need input for selecting ups

[radnads]

I have seen lots of post recommending PSU's. And it seems many people advocate getting a UPS. So does any one want to recommend a UPS. I have a monster 5100 for my TV. I cost about $500. DO I need to spend that much for my computer UPS? Or are there any good ones for around $100 to $150.

 

[Ice Czar]

well use the APC selector to figure out what KVA rating you want (entirely a matter of how many components are being powered and for how long),
just enough time to shutdown safely or hold a blockparty LAN during the big blackout

but its likely youll be closer to the TV than your hoped for budget

then with that figure compare various features that comparible makes have, mostly that would be the cost of replacement batteries (they will eventually go south) management software they come with, alarms, bells and whistles

major players are APC
Tripp Lite
Liebert
Belkin

its even possible if your willing to risk it to purchase surplus or cycled out corporate UPSes
off ebay, but figure youll need batteries and pay close attention to shipping
also its not that easy to get rid of the batteries, they are several tens of pounds of toxic acid coated lead and while sealed need to be properly disposed of.

then there is the Build your own approach
DIY UPS

 

[BillR]

I have seen lots of post recommending PSU's. And it seems many people advocate getting a UPS. So does any one want to recommend a UPS. I have a monster 5100 for my TV. I cost about $500. DO I need to spend that much for my computer UPS? Or are there any good ones for around $100 to $150.

If you have an HTS-5100 then you have this:

http://www.monstercable.com/power/productPagePower.asp?pin=1316&LastPage=Reference Power

A most excellent power cleaner and something I highly recommend, but it’s not a UPS.

This is Monster’s HT UPS 1000 uninterruptible power supply:

http://www.monstercable.com/power/productPagePower.asp?pin=1227

This too is a very good product.

I have noticed that a lot of people seem to misunderstand the difference between the two types of product. I mention this only to make sure this conversation is all on the same track.

One of each is always best

Edit

I have had very good luck and service from this company for UPS's and saved a buck in the process:

https://www.refurbups.com/default.asp

 

[Ice Czar]

sharp eyes there BillR

that looks like a "real" surge protector \ power conditioner
(meaning its not a simple scraficial MOV)
Power Conditioning 101
How Surge Protectors Work
Dangers of MOV surge protectors

to elaborate your point
its a niffty appliance for surge free, clean power, but its still suceptible to brownouts\ sags of the power, which is what a UPS can address

an example of the impact sag can have on a PSU from Mike Chin @ spcr

A Technical PS: Output Voltage Regulation and AC Voltage @ silentPCreview

Voltage regulation with most PSUs examined by SPCR has been virtually unnecessary. Perhaps because only reputable brand samples are submitted for our stringent testing, almost every PSU has passed voltage regulation checks easily, often with flying colors. The Seasonic Super series were among the best in this regard, and the new Rev.03 models are no different, with tolerance better than +/-2% in every case.

A test instrument mentioned in the article SPCR's Revised PSU Testing System was used briefly with the new Rev. 03 samples. The California Instruments 801RP Variable AC Power Supply (CI-801RP) allows AC voltage to be varied in order to consider the effects of brownouts and other real-world conditions on PSU performance.

As the voltage is reduced, the PSU has to draw more current (Amps) in order to maintain the output voltages. The actual power drawn by the PSU rises when the input voltage is reduced. This is why, for example, that a power supply rated for 120VAC, 5A might be rated for 240VAC, 3A. Maintaining steady output voltage lines becomes much harder with lower or varying AC voltage. This is how PSU voltage regulation can be really tested.

The PSU was placed in the thermal test rig, with 120VAC power delivered by the CI-801RP. Each PSU was warmed up for a few minutes at 120W, then set to deliver full power. Internal test box temps were ~37°C. AC measurements were made with the Kill-a-Watt AC power meter. Voltmeters were used to continuously monitor the 12V, 5V and 3.3V output lines. The VAC was then reduced from the standard 120VAC down to 80VAC. This is a very demanding test, as the Seasonic PSUs are rated for full power output with 100-240VAC.

<CHART>

Note that the output voltage remains constant through these dramatic drops in AC input voltage — and the associated increases in the current and power drawn by the PSU.

The same test was conducted at 300W output on two other SPCR-reviewed PSUs that will remain unnamed at this time: One rated at 350W sparked and shut down within 15 seconds of running at 90VAC. It appears to be dead. The latter, rated at 380W, auto-shutdown safely within seconds of 100VAC operation. It appears to consider operation at any AC voltage under ~103W to be unsafe.

It is a measure of the Super series' quality design. It means that sags and brownouts in AC power, experienced by many people in many places in the world, should have no effect on a computer powered by one of the Seasonic Super series PSUs. A table of the Super Silencer 400 could have been posted but it would have been redundant because the voltage accuracy and output remained constant down to 80VAC there as well.

We'll look at the VR / VAC relationship in more detail, and examine this aspect of performance in other PSUs in the near future.

 

[radnads]

Thanks for all the help. The apc selector was very helpful. I was thinking of getting the Back-UPS RS 1500V.

 

[radnads]

And thanks billR. I was actually thinking of the HT Ups 1000 and the salesman recommended the 5100. They are about the same price and I figured 5100 is better than 1000. I had no idea the 5100 was not a ups. I have only had my wega and 5100 for two days now. I plan on calling Greg and asking why the 5100 would work better for me.

 

[Ice Czar]

you might want to consider that its possible that APC selector hasnt been updated all that recently,
and that they may have component draw baselines lower than your current config
(for instance if they used a P4 1.5GHz it would be 75 watts, whereas a P4 3.4E is 117Watts)
If your using a PFC supply that offsets it a bit the other direction

so its a rough guide only, in short err upwards

 

[BillR]

This is a piece Ice Czar should play with:

http://www.monstercable.com/power/lineVS.asp

Totally amazing how well it does what it does. It's just so damned expensive