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Need help with multiple loops

D

drechana

n00b
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
5
Hi all

I am going to be buying a Lian Li 343B for a new water cooled system. Basically i need help with the looping and the extra parts needed. I will be cooling one processor and 2 8800 GTS's with a view to cool the ram with water at a much later date so ignore that for now.

I have read so many different ways to do things and it just confuses the hell out of me until i can see something on paper.

What i have got so far is this

Laing D5-Vario (1/2") - £57.87
D-TEK FuZion CPU Block - £33.18
EK-FC8800 8800 GTS - x 2 - £103.98
Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing
Danger Den Clear Dual Bay Reservoir - 2x5.25" - - £22.68 (Subject to Change)
HWLabs Black Ice Stealth GT360 (Black) x2 - £75.94
Yate Loon Medium Speed Fan: D12SM-12 x 3 - £13.47
Nylon Hose Clamps 16mm - 19mm x 10 - £4.90
Arctic Silver 5 - £4.69
Fluid XP+ Ultra Midnight Blue - 1 Litre - £22.99
Lian Li 343B Case - £220
Sound Proofing - £34.08

Now the models i have come up with so far are these



Lol, excuse the crudeness but im not really an AutoCad person

Thats all i have so far but how the hell do i go about it... with splitters and Y fittings or something? Any help would be greatly appriciated and feel free to rip this apart, call me a noob and suggest something better. The case gives me plenty of room to move about so space is no problem. I much prefer the idea of having a seperate loop for the cpu and the two gpu's by the way, but not sure if that is the way it should be done. Also people say to test the pump for a while before putting it into the system. I presume that is done by using a seperate PSU (for a 12v DC) and linking it all up outside the case? One last thing, i am worried about the bleeding part...having the processor with nothing on it to take heat away for even the smallest time worries me, put my mind at rest please :)

So i will leave you to ponder if you will and any help as i say will be most appreiciated.

Thanks all

Drec
 
I had a similar idea a couple of years back, and was helpfully reminded by [H]ers that the flow will naturally follow the path of least resistance. Considering the rather small temperature rise which occurs over the course of a loop (between the rad outlet and the point at which it re-enters), sticking the whole lot in series will work better.
 
rincewind said:
I had a similar idea a couple of years back, and was helpfully reminded by [H]ers that the flow will naturally follow the path of least resistance. Considering the rather small temperature rise which occurs over the course of a loop (between the rad outlet and the point at which it re-enters), sticking the whole lot in series will work better.
Click to expand...

what he said

generaly, the loop will reach operateing temp after about 30 minuets any way, ie, the water will be nearly the same temp all the way thought the loop, the difference between the hot side of the rad and the cold side will only differ by a degree or 2 tops... the size of your rad makes more difference than anything else. other wise, your first loop setup looks good.

The only thing you might consider cooling in addition to it all would be your northbridge. With out the airflow of a cpu fan near by, even with active cooling on the northbridge, they still tend to get hot, it should easly drop into the loop inbetween your cpu and graphics cards, and with a 120.2 rad it shouldnt make any real difference to loop temps
 
Also can someone point me in the direction of a north and southbridge waterblock that will actually fit this board? I have looked everywhere but cannot find one.

Thanks
 
any DD northbridge block should fit.. however.. and i hate that they did it like this, there is no way to do it without removeing the mosfet coolers as well.. now, there is someone that makes mosfet water coolers for exactly this reason, however, rightnow the brand escapes me.. (gimme a sec and ill find it) and really now that i see it, you may not have any real issues as far as over heating gose considering that they are all joined by heatpipes. just make sure you keep some air flow in the area, (and rear 80 or 120 should do fine)

if you want to get into it, this block http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=297&cat=46&page=1 should fit both your northbridge and south bridge (so buy 2),

/edit
and for the mosfets, 2 of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...SpacingNo_Fittings.html?tl=g30c89&id=hRBg4n6W
 
Well that chipset block is lovley. People on another forum tho are telling me not to remove the heat pipes that are already on the crosshair because they do a perfectly good job and adding chipset and mofset water blocks will = a big pressure drop in my loop. Thing is though i want it to look asthtically pleasing as well as having performance.

I cant see it dropping that much and the temp being that much different can you?

Please discuss

Drec

P.S Ty for the advice on the mofset cooler as well but that thing is damn ugly lol.
 
no.. it wont drop that much, however, going water with these parts probably wont really have much improvement over the stock stuff... to each thier own.. they are pretty much correct, i didnt realize it had heatpipes to begin with.. :S
 
Yeah i does, but now i have changed things. I am getting an asus striker and leaving AMD. Im going for an E6850. I said i would never go back to Intel but AMD i have just lost all hope in. Thats another story though.

So i am going to WC them anyway cause im getting a machine that will just look drop dead gorgeous and i might as well go the whole hog. I might get another loop so that i can cool those seperatley.

But that can come firther down the line. I will buy those bits now and the pump later. So cause im going for that board that chipset block that the above poster linked i am going to get them but as for the mosfet blocks i still have not decided.

Also can anyone reccomned a cheaper pump that does the job that will ne good for the scond loop[ for the NB/SB and mosfets? DOnt wannna pay a fortune for the second one.

Whaddya think?
 
A Hydor L20 is about as cheap as you can get (under £15 at Specialtech). They aren't very impressive (about 5ft head if I remember rightly from my old Asetek kit) but would easily suffice for the purposes of NB/SB cooling.
 
I personally would never use a Y simply because like air, water follows the path of least resistance. Unless you make both sides of equal length/restriction, the flow of the longer or more restrictive side will suffer greatly. The 343 is a big case. Yu can fit 2 independent loops in there. If you need only one loop, I would put all the component in series.
Reservoir/T-Line -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> Radiator (optional) -> Northbridge -> GPU1 -> GPU2

What you also have to remember is the water entering and exiting each component is also no more than a few degrees c higher, so you wont notice TOO much of a difference.
 
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