New AMD Sys. 2k or less.. your thoughts.

Well here is the gist.


Update Antec SONATA II Piano Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 450Watt SmartPower 2.0 ATX 12V V2.0 for AMD & Intel systems Power Supply - Retail
Model #: SONATA II
$99.00 $99.00

ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
Model #: A8N-SLI Deluxe
$164.00 $164.00

XFX PVT40AUDF3 Geforce 6800GT 256MB GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X Video Card - Retail
Model #: PVT40AUDF3
$284.00 $284.00

AMD Athlon 64 3500+ Venice 1GHz FSB Socket 939 Processor Model ADA3500BPBOX - Retail
Model #: ADA3500BPBOX
$265.19 $265.19

mushkin EM3200 Dual Pack 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model 991368 - Retail
Model #: 991368
$99.95 $99.95

Western Digital Raptor WD740GD 74GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM
Model #: WD740GD
$186.00 $186.00

AOpen KB-858 Black PS/2 Wired Standard Keyboard - Retail
Model #: KB-858
$8.00

Logitech MX1000 931175-0403 Blue/Black 8 Buttons Tilt Wheel USB + PS/2 Fast RF Laser Mouse - Retail
Model #: 931175-0403

$64.98 $64.98

PLEXTOR Black SATA DVD Burner Model PX-712SA/SW-BL - Retail
Model #: PX-712SA/SW-BL
$86.99
Subtotal: $1,258.11
 
XFX PVT40AUDF3 Geforce 6800GT 256MB GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X Video Card - Retail
Model #: PVT40AUDF3
$284.00 $284.00
Click to expand...

Was this supposed to be a PCI-e card instead of an AGP card?
 
PSU is weak get a 500w or so or like a truepower 480
 
digilink said:
Was this supposed to be a PCI-e card instead of an AGP card?
Click to expand...


like he said make sure you get pci express ;) dont wanna be disappointed to find out your agp doesnt fit in your mobo :p
 
perhaps wait for the upcoming 3800X'2. you will be glad you did. they are coming out VERY soon!
 
Palliser said:
Well here is the gist.
AOpen KB-858 Black PS/2 Wired Standard Keyboard - Retail
Model #: KB-858
$8.00

Logitech MX1000 931175-0403 Blue/Black 8 Buttons Tilt Wheel USB + PS/2 Fast RF Laser Mouse - Retail
Model #: 931175-0403

$64.98 $64.98
Click to expand...

if youre going to spend $65 on a mouse, might as well splurge and get a decent keyboard :D

you might also want to consider a 200-300-400 gig drive for storage
 
forget about the plextor drive ...

get an nec, or aopen or whatever brand for half the price,

the plextor has compatibilty issues !!!!


if your not getting an SLI configuration (2 cards) save your money and get a cheaper mobo, but upgrade your video card .....

as someone else mentioned, you need an additional drive for storage ... the raptor is not enough .....

64$ is too much for a mouse ...

get the mx 518( i forgot the number, the gamers mouse) .......half the price
 
If you're strong enough to pick up a carebear, you're strong enough to move an MX1000. I have both the MX518 and the 1000 (518 at work), and when I'm playing at home, I prefer the cordless version.

As for case, The Sonata is ok, but I prefer something a little larger if you decide to add drives/storage down the line. Centurion or Stacker or Praetorian.

As for primary drive, don't get the raptor. Get a Maxtor with the 16 meg cache. For the 186 you're spending on that 74 gb drive, you can have a 250 gb drive that's almost as fast. Maybe even 2 250GB if you find them on sale.

I agree with those suggesting a real keyboard btw. A logitech multimedia or the Saitek gamer keyboard.

If you're not using SLi, don't go overboard with your mobo. Get a great GPU and CPU, and save some for a nice Dell 2005fpw. If you order soon, you can still get it for 430ish.
 
i also think you should invest in an athlon 64 3800x2 ..that came out yesterday ...

its around 100$ more ....but six months from now, you will be thankful when more multi-threaded applications and apllication patches are released !!!! possibly even some games .....
 
aslo, for the monitor .. you can get the acer al2032w from newegg for around 520$...

