Need a Recommendation on a H2O setup for Dual NV6800 GT's (SLI) and an AMD FX-55

Josh_Hayes

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
Messages
277
System Components:
Code:
Lian-Li PC7077B full-tower case
OCZ Powerstream 520watt power supply
Asus A8N-SLI Socket-939 motherboard
AMD Athlon FX-55 CPU
1GB OCZ PC3200 Platinum Rev2 memory
2 BFG Nvidia 6800 GT PCI-E graphics cards
SoundBlaster Audigy 2 sound card
Western Digital 74GB Raptor hard drive
Plextor Premium CD-RW drive


PC7077Ba.png
PC7077Bc.png


This case features one 120mm exhaust port on the back and one 120mm intake port on the front.

I am planning on using the back port for one of the radiators and I plan on drilling another port on the top of the case for the other.

My Plan:
H2OCase.png


Two independent loops, one for CPU and Chipset and one for both GPU's.

The pumps will be hung upside-down from the roof of the case (Is this okay for the pumps?). There will be a T-line up at the top between the pumps and radiators leading to a Fillport in the top of the case. Fans will be attached to the radiators using 1" shrouds and will be pulling air through the radiators and exhausting it outside. I will eventually add fans to the inner-side of the radiators once I can find another source for Globe fans. I will be using 1/2" ID tubing throughout.

Watercooling Components:
Code:
Danger Den TDX CPU block - brass top - #4 nozzle	$  61.94
Danger Den Maze4 GPU block - brass top (2)		$ 102.90
Danger Den Maze4 Chipset block - brass top		$  38.50
AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12-T pump (2)				$ 178.30
Black Ice Pro radiator and shroud (2)			$  99.00
Danger Den fillport for T-line (2)			$  23.90
Polypropylene T-connector (2)				$   2.00
HydrX coolant (2)					$   6.58
30 black plastic tubing clamps				$  15.00
10 feet of Tygon R3603 1/2" ID - 11/16" OD tubing	$  20.50
Total before shipping					$ 548.62

I plan on running two independent loops in the following configuration:

Code:
Loop 1

+<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<+
|                                      |
|   Res    Pump   Rad    CPU    Chps   |
|   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   |
+>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>+
    +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+


Loop 2

    +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+
+>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>=  =>>>+
|   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   +--+   |
|   Res    Pump   Rad    GPU1   GPU2   |
|                                      |
+<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<+

This will be my first attempt at watercooling. Please let me know if there are any changes I need to make as I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Also let me know if I've forgotten anything.

Thanks for the help!

-Josh
 
Well you made a good selection with that GPU cooler... I got 2 of the NV68 blocks only to find that there isn't clearance to route the hoses on the 2nd card :(

The case looks outstanding... plenty of room for ventilation and pumps, hoses, etc. As a matter of fact I may look into getting one of those my self. Your diagram looks solid to me. good luck
 
Solutions said:
Well you made a good selection with that GPU cooler... I got 2 of the NV68 blocks only to find that there isn't clearance to route the hoses on the 2nd card :(

The case looks outstanding... plenty of room for ventilation and pumps, hoses, etc. As a matter of fact I may look into getting one of those my self. Your diagram looks solid to me. good luck

Good News!

I found out this case has a 120mm blowhole in the top of the case! Its not in the specs or on the pics!

PC-7077BTopsm.jpg


Saves me $40 in modding hardware! :D
 
Shouldn't be something you have to worry about to much.
Alienware runs SLIed Ultras and FX-55s with just a stock koolance case.
 
**Hopefully Final Selections**

My case : Lian-Li PC-7077B

PC7077Bb.png


My plan:

h2o.jpg


Watercooling Components:
Code:
Swiftech [URL=http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcforamk8a.html]MCW6002[/URL] CPU Waterblock
2 x Danger Den [URL=http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=153&cat=48&page=1]Maze4[/URL] GPU Waterblocks with Brass tops
Danger Den [URL=http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=157&cat=46&page=1]Maze4[/URL] Chipset Waterblock with Brass top
2 x D-Tek [URL=http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=103]Pro-120[/URL] HeaterCore with Shroud
2 x Fan [URL=http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=117]Shrouds[/URL] for read of Heatercore
2 x [URL=http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=66&cat=34&page=1]Y-Connectors[/URL] for GPU loop
2 x 5 1/4" Bay [URL=http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=51&cat=6&page=1]Reservoir[/URL] 
2 x AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12-T [URL=http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AQX-50Z-DC12-T-Barbs&Category_Code=DC-Pump]Pumps[/URL] 
30 black plastic tubing [URL=http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=APHC&Category_Code=TAF]Clamps[/URL] 
15 feet of Tygon R3603 1/2" ID - 11/16" OD Tubing
2 x 2oz Bottles of [URL=http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hyexduco.html]HydrX[/URL] Additive
Questions:

1. Are brass tops recommend over Acetal ones? Why?

2. Will 15 feet of tubing be sufficient for my setup?

3. Will 2 x 2oz bottles of HydrX be enough for two loops?

4. Am I missing anything?

5. Can you see any problems with my final selections?
 
get rid of the chipset block. Chipsets on Athlon64 platforms dont need watercooling, and all it does it add more tubing and another block to your setup.

Acetal tops have no advantage over brass and vice versa, it is all about looks. Also, Danger Den has two versions of the maze4, one that is smaller for SLi uses and one that is a bit bigger.
 
What do you guys think about mounting radiators to the back and high in the case? I was wondering about doing that for my setup but opted instead to place the rad to the front and low.

Reason being;
the case only has 3 fans (rear exhaust, psu exhaust and a blow hole ontop) all picked to produce low noise but also equals to low RPM/CFM and I had a perfect spot in back high for the rad but thinking it wouldn't give optimal performance in that position due to all that hot air concentrated kinda. Instead placing it in front and low, seeing as my pc sits a inch or 2 off the ground, would be best. Think is I can't use a second HD tray with it infront so I have to take up 5" for my raid which takes away to bay i would've mounted my 5" bay res.


Does it even matter, are we talking 1 or 2 degree difference or something more cevere?
Guess I can get some more tubing and re-arrange stuff and see for myself
 
I have my radiators at the top and back of the case. Just seems to me that if heat rises then it will "collect" a little more around the radiators if they are in those spots... I doubt it makes too much difference but every little bit can help.

As far as Acetal vs Brass topped blocks:
The Acetal has a greater chance of cracking vs the brass.
The Brass top has more resistance to corrosion than the Acetal.
I imagine that the Brass weighs more (more strain on the CPU socket/PCB?)
The Acetal will probably look much better when using Cathodes/Neon lighting.
 
dude, you cant place your pumps at the top of the system, the water in the tubes will cavitate (bubbles) and you will waste your pump, plus there will be serious loss in heat transfere when there are bubbles in the tubes
 
Solutions said:
I have my radiators at the top and back of the case. Just seems to me that if heat rises then it will "collect" a little more around the radiators if they are in those spots... I doubt it makes too much difference but every little bit can help.

As far as Acetal vs Brass topped blocks:
The Acetal has a greater chance of cracking vs the brass.
The Brass top has more resistance to corrosion than the Acetal.
I imagine that the Brass weighs more (more strain on the CPU socket/PCB?)
The Acetal will probably look much better when using Cathodes/Neon lighting.
acetatel, delrin is a plastic how much can corrosion affect it? or how much can it creat it?
apart from looks i would go with brass.
 
I keep going back and forth between quiet and absolute performance... I think in the end as long as I get good performance and low noise I'd be happy.

I hate not being able to make a decision! :mad:

How about this?

2 x Danger Den Maze4 GPU blocks (acetal top)
Danger Den DDC-12V pump with 3/8" OD fittings
Black Ice Pro Radiator with 3/8" OD fittings
5 1/4" Bay Reservoir with 3/8" OD fittings
10 Plastic Snap Tubing Clamps
Thermalright XP-120 CPU Heatsink
Swiftech MCX159-A Chipset Heatsink
120mm Radiator 1" Shroud
15 feet of Tygon R3603 3/8" ID - 9/16" OD tubing
HydrX coolant

I suppose I could add another radiator into the loop on the back fan, but I'd like to keep it simple.
 
