My Watercooled Rig *Big Pics*

C

computerpro3

LightningRod
Joined
Mar 29, 2003
Messages
8,702
Here's my first attempt at watercooling...ya i know the right side panel isnt on, i forgot to buy a pump relay pci card....workin on it. Its been done for a while actually, just never got around to posting these pics I took when it was first completed. Its the machine in sig.

Sorry for the crappy pics, its the best my 1.3MP digicam can do. Still gotta do wiring, dont forget these pics were taken the SECOND the machine was done. I did change the fan grill on top to a laser cut chrome swirl one.

Compliments and positive criticism welcome!

Enjoy:


Good1.jpg


Good2.jpg


Good3.jpg


Good4.jpg


Good5.jpg
 
Shouldn't this be in the water cooling forum?

Other than that it looks nice.

Kinda plain though.
 
Looks good, alpha shut your homo mouth. Its the mods who decide the forum, NOT you cockface.

goodwork on the watercooling. But the aqua coloring kidna hurt sthe eyes.
 
Unoid said:
Looks good, alpha shut your homo mouth. Its the mods who decide the forum, NOT you cockface.

goodwork on the watercooling. But the aqua coloring kidna hurt sthe eyes.
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That's true, and we also decide what kind of language is tolerable. Yours was not, so please refrain from the insults in the future.


Back on topic... Nice setup, what color is the coolant though? I'm guessing those tubes are colored too? Not sure if I like that res showing through like that... but to each his own, right? :D
 
Unoid said:
Looks good, alpha shut your homo mouth. Its the mods who decide the forum, NOT you cockface.

goodwork on the watercooling. But the aqua coloring kidna hurt sthe eyes.
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Wow, that was uncalled for. It wasn't like I was flaming him, just pointing it out.

Anyway, I have my bay res showing in the front too and I like it :). I think that the system would benefit from a cold cathode or two. Just to spice it up a little.

And what's in the water that makes it look so dense? Maybe it looks different in person...

btw, nice work on the cables.

One more question. On the Maze4GPU block why do you have the water going in on the right side of the block and out the other side? It would seem that it would be easier the other way around. I'm just curious because I have the same block.
 
I've since addded 3 cold cathodes; 1 blue and 2 uv. The tubing is stained due to using too much waterdye lol. Stay away from the dtek customs dye, it only changes the color of the water for like a day then it goes clear again. so I put some more in, and it stained the tubing, while not coloring the water :rolleyes:. I cant take night shots at the moment because I just sold my chip and video card, but i will update it when my 6800 ultra and 3.4C come in. :D

PS: what the hell happened to my pics? stupid hosting......
 
friggen hosting died and i can't access them since im on vacation posting on a tablet pc
mad.gif
 
computerpro3 said:
I've since addded 3 cold cathodes; 1 blue and 2 uv. The tubing is stained due to using too much waterdye lol. Stay away from the dtek customs dye, it only changes the color of the water for like a day then it goes clear again. so I put some more in, and it stained the tubing, while not coloring the water :rolleyes:. I cant take night shots at the moment because I just sold my chip and video card, but i will update it when my 6800 ultra and 3.4C come in. :D

PS: what the hell happened to my pics? stupid hosting......
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huh?
I use D-teks dyes and they work just fine. I run it in my system as well as my repaired innovatek tank-o-matic which has been sitting filled with water and dye for the last month and a half with not one bit of color loss. are you even mixing it right man?
 
I followed the instructions on the package. I put one drop of it in and let the pump circulate it around. It colored my water a nice bright yellow/green, just as it was supposed to, and I went to bed. I wake up in the morning, and the tubes are SLIGHTLY colored, and the water is crystal clear. So I put in another drop. same deal. I then got ticked off and put in 5 drops. Took about 2 days until my water turned clear/pink and the tubing is stained the teal color you see in pics. I am using clearflex 60 tubing, distilled water, with a drop or two of iodine. I don't know why it isn't working, maybe I got bad dye?
 