20inch widescreen ... i have it and love it!!! the same panel as the dell 2005fpw
 
Lol.. yeah pci-e would help... will change the hd and look into the new video cards.. thanks for the input everyone!
 
What are your thoughts on this?

CASE: Antec Super LanBoy or Thermaltake Tsunami. Bot are aluminum and have awesome airflow and nominal fan noise (120mm fans).

MOTHERBOARD: If you want SLI and save a few bucks, this EPoX is getting awesome reviews and has great oc'ing potential.

VIDEO CARD: 7800GTX all the way!

CPU: AMD 3200+ (oc it; should easily hit 3800+ speed) or 3800+ X2 (wait until preorder price gouging ends).

MEMORY: 2x1GB. This is actually rebranded PQI memory (notice the timings).

HDD: Samsung SpinPoint SATA300 200GB (typo by Newegg - has 3 year warranty)

KEYBOARD/MOUSE: Logitech MX3100 Combo (includes MX1000 mouse)

DVD/R: NEC 3540A (pretty much has the best disc compatibility and rock solid).

PSU: SeaSonic S12 600W (specs are here).
 
Get 2 HDDs Hitachi:s SATA-2s Then RAID 0 them they even beat raptors in RAID0 and they are availeble in 160Gb and 250Gb flavours. Then get the 3800+ but a better OC-MoBo the DFI or the EPoX comes to mind. Also as long as U are concidering SLI get a real PSU. I have the OCZ600 and my anecdoteal evidence is that its Very Good.
 
One thing about the mouse, if you game much at all, the MX1000 isn't a very good option. It's a laser mouse (as you probably knew), it shuts off as soon as you pick it up and there is a slight delay when you put it down for it to turn back on. That = nightmare for FPSs or people with low sensitivities in general.

Go with the MX518 or MX510 like latief75 said.
 
1) I don't know about the Tsunami, but the lanboy is only good if you plan on dragging your 2k comp around alot. It's lightweight, and to ME (my opinion) feels flimsy. I wouldn't put an expensive system in a soft taco shell.

2) Why is everyone so raid happy? Does a t-shirt come with "I can raid!!" membership? Ask him what it's for first. If he's gaming, he doesn't need a Raid setup at all. I can't think of a single game that requires Raid0.

3) My MX1000 doesn't suffer any lifting lag, because I tend to keep it on the pad. Also, the laser is very responsive, so that if you do have bad mousing habits and keep lifting it, it resumes the moment you return it to the pad.
 
tys90 said:
One thing about the mouse, if you game much at all, the MX1000 isn't a very good option. It's a laser mouse (as you probably knew), it shuts off as soon as you pick it up and there is a slight delay when you put it down for it to turn back on. That = nightmare for FPSs or people with low sensitivities in general.

Go with the MX518 or MX510 like latief75 said.
Click to expand...
It doesn't shut off instantaneously! It has to be lifted off of a surface for at least 10 seconds before it goes into standby mode. Anyone that uses a Logitech wireless MX series mouse will know this (like me). If you pick it up for 0.5-2 seconds to reposition it, there will be no problems whatsoever....

If the OP wants the MX1000, I say it's a damn good choice.
 
Apallohadas said:
1) I don't know about the Tsunami, but the lanboy is only good if you plan on dragging your 2k comp around alot. It's lightweight, and to ME (my opinion) feels flimsy. I wouldn't put an expensive system in a soft taco shell.

2) Why is everyone so raid happy? Does a t-shirt come with "I can raid!!" membership? Ask him what it's for first. If he's gaming, he doesn't need a Raid setup at all. I can't think of a single game that requires Raid0.

3) My MX1000 doesn't suffer any lifting lag, because I tend to keep it on the pad. Also, the laser is very responsive, so that if you do have bad mousing habits and keep lifting it, it resumes the moment you return it to the pad.
Click to expand...
1. The Lanboy's front door is generally very flimsy. And the case as a whole, it's probably not the best choice for lugging around to LAN parties more than once a month. The Thermaltake aluminum cases are contructed of 1.0mm aluminum, and are quite strudy. I have a Tsunami and a Shark. Both rock solid, plenty of room, and excellent cooling. They are the easiest cases that I have had to work with, to boot.