You might want to consider using Koolance coolers with your DIY system. The CPU-300 series will dissipate about 300 watts, which is considerably more than you got coming out of your CPU. It has good turbulence, a high surface area, and it's gold plated over a copper core. It comes in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" internal tubing sizes. You can get them direct from Koolance or you can get them from a local distributor.

If you go here you can see some pics of a SLI setup using Koolance coolers. On the ASUS A8N-SLI board you will have trouble getting any cooler besides the Koolance GPU-180 series in there due to height restrictions.
 
I just completed the first mod on my new case...

Here's something for those of you that might think my OCZ PowerStream 520 power supply wont be able to supply enough power for my rig...

PSUMod2.jpg
PSUMod5sm.jpg


I just added my PC Power and Cooling Silencer 400 ATX power supply as an internal secondary PSU. I gutted an old DVD-ROM and reinforced the interior of the housing. I then drilled holes in the side of the PSU and the top of the DVD-ROM. I have three threaded bolts with rubber grommits holding it in place. The mounting is solid as a rock, its not going anywhere! :D

I'm planning on running the power cable out one of the PCI bracket slots or out the bottom or back of the case.

-Josh
 
Damn that is a nice case...

Just a fyi, I might go with 2 120mm heater cores, a single dual 120, or perhaps even 2 dual 120mm heater cores if you can fit them. You have to realize that 2 gpus will introduce a lot of heat into your system. These things dissipate heat much better than BIX's, at least last I checked. They are also a LOT cheaper.

Also, for a comparison and to give you an idea between a single 120mm radiator with 2 120 mm fans and a dual 120 with 2 fans, here is some info for ya:

I got a new case and went from an external dual 120 setup to a single 120 internal setup. No changes in hardware. My case is a Thermaltake Tsunami, which has excellent cooling with the dual 120mm fans in the front and back, and a 92mm on the side. I figured this would help keep my temps low even though I went down from a dual 120 to a single 120.

I was wrong. My idle temps went from 31 C to about 36 C, and load from about 38 C to 44 C. Keep in mind that this is with an athlon xp putting out about 91 watts (more than your avg a64) and a geforce 6800 GT overclocked (not sure about heat there). Nevertheless, I would suggest, for your system, 2 120mm radiators at minimum. I would actually go with 2 dual 120mm radiators since it really looks like you have the space.

Just my .02.
 
Top Nurse said:
You might want to consider using Koolance coolers with your DIY system. The CPU-300 series will dissipate about 300 watts, which is considerably more than you got coming out of your CPU. It has good turbulence, a high surface area, and it's gold plated over a copper core. It comes in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" internal tubing sizes. You can get them direct from Koolance or you can get them from a local distributor.

If you go here you can see some pics of a SLI setup using Koolance coolers. On the ASUS A8N-SLI board you will have trouble getting any cooler besides the Koolance GPU-180 series in there due to height restrictions.

The koolance coolers are actually kind of middle of the road performance wise...quoting numbers like capable of cooling 300W is kind of pointless, the performance of the 300-v10 is only slightly better than the greatly outdated mcw-5000 and maze-4 blocks. You would be better off getting the swiftech 6000 or tdx blocks.
 
ARGH! Decisions, Decisions...

Here's another setup... I can't decide... I think this might be it unless someone sees a problem with it:

50Z-MCW6002-2Maze4-2BIP.jpg


These radiators are low resistance, I'm pressed for room, and you guys think that a single radiator isn't going to be enough. So Im thinking about using two Black Ice Pro radiators on a single loop using a MCP600/50z Pump to cool the CPU and both GPU's.

Please tell me there are no problems with this setup... I want to buy! :D
 
that setup seems fine, some people will tell you that you have too many things in series and it will hurt the flow. That isn't necessarily the case in your setup. All of your blocks have a fairly low resistance, the radiators have a fairly low resistance as well, and the pump has good head pressure. Also the swifty block performs very well under a bit lower flow, whereas some blocks just need that extra flow to perform well. Setup looks fine to me.
 
seems to me you would want to come from rad1 to the cpu.. then to rad2.. and then down to the gpus

on a side note.. be carefull ordering from the dangerden store.. their customer support is horrible.. and they tottaly screwed up shipping my recent order.. have a look at their recent reseller ratings comments.. consider someone like directron for DD stuff if you can..
 
