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most _secure, reliable_ fitting?

M

Momo

Gawd
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
869
Yup, you heard it. I dont want looks, I dont want the best flow ever.
I want reliable, secure fittings.

I've currently got 3/8" ID Tygon, and DangerDen high flow chrome fittings (single barb).

I've been told that Compression Fittings as displayed here are more reliable than the ones Danger Den offers.

So... in your opinion, what are the most reliable fittings in terms of no leaks?
(when fitted properly)

thanks!
 
try these from McMaster car, stainless steel and you need a crimper to put them on:

5435K12
Single Pinch SS Hose & Tube Clamp 3/8" To 7/16" Clamp ID Range, 9/32" Band Width
 
Momo said:
Yup, you heard it. I dont want looks, I dont want the best flow ever.
I want reliable, secure fittings.

I've currently got 3/8" ID Tygon, and DangerDen high flow chrome fittings (single barb).

I've been told that Compression Fittings as displayed here are more reliable than the ones Danger Den offers.

So... in your opinion, what are the most reliable fittings in terms of no leaks?
(when fitted properly)

thanks!
Click to expand...

You already found them. Those compression fittings are zero leak. I got lots of them around here in two different computers
 
What's the OD on that 3/8" tygon?

I've got some 3/8" tygon with a massive 7/8" OD that i would love to incorporate into my system. But i haven't found compression fittings that would take it.
 
Automotive fittings...

AeroQuip PN FCM1512 (2)
AeroQuip PN FCM2034 (2)
P1010103.JPG
 
the tygon is 3/8" id 1/2" OD i believe. At work, cant double check.

Sounds like there's two votes for automotive, one for the compression fittings.

EDIT: In looking at dangerden.com ... there is only a selector for the ID (i've got 3/8" ID) but it does not tell us the OD anywhere. In thinking about it, it cannot be only 1/2" OD. Gotta be more.
I'll check later today.
 
the tubing is probably 5/8" OD. two 1/8" thick walls. the 1/2" ID tygon that i have is 3/4" OD, again with 1/8" walls.

i like to use simple barb fittings that are 1/8" OD too large for my size of tubing, and gear clamps. in my case that means that i use 5/8" OD barbs in 1/2" ID tubing, and even without the clamps, it is almost impossible to deliberately pull the hose off of the barbs. in your case, it would mean using 1/2" OD barbs, with 3/8" ID tubing.

the other proposed methods are very secure as well, i'm just mentioning what i use.
 
DFI Daishi, that's what Dan @ DangerDen uses as well.
He suggested heating the tygon with some boiled water (microwave in a dish for 3-4 minutes) and slip it on. When the tygon cools, he said you cannot pull it off, no matter how hard ya try.

Seems to me using a gear clamp in addion to the Tygon (3/8" ID) tightening itself over that 1/2" OD barb would provide more than adequate reliability. Besides, i'd rather not spend $3.95 x 8-12 for fittings :eek: That starts to add up, heh.

Thanks for your input Daishi.

EDIT: Daishi, when you said 'simple' barb fittings, did you mean single? (what DD sells) or do you use multiple barbed fittings ?
 
mine are not what dangerden sells, because dangerden does not sell their blocks with 5/8" OD fittings, when last i checked, and they definately did not when i purchased my blocks.

i use multi-barbed fittings that i picked up at a store that carries a lot of hoses and fittings in the industrial area of my town.

single barbs would propably be pretty secure as well, but i got what was locally available.

in my case, last time i re-plumbed, i had to cut the hose off the barbs, because there was no way that it was going to slip off willingly.

when i said "simple" perhaps i should have said something more like "plain old barb fittings"
 
The Aeroquip fittings are nice looking, sturdy, but really expensive! Another thing to consider is that they are usually made out of aluminum instead of the usual brass w/ niclkel plating if that's a problem for you. You will either have to have someone crimp the exact size you specify or invest in a special crimping tool to do it yourself.

If you want fancy and ease of installation you should consider the fittings made by Legris or Parker Hannifin (good luck trying to navigate their site) as they make the so called Plug n Cool connectors which are actually used primarily in the pneumatic industries. Both companies are world wide manufacturers so you should have no problems in getting metric or imperial fittings.
 
Expensive is all in what you make of it. Why spend thousands on a wicked fast computer that you are going to over clock and pout some cheap brass fittings in it. You spend all the time to make the wires look nice and neat, run all your hoses with care, so the extra touch in my opinion is well worth it.

