new build advce

[spacediver]

Ok, looking pretty good so far.

 

[rastaban]

looks good, when you install the graphics card, watch out for the CPU power cable since it's already pretty taut. Some think it's a bad idea, but I've always done it like this:

 

[Dangman]

Is there not an opening in the top of the motherboard tray to route that 8Pin EPS12V cable through?

I'm definitely in the camp that hates the idea of the 8Pin EPS12V running across the motherboard likes that. Looks uglier and makes it slightly harder to diagnose PSU issues.

Also, can you route that SATA power cable behind the motherboard tray and out the top cable management hole (the same hole that the 24Pin cable is coming through)? I think it's going to look nicer that way.

 

[rastaban]

The 8 pin CPU power is often too short if routed from above. All the LL cases I've used also don't have a cutout large enough (or none at all) above the mobo for the 8-pin to fit through.
The cables have a decent polyester wrap over them so I don't see a problem with it running over the board.

 

[Dangman]

The 8 pin CPU power is often too short if routed from above. All the LL cases I've used also don't have a cutout large enough (or none at all) above the mobo for the 8-pin to fit through.
The cables have a decent polyester wrap over them so I don't see a problem with it running over the board.

I have no real technical objections to doing that besides the 8Pin accidentally hitting the video card fan if not tied down enough and more time consuming to replace the PSU. Its mostly an aesthetics disagreement.

But damn, not happy to hear that about LL cases. Though in regards to the shortness problem, in this case, it can be solved by cutting that zip-tie that's holding all the cables coming from the PSU.

@ spacediver
Since we have the same mobo and HSF, here's my recent Phantom build:

 

[spacediver]

looks good, when you install the graphics card, watch out for the CPU power cable since it's already pretty taut.

yep, I'll cross that bridge tomorrow. I might try your approach if I feel confident enough.

Also, can you route that SATA power cable behind the motherboard tray and out the top cable management hole (the same hole that the 24Pin cable is coming through)? I think it's going to look nicer that way.

Suppose I could - would look less awkward, though I might have to really kink the input to the ODD - the way I have it now it's naturally aligned. Will look more into it tomorrow.

Just finished cleaning up, and will try to finish it off tomorrow, along with OS install and software installation.

Will post a couple more photos tomorrow, including my rather pathetic IO shield install

I can't thank you people enough - it's rare to get such patient and thorough help, and it has not gone unnoticed. If either of you pass by Toronto, dinner's on me.

 

[spacediver]

Ok got a few more questions, but first, take a gander at the IO shield.

Also, check out the way I've routed my cables. In this view, you can see I've bunched up the cables so that they'll get compressed when I put the side panel on. I've tested it, and the panel barely fits on, with a bit of a bulge. I noticed that in the previous examples posted in this thread, for example, rastaban's, the cables are routed quite differently, so that they're not interfering with the side panel. I think I'm gonna reroute them to avoid this issue.

Ok, here are some questions:

I connected the chassis front panel hdaudio connector to the motherboard, and I'm trying to wrap my head around what this means. Will there be a quality difference compared to just attaching my speakers to the sound port (on IO shield). Does the hdaudio module simply reroute the same signal, or does it actually have its own RamDAC/codec thing going on?

Somewhat related question. Given that I have a fiio E17 headphone amplifier/DAC, would there ever be a time, in the context of headphone usage, when I should use the soundcard/HD audio module instead?

My case came with a USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 converter. I was under the impression that USB was backwards compatible. Why would I need a converter?

I'm starting to question whether I should mount my HDD externally. It's a western digital WD6400AAKS. Would I just be able to mount this internally on the Asus Z87-A without issue?

Are all the yellow Sata6G ports treated identically? Does it matter whether I put my SDD into port 1 or 2? (The ODD goes into a SATA port also).

The case came with four small "stoppers". Tiny rubber screw-like things that fit on the top of the case. I put them in, but not sure what their purpose is. Is it to stop dust/fluids from getting inside?

 

[Dangman]

That I/O shield is kinda fucked up. See those tabs cover the DVI port and extending past the ethernet port? You can actually just fold those into the inside of the I/O plate so that they don't stick out like that.

Yeah, that's why I don't cable manage that way: It creates that very bulge you speak of. Hence why I just let everything just spill out.

As for your questions:
1) The HD audio just resoute the same signals.

2) N/A

3) That converter is what it allows the manufacturers to say that USB is backwards compatible. With that said, the USB ports themselves are also backwards compatible.

4) Yes

5) Yes. No.

6) No idea what you're talking about.

 

[spacediver]

thanks Dangman, just got home and hoping to finish installing windows and software etc by tonight so that I can actually get some real work done tomorrow!

 

[rastaban]

That I/O shield problem happened with me a few times too. After installing an entire system I would realize one port was blocked. It's the reason why your shield bulges, making mobo installation difficult.

There is not much space behind the mobo tray on the 7HX, most of the space is behind the drive cage, which is why I bunched all my cables there. It takes a while to figure out how to route them without the right panel bulging. I didn't have a graphics card or ODD in my build, so it will be a bit tougher for you.