(7\) said:
seems to me you would want to come from rad1 to the cpu.. then to rad2.. and then down to the gpus..

Actually the way you have it now is preferrable, less tubing, dont worry about the water being hotter going into the CPU, it will not be much hotter at all as a result of the vid cards...that is a common misconception.
 
The koolance coolers are actually kind of middle of the road performance wise...quoting numbers like capable of cooling 300W is kind of pointless, the performance of the 300-v10 is only slightly better than the greatly outdated mcw-5000 and maze-4 blocks. You would be better off getting the swiftech 6000 or tdx blocks.

According to who? The only reviews/tests I have seen are ones that compare a particular "system" to another "system." IIRC, their was one test done that compared the CPU-300-V10 block to other blocks and it was a very good performer when mated to a typical DIY system. The Koolance coolers have it all going for them in many respects. Copper base material with gold plating to eliminate dissimilar metal problems and increase thermal transference, high turbulence, and an extremely high surface area to water ratio. And I could use the CPU surface to put my eyeliner on as it looks like a mirror :D

One of the things I am doing on my new rig is to add Innovatek thermocouple sensors to monitor in-the-coolant temperature at several places in my rig. Bigger is not better...a well engineered setup always runs better than a system that is thrown together based on "common knowledge." IOW, if enough people say it is then it must be....right? ;)
 
Well I finally committed and went ahead and ordered the following parts for this setup:

50Z-MCW6002-2Maze4-2BIP.jpg


www.sidewindercomputers.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swiftech MCW6002 CPU Waterblock $ 45.00
Swiftech MCX159 Chipset Heatsink $ 32.95
2 x Black Ice Pro Radiators with 1/2" barbs $ 81.90
4 x Radiator Shrouds $ 35.80
Swiftech 5 1/4" Reservoir with 1/2" barbs $ 18.95
10 feet of Tygon R3603 1/2" ID - 11/16" OD tubing $ 20.50
HydrX Algicide and Anit-Corrisive Additive $ 3.29
4 x 80mm Fan Guards $ 7.80
120mm Fan Guard $ 1.95
20 Black Fan Screws $ 1.25
Shipping $ 13.00
Subtotal $ 262.39

www.cooltechnica.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 Waterpump $ 79.00
20 black plastic tubing clamps $ 10.00
Shipping $ 10.45
Total $ 99.45

www.dangerdenstore.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 x Danger Den Maze4 GPU Waterblocks (Acetal) $ 92.90
Shipping $ 9.65
Total $ 102.55

Grand Total $ 464.39

I'll take some pics and update the thread as they arrive and I install them. :D
 
Top Nurse said:
According to who? The only reviews/tests I have seen are ones that compare a particular "system" to another "system." IIRC, their was one test done that compared the CPU-300-V10 block to other blocks and it was a very good performer when mated to a typical DIY system. The Koolance coolers have it all going for them in many respects. Copper base material with gold plating to eliminate dissimilar metal problems and increase thermal transference, high turbulence, and an extremely high surface area to water ratio. And I could use the CPU surface to put my eyeliner on as it looks like a mirror :D

One of the things I am doing on my new rig is to add Innovatek thermocouple sensors to monitor in-the-coolant temperature at several places in my rig. Bigger is not better...a well engineered setup always runs better than a system that is thrown together based on "common knowledge." IOW, if enough people say it is then it must be....right? ;)

http://www.viperlair.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/koolance/blocks/cpu300/p2.shtml

That review compared the koolance cooler in an identical setup with a number of other blocks, and it only did about 2C better than the 5000, comparing that to other comprehensive waterblock roundups like the ones at www.procooling.com places the koolance middle of the road, but lower than the 6000 and TDX.

