My WC machine.

[SuShI-]

I have been thinking about buying a WC case lately and still am unsure about somethings. If you guys can suggest anything diff then the specs I will be ordering below please tell me.

Keep in mind that I have a Lian-Li 75b case with plenty of room to work with.

Copper TDX by DangerDen
Danger Den DD12V-D4 Pump
Black Ice Pro III
Tygon Tubing How much amount of tubing do I need? and is Tygon worth the extra money so the tubes wont leak?
Artic Silver 5
Aquamod (½” Compatibility Mod for Aquatube)
Danger Den Fillport <--do I need this if I have the Aqua Tube...I mean like is it to refill / deplete the system of the water cooling with the Aqua tube alone?
AquaTube Mounting Bracket for the front of my Lian-Li case.
Last but not least, AC Fluid

One more thing. As you guys might have noticed I will be going with the 1/2" fitting. And it seems that the Aqua tube only supports the 3/8".. now at SNT-Systems.com they have a mod for the 1/2" fitting, and it seems that its $20 cheaper then the normal Aqua tube? I cant seem to get this right in my mind...if you guys can tell me WHY to MODIFY its cheaper then to just buy the original reservoir?

Heres the AquaTube Revision 1.1 $69.50
And here is the Aquamod (½” Compatibility Mod for Aquatube) $46.00

Is it basically saying to get that 1/2" mod you must ADD another $46 for the Aqua tube? or is it saying that the AquaTube with the 1/2" mod will only be $46? im so lost

Thanks for your help guys.

 

[DFI Daishi]

regarding tygon: it is not any less likely to leak than another reputable tubing like, for example, clearflex 60. the tygon is a bit softer and more flexible than the clearflex, which makes it a bit easier to work with while putting things together. 10 feet seems to be what most people get. depending on how easily and quickly you can get the tubing, you might want to get some extra so that if you are sitting there and notice a better way of plumbing things a few weeks/months down the road, you have the tubing on hand to try tweaking things a bit.

regarding the fillport: you usually use a fillport and T-line if you don't have a res. it's not likely to mess anything up, but it is also not necessary. just make sure that your res is immediately before your pump's intake.

regarding your rad: it's probably overkill unless you are planning on using VERY quiet fans, in which case you will probably want to choose a different pump.

are you planning on adding VGA blocks later, or did you just forget to list them?

 

[Borgschulze]

I'm no expert on Water Cooling but you should put everything where you want it then measure where you want the tubing to go then add an extra foot for bends and extra so it's not too tight.

 

[DNA]

I have been thinking about buying a WC case lately and still am unsure about somethings. If you guys can suggest anything diff then the specs I will be ordering below please tell me.

Keep in mind that I have a Lian-Li 75b case with plenty of room to work with.

Copper TDX by DangerDen
Danger Den DD12V-D4 Pump
Black Ice Pro III
Tygon Tubing How much amount of tubing do I need? and is Tygon worth the extra money so the tubes wont leak?
Artic Silver 5
Aquamod (½” Compatibility Mod for Aquatube)
Danger Den Fillport <--do I need this if I have the Aqua Tube...I mean like is it to refill / deplete the system of the water cooling with the Aqua tube alone?
AquaTube Mounting Bracket for the front of my Lian-Li case.
Last but not least, AC Fluid

One more thing. As you guys might have noticed I will be going with the 1/2" fitting. And it seems that the Aqua tube only supports the 3/8".. now at SNT-Systems.com they have a mod for the 1/2" fitting, and it seems that its $20 cheaper then the normal Aqua tube? I cant seem to get this right in my mind...if you guys can tell me WHY to MODIFY its cheaper then to just buy the original reservoir?

Heres the AquaTube Revision 1.1 $69.50
And here is the Aquamod (½” Compatibility Mod for Aquatube) $46.00

Is it basically saying to get that 1/2" mod you must ADD another $46 for the Aqua tube? or is it saying that the AquaTube with the 1/2" mod will only be $46? im so lost

Thanks for your help guys.

The Lian Li PC 7x series is a great case for watercooling. The top inner surface will easily accomodate a 3 x 120mm radiator or a dual BIX II setup.

