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New 8 Port Router

AP514

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
487
I posted this in networking but thought i might have better luck here.....

Hi all

My 8 port router/switch just died on me (old linksys LINKSYS BEFSR81,10/100mb) it was over 12 years old

Im looking for another Router(maybe a 100/1000) with at least 8 port switching on it. Or an equal setup...
Comcast only gives me 50 MB down and around 5 MB up avg.(Speed test) Do I even need Gigabit ??

My home is hard wired Cat 6..so please no Wifi sugesstions.

Hook-ups so far:
I have 3 rooms with computers, 1 PS4 , 1 entertainment(Tv/Blueray), 1 printer, 1 Wifi(for wifes iPad)

So any suggestions would be great...Links to products you suggest would be Awesome.
 
Last edited:
They don't make a lot or routers with 8 port switches. I would get a standard 4 port router and a 8 port switch.

Smallnetbuilder.com
 
Hey AP514 I have a Cisco 24 Port Gigabit Switch I was trying to sell, here,

But I would think that your best bet would be to get a gigabit switch and router with gigabit as well and chain them together. Seeing as how you were on a 10/100 before, the 1000 will give you a ton more bandwidth and you get some nifty feature-set possibilities with a newer switch, like jumbo frames, qos protocols, and port teaming to name a few.

If you wanted something more integrated you might look at a custom built solution like an untangle or pfsense box. Where basically you can build a pc into a router / switch with some pretty complex routing capabilities on what amounts to a custom linux os. So if you have a spare older computer you can add some nic cards and a wifi card if you want and get everything rolled into one piece of equipment.
 
Comcast only gives me 50 MB down and around 5 MB up avg.(Speed test) Do I even need Gigabit ??
Added to my OP...
 
Comcast only gives me 50 MB down and around 5 MB up avg.(Speed test) Do I even need Gigabit ??
Added to my OP...

That depends if you transfer files between computers often. Although if Comcast already gives you 50Mb speeds then if you only get a 10/100 router/switch setup then you'll already be capable of saturating 50% of it right from the beginning. Personally I think you should go with a Gigabit router/switch setup so you'll be ready for more bandwidth. It might not seem like it, but ISPs are increasing the average Internet speed a lot year after year. I wouldn't be surprised if in 2 years your 50Mb package will be at or more than 100Mb for the same price.

With that said. How much money do you have to spend? This is my setup on my Gigabit fiber connection.

$91.69 - Ubiquiti EdgeMax EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3
$24.99 - TP-LINK TL-SG108 8-Port 10/100/1000Mbps

I also have an AC-66U Router/Wireless Access Point for my wireless connectivity that I am running in Wireless AP mode only connected to my network, but since you said you don't need wireless I didn't include it. So do note that this setup above will not have any wireless capabilities, but it can easily be added at any time taking up one port on the switch (if you want it on the same LAN) or taking up the other LAN port on the router. (will be a different subnet, unless you bridge the two which I don't recommend for connections above 200MB.)

**I am assuming you mean 50Mb and not 50MB. Because 50MB = 400Mb which will mean you'll require gigabit ethernet to get the full connection speed.
 
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Skillz wrote:
**I am assuming you mean 50Mb and not 50MB. Because 50MB = 400Mb which will mean you'll require gigabit ethernet to get the full connection speed.

50 megabits per sec = 50 Mbps ?? correct ? then it is 50 Mbps
 
That's correct, but I didn't want to assume. 50Mbps is half of 100Mbps which is below 1000 (gigabit) LAN speed. In all honesty, you should go with Gigabit because the price difference (if any) is negligible by this point and time. The setup I recommended would be good for a connection speed up to 1000Mbps.

It's also leaps and bounds better than an "All in one" router/switch/wireless access point hardware. Although not quite on the scale of a custom built router, the ERL is rather powerful. Easy to setup once you update the, most likely, outdated firmware it's shipped with.
 
I would agree with the inter network communications if you have any, for example if you are on 100 you get in reality like 8MB/s file transfers where as on 1000 you get more like 125 MB/s transfers. And in reality if you need only 8 ports then the Tplink Green 1000 switches are pretty solid for $25.
 
I love the Edgemax but wouldn't recommend it to someone who wants a plug-and-play sort of setup. Get pretty much any router and a Netgear GS108 (I've found the ProSafe switches to be the most reliable among cheap switches).
 
The ERL is easier to setup than doing a custom router build. Something the OP is willing to inquire about.
 