2. I agree. RAID is a joke for the everyday user. If someone needs a very large partition or the security of data redundancy (redundancy is what I would use RAID for anyway, if I did), then it becomes feasible.

3. True dat. See my previous post. ;)
 
So the processor I picked out... is that a decent one? Or should i look at another type of AMD processor? ~Pal
 
Elios said:
PSU is weak get a 500w or so or like a truepower 480
Click to expand...

I wholeheartedly disagree. Check out my desktop in my sig, purrs like a kitten with a mere 300W. Look up power consumption tests on places like SilentPCReview.Com and you'll find that almost everyone way overestimates the amount of wattage they need. If I were you, I'd instead bump the power down in favor of a more quiet PSU at the same pricepoint. Check out the Seasonic S12-430, you'll be delighted with it.

As for the rest of your system, lookin' good. I prefer Corsair to Mushkin, but I suppose that's personal preference. Also, my 9800XT is a fine performer and you can pick them up dirt cheap these days. If you're a hardcore gamer though, I'd stick with what you have. I wouldn't let anyone talk you into spending more money on your GFX card than you are going to already-- even the 9800XT will handle anything on the market today just fine. More expensive cards are all about better framerates, but you won't notice any difference above ~40fps anyway.

Finally, if you can at all wait for the X2 3800+, that is going to be your best bet by far, and would be well worth the extra price premium (especially if it came out of your GFX card budget). I run a 3500+ myself, and love it, but dual core looks so appealing for its multitasking benefits that I'll probably upgrade to a 4400+ soon.
 
Palliser said:
So the processor I picked out... is that a decent one? Or should i look at another type of AMD processor? ~Pal
Click to expand...
If you're never going to overclock, then yeah it's decent.

If you do want to overclock (and there's no harm in doing so with the Venice core cpu), then a 3000+ or 3200+ would be better for the cheaper price.

If you can afford more on the processor, don't forget about the 3800+ X2 dual core. It's going to be roughly double the price of a 3200+, but then again it's roughly twin 3200+ cores on one die...
 
the X2 3800+ was released yesterday and IMHO, its a better deal than the 3500+.

3500+:
single core @ 2.2 ghz = better single threaded/pure gaming performance
overclocks better
cheaper ($250)
available now

X2 3800+:
dual core @ 2.0 ghz = better multi tasking/multi threaded performance
review sites have been getting a 2.4-2.6 o/c on them
more expensive ($350)
not available in retail yet
 
John G. said:
Also, my 9800XT is a fine performer and you can pick them up dirt cheap these days. If you're a hardcore gamer though, I'd stick with what you have. I wouldn't let anyone talk you into spending more money on your GFX card than you are going to already-- even the 9800XT will handle anything on the market today just fine. More expensive cards are all about better framerates, but you won't notice any difference above ~40fps anyway.

Finally, if you can at all wait for the X2 3800+, that is going to be your best bet by far, and would be well worth the extra price premium (especially if it came out of your GFX card budget). I run a 3500+ myself, and love it, but dual core looks so appealing for its multitasking benefits that I'll probably upgrade to a 4400+ soon.
Click to expand...
The 9800XT might be okay for you, which is fine. But I have a couple of questions:

Do you run demaning games like WoW, HL2, and D3 at 1280x1024 or higher with full AA/AF while getting at least 40fps (not average fps)? How many people out there with older graphics card experience a little choppiness from 20 times each hour when high particle count cripples their video's card performance in a game and it gets frustrating?

How about with games that use HDR FP16/SM3.0? Not possible at all, is it? For those using older cards, you might be upgrading to a $300-$500 card in the near future as more games come out that will require those features (any they are on the way)....

If you had to upgrade your machine with taking the future into consideration, would you cheap out on the video card and go with an older generation (and thus placing yourself in a position for needing to upgrade again sooner than you want)? OR Would you rather spend a little more now on a current generation card, knowing that in some instances it will perform twice as fast as the older gen card, thus negating the necessity to upgrade sooner than later?

