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Need some advice on my WC setup.

tcc

n00b
Joined
Jul 17, 2005
Messages
48
Hello all.

Friend told me about this site and it is absolutely great.

Ok, I plan to install a WC system but have been putting if off for quite some time. My current parts are a swiftech MCP650 pump, DD TDX block, and a black ice micro 80mm rad. All of this is going to be used with 1/2" ID tubing.

Now what I want to add is a chipset and GPU block. Would this be wise to add these into the loop? I don't want to run 2 loops because I don't have enough space or $$ :D. If it is ok, what are good chipset and GPU blocks? If not, whicj one would you add to the CPU loop?

Thanks
 
Don't WC a chipset: a good passive heatsink (Zalman makes a big one that should fit just fine) with some airflow will cool just fine unless you are going for >3.0 OCs or so ;).

For gpu blocks, good choices are the DD Maze4 gpu and Swiftech MCW50, but I suggest the Maze4 as it has many different versions to fit ramsinks, just about any gpu, chrome tops, etc.

You will really want more than a BIM rad, single or even double 80mm rads just aren't enough for modern cpus/gpus. A BIP from DD is about the same price as a BIM, and if you are good at cutting holes, then you can get a BIP2 for just a few $ more, and will be able to handle you OCd 2500+ & 9600 Pro with as quiet fans as you want. Really, try to find a way to use a 120mm BIP instead of a BIM, as those are just too small to handle any modern or last generation hardware decently.
 
Thanks for the info. I also forgot to mention that I'll be using 2 criticool reservoirs.

I won't be able to use anything bigger then a BIM because I want everything inside the case and with a BIP 120mm that'll mean mounting it outside (which is what I don't want).

I also don't want to cut any holes or mod the case in any way. So I guess my options are limited to just WC'ing the cpu :(
 
you could just stand the rad up inside your case somewhere, like this person:

http://home.cogeco.ca/~legarep/p1010552_8x6.jpg

It would be a shame to cut your WC short b/c of a bad rad. You already have a great pump and CPU block. The maze 4 gpu block will do well.

You only need one reservoir. They don't add to your cooling potential at all.

Maybe you could buy a new case?
 
How about if I get an 80mm to 120mm fan adaptor and get a BIX or BIP rad and use my 80mm panaflo fan like this

fa80120-11-sm.gif


What is better, the BIP or BIX rad?
 
better yet...

120mm rad + 120mm fan mounted to 80mm blow hole with the above adaptor...
 
^^that idea sounds good.

A BIP is thinner, so if your fan is a quiet/low cfm fan, then get a BIP. A BIX/Heatercore is thicker, so if your fan pushes 90+ cfm I'd get one of those.
 
Damn, nice idea Fawkes ;)

Yeah, I planned on putting the rad/fan combo where the blow hole is in the Thermaltake case. It already has a bracket there for an 80mm fan so I moded it. I plan on getting a Panaflo 120mm high speed or ultra high speed fan.

Which way should it be mounted/configured?

Air flow up and out of the case.
aa5sn.png


or down into the case
bb9gk.png
 
I would like to say that if you are using the system in your sig you WILL notice an advantage from watercooling the chipset. What many people forget is that the Socket A Athlon XP do not have the onboard memory controller. That means a lot more heat being pumped out from the chipset, also the NF7 fan is a POS.
 
Erasmus354 said:
I would like to say that if you are using the system in your sig you WILL notice an advantage from watercooling the chipset. What many people forget is that the Socket A Athlon XP do not have the onboard memory controller. That means a lot more heat being pumped out from the chipset, also the NF7 fan is a POS.

I actually replaced that fan with the copper Vantec one. I guess that doesn't help any?? :(
 
tcc said:
I actually replaced that fan with the copper Vantec one. I guess that doesn't help any?? :(


Well if your temps are alright, and the noise isn't disturbing you then they are correct, there isn't much reason to watercool it. If the noise is bothersome however there is a reason right there. The NF7-s fan isn't bad because it cools poorly, it is more because it is notoriously prone to failure and is known to be noisy.
 