I don't see where OP asked about a custom setup, and his level of knowledge of networking seems to be more on the layman side. I think an ERL would not be the best choice.
 
He said or equivalent setup right after asking for a router with 8 ports.

After updating the ERL it's just a few clicks away from working out the box, assuming it shipped with an older firmware like mine did.
 
Well, im not a total noob...but really have only done some basic networking stuff..if there is a manual I think i could figure it out...and you guys are here to answer the Q's I might have....
 
You still need Wifi though, right? If you go for an ERL, you'd need to buy the ERL for $100, an 8-port gigabit switch for $40-$50, and then a Wifi access point/range extender/whatever for another $50 or so.

It probably makes more sense to get a good consumer style router with wifi built in and add an 8-port switch.
 
There isn't a $200 or less consumer router/WiFi plus 8 port switch that will match the hardware I mentioned. You'll be paying less for significantly less capable hardware.

Yes it has a manual. I'll help you configure it if needed as well.
 
There isn't a $200 or less consumer router/WiFi plus 8 port switch that will match the hardware I mentioned. You'll be paying less for significantly less capable hardware.

Yes it has a manual. I'll help you configure it if needed as well.

There are plenty of quality <$100 routers that can be paired with a $40 8-port switch and will get the job done just fine.

The dude is on a 50 Mbps cable connection There will be difference in capability between a $200+ ERL plus AP plus switch than a $120 consumer router plus switch.

It's actually pretty hard to find a good standalone access point these days anyway. The $80 UniFi APs are not as fast as most consumer router WiFi subsystems. On top of that, to get a good AP the best value is generally to get a good router that has WiFi build in and turn off the routing!

I have no problem with the OP getting an ERL and standalone access point (or a router, on which he will disable routing), but it'll involve much more expense and complexity for no benefit in terms of performance. A TPLink AC1200 is $75 and includes a simultaneous dual-band 2.4 + 5 GHz 802.11AC access point. The ERL is $95 and doesn't provide wifi at all.
 
He's going to be more than fine with a TL-WDR3600 and a decent 8-port switch as kumquat mentioned. The new Mediatek platform (SoC) MT7621 performs even better than the ERL in some cases and is cheaper.
I have to say that I'm not really that impressed by the ERL running OpenWRT (Linux) in terms of performance...
//Danne
 
Having trouble finding benchmarks because the EdgeRouter X has the MT7621 chipset, and its routing performance doesn't seem in any way better than the ERL. Is there a particular product with the MT7621 that outperforms the ERL, and in what way (VPN, raw routing, etc)?
 
As long as you involve anything that doesn't do hw accel the Mediatek SoC is supposedly faster.
//Danne
 
An unmanaged switch is dead simple to use and is nothing to worry about in terms of complexity. Connect your router to the internet wall socket, whatever that might be. Run one Ethernet cable from the router to your switch, which is just a small box with 8 or more Ethernet ports and a power plug. Plug all of your other Ethernet stuff into the switch. Done. There's nothing for you to configure or update or fiddle with on an unmanaged switch. You don't have to know anything about the switch when accessing the router or using any other device plugged into the switch; it's like it's not even there.
 
here is the deal.....all this is in OP

1) I already have a WIFI a a cheap-belkin G54/n150
( *Not in OP- I am use'n this as my router ATM but it only has 4 port and every time one of the other computers needs to use the net I have to go in and switch wires around so they can get on and do what they need to. then I go switch it back--PITA) Also it is Slow...
2) I did some port forwarding on the old Linksys for gaming...as long as there is a menu I can get into the router and change a few things I can figure it out.

as far as the Edge-lite router Im seeing alot of Post about them crapping out(I have alot/some power loss here-afraid it might not hold up....(but on that note I can pay extra 12 bucks for a 3 yr full replacement from Newegg) how long have you had yours Skillz ??

Someone else posted another router but it seems a bit older in tech http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704130&Tpk=N82E16833704130..If anyone else has a router in mind Feel free to post a link. I figure the more choices in my price range the better

Would like to stay around $100 for the Router..Already sold on the 8 Port Switch..(was already Eye'n it before I posted this thread......
 
It was not clear in the OP that you have an access point already. It sounded to me like you had one Wifi device (the iPad) that needs to connect.

I've had my ERL for I think about 2 years now. I've had to replace it once. I have two more in client installations that have been fine under heavy use for 1+ years now.

