• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Modifying a Corsair H50

Not without possibly ruining it. The tubing on it already, isn't a size easily matched. You'll have to...

-Add new coolant, because the coolant in it is special as far I know.
-Find a way to make sure the added tubing is secure and wouldn't cause leaks.
-Would be impossible to bleed without adding a res, which is an absolute waste, plus there would be two res's in it then.
-The pump isn't very good, so adding a lot of extra tubing would decrease it's performance.

So pretty much, no don't do it. :cool:
 
Last edited:
I don't think it's possible. Whole point of it was it was more or less long enough to get to the CPU and the back fan. Making it longer by changing/adding tubes will probably kill it.
 
Not without possibly ruining it. The tubing on it already, isn't a size easily matched. You'll have to...

-Add new coolant, because the coolant in it is special as far I know.
-Find a way to make sure the added tubing is secure and wouldn't cause leaks.
-Would be impossible to bleed without adding a res, which is an absolute waste, plus there would be two res's in it then.
-The pump isn't very good, so adding a lot of extra tubing would decrease it's performance.

So pretty much, no don't do it. :cool:

I don't think it's possible. Whole point of it was it was more or less long enough to get to the CPU and the back fan. Making it longer by changing/adding tubes will probably kill it.

Well, it's been done. Here's the proof on Overclock.net.
 
Looks doable to me.

1. install the new tubing on the cpu block first (both in and outlets)
2. totally submerge the radiator and tubing in a bucket of coolant,
3. suck-siphon coolant into the block,
4. connect the pump outlet to the radiator
5. power up the pump and fully bleed it,
6. connect the other tube while the rad is still submerged.
7. thoroughly dry the rad
8. go and play
 
Looks doable to me.

1. install the new tubing on the cpu block first (both in and outlets)
2. totally submerge the radiator and tubing in a bucket of coolant,
3. suck-siphon coolant into the block,
4. connect the pump outlet to the radiator
5. power up the pump and fully bleed it,
6. connect the other tube while the rad is still submerged.
7. thoroughly dry the rad
8. go and play

Looks 'fool-proof' to me :) . Maybe use a double rad instead while you're at it :p
 
Have any tests been done with the H50's pump about how well it actually works and if if could push through a double rad? Modding a double rad on their might not be a horrible idea.....
 
Assuming it shares most similarities to its Asetek counterpart, which was used in the HP Blackbird, which used a dual 120mm radiator and it also had the CPU, and dual video cards in the loop, I would bet the pump is capable at being put on a different rad.

Ill be doing a build in about a month, and I had already planned to re-work the H50 into a dual radiator, so if it hasn't already been done by then, Ill post my findings.
 
For your own analysis:

hp-blackbird-002.jpg
 
Back
Top