Granted, I would love to see a more thorough review that actually plots the C/W vs. Flow like places like Procooling and Systemcooling do, but alas they have not reviewed the block so I cant say how much the block would benefit from increased flow (the pump used in that test was just a hydor l20)

I am not saying that the koolance block is a pos, merely that it is simply another middle of the road block....hardly the end all and be all of water blocks.
 
with the money your spending you should probably get a second pump. also you have alot of distance between the pump and the top of your case. it doesn't help that your moving it through a couple diffent things on top of that. try and keep the components as close together as possible so the pump doesn't have as much water to push upwards. also try if you can to keep the reservoir as high as possible over the pump because that will help push the water down to the pump thereby speeding up waterflow. The big problem you will have with your setup is flow. you may just wanna consider having the gfx cards on a sepperate cooling system. Take one of the rads and get another pump and reservoir and devote them to the gfx cards cus they will run hotter than your proccesor will. That will probably lower your cpu temps too.
 
umbra said:
with the money your spending you should probably get a second pump. also you have alot of distance between the pump and the top of your case. it doesn't help that your moving it through a couple diffent things on top of that. try and keep the components as close together as possible so the pump doesn't have as much water to push upwards. also try if you can to keep the reservoir as high as possible over the pump because that will help push the water down to the pump thereby speeding up waterflow. The big problem you will have with your setup is flow. you may just wanna consider having the gfx cards on a sepperate cooling system. Take one of the rads and get another pump and reservoir and devote them to the gfx cards cus they will run hotter than your proccesor will. That will probably lower your cpu temps too.

umbra : In a closed loop the height doesn't matter at all, any work done moving the water up to the top of the loop (work against gravity that is) is negated by the water falling back down on the other end. The only thing in a closed loop to worry about is the restriction of the components. Closed loop = gravity doesn't matter. Also, as long as the resevoir is above the pump you are fine, it doesn't matter how far above, and the only reason you want it above the pump is for filling/bleeding.

Now that being said, you will see better temperatures by using two loops, but it may not be necessary, it depends how low you want your temperatures to be.
 
I took the chipset out of the loop (I'm aircooling it with MCX159) and figured two radiators sharing 300watts (complete guess) would be better than one for 100watts and one for 200watts...
 
Thats going to be a nice setup. Couple things though. Your second psu is probably not needed unless you go with 2 pumps and 2 loops and even then would be questionable. You may run into clearance issues with your res and top rad. It might be better to have it a bit lower. I have a similar setup as you as far as components go. The AQX pump is a great pump but my flow was really affected when I added my second 120mm rad. You have one extra block on your loop as me so your flow will be affected even more. You might wanna consider that extra pump.

Have fun putting it together and keep us updated.
 
I was following your thread on procooling.com, I was actually one of the first posters on it. :cool:

I'm glad to see you finally got it all going, I bet that thing is smoother than teflon in games. :p
 
Well my parts have arrived... Now I just have to go get plumbers tape and the motivation to install all this stuff.

50zasm.jpg
BIPasm.jpg

BIPbsm.jpg
MCW6002asm.jpg

MCW6002bsm.jpg
DDMaze4asm.jpg

DDMaze4bsm.jpg
MCX159sm.jpg

*sorry for the bad pics...

Any tips or suggestions before installing my first watercooling system?
 
Maybe... I'd suggest lapping the cpu block to make it a lot shinier. If I am correct (from what i've heard), it should increas the blocks ability to dissapiate heat. Yes its time consuming but i'm told the efforts are worth it. Other then that, i'd say your one lucky son of a bitch =). I am gonna be ordering a DD setup soon as well.
 
Thanks for saying where you bought your parts and how much they cost, and for the clear diagrams. This thread kicks ass, and I hope your first WCing experience goes well. I'm about to try it, too. :)

Does anyone know if the PC-V2000B has a place on the top for a 120mm rad/fan? (not the back/side)
 
I installed the MCX159 on the chipset, removed the secondary PSU, and cleaned up the wiring a little...

Inside3sm.jpg


ChipsetInssm.jpg
 
wow that's a lot of tubing.

are you going to OC it any when your leak testing is done?
 
DryFire said:
1. That's a lot of tubing
2. Are you going to OC it any when your leak testing is done?

1. Yeah, a lot of components to cool and two radiators...
2. That's the plan :D
 
WOW this water cooling rig turned out a lot better than I anticipated. I was like two radiators why not just do a single radiator but it turned out really nice how you cool the CPU and one gpu then cool the water a little bit for the second gpu.
 
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