If I were you, I'd get this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...04144&cm_re=TL-WDR3600-_-33-704-144-_-Product

It meets your needs, is well under budget, and will perform well.

Pair it with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...4R8168&cm_re=gs108-_-12K-008X-00026-_-Product
 
replace the wifi router with a decent wireless N, gigabit model. let that do the routing, and plug the switch into it.

my setup:

Comcast Modem/router in bridge mode ->
Netgear N600 Router ->
Netgear GS108 ->
additional wireless router for better range
 
as far as the Edge-lite router Im seeing alot of Post about them crapping out(I have alot/some power loss here-afraid it might not hold up....(but on that note I can pay extra 12 bucks for a 3 yr full replacement from Newegg) how long have you had yours Skillz ??

I've owned it less than a year. It's survived a few power outages since ownership. I believe I've lost power, that I know of, three times since I've had the router.

If you do have frequent power outages then I would suggest placing all your equipment on some sort of UPS. If not all of it then at least things that run 24/7.
 
Well, I am sorry I was very clear in my OP...but I had a router w/ 8 portswitch built in...I had all the devices in the OP already on it. (Including that Wifi- Wifi is for the wifes Ipad/she surfs mostly. not under hvy use)

When the Router took a dump I used the Wifi as a temp fix..(So not looking for Wifi router got wifi already)
 
So not looking for Wifi router got wifi already

Well the problem there is that non-Wifi routers that are as good as the $50-$60 Wifi routers are actually more expensive and offer no performance benefit. Additionally, the Wifi technology on a new Wifi router will be better.

If you buy a $60 Wifi router you can replace both of your aging devices at once. There's no reason to spend more on a wired router just so you can keep using your old access point.. which, by the way, is also a router.

The smart thing to do is buy a $60 router with Wifi built in, and use it to replace both your current router and access point.
 
I agree with kumquat and it'll do more than fine for your needs.
//Danne
 
The router/wifi would be in my closet. The networking box is in there so the wifi box would be enclosed in panel box. I will put the panel on the old Wifi I have now and see how much it interfears with the Wifi signal/range(my house is all STEELFRAME so it beats the signal down as it is).....

I guess I could drill a few holes to put the antennas thru...(if I had too)

All good ideas thanks for the input and time...
 
Well that's fine. You can keep the Belkin N150 as your WiFi access point if you want. The router I linked to has a physical switch that turns its Wifi signal off. I'd still recommend that over the wired router you linked to.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger....went with the router(TL-WDR-3600, and a TL-SG108 gigabit switch)
I looked at the Prosafe switch but in the end alot of people said It was a Hot mother..and it would be in an enclosed space So,I passed on it.....
I also stayed within budget a first for me when it comes to computers and computer hardware....

So thanks again guys for the input/discussion
 
Personal experience only, but I've owned 3 TP-Link switches, and after a while they've all needed reboots every week or two to stay functioning well. I own 3 ProSafe switches, and have at least 4 more in client installations, and none of them have ever given me a single problem. They run a little warm but they are bomber. I've had OK, but not perfect, luck with DLink also.
 
Personal experience only, but I've owned 3 TP-Link switches, and after a while they've all needed reboots every week or two to stay functioning well. I own 3 ProSafe switches, and have at least 4 more in client installations, and none of them have ever given me a single problem. They run a little warm but they are bomber. I've had OK, but not perfect, luck with DLink also.

I've got at least 20 prosafe switches where I work. They are pretty much bullet proof. Oh, and if they are running warm, then there is something wrong with them I have never seen one run warm.
 
I have a TL-SG108 switch and it works fine, no needed reboots etc.
//Danne
 
I've got a TL-SG108 as well. Have not had to reboot it since I've plugged it in. Granted it has powered down/rebooted due to power outages a couple times.
 
Personal experience only, but I've owned 3 TP-Link switches, and after a while they've all needed reboots every week or two to stay functioning well. I own 3 ProSafe switches, and have at least 4 more in client installations, and none of them have ever given me a single problem. They run a little warm but they are bomber. I've had OK, but not perfect, luck with DLink also.

My TP-Link router has been very rangy in performance but it seems more related to the firmware, the latest mine is on has been rock solid for months now, and the last release I was on had some really buggy issues.

I am torn on the TP-Link routers they offer good price to performance but they do seem a bit unstable dependent on the firmware they run.

That's a good router your getting just flash it to the latest firmware.
 
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