Need Feedback on Final Parts List

T

TechSoldier

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
259
Here's what I've got so far. Any feedback/suggestions welcome.

Setup
Processor: i7 2600k
Motherboard: EVGA P67 FTW
GPU: GTX580 Classified 3GB (when released) x2
Storage: Crucial 128GB SSD OS / WD 500GB Storage
Memory: Dominator 16GB (ordering soon to replace Vengance 8GB)
Fans: Scythe AP-15s x10
Case: Silverstone TJ07 (custom build)
PSU: AX1200

XSPC RX480 Radiator
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9391/ex-rad-160/XSPC_RX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s570

XSPC RX240 Radiator
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8522/ex-rad-145/XSPC_RX240_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160

CPU Block - EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...preme_HF_-_Full_EN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c323s828

GPU Blocks - EK Full Nickel w/ Arcylic (May hold off to confirm they will fit EVGA GTX580 3GB Classifieds)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...EK-FC580_GTX_-_EN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c311s1351

Pump - MCP35X
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...PWM_Controlled_Water_Pump.html?tl=g30c107s153

Tubing - Tygon Black/Clear 1/2" ID
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...atory_Tubing_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s172#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._-_Laboratory_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172#blank

Reservoir - EK Multioption 250 Advanced
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html?tl=g30c97#blank

Thermochill EC6 (I know....use distilled but I want to add more aesthetics with clear tubing and red coolant. This seems to be the best option)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thec6noncoco4.html

Bitspower Barbs
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1030
 
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Instead of putting links, why don't you actually put the part name? Most of us at a glance can tell what part it is just from the name, and it is much quicker than having to click on each link.
 
I can't comment on the parts themselves as I don't know too much, but FrozenCPU is usually pricier, I checked out some of the parts versus other resellers like sidewinders, the CPU block is about ~$10 cheaper and a couple of parts are about ~$5 cheaper. Don't know if it really matters to you, but thought I'd throw that out there :)
 
Hi,

I would go with EVGA GeForce GTX 580 3072MB Hydro Copper 2. It comes with water block that works for sure (Swifttech WB) with it and it has warranty.

http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=03G-P3-1591-AR&family=GeForce 500 Series Family&sw=

Regarding parts they are all good. It is questionable do you need extra 240 rad. If you are going to OC those 580's to 1GHz realm than you will need it. At stock speeds of GPU and CPU OC-ed to "normal" numbers (read not extreme) your 3 sources will produce ruffly bit under 800 watt heat. Even good 360 can handle it. 480 would be good choice. On other hand overkill is mostly welcome if it does not cost to high of a pressure drop.

You could go with one more pump and make parallel loop's. Leave CPU WB with 240 and one pump and maybe XSPC Restop and make second loop with 480 and GPU water blocks (+ res). Pump for CPU loop could be even DDC 350 with top, it has enough flow and head pressure and it is quieter.

Slick solution for Dual loop is a XSPC Dual Bay dual pump res for DDC based pumps.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/reservoirs/dual-5-25”-split-bay-reservoir-alu-front/

Next to it you could go with some type of system for easier maintenance. Like tap on bottom of a loop and fill port on top of it.
Also temp sensor can be handy.
http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.u...aquaero-aquastream-xt-and-aquaduct-71162.html

Good luck

MD
 
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Updated the list with product titles.

MD,
I'm waiting for the new GTX580 Classifieds version to come out and plan to pick up a pair and add the EK water blocks to those, if available. If not I'll go with the EVGA Hydro version. Only reason I'd prefer to go with EK is for aesthetics and their great performance.

As for the loop, I was under the impression that a single loop will be more than adequate for this setup single the temp difference going from the CPu then to the GPU will be minimal. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Dual bay res is not an option for this particular build which is why the EK 250 was selected, although I must say I do love that dual bay res.

Will definitely be adding a drain and fill port, just have to figure out where once I start putting the system together. Also, I'm glad you reminded me, I do need to add a few temp sensors.


Thanks everyone for your feedback.
 
