CPU blocks stating "This EK Product has been discontinued indefinitely due to numerous complaints from customers regarding faulty nickel plating For more information see these forum links."?

Or just personal experience? I've got zero brand loyalty as far as blocks go. I'm using an Alphacool CPU block because it's seems pretty solid, so I could always give their blocks a go if they're decent.
 
int said:
Thanks for the help, I'm that much closer to purchasing.

Going to post over in the video forums to confirm the PCB - found an older link that shows a custom PCB. There is also a HARDOCP article that says "The custom PCB is full length, not following the shortened PCB that NVIDIA had paired the GPU with." Along with a bunch of random Google stuff that says it eventually released with a full 680 PCB. I've got universal blocks all priced up and good to go, so whichever way it goes I'm all set...but I'll confirm first.



This have anything to do with Petras current note on EK CPU blocks stating "This EK Product has been discontinued indefinitely due to numerous complaints from customers regarding faulty nickel plating For more information see these forum links."?

Or just personal experience? I've got zero brand loyalty as far as blocks go. I'm using an Alphacool CPU block because it's seems pretty solid, so I could always give their blocks a go if they're decent.
Click to expand...

Ya, most people dislike EK because they have a faulty nickeling process but won't own up to it, they're blaming the customers for it and not honoring RMAs. This only applies to their Nickel plated blocks....if you get an all copper block then there's nothing to worry about from them.
 
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