John G, Sorry to use your statement as an example and if it seems harsh, but facts are facts and I'm trying to help the OP make a wise purchasing decision with the future in mind.

And I totally agree with you about the 3800+ being the better deal right now. All the benefits of dual cpus (or hyperthreading for those intel fans) and none of the drawbacks of a 'lowly single core'. LOL
 
DejaWiz said:
It doesn't shut off instantaneously! It has to be lifted off of a surface for at least 10 seconds before it goes into standby mode. Anyone that uses a Logitech wireless MX series mouse will know this (like me). If you pick it up for 0.5-2 seconds to reposition it, there will be no problems whatsoever....

If the OP wants the MX1000, I say it's a damn good choice.
Click to expand...

^ If that's so, then disregard what I said, MX1000 would work just fine.

I do remember reading a review that mentioned a problem with a slight delay after setting down the mouse. Maybe I'm thinking about another laser mouse? (I know there's a MX1000 ripoff, maybe that's what I'm thinking of)
 
Well I went a little lower on everything to save some cash. Going to order this tonight... any thoughts on last minute changes? I don't have any more cash than this. So any money savings would be fine too! Oh... this is for my little bro, he is into the crazy cases... so go easy on me. :)

Update NEC Black IDE DVD Burner Model ND-3540A - OEM
Model #: ND-3540A Black
$45.99 $45.99

ATX Computer Cases
Update XION Ultimate Engineering XON-001 Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 450 Watt Power Supply (P4 & AMD Ready) Power Supply - Retail
Model #: XON-001
Move To Wish List $65.99 $65.99

Internal Hard Drives
Update Maxtor DiamondMax 10 6L250S0 250GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM
Model #: 6L250S0
$110.00 $110.00

Monitors - LCD
Update ViewSonic VX715 Black-Silver 17" 25ms LCD Monitor - Retail
Model #: VX715
**This item is warranted through the product manufacturer only.
**Dead Pixels Policy: Replacement or Refund for 8 or more dead pixels only.
$275.99 $275.99

AMD-compatible Motherboards
ABIT AX8 Socket 939 VIA K8T890 ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
Model #: AX8
$14.99 2 Year Service Net Replacement Plan -- $19.99
Remove Save Move To Wish List $98.50 $98.50

Routers
Qty. Product Description Unit Price Savings Total Price
Update D-Link DI-604 10/100M Router - Retail
Model #: DI-604
**This item is warranted through the product manufacturer only.
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
$36.00 $36.00

Video Cards & Related Devices

Update Leadtek PX6800GT TDH Geforce 6800GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card - Retail
Model #: PX6800-GTTDH
$319.00 $319.00

Keyboards
Update Logitech 967502-0403 Black PS/2 Wired Standard Value Keyboard - OEM
Model #: 967502-0403
Remove Save Move To Wish List $7.00 $7.00

Mouse
Qty. Product Description Unit Price Savings Total Price

Update Logitech MX1000 931175-0403 Blue/Black 8 Buttons Tilt Wheel USB + PS/2 Fast RF Laser Mouse - Retail
Model #: 931175-0403
$64.98 $64.98

Network - Cables
Qty. Product Description Unit Price Savings Total Price

GENERIC 10X5-82450 (Blue) 50 FT Cat 5E Blue Blue Network Cable - OEM
Model #: 10X5-82450 (Blue)
$5.49 $5.49

Memory - System
mushkin EM3200 Dual Pack 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model 991368 - Retail
Model #: 991368
Select An Optional Extended Warranty Plan 1 Year Service Net Replacement Plan -- $99.95 $99.95

Processors
Qty. Product Description Unit Price Savings Total Price
Update AMD Athlon 64 3000+ Venice 1GHz FSB Socket 939 Processor Model ADA3000BPBOX - Retail
Model #: ADA3000BPBOX
$146.00 $146.00

Subtotal: $1,274.89



Total: $1,335.16
 
Palliser said:
Well I went a little lower on everything to save some cash. Going to order this tonight... any thoughts on last minute changes? I don't have any more cash than this. So any money savings would be fine too! Oh... this is for my little bro, he is into the crazy cases... so go easy on me. :)

Monitors - LCD
Update ViewSonic VX715 Black-Silver 17" 25ms LCD Monitor - Retail
Model #: VX715
**This item is warranted through the product manufacturer only.
**Dead Pixels Policy: Replacement or Refund for 8 or more dead pixels only.
$275.99 $275.99
Click to expand...

