New build problem

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DivineDark

n00b
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
27
Strange new build issue
Hello all. I really hope you guys can help me out, cause I'm stumped...

Long story short: I'm an experienced pc builder, but just now making the jump to the current generation of 1366 systems. The system is as follows:

CPU: i7 950
Motherboard: Rampage III Formula
Ram: Corsair Dominator CL8
Power Supply: XFX Black 850W
GPU: EVGA GTX580
Cooler: Thermaltake Frio setup Push/Pull

Problem: From a powered down state... If I hit the power button the machine comes to life, but the DRAM QLED lights solid red and the CPU QLED flashes red. Nothing comes up on the screen. If I hold the reset button (usually 2 seconds) till the CPU led stops blinking and release it the machine will boot fine.

Note: I did not plug the 4pin to the bottom right of the CPU socket in, as it says it's if you're running SLI. I'm running single card currently. I did plug it in to see if it made any difference, and it did not.

I just don't get it... I figured I set one of the vast number of features of this board up improperly.

P.S. - the first screen that shows after the "Hit DELETE" ROG screen is a marvell screen that says it's looking for bootable drives and can't find em. I can't get that to go away either.


Hope you all can help.

Cheers,
TH
 
I would flash bios, make sure all drivers and os is up to date. Then try again from there.

Also the extra 4 pin just leave it so you know there is plenty of clean power on the pci lanes.
 
No dice... It's just really strange. It works fine after I hit the reset button, but first power on is always a failure.
 
Had a similar problem on a build a long time ago. It was a bad power supply. It had to literally warm up before the pc would boot...
 
Pabuchok said:
Had a similar problem on a build a long time ago. It was a bad power supply. It had to literally warm up before the pc would boot...
Click to expand...

When you say it had to warm up, how long did that take? As soon as mine boots up, I just touch the reset button and all is well with the machine.
 
It's time to start over.
Take it apart and put it on the bench on the box.

reseat the CPU and use one RAM stick and a GPU.

reset the CMOS, remove the battery.

You know the rest.:D
 
magoo said:
It's time to start over.
Take it apart and put it on the bench on the box.

reseat the CPU and use one RAM stick and a GPU.

reset the CMOS, remove the battery.

You know the rest.:D
Click to expand...

:( I know this is the right approach, but I'm kind of stuck here. I have a new born and two days to troubleshoot before I leave for the Christmas holiday... I'm just worried about the 14 day return policies on some of my gear. I be returning home about the time my return policy ends on my ram and cpu. And judging from the time it took me to actually get it in my case. I'll have it laid out to test about the time I have to get the family on a plane. It just takes sooo long to manipulate that stupid cpu cooler.
 
Atragon said:
Pull all the ram except for 1 stick while still in the case then?
Click to expand...

You can try to use a shortcut...........but you'll never know the right answer unless you do it the right way.........

my guess is a bad RAM stick or the CPU needs reseated..........

First thing I'd do if I wasn't going to tear it down is take the battery out.

Did you trial this thing out of the case before you put it in?
If so it could also be a short. commomnly the Heat sink brackets contact a solder point on the back of the board, wreaking havoc.
 
magoo said:
You can try to use a shortcut...........but you'll never know the right answer unless you do it the right way.........

my guess is a bad RAM stick or the CPU needs reseated..........

First thing I'd do if I wasn't going to tear it down is take the battery out.

Did you trial this thing out of the case before you put it in?
If so it could also be a short. commomnly the Heat sink brackets contact a solder point on the back of the board, wreaking havoc.
Click to expand...

That's the weird thing. When the machine comes up after the reset button is pushed. It posts all 6GB ram at 1600 8/8/8/24 @ 1.65w. And memory, cpu, hdd, and vc pass performance tests in Windows 7. It's like the pc is perfectly fine after the reset button is pushed on a cold boot.

No, I did not power the board before it was in the case. Rookie mistake, but I've never had a problem before.
 
I got the same board, and same CPU. It's not the Bios, just making sure, you did plug in the extra cpu power on the board, its by the CPU. Note you will just see I believe 4 pin connector, but you can remove the cover to use a 6 pin connector. Try that to fix your issue, maybe on the first boot, it's just charging the system.
 
Just because the machine recognizes the RAM, doesn't mean it runs correctly when stressed. Run Memtest for an hour, you'll find out in a hurry.

I assume the BIOS is fully at default?

When you placed the front panel connectors did you use the ASUS quick connect thing?
Might want to check they are in the proper place.

Turn the PSU off completely in the back, take the battery out, unplug the psu, wait 10 minutes, then assemble it and boot up.