Anyways I have tons of these things just lying around my race shop so for me it was no biggie and made sense. Plus expensive is this, my race truck
 
TN (Top Nurse) when you say Aeroquip, you mean the ones i linked from Sharka, right?

EDIT:
Also, on the info on that page, it states that they are nickel plated. But does not state what the base material is.

... I'm hoping that I wont have any metal conflict issues. I hadnt thought of that to be honest. I assumed that a copper TDX, copper NV-68, and the nickel plated fittings DD included would not conflict.
I plan to use a TDX and an NV-68 with these compression fittings from Sharka on everything (rad, TDX, NV-68, Res) at this time.

In speaking with Wes @ sharka, he said the overall reliability is an 8-9/10, where the single barbed DD would be around a 5/10
(5/10 for DD fitting reference only. suggested by myself, to try and understand how much higher a reliability these compression fittings are relatively.)

Regards,
Mo
 
1quicksi said:
Expensive is all in what you make of it. Why spend thousands on a wicked fast computer that you are going to over clock and pout some cheap brass fittings in it. You spend all the time to make the wires look nice and neat, run all your hoses with care, so the extra touch in my opinion is well worth it.

Anyways I have tons of these things just lying around my race shop so for me it was no biggie and made sense. Plus expensive is this, my race truck
Click to expand...

Well if I was in your position I would use the Aeroquip fittings too as they really do look cool on a computer and a car as well :D
 
Momo said:
TN (Top Nurse) when you say Aeroquip, you mean the ones i linked from Sharka, right?

EDIT:
Also, on the info on that page, it states that they are nickel plated. But does not state what the base material is.

... I'm hoping that I wont have any metal conflict issues. I hadnt thought of that to be honest. I assumed that a copper TDX, copper NV-68, and the nickel plated fittings DD included would not conflict.
I plan to use a TDX and an NV-68 with these compression fittings from Sharka on everything (rad, TDX, NV-68, Res) at this time.

In speaking with Wes @ sharka, he said the overall reliability is an 8-9/10, where the single barbed DD would be around a 5/10
(5/10 for DD fitting reference only. suggested by myself, to try and understand how much higher a reliability these compression fittings are relatively.)
Click to expand...

The Aeroquip fittings are the red and blue fittings you see above.

I think Sharka's are brass under the nickel plate, but that is why they nickel plate them...for chemical and corrosion protection. It also makes them look nice as well :)

No connector is 100% idiot proof unless you weld it and X-ray the joint and plastic doesn't weld too good. You can get stainless tubing that will work on some varieties of the Plug n Cool fittings, but it's a real pain to bend every which way. Wes is very knowlegable about all forms of quiet computing and H20 stuff. I trust his opinion and buy a lot of stuff from him as a result. In fact I just dropped about $1,000 with him on H20 cooling stuff in the last 30 days or so :D
 
Cool.

I'm hoping to scrounge together the cash needed for when the order he's placed arrives.

1 x evo 360 grille (reserved)
10-12 x compression fittings (CPU, GPU, HDD, Res, Rad, 2 extra)
1 x DangerDen TDX
1 x DangerDen NV-68
1 x FluidXP 32oz bottle

btw; a little off-topic... what non-conductive coolants do you folks use? fluiXP? MCT-40/5?
Also, MCT-40 lists a more complete list of 'safe' metals it can come in contact with. "Safe on plastic, rubber, seals copper, brass, aluminum, steel, and gaskets"
whereas FluidXP states
"The fluid passes over copper, nickel plated brass, acrylic, clear vinyl and plastic as well as the components of the centrifugal water pump. " This isnt even a list of what is 'safe' to use the fluid with.
It's just the example setup used.

FluidXP is double the price of MCT-40 (going by DangerDen and Sharka pricing here, for the same amount of 32oz)

Do any of you know if either provides better thermal transfer? Flows better? Any concerns?

Man, did i just open up a can o' tubing :D

Thanks again, people!
.... it astounds me how much you post here TN.
Then again, my girlfriend has a post-count on another BB well over 27,000 :eek:
 
non-conductive coolant? distilled water and whatever coolant additive is available (zerex, water wetter, antifreeze)

as i have said before: fresh distilled water is not perfect, but it is close enough to non-conductive that my ohm meter can't pick up any current even with the probes right side by side. just for reference: my body's resistance is roughly 1000 ohm with dry fingers. fresh distilled water seems to have a resistance of better than 2000 ohm, the max that my meter can read.

edit: i have never felt the need to splash some on my computer to test that out to the max, though.
 