TDX > Storm G4
DD12V-D4 > AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12
1/2-in ID Tygon > Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing 7/16-in ID x 5/8-in OD, 10 ft. @ $0.36/ft - best bang for your $
AS5 > AS Ceramigue
Fillport/Aqua Tube > 3 1/2-in Dual Bay Reservior - it's probably dead space in a PC 75, why not use it
Black Ice Pro III > Thermochill 120.3
For the price difference, your getting far superior cooling capacity. Mount the 120.3 to the inner top case surface using the Aqua Computer Airplex Evo 360 Grill. I have one of each and the Storm if your interested. All three items are new.

 

[yang88she]

The Lian Li PC 7x series is a great case for watercooling. The top inner surface will easily accomodate a 3 x 120mm radiator or a dual BIX II setup.

TDX > Storm G4
DD12V-D4 > 50Z (Swiftech 600)
1/2-in ID Tygon > 7/16-in ID x 5/8-in OD, 10 ft. @ $0.36/ft - best bang for your $
AS5 > AS Ceramigue
Fillport/Aqua Tube > 3 1/2-in Dual Bay Res
Black Ice Pro III > Thermochill 120.3
For the price difference, your getting far superior cooling capacity. Mount the 120.3 to the inner top case surface using the Aqua Computer Airplex Evo 360 Grill. I have one of each and the Storm if your interested.

I agree w/ most, but I honestly feel that 3 1/2 in- Dual Bay Res is a lil over kill...plus T fittings w/ a fillport work just as well (I'm not going to hijack this thread into a Fillport vs Reservoir thread) just imho and experience.

also AS Ceramique? I've had better temps w/ the AS5

Storm G4 and G5 are very hard to find in fact I've been waiting on my G5 since Oct.

All n all Sushi, I think you have a nice setup, good luck keep us posted w/ pictures and reviews

 

[Top Nurse]

I would make the following changes:

Ditch your choice of pump and get a Laing DDC or it's variants. It's a better pump

Keep the Fill Port and use it with the Aquatube. It is easier to fill if you mount it horizontally and makes it much easier to top off your system. Even closed systems lose fluids over time through the tubing walls and through miniscule leaks in connections.

The Aquatube you were asking about by SNT is done by BitchBreaker and he appears to do quite good work The price for the modded tube is in addition to the price of the Aquatube. So you are looking at about $115 total for the modded tube. A less expensive alternative would be to use an Innovatek Fass-O-Matic reservoir that comes with 1/4 BSPP threads that natively support up to a 1/2" ID hose. The Fass-O-Matic also includes the mounting plate at the $77 price. However, if you are wanting to mount it horizontally I'm not sure if it would fit in an AquaBay AT. If you are going to make your own mount that would be okay. BTW, the plate you show in your list for the Aquatube is the one most people use to mount into a flat surface like the top of the case.

 

[SuShI-]

Ditch your choice of pump and get a Laing DDC or it's variants. It's a better pump

Really? I have seen many people using the pump that I suggested and I thought it would fit nicely and would go good with my design.

I was thinking something like CPU->Rad->Res->Pump->CPU-> etc etc.....and the Res would be above my pump. On my res I would use the connection on the bottom of the AquaTube so grav would help it kind of pull into the pump and thus making it flow a slight bit faster.

With the DDC it would be akward positioning etc etc etc...if I should get a DDC..might as well get a...dammit brain fart ...Nurse you know that Res where the Pump and the res are in the 5.25" bay and they are alreayd connected together. Its that one im thinking about.

Do you suggest just getting that modified Res/pump combo...or should i stick with my choice of pump with the AquaTube.

Thoughts?

 

[DFI Daishi]

the D4 pump can be a real squealer. that is why i suggested you select a different pump if you are going for a quiet system.

http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=138

i have not used it myself, but it seems to be pretty well regarded around here.

is this the DDC that you were thinking about? http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCRES-1000.asp

 

[Top Nurse]

Yes that is one of the Laing DDC rebadges. Even Aqua Computer is now selling a DDC variant though this one has a RPM sensing output. I would suggest whatever pump you get to use the Aquatube or the Fass-O-Matic style reservoirs for looks as well as functionality. If you want to see what is coming from A-C to the USA for Sharka check out this pic.

