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need tips
- Thread starter lovelybow
- Start date
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- Aug 10, 2000
- Messages
- 6,847
I think the first step is to decide what you want to do. you cant just pick up a dremel and start cutting, or a can of paint and just start painting. You really need to think about where you want to go with your case. if your modding for pure performance, you need to think about airflow, Fan positions, what type of cooling your going to use, ect. if your modding for looks, then you need to come up with a theme/look that you want. then you need to figure out what mods need to be done to get that look. window size/locations, Hardware upgrades, Fan mods, after all the cutting and grinding then you start the painting process.
You cant just grab an old case and start "Modding" without a plan!
You cant just grab an old case and start "Modding" without a plan!
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
What do you need? Well... whatever you want to mod!
Tools you'll generally make use of:
- Dremel + cutoff disks and filing attachments.
- Set of metal files (at least 1 straight and 1 round. I like a triangle file too).
- Sand paper
- Tin Snips (possibly, probably not).
- Acrylic Score Tool (if you're making straight cuts in any plastic, using the Score and snap method).
- Eye Protection!
- Sanding Block (makes sanding large surfaces MUCH easier).
- Hot Glue Gun
- Drill + lots of bits
As for paint... You should get a good "Self Etching Primer" in either gray or white (get gray if you're using dark paints, white if you're painting in lighter colours, such as pink, light blue, light yellow etc.) Regular primers or metal primers just arn't so good.
Also, you dont *need* car paint. I like it because it has a spray that's not in a cone shape... but in more of a "line." This makes it much easier to do a "sweeping" motion.
High heat, or good metal paint is good for an alternitive to car paint.
Also, you'll need sandpaper from 200grit up to 2000grit for painting (200 for initial case sanding, 400 for sanding the layers of primer, 600 for sanding layers of colour, 1500 for sanding the final layer of colour and 2000 for the layers of clearcoat IF you choose to sand them. I don't).
That's about it...
Tools you'll generally make use of:
- Dremel + cutoff disks and filing attachments.
- Set of metal files (at least 1 straight and 1 round. I like a triangle file too).
- Sand paper
- Tin Snips (possibly, probably not).
- Acrylic Score Tool (if you're making straight cuts in any plastic, using the Score and snap method).
- Eye Protection!
- Sanding Block (makes sanding large surfaces MUCH easier).
- Hot Glue Gun
- Drill + lots of bits
As for paint... You should get a good "Self Etching Primer" in either gray or white (get gray if you're using dark paints, white if you're painting in lighter colours, such as pink, light blue, light yellow etc.) Regular primers or metal primers just arn't so good.
Also, you dont *need* car paint. I like it because it has a spray that's not in a cone shape... but in more of a "line." This makes it much easier to do a "sweeping" motion.
High heat, or good metal paint is good for an alternitive to car paint.
Also, you'll need sandpaper from 200grit up to 2000grit for painting (200 for initial case sanding, 400 for sanding the layers of primer, 600 for sanding layers of colour, 1500 for sanding the final layer of colour and 2000 for the layers of clearcoat IF you choose to sand them. I don't).
That's about it...
Appliance epoxy works VERY well, if you happen to need only gloss white, gloss black, or almond. The paint lays easily, very smoothly, and the finish is much more durable than most other paints. You also have the advantage of it matching your fridge or stove 
digital_exhaust
[H]ard|DCer of the Month - May 2008
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2006
- Messages
- 6,903
Krylon makes a "Hammered" finish paint that is really easy to work with. The finish is somewhat textured though, so keep that in mind, but it is extremely durable once applied and comes in several colors..
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
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- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
digital_exhaust said:
Yeah, it makes the piece look like hammered steel. I've used it before... 10 or so coats of colour + clear coat makes the piece HEAVY... lol.
It's basically an wraught (or black) iron paint... IMO... Has to stand up to lots of weather abuse in it's intended environment.
Any finish, if done properly should be quite durable. I accidentally threw a metal 4x HardDrive cage on to my case side window :cries:. There's only a TINY almost invisible dent in the door (not even a scratch in the paint!). Proper technique goes a LONG WAY.
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
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- 25,066
Kil4Thril said:Appliance epoxy works VERY well, if you happen to need only gloss white, gloss black, or almond. The paint lays easily, very smoothly, and the finish is much more durable than most other paints. You also have the advantage of it matching your fridge or stove
*shudder* but it's glossy white or black!
Like... not the good kind of MNPCTECH gloss either! It's the "Hey! Look at me! I'm a fridge!" kinda gloss.
Sigh. I know this from experience
. It's also IMPOSSIBLE to sand off Arcygenical said:Sigh. I know this from experience
Yep. I had a bunch left over after changing colors on my fridge (white to black. 1 coat and it was easy. Looks great). I used it for the Mobo tray and a couple of internal braces in my Masstige. I used Duplicolor MetalCast on most of it.
Warning- the Metalcast paints LOOK incredible. They're durability and scratch resistance can be likened to a snowball's chances in hell.