With the AP-15's, you definitely DO NOT want the RX models, or RS models for that matter. Those are high static pressure fans, and you'll get much better results with a high FPI radiator, my favorite being the Black Ice GTS (GT Stealth) radiators. The XSPC radiators simply cannot maximize the cooling potential of those Gentle Typhoons.
 
Thanks Tsumi for the suggestion. I probably should have mentioned that I'll be adding a fan controller to turn down the AP-15 rpms a little to keep the system quiet. Based on my previous research it seems that the GTX 480 would be the best solution for fans 1800+ but since I am planning to be below that, this is why I chose the XSPC 480.
 
TechSoldier said:
Thanks Tsumi for the suggestion. I probably should have mentioned that I'll be adding a fan controller to turn down the AP-15 rpms a little to keep the system quiet. Based on my previous research it seems that the GTX 480 would be the best solution for fans 1800+ but since I am planning to be below that, this is why I chose the XSPC 480.
Click to expand...

In push or pull only (fans only on one side), the GTS and GTX radiators do better above the 1400-1500 RPM range. However, in push/pull, they start outperforming the RX and RS radiators at the 1000 RPM range. Additionally, the Gentle Typhoons have higher static pressure than the fans commonly used in testing (usually yate loons), so the equivalent cooling RPM range would be lower.

The point of having AP-15's is to maximize cooling when you need it under high load, right? Then it's best to get a radiator that will maximize the fan's cooling potential. When you're not under load, all you need is a bit of airflow through the rad to keep things cool.

I use a fan controller on my GTS rad as well. Often, I just leave it at the 40% rating on my 1500 RPM fans and it is enough to keep things cool at idle.
 
My configuration will be a push OR pull for both radiators as I wont have enough room for both push and pull. If I'm understanding you correctly I think you are making the point that even if I turn down the rpm of the AP-15s I would still be equivalent to the output of the testing fans at around, lets say 1500, therefore the GTX 480 would still be a better choice. Sound right?
 
Tsumi said:
With the AP-15's, you definitely DO NOT want the RX models, or RS models for that matter. Those are high static pressure fans, and you'll get much better results with a high FPI radiator, my favorite being the Black Ice GTS (GT Stealth) radiators. The XSPC radiators simply cannot maximize the cooling potential of those Gentle Typhoons.
Click to expand...

AP-15's are fairly quiet fans. They have high static pressure for the noise level they generate, but they don't have the highest static pressure of any fan out there. The RX is a good match for quiet fans including Gentle Typhoons.

Gentle Typhoons are not bought for maximum performance, they're bought for maximum performance at a low noise level. You'd want a 34mm fan for a high FPI radiator.
 
EarthwormJim said:
AP-15's are fairly quiet fans. They have high static pressure for the noise level they generate, but they don't have the highest static pressure of any fan out there. The RX is a good match for quiet fans including Gentle Typhoons.

Gentle Typhoons are not bought for maximum performance, they're bought for maximum performance at a low noise level. You'd want a 34mm fan for a high FPI radiator.
Click to expand...

A Scythe Gentle Typhoon has higher static pressure and lower noise than another fan of similar RPM, especially Yate Loons. Which is why Gentle Typhoons are a special favorite among the watercooling community for use on radiators. And Yate Loons are the standard fans used for radiator testing. As I said, on the high FPI GTS/GTX radiators, they surpass the RX radiators in terms of cooling capabilities at the 1500 RPM level for Yate Loons in pull only, and 1000 RPM level for push/pull. Considering how Gentle Typhoons have higher static pressure than Yate Loons at the same rpm speed, it can reasonably be assumed that the GTS/GTX radiators will surpass the RX at lower RPM levels with Gentle Typhoons on them.
 
Tsumi said:
A Scythe Gentle Typhoon has higher static pressure and lower noise than another fan of similar RPM, especially Yate Loons. Which is why Gentle Typhoons are a special favorite among the watercooling community for use on radiators. And Yate Loons are the standard fans used for radiator testing. As I said, on the high FPI GTS/GTX radiators, they surpass the RX radiators in terms of cooling capabilities at the 1500 RPM level for Yate Loons in pull only, and 1000 RPM level for push/pull. Considering how Gentle Typhoons have higher static pressure than Yate Loons at the same rpm speed, it can reasonably be assumed that the GTS/GTX radiators will surpass the RX at lower RPM levels with Gentle Typhoons on them.
Click to expand...

