Name This Connector (APC UPS repair)

U

unholythree

Limp Gawd
Joined
Sep 23, 2011
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I got a non-working second hand APC BE350R UPS a few days ago. The unit beeps and flashes the dead battery signal, but my multimeter says otherwise; however none of the outlets on the battery backup side work.

So I took it apart and found this:
syBUL.jpg

ppB22.jpg


I suspect the last user was drawing way too much power from the backup outlets and when it switched to battery the wire and connector burnt.

Fortunately the PCB looks fine:
M3e2Lh.jpg


So, I gotta get a new connector. But what type, and where can I buy one?

Radio Shack was a no go.
 
It does look similar, I'll have to check the pin spacing when I get home. I think floppy connectors use round pins and have no clip on the side, but it might work in a pinch.

edited, you might be on to something...
 
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I've measured the connector and it's noticeably larger than a floppy power connector; about 5/8" compared to 1/2". The wiring is clearly heavier too: AWG 18.

edited: I suspect I need a 4 pin 3.96mm housing, unfortunately I have no way to take an accurate measurement . Now I just need try and match one that fits the PBC header, or change out the header as well.
 
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If everything else checked out and that cosmetic is all that is wrong with it then just skip the connector. Solder the wires directly to the PCB. My understanding of this device is that this connection doesn't need to be plugged and unplugged on a daily/weekly basis.
 
Some sort of molex... I've sometimes had luck browsing a Digikey or Mouser catalog and looking for the right thing visually. Other option is to solder the wires directly if you can't find the right plug.
 
Yeah it could be a "backwards hat on a donkey mark 8" connector, why does it matter? You pay more for the connector than the entire device (it was free, wasn't it?).
 
Invest in finding the correct connector, theres a reason why it's there and why the PCB wasn't damaged during a fault.
 
No idea what that is.

Take it to your local electronics store see if they have a replacement parts in stock.
Its very likely you will have to do some soldering or splicing to fix the cable.

As Auzner said it very well might not be worth it cost wise.

Some parts can only be ordered from a manufacture, and they will make it cost at least 40 bucks at minimum to get the part.
 
Firebug24k said:
Some sort of molex... I've sometimes had luck browsing a Digikey or Mouser catalog and looking for the right thing visually.
Click to expand...

This is what I would do. Go looking at 100s of pictures at digikey or mouser to find the one that matches..
 
Chrisroman said:
Invest in finding the correct connector, theres a reason why it's there and why the PCB wasn't damaged during a fault.
Click to expand...

My thought exactly.

thedocta45 said:
No idea what that is.

Take it to your local electronics store see if they have a replacement parts in stock.
Its very likely you will have to do some soldering or splicing to fix the cable.

As Auzner said it very well might not be worth it cost wise.

Some parts can only be ordered from a manufacture, and they will make it cost at least 40 bucks at minimum to get the part.
Click to expand...

I suspect I need this: http://www.waldomkits.com/Molex/Part-Number/35977-0400/

It's available in a couple of kits for ~ $15 + shipping, or maybe I could find it on eBay.

I'm going to swing by a local shop to get a second opinion first.

Edit:

18¢ here: http://www.galco.com/buy/Molex/35977-0400 but $12 shipping...
 
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I would expect the connector you want will cost $2 US or less. I am unsure why these are $15 to $20.

Edit: That is a 175 pack..


BTW. While you are at it, I would also replace the male connector as well.
 
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So following the advice on this thread (thanks everyone) I ordered a connector kit from Digi-Key found via molexkits:

723Rr.jpg


and they are a perfect fit:

RMteF.jpg

8LXv9.jpg


Auzner said:
HP ram for HP laptop and Dell ram for Dell laptop. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Brand label wasn't important to me, but matching the pin spacing and the rated current was.
What I needed was a 4 circuit connector with a 3.96mm pitch for 18 AWG wire. Molex's MV-396 series matched the spec and is rated to 7 Amp; which I assume is enough.

Now I need to decide if it's worth the effort to replace the PCB header. I don't know how without risking damage to the board.
 
unholythree said:
Now I need to decide if it's worth the effort to replace the PCB header. I don't know how without risking damage to the board.
Click to expand...

Should just be a case of warm up each pin and suck the solder away, then quickly warm up what is left and pull the connector off with pliers or something. Shouldn't be to hard, unless it is lead free solder, in which case you will need a bit more powerful soldering iron as the solder melts at a higher temperature.
 
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