You'll want to do the first picture that you suggested, but switch the rad and fan. This is called "pull" because the fan is drawing air out of the rad and exhausting it. If you blow the fan onto the rad you will get reduced cooling.
 
Russ said:
You'll want to do the first picture that you suggested, but switch the rad and fan. This is called "pull" because the fan is drawing air out of the rad and exhausting it. If you blow the fan onto the rad you will get reduced cooling.

Like this??

bb9gk4tx.png


I've always thought that you'd want to blow cool air on to the rad to cool it down?? Isn't that the way a car cooling system works.
 
fans are very poor at pushing air against resistance, resistance like say hundreds of tightly packed cooling fins an inch deep ;) Fans work much better pulling air through radiators than they do pushing it through.
 
Thanks, you guys are great and helpful ;)

Now with this "new" WC setup, can I add a GPU and chipset block?
 
a chipset block is a waste of money. They don't get hot enough to warrent watercooling. If it starts to get too loud or hot for you, then buy an aftermarket fan or heatsink for it. If you get SLI this won't work, but a lot of people get a Zalman chipset heatsink available on Newegg. Search for it, it shouldn't be hard to spot.

But you can certainly add a GPU block. I suggest the Maze4 GPU block from Danger Den.

Although, this might get a little hot depending on your OC. IT could get fairly hot even with just a CPU block. (The GPU block shouldn't raise your water temps by more than a few more degrees) You might want to find another place in your case to put another single 120mm rad. If there aren't any openings, the floor of the case should still work. I suggest trying to make it work.
 
Ok, I'll pass on the chipset block for now and just get the gpu. ;)

As for the direction of flow, which one would benefit more? Sucking "cool" air through the rad and into the case?

aa5sn7qx.jpg


Or sucking "warm/hot" air through the rad and exhausting it out of the case?

bb9gk6bu.jpg
 
Out. The point of watercooling is to have the case be coo. :) Your case won't be that hot, as the heat is being transferred onto waterblock, through your tubes, and out the rad.
 
Ok, I was thinking further about my WC setup. Is it possible to use both a 120mm rad for the CPU AND the BIM rad for the GPU with only the one pump? If so, how would you setup the loops?
 
yes, although you would have to make sure you had a good pump (i.e. DD D5/MCP655/etc, those are different names for the same pump) because two rads would create increased resistance. It WOULD help your cooling though as long as you pump was sufficient.

Just run the tubing from barb to barb, including the rads wherever you see fit (set up the parts like pump, waterblock, res, and rads before adding tubing, then make the route the shortest possible that encompasses all of them.). There really isn't a "set" way of tubing a setup, just the shortest possible. It doesn't matter what order anything is in, but some people like to position the reservoir so that it is right before the pump. If you put the res in your drive bays somewhere this can be easily achieved, just put the pump right below/in front of (on the floor of the case) the drive bays and going from res to pump will be a logical choice.
 
WooHoo, that's good to hear ;)

I was just comparing the MCP650 (the one that I have) and 655 and there seems to be no difference in the two pumps. Spec for spec, they are xactly the same. So this shouldn't be a problem with the two rad setup. Now my BIM doesn't have to go to waste and collect dust :D

What would you suggest to be a good route? I was thinking of:
pump>cpu>rad/heatercore (single 120mm)>GPU>BIM rad>res>pump
 
The queston you have to ask is whether the added resistance of the extra radiator and the added noise from the 80mm fan will balence out the slight added cooling. I'd bet no. Just stick with the single 120mm and you'll be fine
 
I think I'll test both ways and see what the results are.

Was doing some spec comparisons between the silverprop fusion hl and my tdx. TDX = 100% copper while HL = brass top with copper base. Will I have a prob with the brass top on the HL "mixing" with the copper on both blocks?

Also, I was thinking of making my route:
pump>120mm rad>cpu>BIM rad>gpu>res>pump...yes/no???
 
This is what i have for running a dual rad and it seems to work pretty well for me.

2515954.jpg


This is the actual path (excuse my paintshop abilities)
930440water_route.jpg
 
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