You're right, I didn't realize how well HW Labs performed lately.

http://www.skinneelabs.com/triple-radiator-comparison-v2/4/
 
Only thing I have to add is avoid EK like the plague. Their terrible CS and shitty nickel plating job is a bad combination.
 
TechSoldier said:
My configuration will be a push OR pull for both radiators as I wont have enough room for both push and pull. If I'm understanding you correctly I think you are making the point that even if I turn down the rpm of the AP-15s I would still be equivalent to the output of the testing fans at around, lets say 1500, therefore the GTX 480 would still be a better choice. Sound right?
Click to expand...

If you go with a GTS radiator, you can pull of push/pull in the same amount of space that it takes for just the RX radiator with pull only. A GTS radiator is only 20mm thick, with two 25mm thick fans that makes a total thickness of only 70mm. I believe the RX radiator is ~50-60mm thick on its own, so with a fan in pull or push only, that makes a thickness of 75-85mm for just pull only on an RX radiator.

I think it's fairly clear which would be the better performer here.
 
TechSoldier said:
No 480 option for the GTS, at least that I know of.
Click to expand...

Ah, well, in that case go with a Swiftech radiator. Or maybe Koolance, despite the bad press they got early on, they do make very good quality stuff nowadays. Just not something with an ultra-low FPI like the RX radiators. Or just use a GTX radiator in push or pull only. Either way, it'll perform better than the RX radiator.
 
Tsumi said:
Ah, well, in that case go with a Swiftech radiator. Or maybe Koolance, despite the bad press they got early on, they do make very good quality stuff nowadays. Just not something with an ultra-low FPI like the RX radiators. Or just use a GTX radiator in push or pull only. Either way, it'll perform better than the RX radiator.
Click to expand...

The MCR series holds up well, it has a nice compromise in FPI and will make good use of gentle typhoons at low RPM.

Their chrome/nickle plating on their waterblocks and machining look like garbage, but their radiators are amazing value and well built.


I would not bother with push pull honestly. If you want to enhance a radiator's performance, just stick a fan shroud on it (hollowed out 120mm fan will due). The performance gain is about the same as push/pull and it will be quieter.


BTW TechSoldier, I'd recommend primochill tubing. It is really nice to work with, and can manage very tight bends without heat treatment. You can get it pretty cheap on amazon too (free shipping, no tax in CA). $3.50 per foot is ridiculous for that Tygon tubing.

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Bla...4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315339314&sr=1-4
 
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I've been going back and forth on the tubing. Seems that the Tygon is know to cloud more easily than primochill so I'll probably go with primochill at least for the clear tubing. Originally I was thiking over going with barbs and no clamps but after doing a lot of research it seems that compression fittings, although cost a lot more, are the way to go.

Will not go with Swiftech radiators. Hear too many people with some serious setups complain about the quality and performance.

Still need to decide on radiators. Input here is a lot different than in the watercooling section over at Overclock.net

Picked up a brand new MCP35X for $80 shipped! Will be ordering the rest of the parts this week so I can start on my TJ07 project. I'll be sure to post a link to the build log.
 
TechSoldier said:
I've been going back and forth on the tubing. Seems that the Tygon is know to cloud more easily than primochill so I'll probably go with primochill at least for the clear tubing. Originally I was thiking over going with barbs and no clamps but after doing a lot of research it seems that compression fittings, although cost a lot more, are the way to go.

Will not go with Swiftech radiators. Hear too many people with some serious setups complain about the quality and performance.

Still need to decide on radiators. Input here is a lot different than in the watercooling section over at Overclock.net

Picked up a brand new MCP35X for $80 shipped! Will be ordering the rest of the parts this week so I can start on my TJ07 project. I'll be sure to post a link to the build log.
Click to expand...

Barbs vs compression fittings are more of an aesthetic type thing, choosing which you prefer depends on which one you like the looks of more. If you do want to go with barbed fittings without clamps, you can get 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" barbs. The tubing will never come off though, you would have to cut it if you want to get the tubing off.

