My rad pics

A

AnimeMan

n00b
Joined
Apr 7, 2003
Messages
41
Well i just got done fixing up my bonneville heater core nice and pretty and ready to be piped, here are the pics:

rad2.jpg


and

rad3.jpg


Ill post more as I am doing this all for the first time. My meanwell comes in tomorrow for my tec, and that is the final peice i need to get my comp all set up, I cant wait.

My set up is the following:

Swiftech MCW5000 PT4 water block with 226 watt pelt
Meanwell to power the pelt
81 Bonneville heater core
Clear tubing from lowes
2 120 mm fans (vantec stealths)
Custom shrowd (based on the ones made from glad tupperware)
Custom res made from more tupperware.

res pics:
res1.jpg


res2.jpg


I think my biggest problem right now is going to making sure everything will be waterproof. I am going to take the time to sillicone most of the joints on the rad just to be sure they are water tight.. Another problem i forsee is getting everything running on a relay...If any one has any indepth article on how to set up a relay for a #1 pump, #2 pelt, #3 rad fans all at once, i would love to know. Also i plan on making some sort of housing for the stuff, and was wondering if anyone has built a koolance style custom box ontop of thier pc or below it? Anyways thanks for taking a look. ciao for now.
 
The radiator looks cool, although I don't care for that bright red color very much. Be careful with that dent on the one edge of it, make sure that doesn't leak. Also be careful where you threaded the fittings into the tupperware, I don't know if silicone will hold up if you wiggle the barb around alot. You might want to get something stronger, like Plumber's Goop (I think that's what it's called) and scuff up the tupperware surface where you apply it to give it a little more grip.
Also, that tubing you got from Lowe's is no good if you want to make tight bends. Clearflex is a good alternative, it can take alot more bending before it kinks (same with Tygon).
 
I wonder how much less effective it wil cool now that its covered in paint?



how many coats did ya put on it?
 
its not really covered in paint, its one light layer, and if you look down into the fins its maybe 1mm deep out of a 2 and a half inch deep core. so its mostly still not painted, just aesthetically more pleasing. Red is my favorite color :)

As for the tupperware, i am using some heavy duty silicone to make sure its sealed where i attached the barbs.
 
and as far as the tubing kinking goes, it really wont kink unless you are doing some really drastic angles close to 90 degrees. seriously i dont see what the big fuss is about having to have clearflex or tygon...just seems like an extra expense. my tubing was i think 17 cents a foot, compare that to something like 2 dollars a foot for clearflex or tygon (probably tygon, ive seen clearflex for 1.25) but still, I paid about 2 dollars for 10 feet compared to one foot of clearflex.
 
what are the dimensions on that core, whered you get it, and what was the exact number + price? Im looking at a bonny core to replace my single chevette and the size varies so much, and I have very limited dimensions, that one looks like it might be ok

i dont care for paint on rads as it kills their cooling but looks like you did it alright.
 
Originally posted by AnimeMan
and as far as the tubing kinking goes, it really wont kink unless you are doing some really drastic angles close to 90 degrees. seriously i dont see what the big fuss is about having to have clearflex or tygon...just seems like an extra expense. my tubing was i think 17 cents a foot, compare that to something like 2 dollars a foot for clearflex or tygon (probably tygon, ive seen clearflex for 1.25) but still, I paid about 2 dollars for 10 feet compared to one foot of clearflex.
Click to expand...

tygon is way too overkill, its for medical uses and such, clearflex works fine and is .50 a foot where I get it, well generic PVC is and theyre the same thing.
 
Um, the dimensions are as follows:

399078.jpg


and here is a picture with my 2 120 mm vantech stealths sitting on top.

radfan.jpg


This cost me 17.99 at AutoZone, and is made up of copper/brass. It is made by Fedco/Transpro. Model number Fedco 2-302 or Transpro number 399078. It belongs to a 1981 Pontiac Bonneville. I sawed off the pipes at a point where they were both the same size, then added my adapter and barbs. I didnt solder anything, just used some jbweld and a little muscle to get them on, finished it off with some sillicone sealant, and it doesnt leak.
 
Originally posted by AnimeMan
Um, the dimensions are as follows:

399078.jpg


and here is a picture with my 2 120 mm vantech stealths sitting on top.

radfan.jpg


This cost me 17.99 at AutoZone, and is made up of copper/brass. It is made by Fedco/Transpro. Model number Fedco 2-302 or Transpro number 399078. It belongs to a 1981 Pontiac Bonneville. I sawed off the pipes at a point where they were both the same size, then added my adapter and barbs. I didnt solder anything, just used some jbweld and a little muscle to get them on, finished it off with some sillicone sealant, and it doesnt leak.
Click to expand...

wow thats exactly right to fit, and in my price range. ill go pick one up when I get my new fan. thanks man :)
 
The reason you get clearflex or tygon is because that shit from Lowe's or HD will be disgusting shades of death within a few months, and will react and start to crack. My Tygon has lasted so far 8 months without a tinge of any color at all. My clearflex is starting to yellow, though :rolleyes:
 
well if it cracks i might care, but i could careless what color the tubing turns, and if it does get messed up, im gonna have to shell out a whole 1.70 to get another 10 feet (although i still have 5 left over so i really wouldnt have to buy any)....not really a big deal i say :)
 
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