n00b's ideas on a 3/8" system. Comments?

[Ghent915]

Hey guys. I'm a long time reader, and occasional poster (when I get a wild idea or two).

Anyways, I'm wanting to sink some of my ill-gotten gains selling crappy computers to people down at Circuit City into a good watercooling rig. (Just b/c I sell shitty comps, doesn't mean I have to USE shitty comps...heh).

Below are my ideas for the system. I'm hoping all the hardcore watercooling gurus such as Cathar and TopNurse will see fit to contribute their learning to this thread. If any of my ideas seem wierd, unhappy in combination, or just WRONG, please, feel free to correct me.

Case: CoolerMaster Praetorian (I can't find the ATC version...this is just about as good)

Rad: Black Ice Xtreme II (120X2) (Chrome depending on finances just for the sheer bling factor)

Pump: MCP350, or CSP-Mag (still unsure...heard good about both. Remember, 3/8" system)

CPU Block: Dangerden TDX (Still very iffy on the block...ideas?)

GPU: None (Figure 2 600gt's once I go SLi)

Res: Aquatube, Aquamount

Tubing: Tygon

Misc: Aqua Evo 120.2 grille
CLEAR fluid additive (Suggestions?)
Compression fittings where I can use them (I'm a wee bit paranoid)

Hopefully I'm not missing anything in this list. I know this will be on the $$$ side of things, but I belive that spending the good money the first time will prevent you from nickle and dime'ing yourself to death in the long run.

Thanks for the advice, in advance
-Ghent

 

[ikellensbro]

a 3/8" loop will still perform very well, however you may want to try Cathar's recommendation of using 1/2" components with 7/16"id tubing. One big problem with 1/2"id tubing is that with 1/8" walls, you get 3/4" effective tubing that you need to route in your loop. You can simply use 7/16"id tubing that will slip over 1/2" barbs, but still be just as easy to route as normal 3/8" tubing as you can get by with slightly thinner (3/32") walls thatn 1/2", resulting in a 5/8"od. Then again, if you want to just use 3/8" tubing and be done with it, then go ahead.

Your component selection should work very well, but there are a couple changes that could be made:
Swiftech 6002 (or 6000 for 3/8") instead of TDX, better performance for less $, especially at lower flow rates.
If you want to do less modding to fit a dual rad in your case, then look at a larger case than the Praetorian, although if you can fit your rad in the top, then go ahead, otherwise, a case with a 120mm intake/120mm exhaust is a lot smarter than a 2 80mm intake/2 80mm exhaust case. Then again, if youre ok with 80mms and like the look, go for it.
Not too many people have tried the new CSP-Mag, but it would help to get a larger user knowledge base with it. The new Laing D5 is nearly as quiet as the DDC, but has higher flow and is just about the same price.
Remember that BIX are designed for louder, high cfm fans, while BIP are made for quieter but less cfm fans. A BIP2 will also be much less than a BIX2, but then again you could just buy & mod a 1977 Bonneville heater core or buy one premodded by 2fresh.
The practical goal of additives are to stop nasties from gowing in your loop, and if there are different metals, tostop corrosion. As long as you get all copper (brass barbs are ok) components, you wont have to worry about corrosion. For stopping algae buildup, use a biocide, whether its for pools (not chlorine), bleach, etc. Many will give a UV glow or dye the water, but if you use a straight biocide, you should still have clear fluid. Remember to use distilled h2o, not tap water no matter how clean it is!

Sorry Im not a "hardcore watercooling guru", but hopefully I didnt just type all that for nothing

 

[Cathar]

well ikellinsbro pretty much answered it all.

Nothing wrong with 3/8" ID tubing so long as the system is designed around it. Let's stick with your desire to use 3/8" ID tubing and work with that.

Given the pump and tubing selection, def. go with the Swiftech MCW6000 block over the TDX.

The MAG pump is a little quieter than the MCP350, but not by a large amount. The MCP350 would be the better pump to use with 3/8" ID tubing though as it's stronger for this application, and comes with 3/8" barbs already on it. Given that choice, I would go with the MCP350.

I too would go with the Black Ice Pro II radiator, just for the noise-vs-performance factor in comparison to the Black Ice Xtreme model.

Grab some nice Yate-Loon fans to stick on the BIP2, and you're ready to rock.

That's going to be a nice straight-forward, fairly quiet, reasonably inexpensive and well-performing setup.

 

[Ghent915]

Thanks so much for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

As for the block, is there anything that would be comparable to the swiftech in cooling ability, but with a little better asthetics. My primary goal is to cool, but having a system that looks nice is important to me as well.

Thanks again
-Ghent

 

[Erasmus354]

The TDX is close in performance to the Swifty block. Also if you change the pump to the D5 instead of the DDC you would probably get better performance with the TDX than with the Swifty. Either way if you like the looks of the TDX better you wont be losing too much by using that instead of the Swifty and sticking with the DDC and 3/8" setup (A few C tops is my guess).

 

[Top Nurse]

Thanks so much for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

As for the block, is there anything that would be comparable to the swiftech in cooling ability, but with a little better asthetics. My primary goal is to cool, but having a system that looks nice is important to me as well.

Well on asthetics a comparable cooler would be either the Cuplex Pro which arrived today in the USA (approximately $65 or so) or the Cuplex XT. Both coolers work well in 6mm and 8mm ID hose and work better with 3/8 hose. For the bling factor I would suggest either the Aquastream v 3.5 pump which gives you 1046 to 1048 flow and also bolts right up to the AquaBay if you are going with a horizontal Aquatube. The Laing DDC pump with an Alphacool DDC plexi top makes for some interesting possibilities. You can ditch the hose barb top and due to it having a G 1/4 thread you can match up just about anything you might want in the way of tubing sizes. I got one of those Alphacool tops which will be here on the next Sharka shipment. You may have to drill some additional holes to mount the DDC onto the AquaBay.

The BI Pro is a good choice. A few of us A-C nutz have been playing around with the Acoustifans (German import) and they seem to move more air at 50% power than the Papst do at 12V and are dead silent. They make a few different models so you can get basic black or clear fans as well.

The use of AC Fluid when used as directed will keep your fluid clear and prevent dissimilar metal corrosion and algae growth.