As for radiators, as I said, I would not go with an ultra-low FPI radiator with Gentle Typhoons, it's simply a waste of the Gentle Typhoon's capabilities. Go with something with at least medium-high FPI (12 FPI or higher). FPI makes a much bigger difference in cooling capabilities than thickness does.

Here's a thought: you can try using a GTS 420 with 120-140mm fan adapters on it. The fan adapters will also act as shrouds, improving performance. And a 420 (3x140) surface area is similar to that of a 480 (4x120). I am planning on doing that with my system once my 2150 RPM Gentle Typhoons get in.
 
I thought about going the 7/16" route however I still hear people having issues, however, the barbs are, in my opinion, better looking without the clamps. Personally I could care less if I have to cut the tubing off. Tubing is cheap and I'm sure I'll replace the tubing at least once a year. I just think its absolutely ridiculous that a standard compression fitting costs $8-$10 each. We'll see if I'm ready to shell out another couple hundred just for fittings...lol.

I really appreciate all the feedback.
 
TechSoldier said:
I thought about going the 7/16" route however I still hear people having issues, however, the barbs are, in my opinion, better looking without the clamps. Personally I could care less if I have to cut the tubing off. Tubing is cheap and I'm sure I'll replace the tubing at least once a year. I just think its absolutely ridiculous that a standard compression fitting costs $8-$10 each. We'll see if I'm ready to shell out another couple hundred just for fittings...lol.

I really appreciate all the feedback.
Click to expand...

I ran 7/16" tubing over 1/2 barbs with no clamps for 3 years in one rig. Never had a single leak. The tubing is not going to come off by itself. It's almost impossible to remove the tubing without cutting.

I've had great luck buying used fittings. I picked up ten 1/2 ID 3/4 OD BP compression fittings for $20 on ebay. The only wear item on them (besides abuse to the threads) is really the o-ring, which can easily be replaced.

People get into this hobby, piss away a ton of money, then decide they're not interested in it. They often want to sell quickly, so you can score some great deals on used but great condition gear. I'd avoid used radiators and pumps though, those are probably the most fragile items in a WC loop.
 
I guess I'll roll the dice and go with 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing just because i love how clean it looks.

Just curious but will flow be restricted much by going with smaller tubing?
 
TechSoldier said:
I guess I'll roll the dice and go with 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing just because i love how clean it looks.

Just curious but will flow be restricted much by going with smaller tubing?
Click to expand...

Negligible. 1/2" and 3/8" have nearly the exact same flow rates, so you can infer that 7/16" (right between 1/2" and 3/8") would have similar flow rates as well.

You know, you can read horror stories about just about anything. However, most of the time I find that it was some sort of user error somewhere. As long as you take proper precautions, you shouldn't have any trouble at all.
 
That's good news. What size tubing do you think is on this build:
murderbox-02.jpg
 
That looks like 7/16 ID on 1/2 barbs, it's the most logical one. With a stretch, it could be 3/8" ID, although that's practically impossible to get on. Go for the one with the larger OD, since it'll give you better turning radius.
 
TechSoldier said:
I guess I'll roll the dice and go with 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing just because i love how clean it looks.

Just curious but will flow be restricted much by going with smaller tubing?
Click to expand...

I suggest heating the end of the tubing up in boiling hot water before inserting it onto the barbs. Makes things so much easier.

I don't really see how anyone could have any real issues though with 7/16" on 1/2" barbs. It's such a tight seal. I suppose the difficulty in putting the tubing on might cause someone to try to twist and wiggle the tubbing on, thereby loosening their barbs. Heating the tubing solves that potential problem.
 
TechSoldier said:
Ok so this is what I'm looking to get:

Clear:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=24501

Black:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=24502
Click to expand...

Get it from Amazon. Shipping is free.

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Bla...LFLI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1315682427&sr=8-6

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Cle...C6DM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1315682427&sr=8-9


I personally got tired of the way clear tubing looks in my loop, it's very photogenic but not as good looking in person. I think black looks better.
 
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