Google cold boot issues + evga P55, I know its a different board, but my son's board had an issue like you describe and as I recall there was something in the BIOS I had to change and the problem was solved.....this could be similar.:D
 
I will second the idea that it is probably the PSU. If one of the larger capacitors inside the PSU takes too long to charge and then deliver voltage to the circuit, then whatever devices are on that circuit do not receive full power fast enough to POST on cold boot. This would explain why cold boot+reset works, because the PSU is then working at it's full potential which means all devices have adequate power. You can try to reduce the initial startup power needed by removing components, or test with a known working PSU.
 
martinje said:
I got the same board, and same CPU. It's not the Bios, just making sure, you did plug in the extra cpu power on the board, its by the CPU. Note you will just see I believe 4 pin connector, but you can remove the cover to use a 6 pin connector. Try that to fix your issue, maybe on the first boot, it's just charging the system.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you're talking about, and I did use the 8 pin plug there. Removed the dust cover and plugged it in. The only plug that isn't plugged in is the 4 pin molex connector right above the PCIE 1x right under the CPU. The manual states that's for running multiple cards in SLI/Xfire.
 
No, I did not power the board before it was in the case. Rookie mistake, but I've never had a problem before.
Click to expand...

But look at the situation at hand.

I never put the board in the case until I'm satisfied it works with/without an OS and by adding components one at a time then rebooting each time.:D
 
magoo said:
But look at the situation at hand.

I never put the board in the case until I'm satisfied it works with/without an OS and by adding components one at a time then rebooting each time.:D
Click to expand...

No, you're absolutely right. It just wasn't something I thought about.

I took my XFX PSU back and picked up the Corsair XH850W. That was the PSU I initially wanted, but they were out of stock. They got their shipment in today, so I figured I'd just swap em put. No reason not to.
 
DivineDark said:
No, you're absolutely right. It just wasn't something I thought about.

I took my XFX PSU back and picked up the Corsair XH850W. That was the PSU I initially wanted, but they were out of stock. They got their shipment in today, so I figured I'd just swap em put. No reason not to.
Click to expand...

Great PSU.
I hope it solves your problem.:D
 
Problem solved. I spent the evening working through the board as was previously suggested. The problem turned out to be the firewire port on the motherboard. If I plug the firewire port on the front of my case into it, it causes the failed cold boot and qled lights.

While the new power supply didn't correct that issue, it did fix the annoying coil whine in my case. So... I call that a victory. :D
 
Glad to hear it all worked out for the best. When you say the port on the motherboard, do you mean the header that connects the motherboard to the front I/O panel? I've never personally had an issue with those front panel cables before, but I have seen stranger things, so it's possible.
 
Yes. The header for the firewire on the Rampage III formula is red. As soon as I plug the front panel firewire cable of the HAF X into the header... No more booting.
 
Yikes............odd problem.
Makes you wonder if the board is the problem or a bad connector or cable in the case?

As long as the board now works perfectly, I'd just leave it alone and call it a done deal.
Sending a board back to ASUS is a total crap-shoot, unless you could RMA the board back to the seller for a brand new-in-the-box-never-been-touched board.

Good work figuring that out, it certainly isn't at the top of my list of things that can go wrong.:D
 
I've read that the case ports can cause problems from time to time. Just shoddy quality in the wiring. One short is all it takes. I'm not sure about the header on the board, as I don't really have another firewire lead to plug into it, but I have little to no use for the firewire port on the front of the case anyways. I have no firewire devices and there is always the firewire port on the back of the mobo. The board seems to be running perfectly fine now. We'll see how it works over the long run. I have three weeks left on my warranty. Hopefully if it's going to take a dump, it does it in the next three weeks.
 
Okay, after a little digging it turns out that this is a common issue with the HAFX case. They pressed the connector wires between the front panel PCB and the case roof, causing the soldered pins to pierce the wire sheath and causing a short. It has happened on the USB ports as well, but most commonly it's the Firewire port. I was actually really lucky. Most of the cases I've read of this happening lead to their board going up in a puff of smoke.
 
glad it didnt end in disaster. i didnt think anyone still used any of the firewire ports still.:D
 
Me either. I'm going to take the front panel apart tonight and see if I can identify the short. If I can, I'm going to break the hot glue gun out and isolate the broken insulation, then blob the soldered pins on the back on the pcb. That should keep everything nice and insulated. Hopefully, this will fix the issue. I don't mind leaving the firewire header unplugged, but I would like to use the USB ports without fear of setting my pc off like a mexican firework.
 
I hear you. About the only thing I ever use on the front panel of the case are the USB ports anyway.

My CoolerMaster Stacker EVO has an odd design as well, the cables over time come unplugged from the front panel and all of a sudden you have only back I/O USB input.

It's almost impossible to gain access to the connectors without standing the case upside down and taking it all apart.

I glued them in the last time I had to fix it, as well.
 
magoo said:
I hear you. About the only thing I ever use on the front panel of the case are the USB ports anyway.

My CoolerMaster Stacker EVO has an odd design as well, the cables over time come unplugged from the front panel and all of a sudden you have only back I/O USB input.

It's almost impossible to gain access to the connectors without standing the case upside down and taking it all apart.

I glued them in the last time I had to fix it, as well.
Click to expand...

Ugh... That sounds like fun. Some of these case designers need to put a little more forethought into these designs. Who sandwiches powered wires between a pin cushion and a solid wall? And likewise, who thought it would be quality design to put heavy cables plugged into the roof of a case without any clips to secure them from mere gravity? Just brilliance all around.
 
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