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My WIP (pics!)

invalidbuffalo

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
419
It's still a WIP, but here it is so far. Currently I am in the 24 hr leak test.

wcwipno4.jpg


wiprs2kj9.jpg


You'll notice the X-fi is lit up in the second pic. Yes, I did turn my computer on for a few minutes, but i ran the pump for a while before and there were no immediate leaks.
 
D-Tek CPU block, EK GPU blocks, Laing pump, ... another great build. Looking good. Friendly advice, I'd suggest you not power up your motherboard when leak testing.
 
Nice. I'll want to see a pic when it's all put together. It looks like you're working with the same space as my lian-li pc1000v and I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to cram res, pump, 2x gpu block, 1x cpu block into it.
 
Excellent start. You have all the excellent watercooling components. I second Ranker's advice - try not to power up the mobo when leak testing.

Now clean up your cablings some more and you're set :)
 
It looks like they somehow screwed up stamping the part out but I doubt that the integrity is compromised. I wouldn't screw with it unless it just bugs you.
 
looks like you applied too much pressure to the hold down. Mine would bow if I went too far.
 
looks like you applied too much pressure to the hold down. Mine would bow if I went too far.

It's not the bowing he's talking about it's the crease next to the opening that he's concerned about and I doubt that a bit too much pressure on the hold downs would cause that crease.
 
Actually too much pressure on the corners will result in the bow and have the plate pull away from the block.
 
I still don't think that it'd put a sharp crease in the metal of the plate which is what he's pointing out. That metal's like 1/16" thick, it'd take quite a bit to crease it like that.
 
I emailed D-Tek and they're sending me a replacement plate. Meanwhile im still trying to figure out the best way to mount the radiator...

Here's more pics:
My lapped cpu in place:
casewipta9.jpg


I love how it lines up perfectly!
gpublocksjn7.jpg
 
When you get the new plate, find some way to scratch or make a white mark on the nuts used to tighten down the springs so you can count the turns. Run the all the nuts down till they just barely touch the springs when the springs are uncompressed. Then tighten in an "x" pattern, 5 turns on a nut and go to next nut. You only wnat to compress the spings 3/4 of their length, you dont want them so compressed the coils all touch and you have turned the spring into a rod. If you want to clamp harder, get some stiffer springs.

Very nice job.
 
Five turns per nut before moving to the next one? Yikes!! No more than 3/4's turn per nut before moving to the next one, five turns is a good way to screw something up.
 
I'm pretty sure I did'nt overtighten the screws. Anyways I just received a replacement plate. :)

Oh, I forgot to mention that I am getting a tanky dual 5" reservoir and will be using that instead of the micro res (look for the micro res on the for sale thread in the near future). As for lighting, I am going to throw a couple 4" CCFLs over the reservoir, and I'll play around with lighting inside the case. Since it is virtually window-less, lighting is low priority.
 
I'm pretty sure I did'nt overtighten the screws. Anyways I just received a replacement plate. :)

Oh, I forgot to mention that I am getting a tanky dual 5" reservoir and will be using that instead of the micro res (look for the micro res on the for sale thread in the near future). As for lighting, I am going to throw a couple 4" CCFLs over the reservoir, and I'll play around with lighting inside the case. Since it is virtually window-less, lighting is low priority.

Don't use this res. I'll post pics later but this thing looks great but is horrible for a bunch of reasons:

1) Acrylic. As we see in the other thread, acrylic cracks and these things are notorious for cracking due to torque on the barbs from tightening or from installing and removing tubing. I actually experienced this myself recently

2) Prone to leaks - Pentosin and other additives that contain glycol melt/eat away at the seal that glues the acrylic together.

3) This thing is a PITA to bleed, better only than the Alphacool repack. This is probably the noisest (lots of swooshing and gurgling sounds) of all the radiators as well.
 
I'm pretty sure I did'nt overtighten the screws. Anyways I just received a replacement plate. :)

Oh, I forgot to mention that I am getting a tanky dual 5" reservoir and will be using that instead of the micro res (look for the micro res on the for sale thread in the near future). As for lighting, I am going to throw a couple 4" CCFLs over the reservoir, and I'll play around with lighting inside the case. Since it is virtually window-less, lighting is low priority.

Be sure to put some lighting behind it like I did to add the "cool" effect.:)

image15.jpg
 
Don't use this res. I'll post pics later but this thing looks great but is horrible for a bunch of reasons:

1) Acrylic. As we see in the other thread, acrylic cracks and these things are notorious for cracking due to torque on the barbs from tightening or from installing and removing tubing. I actually experienced this myself recently

2) Prone to leaks - Pentosin and other additives that contain glycol melt/eat away at the seal that glues the acrylic together.

3) This thing is a PITA to bleed, better only than the Alphacool repack. This is probably the noisest (lots of swooshing and gurgling sounds) of all the radiators as well.

1. hmm. The Micro is acrylic also, and the panels are half the thickness of my tanky. The barbs on the tanky reservoir are as solid as can be. Not true of the micro.

2. I've seen absolutely no signs of bond deterioration. Edit: And I am using Pentosin.

3. An ABSOLUTE breeze to blead. 10 minutes tops. And ABOSUTELY silent.

I understand that older versions of these reservoirs were prone to some of the items you mentioned. Designs change/improve. Unfortunately, impressions do not. Edit: I'm just as guilty of that at times.:eek:
 
:eek: That's one hell of a case, with all the panels in it!

The only additive I will be using is PT Nuke, which is basically copper sulfate.
 
np.:) Just about everyone has been guilty of that.

BTW, do you like the lighting behind the reservoir?
 
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