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"native 24-pin" vs. "20+4"?

Xylo

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
421
I have a PSU (I'll leave the brand out of it for now) that has a 20pin power connector and the additional 4pin also...but lately I've read some people decrying these in favor of so called "native" 24pin PSUs...can someone tell me the difference?

Thanks.
Xylo
 
Xylo said:
I have a PSU (I'll leave the brand out of it for now) that has a 20pin power connector and the additional 4pin also...but lately I've read some people decrying these in favor of so called "native" 24pin PSUs...can someone tell me the difference?

Thanks.
Xylo
The modular 20+4 is native 24-pin. ;)
 
Yeah. What Dave said.

Just because your 4-pin "detaches" doesn't make it less of a PSU.

The problem people bitch about is when you run 20-pins through an adapter that splits off one ground, one 12V, one 5V and one 3V to creat the extra four pins.

This causes resistance problems on many levels.

1. With smaller gage wire, more amperage is more resistance. The longer the wire, the more resistance too. If the split is in the PSU or even at the PSU (like in the case of some modulars) then the problem isn't so bad because the longer run of wire is carrying less amperage, but if you split it off two inches from the mobo... well... ;)

2. The resistance created by the interface itself. Connector pins aren't perfect. They don't always mate perfectly and can corrode, etc. So resistance can be added simply by the plug. You've got enough "plugs." Keep it to a minimum. ;)
 
Ok, but what if it's not something that "breaks off", necessarily...like the PC P&C Turbo-Cool 510 Deluxe (not the "SLI")?
 
Are you thinking of the 4-pin connection used for CPU power? What color are the wires on your 4-pin connection?
 
Xylo said:
Ok, but what if it's not something that "breaks off", necessarily...like the PC P&C Turbo-Cool 510 Deluxe (not the "SLI")?
Yeah, i have the 20 pin versinon of that too. It won't have any problems on an SLI board if I buy the 24 pin converter, will it?
 
aug1516 said:
Are you thinking of the 4-pin connection used for CPU power? What color are the wires on your 4-pin connection?

No...thinking of some sort of converter?...I guess I mispoke when I said it was 20+4...it's not...it's 20, and then the normal atx12v 4 pin as well...and I have a DFI board... :(
 
Ok. The normal 12V connector is just 2 12V's and 2 grounds.

The extra four pins on a 24-pin connector is a ground, 3.3V, 5V and 12V.

So the answer would be, "no." The 2x2 12V connector can't compensate for the lack of juice on the ATX connector.

Any other motherboard and you could get away with just plugging in 20 of the 24 pins. But since it's a DFI, you better get an adapter.
 
Actually, DFI won't even support/warranty an adapted PSU. Send it back to PCP&C, and they'll redo that supply properly for like $20 or something. You can also have the extra PCI-E line added at that time, customize SATA, sleeved, etc. The PSU's cost a lot, but they'll keep you using them in the long run for a pretty good price.
 
Kil4Thril said:
Actually, DFI won't even support/warranty an adapted PSU. Send it back to PCP&C, and they'll redo that supply properly for like $20 or something. You can also have the extra PCI-E line added at that time, customize SATA, sleeved, etc. The PSU's cost a lot, but they'll keep you using them in the long run for a pretty good price.

1) How would DFI even know?...it's not like I'm going to send them my entire system if the board dies.

2) as for sending it to PC P&C...sigh...maybe...



Can someone tell me what the difference would be between a "properly redone" PSU with a 24pin connector, and just using a 20-pin to 24-pin adapter??....

Thanks...
 
Resistance.

If you use the adapter and it works, great. Who cares what DFI thinks.

If it doesn't work, sending the PSU to PCP&C for a bit of a rework is an EXCELLENT idea.
 
The 12V and 3V rails are adjustable....so the resistance shouldn't be a major problem....but that's the only issue?...there's nothing more "to be said" for 24-pin vs. 20pin + adapter?
 
Turns out the re-work on the PSU from PC P&C would run $70... (!)

For that price, I can sell the thing, buy a Seasonic 600 or something else, and save $70... :/
Not sure what I'm going to do yet.
 
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