If you plan on playing games, get a different monitor. 25ms=teh suck

On Newegg, my girlfriend bought a Viewsonic 19 inch LCD monitor for $242 before shipping. It had a max res of 1280x1024 and a response time of 8ms.

I've played BF2 and some other games on it and its a damn good monitor.
 
DO NOT get an LCD monitor with a 25ms response time for gaming! One of the following would be better:

AOpen 19" 12ms $299 with $40mir

Samsung 19" 8ms $329 with $30mir

The Viewsonic mentioned in the above post is now $319 at the 'egg.
 
DejaWiz said:
DO NOT get an LCD monitor with a 25ms response time for gaming! One of the following would be better:

AOpen 19" 12ms $299 with $40mir

Samsung 19" 8ms $329 with $30mir

The Viewsonic mentioned in the above post is now $319 at the 'egg.
Click to expand...

I did get that one on sale BTW. Still you'll be regretting the decisoin to go with a 25ms LCD real fast.
 
Palliser said:
So which one the aopen or the samsung?

The Aopen has dvi
Click to expand...

The one with DVI. Analog only LCD's are an abomination and should be used by no one. I've tried mine both ways, and I can tell a HUGE difference between the VGA connection and the DVI connection.

I've got some analog LCD monitors at work, and they look like ass.
 
dude, if you want to save money on a mobo, just buy a refurbed DFI, do not buy VIA. They are $86 shipped at newegg, and the DFI nf4ut is the best enthusiast/overclocking board on the market. So many features, so many tweaks. A lot of people forget about the features and just focus on the tweaks. This board can mod to full SLI as well.

The great thing about newegg and refurbs is that, if it arrives DOA (most refurbs are open box, and not actually refurbed IMO) newegg gives you 100% of your money back (for the board). OR if it arrives DOA/dies at a later time, you can still RMA the board to DFI (unlike some, @dfistreet, rmas are easy).

My DFI (and all my refurbed items) overclocks as well, if not better, than the average new board. So no need to fear the common myths of refurbs:

A. All refurbs are crap overclockers some expert OC'er sent back.
B. All refurbs are crap overclockers because they have been "fixed", or are "used", and thus "damaged" in some way shape or form that hurts OC'ing.
C. All refurbs have a higher chance of dying/will die sooner.
D. All refurbs are likely to be DOA.
E. Newegg charges a restock fee on refurbs.
F. All refurbs (at newegg) are actually repaired items.

And the #1 myth of all?

G. Buying refurbs is risky

If you accept A-F to be true, then G must be true.

Just my little refurb rant! (Oh and your service plan on the mobo is a waste of money! Why pay $20 for service that already comes with a $86 refurb?)


Also, the 6800GT is at a horrible pricepoint given a 7800GTX is only ~$150 more.

Either buy a x800xl, or buy a 7800GTX, anything in between is a waste of money.

The 3000+ was too high of a drop. Go with the 3200+, and be sure to pick up a decent cooler, my money goes to the XP-90 (or 120 if it fits) with a panaflo fan. Should be looking at 2.4-2.7ghz.

Also, on the ram, I'd say go with some twinmos SP, but it doesn't appear to be around anymore.
 
Ok... I changed the video card too. The only thing I dont like about that refurb is that it doesn't seem to come with sata cables? I am getting oem drives, and I don't think they come with them either. Any thoughts?
 
It says it is only am OEM Barebone motherboard and does not include accessories.

I wonder if that includes a lack of the Audio Module and manuals/driver cds?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top