The only time you may want to use your onboard audio is when you hook up speakers. You can leave the E17 connected via USB with your headphones plugged into it, and use Control Panel > Sound settings to toggle which device you want to output from. The HD audio front panel cable is kind of useless unless you want to use your front headphone/mic jacks with onboard audio (will show up in Control Panel as well).

Mount the WD drive in the drive cage since it's currently empty. Preferably in one of the slots on the bottom so that air can move through the cage toward the GPU. Face the drive ports toward the right side of the case like I did so it is easier to connect cables (facing left side requires right angle SATA cables).

The USB 3.0 converter is only needed if your motherboard is an older model without a 20-pin USB 3.0 header, in which case the converter would turn the front panel ports into 2.0. It is irrelevant to you.

Typically I put the primary boot drive in SATA port 0 (I think Asus boards label it SATA port 1) so that if anything goes wrong in the BIOS and the first default drive is picked, it will still be the correct one.

The rubber stoppers are to cover screw holes. The large plastic cap is for a waterloop fill port.

They are reserved for the optional radiator expansion shroud:
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/7h-1/

Which reminds me to tell you that LL has a ton of case accessories if you look around. Most are insanely overpriced, but the aesthetics come close to justifying them once in a while . The first cosmetic upgrade you should get is the ODD bezel, and later a fan controller with drive mounts
Here's my main machine recently upgraded:

 

[spacediver]

There is not much space behind the mobo tray on the 7HX, most of the space is behind the drive cage, which is why I bunched all my cables there. It takes a while to figure out how to route them without the right panel bulging. I didn't have a graphics card or ODD in my build, so it will be a bit tougher for you.

Managed to do a decent job I think.

(I shifted the 8 pin CPU power cable running under GPU so it isn't interfering with CPU cooler).

I can't even tell whether that pic is clear or not, as I haven't yet installed GPU drivers, so apologies if it's terrible

Mount the WD drive in the drive cage since it's currently empty. Preferably in one of the slots on the bottom so that air can move through the cage toward the GPU. Face the drive ports toward the right side of the case like I did so it is easier to connect cables (facing left side requires right angle SATA cables).

This drove me nuts. I tried doing so, but there were a few points of confusion:

The manual seemed to suggest using the thumbscrews with some rubber rings. I noticed that some of the thumbscrews had tiny rubber rings already attached, but I assumed it meant the thicker rubber rings that come in the baggie (there are tonnes of them). Thing is, I couldn't get those screws to screw into the side of the hard drive properly. They weren't secure. And when I tried fitting the drive inside the 3.5 inch cage, the ends of the screws prevented it from fitting.

There were also a couple thumbscrews attached to points within the cage - one that when loosened allowed a sliding gate to move up and down, and another thumbscrew in the bottom area, though not sure what it did. I wasn't sure where I was supposed to get the four thumbscrews for the HDD. I ended up borrowing some from the strips of metal near the card ports (e.g. the ones used to secure a video card).

I ended up giving up in frustration and using the external mount, though I do want to get it mounted internally.

Other than that, I'm really beginning to appreciate the functional beauty of the case, and the way that things fit together well.

Thanks for the rest of the answers - they all make sense.

Currently getting all the drivers installed - oh the headaches I could share, but will spare you

Win 7 installed in a few minutes on the SDD!! (installed it off a usb flash drive)

and the UEFI bios is pretty damn awesome - things have changed so much it seems!

 

[rastaban]

It sounds like you're trying to install the hard drive the wrong way. Check out the short clip at 7:20 here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0HP3mCstEA
(face the hard drive in the opposite direction as the one used in the video)

Also beware that the 4 rubber grommets that go on the SSD are different from the rubber grommets that go on the hard drive screws. The SSD ones are fatter on one edge.
SSD (one on far right):

HDD:

You're correct that these hard drive screws are not very secure, but it's a moot point because they only serve as glides to slide the drive into the rack. The sliding gate locks the drives in place if you are moving your system around. You can see from my build photo that I have the gate up, and on the right side of the cage, the sliding screw is exposed.

The thumbscrew in the bottom area I believe is for disassembly of the drivecage from the case altogether.

Glad you're starting to appreciate the case
$85 CAD was a real steal for it.

 

[silk186]

Buy a new enclosure for the external drive or open it up and put it in the computer or buy a USB3.0 model to replace it.

 

[spacediver]

ok that makes some more sense.

I did use the correct rings for the SSD and the 3.5 inch HDD. Will watch the video and see if I can't figure it out

thanks for the great photo btw.

 

[spacediver]

well I gotta say, this machine runs like an absolute dream. Everything loads ridiculously fast, there is no annoying whirring of the hard drive, rebooting takes seconds, far cry 3 plays like an entirely different game, quakelive feels even more solid than I thought possible. Matlab and other application software runs beautifully, and I'm enjoying learning windows 7.

happy camper over here, thanks again for all the help!

 

[rastaban]

Have fun!