My new H20 Cooling Setup Checklist

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Aeauvian12

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
291
Hey all, I'm just wanting to get into water cooling for my system, which although i don't plan to overclock much runs pretty hot and loud. My cpu is fine but my GPU runs almost 90 degrees celcius under load, with stock cooling and timings in a normal temperature room. I have been studying the forum a lot and have come up with a list of parts that I thought i could get some approval/suggestions on how to make it better. my setup (just wanting to cool the GPU and CPU, NB fan is fine and runs semi quiet for now) is this on a

AMD Athlon 64 3500+
BFG 6800 GT (OCed a little stock)
4x 512 2-2-2-5 Corsair XMS RAM (No one told me about 1t and 2t till after =( )
All in a Super Lanboy (Hopefully it will fit! lol)

The parts i were looking at go as follows:
-DD TDX Lucite Athlon 64 Block/ DD D5 Pump Combo: $108.75
-DD Maze4 GPU Block: $65.44 (With some OCZ ramsinks included in price)
-Black Ice Pro II Radiator: $35.99 (Would a heatercore be better, if so where do i get one with preinstalled barbs?
-Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Adhesive $7.29
-Cheapo 1/2 tubing from home depot $10.00 ish
-T Fitting (I think im doing a fillport not res) $Cheap
-Distilled water and additives $10.00 or less
-2x 120mm Yate Loons (hopefully under 20$)


So i'm looking at a grand total of approximately $300 after shipping and such

I have a few questions concerning my setup though, including:
-Would a heatercore be better than the rad? If so where do i get one with barbs already installed? If it's not cheaper than i'm not going to bother
-Are either of the blocks too restrictive for the D5? If so what would you recommend?
-Will the D5 be up to the job? DC was just an easier all out solution for me

Any changes or additions I am forgetting? I plan on running it

Pump --> Rad --> CPU --> GPU --> Pump

Edit: Switched to the BIP II instead
 
do you think cheap tubing will make a difference? Should i fork out an extra 20 bucks for some nice 1/2 inch tygon?
 
do a search on here for masterkleer, i think the majority of people (if not all) were happy with it.

for the price i dont think it can be beat.
 
If you have room in your case or are willing to do something to make it fit (in or out of case), why not go with a BIPIII? Only $10 more, plus $6 for another Yate.
 
I definitely support the use of Masterkleer tubing. Also... I agree with the statement, "why not get a BIP.3." It'll let you run alot quieter then a BIP2. But... I actually downgraded from a 3.120 radiator to a 2.120 radiator, as my computer was *so* silent, I couldn't hear it when it was on (I'd piss me off, having to turn on the screen all the time to know the thing was still on).
 
Alright thanks for all the suggestions. I'll definitely look into that style of tubing, and i have one more question to add. If i were to go with the BIP III instead, how would i go about mounting that on a super lanboy? would i mount it to the top? back maybe or would there not be enough room? And after i figure out where to mount it, HOW would i go about doing it? Thanks again for all your suggestions guys
 
For mounting, I'd go external box or mount it on top...You probably won't be able to get it to go on back. Even with the RadBox/spacers with my Swiftech kit, I can barely squeeze my monitor hookup (w DVI>VGA dongle) in - in fact I pretty much need to shift the rad/radbox over a bit to get it on/off without major contortions. Another point on back mount, with a BIP3 @ 15.6", and the case @ 16.5" tall, you'd be hard pressed to find anywhere to make the pass-thru into the case, as well as getting some hot air exausted from the PSU into the rad - not a good thing of course.

[edit] Checked specs, also the SLB is 17.1" deep, not much leeway there either. You'd probably be forced to have the rad hang off either end depending on your setup to account for the front bezel depth and bracing/rivets/etc inside the chassis..Not to mention you need to obviously drill a couple holes for the tubing to go thru, and you can't very well do it right above the PSU or above optical drives. Bottom line, maybe you should consider going back to the BIX2 or something - it would make mounting options a bit easier I think (unless you go external).

[edit again] Checking NewEggs pics of the SLB, maybe a BIX3 could be done (w/ overhang again) without too much hassle..It looks like there *might* be enough room between the PSU/door (above exhaust fan) to run the grommets/tubing. Just be sure to account for enough tubing so no kinks going from the barbs to that spot.
 
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