My first attempt at watercooling

R

ratman69

n00b
Joined
Mar 19, 2004
Messages
15
So I finally got my watercooling system together. I used a DD RBX CPU block with the #5 nozzole, and DD Maze4 GPU block, and a Z-Chip Block for my chipset. I used a Black Ice Extreme II radiator, and a Danner Mag3 pump. OneMadPopTart gave me a lot of help in choosing the components in a previous thread.

I spend all day sunday and monday getting it all done. It was a lot more work than I thought it would be. I think it came out pretty well, not as nice as some that I've seen on here, but I think it was pretty good for my first try. I was going to sleeve all my ps cables at the same time, but it was taking to long so I figured I would save that for later.

Here's the pics, I apologize for the blurr in some of them, but it was late and I was ass tired. Oh, and please don't give me shit about the Xaser case, I didn't know how [H]ated they were when I bought it. :)

pic01.JPG


pic02.JPG


pic03.JPG


pic04.JPG


pic05.JPG


pic06.JPG


pic07.JPG


pic08.JPG
 
GJ! Any leaks? :D

Btw, what's your impression on the noise of the Danner Mag 3?
 
Just noticed; did you get the clearflex over the pump outlet without a barb? :eek:


EDIT: NVM I'm goin blind I guess. :rolleyes:
 
Nice job , now you have entered the "Stare threw my comp window in ahhh" , makes you feel good to know you did that :).
 
No leaks so far. That was one of the hard parts putting it together. I ran the whole system together ouside of the computer for a week, without any leaks, and then when I finally put it together, I had a leak here and a leak there. I drained the system three times to fix leaks. First once of the barbs on the rad leaked, and then the top barb on the pump leaked twice. But that's why I put it together without the components in it, and I ran it for a while before I put them in, and then for 24 hrs before I turned anything on.

The Danner Mag 3 does make some noise, but it seems to be because the vibrations are causing some resonance on the bottom of the case. I'm going to put some foam rubber underneath it to help with that, but its really not that loud anyway.

It's really nice to look at now, but I'm not too happy with the color of the UV reactive dye. I was hoping it would be more like the color of the LED fans. I was going to try adding some more dye to see if it changes the color.
 
Where did you get the barb for the top of the pump? I got a Danner, and I can't find anyone that makes a 1/2" NPT => 5/8" barb fitting...
 
Sorry, forgot to post the specs. Its a Barton 2500 on a MSI KT6 Delta board. with 1 gig of Mushkin "222" pc3200 special ram, and a Nvidia 5900 nu graphics card. I've got the chip overclocked to about 2040mhz right now, I've been bumping it up and testing it slowly since I put the watercooling in, but its a pain in the ass cause my sister always comes home late at night and turns off my Prime95 torture test. I'm probably going to take it up to about 2400mhz, I don't need much more than that.

I got the barb for the top of the pump at OSH, but it wasn't the best choice because it had little bumbs on it that were meant for grip, and they hit the housing of the pump. I had to dremel them off so I could properly tighten the fitting.

If you don't have an OSH, look for an agricultural watering supply place, they should have all sorts of fittings.
 
Lookin' good:D

Glad to see my help was appreciated and helped to turn out a great watercooling setup.

I have a couple of questions too...

What are your temps like? What was the drop over your last cooling method?

Why did you choose to install your BIX II with the barbs at the front of the case? I would think having them on the power supply end would both save you tubing, and look a little better since you could go straight up from your NB chip. Does the power supply wiring get in the way? I don't think it should, but its possible I guess.

Why is your T line long like that? A T line doesn't need to be that long, only a couple of inches will do you. It removes that cluttered tubing running the lenght of your case and saves some money in tubing too:)

Other than that, looking real good. Great job putting it all together.

-OMP
 
I have the barbs over the drive bays because I screwed up when I cut the fan holes. I lined up the radiator without the power supply in place when I marked the holes. When I tried to put it all together, it wouldn't fit, so I had to turn the radiator around. I had to put 90 degree barbs on the radiator to make it so just one drive could fit. I didn't want to use any 90's cause I know they are the most restrictive fittings. I've been looking to see if I could find a "shorter" 90, then I can get both of my drives back in.

I got about a 10 degree F drop from before. Not as much as I expected, but I tried reseating the cpu block a couple times and the results were always the same. I did start to resume overclocking though, and a 5mhz bump on the FSB didn't produce any higher temps at all. When I had it aircooled, that would cause the temps to go up a couple degrees. I haven't had time to go up any more because I like to test it for at least 8 hours before I bump it up again.

I'm not sure why I made the T-line so long. At first I had it really long because it made it a little bit easier to fill, and then I cut it so it would fit in the case. I'll cut it down sooner or later. :)

Thanks again for the help! :)
 
u could try a stronger pump. those danners have a high watt output and dont flow all that much so try to find something thats stronger and throws less heat through the water like the cap-1800. u have a lot blocks, more flow would help.
 
The Cap-1800 is a shottily-made pump at best, and is submersable. I don't think it has any applications for this project.
 
Oh, and please don't give me shit about the Xaser case, I didn't know how [H]ated they were when I bought it. :)
Click to expand...

What's wrong with Thermaltake cases? I have a XaserIII Skull Series case, and it is by far one of the best out there. Anyone who gives me crap for it can go to hell. :)
 
Originally posted by Volume
What's wrong with Thermaltake cases? I have a XaserIII Skull Series case, and it is by far one of the best out there. Anyone who gives me crap for it can go to hell. :)
Click to expand...

I didn't say that I didn't like it, it just seems that a lot of people on here really dislike the Thermaltake premods.
 
Originally posted by ratman69
I didn't say that I didn't like it, it just seems that a lot of people on here really dislike the Thermaltake premods.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying that you said it. I'm just hating on all the haters out there.
 
Originally posted by OneMadPoptart
The Cap-1800 is a shottily-made pump at best, and is submersable. I don't think it has any applications for this project.
Click to expand...

i guess they dont make em like they used to cuz... i had one running on my aqarium for 3 years 24/7. all i did was clean it up and now its the main marp of my cousins watercooling rig. quiet and gives almost no heat off into the water. but i guess they dont make em like that anymore? doesnt even compare to my danner 5. but they dont make em like that anymore right?

is.php

is.php



i cant see em, can u guys?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top