The dye was probably settling to the walls of the components and sticking there when your pump was off. My frozencpu uv blue dye doesn't do this however. No staining and no sticking as far as I can tell. :) And I have my whole system off at night including the pump.
 
computerpro3 said:
I followed the instructions on the package. I put one drop of it in and let the pump circulate it around. It colored my water a nice bright yellow/green, just as it was supposed to, and I went to bed. I wake up in the morning, and the tubes are SLIGHTLY colored, and the water is crystal clear. So I put in another drop. same deal. I then got ticked off and put in 5 drops. Took about 2 days until my water turned clear/pink and the tubing is stained the teal color you see in pics. I am using clearflex 60 tubing, distilled water, with a drop or two of iodine. I don't know why it isn't working, maybe I got bad dye?
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you are supposed to use like 5 drops to a full loop.
 
alphaone said:
Yeah that.
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Oops, missed that, sorry :D

Well i thought if it was silicone, it might be absorbing the dye... I don't have any problems with clearflex other than water-wetter gunk collecting on it, so I don't know. Anybody else have problems with clearflex and dye?
 
zer0signal667 said:
Oops, missed that, sorry :D

Well i thought if it was silicone, it might be absorbing the dye... I don't have any problems with clearflex other than water-wetter gunk collecting on it, so I don't know. Anybody else have problems with clearflex and dye?
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Im on clear flex and dye with zerex racing coolant...no problems
I WAS on Tygon with no dye and water wetter...that water wetter absorbed into the tygon and now it smells horrible....I prefer this zerex !
 
that res looks sweet, one question tho...how come in the one pic its almost full, then in another its about halfway?
 
computerpro3 said:
the bottle says 1-5
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I know Ive got my bottle here with me :)
however 1 drop is in no way gonna give off the effect your lookin for :)


also your rad your useing the stock wing nut and threaded rod from D-tek right?
head up to Lowes or any other hardware store get yourself two more pieces of all thread and some nylon inserted lock nuts...thread the lock nut on one end push it back thru the core and use a wing nut inside...that way itll clean up the outside a little bit. should cost about 3 bucks.

acascianelli said:
that res looks sweet, one question tho...how come in the one pic its almost full, then in another its about halfway?
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its just the reflection dude.
 
Hehe, that got me too, for a second. I zoomed out, and I'm pretty sure it's just the reflection of a window in the background making it look less full.
 
Yup, its the window. I really do need a better camera and picture taking skills though....
 
Hey very nice setup. I have a very similar case, and I want to watercool but I dont know what radiator to use. I was wondering what radiator you are using and how are your temps/overclocks? I was thinking of either using a dual 80mm rad or a 120 mm rad with radbox. I am trying to avoid cutting my case :).

Thanks
 
ITs a Coolermaster ATC 101b. You can't get them stateside anymore, you're only shot is overseas. It should run you around $230 on up to $300+ in some places not including shipping. I got a wicked deal on the last one in the US I think from circotech.com. It was ridiculous low price, like $185 or somehting INCLUDING shipping because it was their last one and they were liquadating stock :eek:

Only people that have them are over in the UK I believe :(

But it blows every single new coolermaster or lian li clear outta the water. Not even close. The only case which can compete with it is the similarly designed Silverstone Nimiz. Interestingy enough, the two cases were designed by the same people :p Same quality too, which is quite simply the best.

Not only is it amazingly high quality workmanship and finish, it can be totally dissasembled (including pci slots and mobo tray) via thumbscrews, can hold hard drives both vertically and horizontally, the intake fan in the front can be pointed at any angle from your pci cards right up to the ceiling and draws in air through a BOTTOM vent hole to eliminate the solid front bezel airflow vs. looks problem, and my personal favorite feature, no rivits. I took the top panel off the case to cut the radiator hole. believe me, its a hell of a lot easier to cut a flat piece of aluminum laying on a piece of wood than an entire case! It eliminates bending problems and ensures the cut is perfect. The window is a high quality perspex material I believe, and its almost 1 CENTIMETER thick. The little USB door in the front IS one centimeter thick. This thing will not be breaking off. It has 5 cd rom bays, one floppy bay. Comes stock with blue LED's and aluminum start/reset buttons, unlike many lian li's and other coolermasters. It has real standoffs that actually work and case feet, the kind that are on high quality audiophile equipment, you know, the black plastic ringed with brass. The motherboard tray is all aluminum and slides like it's on rails. Doesn't stick one single bit. And it looks wicked lit up by 3 cathodes (including two UV) and with an aerogate in the top. :cool:

Its the base case ever made in my and a lot of other people's opinions.
 
computerpro3 said:
how does that work?
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that relay is the same as the any other to turn on a pump
has a 12v dc coil which is a switch when the computer turns on it "flips" the switch and completing the 120v circuit thus turning on the pump I did the same thing for my L30
 
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