DFI Daishi said:
edit: i have never felt the need to splash some on my computer to test that out to the max, though.
Click to expand...

Problem is once the distilled water touches your motherboard and other assorted pieces of hardware, it will pick up traces of metals, and cause the water to start conducting. In other words, using distilled water doesn't prevent your hardware from frying when you get leaks, it's just cleaner water so u know exactly what's going in your loop (99.9% H2O).
 
DaLurker said:
Problem is once the distilled water touches your motherboard and other assorted pieces of hardware, it will pick up traces of metals, and cause the water to start conducting. In other words, using distilled water doesn't prevent your hardware from frying when you get leaks, it's just cleaner water so u know exactly what's going in your loop (99.9% H2O).
Click to expand...
those non-conductive water replacements can also pick up ions if they come into contact with them. they don't do it as well/quickly. if you're going to argue it that way, then the non-conductive solutions are better, but still moderately conductive after a while of service within your loop.

distilled water is still much less conductive than tap water.

i did that quick conductivity test by cracking opening a fresh jug of distilled water and pouring some distilled into the bottle cap, and then probing it. my tap water has a resistance of about 400 ohm in that same cap.
 
[Momo]

My posts here tend to go in spurts. I'm going back to work here in a week or two and then you won't be seeing as much of me. Got lots of lives to save while I make the big $$ :)

********************************************************************************************
Now as far as the Fluid XP stuff goes I'm thinking of using that stuff myself. I have heard that I can take a fully energized PSU and just dump it right in with no adverse effects to it or the computer :eek: However, while I do intend to try that little experiment I'm not going to use MY computer. Perhaps a nice old XT or AT that needs a decent burial afterwards so I don't have to clean up after. ;)
 
top nurse: you're going to wear rubber boots, rubber gloves and pour from a plastic basin, at the very least, i hope.

better still would be to prop up the basin with a stick, over the PSU and then use a long string to pull out the stick.

wile-e-cyotee style.
 
Worm drive clamps are the way to go, and they're cheap. You can put a ratchet on them and tighten as hard as you want practically.
 
thewhiteguy said:
Worm drive clamps are the way to go, and they're cheap. You can put a ratchet on them and tighten as hard as you want practically.
Click to expand...


I've broken quite a few worm drive clamps because of over tightening. It bends the steel and makes the screw lose contact.
 
DaLurker, remmber he said as hard as you want.... you dont *want* to break them :D

Regardless, I'm a big fan of the barb fittings plus worm drive clamps. I've had too much good luck with it to worry about anythign else. I guess it all comes down to wether you use what you have correctly or not...
 
I've used a lot of different hoses and clamps over too many years to count for a whole lot of purposes. Screw type hose clamps are easily damaged, tend to cut the tubing, and just ain't reliable for anything more than perhaps a garden hose. There are a lot of different style hose clamps and ways to attach hose to fittings. You will never see a screw type hose clamp in anything where it's a life or death situation nor will you see them used in industrial automation sequences because they are not reliable.. Losing your hot rod custom computer to a cheap hose clamp is the height of lunacy ;)
 
I use worm drive clamps. The trusty zip-tie gun does a hell of a job too.
 
I'm sure it does, but how unhappy are you going to be some day when your pride and joy goes pop, sizzle, crack with copious amounts of magic smoke billowing out of it? Won't you feel kind of silly that you didn't spend a few more bucks on some sniggling little fitting?
 
well, Considerig the fact that i use worm drive clamps on dirtrack racecars (think nasty ruts and 80mph put together) regularly without problems at all, i'd have to say that they are plenty reliable.

As far as the pneumatic style fittings go... I cant say the same. The only fittings of that type i've ever used had a tendancy to leak horribly, granted, this was with compressed air, but i've seen worm-drives hold up to much much more than those things usually did.

But like I said, it all comes down to how you use them. if you dont over-tighten the clamps, then they wont cut the tubing or break. Kinda like throwing a waterblock on a computer and securing it with machine screws, overtighten em and your core will crack. It's all about finesse
 
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