 

[SuShI-]

is this the DDC that you were thinking about? http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCRES-1000.asp

Yeah thats the one. I am starting to lean towards the Danger Den Round (Cylindrical) Reservoir. Either that or just simply get a T-line with a shut off valve so that pump doesnt have to help keep the water level up in the T-line. I saw a shut off valve that I wanted I believe it was from a website that just had diff supplies concerning tubing and stuff. But i can prolly find one at my local home depot or sumfin.

Anybody have any thoughts on good "Radeon 9800 All-in-one Wonder" VGA water blocks? I notice that there are a TON of waterblocks out there for VGAs...unfortunatly I was a genius and chose the AIW series *doh* Suggestions?

I think i'll go with my final cut of just buying everything I mentioned before with the exception of the AquaTube, changing that to the fass-o-matic or possibly get a t-line if I can find a shut off valve over here where I live. I'll post up some pics of my project under worklogs after I get all the stuff.

 

[Russ]

I was thinking something like CPU->Rad->Res->Pump->CPU-> etc etc.....and the Res would be above my pump. On my res I would use the connection on the bottom of the AquaTube so grav would help it kind of pull into the pump and thus making it flow a slight bit faster.

Thoughts?

Go Pump >> Rad >> CPU >> (optional VGA block/blocks) >> Res >> Pump

Rad just before CPU so the coolest water hits the CPU. Thats the big thing you need to change.

 

[DFI Daishi]

Yeah thats the one. I am starting to lean towards the Danger Den Round (Cylindrical) Reservoir. Either that or just simply get a T-line with a shut off valve so that pump doesnt have to help keep the water level up in the T-line. I saw a shut off valve that I wanted I believe it was from a website that just had diff supplies concerning tubing and stuff. But i can prolly find one at my local home depot or sumfin.

the pump does not push the water up into the T line, the water in the T pushes down into the pump under the effect of gravity.

when you system is full, you should have a decent height of water in the fill tube when the system is shut down. when you turn the system on, the water level should drop slightly, and bob up and down while the pump is in opperation. the bobbing of the coolant means that the T line is doing it job correctly, and feeding the pump a steady stream of water at near constant pressure. this promotes efficient and quiet pump opperation by reducing cavitation, among other things.

 

[DFI Daishi]

Go Pump >> Rad >> CPU >> (optional VGA block/blocks) >> Res >> Pump

Rad just before CPU so the coolest water hits the CPU. Thats the big thing you need to change.

temperature change across any one block in the loop, in this type of system, is so small that the order that the blocks are in doesn't really matter, and he could really do whatever is more convient without a measurable difference.

the really important part is to make sure that the res or T line is immediately before the pump inlet.

 

[SuShI-]

the pump does not push the water up into the T line, the water in the T pushes down into the pump under the effect of gravity.

By golly! I didnt know that lol. Ok ive decided to get the T-line. Now the only thing holding me back is to get a Dremel. *sighes* do you guys suggest I buy a new dremel? if so know any good places to buy it from? Ty.

 

[Erasmus354]

temperature change across any one block in the loop, in this type of system, is so small that the order that the blocks are in doesn't really matter, and he could really do whatever is more convient without a measurable difference.

the really important part is to make sure that the res or T line is immediately before the pump inlet.

QFT

The most common misconception in water cooling is that you should put the radiator before the processor so that the "coolest" water hits the CPU first. This is completely unnecessary, In a high end system you are talking MAYBE 1.5 degrees higher coolant temperature from start to finish in the loop, this is assuming a highly overclocked prescott, a 6800 or X850, and maybe even cooling the chipset or a HD. For a normal system you are looking at somewhere between 0.5-1 degree C higher at the end of the loop than the beginning.

Keep in mind, that a 1.5C higher coolant temperature does not mean a 1.5C higher CPU temperature. In fact, the ability of the water to take the heat away from the processor is nearly identical, so you are talking more like a tenth or two of a degree higher CPU temperature putting the rad before or after the CPU.

It is, as DFI Daishi said, much more important to order your loop in the correct way with regards to the pump/res and in order to reduce sharp bends and tubing length.