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Modders Mesh

W

wooster241

Gawd
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
851
hey i saw this modders mesh and was thinking about using it to replace the acrylic windows in my x-qpack. im just wondering how durable and flexable this is, because i dont want it to be really flexable. i plan on using the honeycomb design moddersmeshH
 
It won't be very sturdy, that's for sure.

I'd search for the project "Shuttle cool down (might have been spelt cooldown?)" as the owner of that mod seems to have done what you are thinking of doing.
 
i saw the project and sent him a pm about the modders mesh. about the tutorial, i dont plan on keeping the acrylic behind it. do i have to use laquer or w/e to clean it or can i just slap it on? i plan on using the bolt things already holding the acrylic on to hold the mesh
 
The mesh should be strong enough, it's not like it'll tear (I've used it before, great stuff).
You should ideally clear coat it at least, because it's just mild steel - if left exposed it will rust (Hence the reason Bill ships it with a light coat of oil on it). Get it, clean it with mineral spirits, let it dry, and clear coat it. Then just replace the window with it :)
 
Or you could let it rust if you're going for a techno-industrial look. But if that isn't what you want, clear coat it like that guy said.
 
Modder's mesh is aluminum. Mine is anyways.

I do have some modder's mesh made of steel, but it has round holes.
 
SarverSystems said:
Modder's mesh is aluminum. Mine is anyways.

I do have some modder's mesh made of steel, but it has round holes.
Click to expand...
...

I dunno where you got your modder's mesh, but mine is steel.
Modder's Mesh
mnpctech.com said:
Honeycomb. (79% airflow)
22 gauge perforated plain steel.
1/4" hexagon holes with 9/32" staggered centers
Click to expand...
 
SarverSystems said:
I got mine from the source of all modder's mesh.

www.mcmaster-carr.com.

I refused to buy the overpriced stuff from MNPCTech.

And mine really IS aluminum. A magnet will not stick to it.
Click to expand...
Okay... "Modder's Mesh" is the MNPCTech brand of perforated steel. To say "Modder's Mesh" is aluminum is like saying, well... Crap, I can't think of a good analogie.

Anyway, I bought mine from MNPCTech because I want to give his company business. Otherwise, I would've bought from McMaster, or even better, McNichol's.

btw, I think what he means is that 12 square feet really is alot of mesh when you look at it.
 
pstang said:
?... explain
Click to expand...

3 x 4 = 12. It's called mathematics. 3 feet long and 4 feet wide = 12 square feet. If you were thinking 12 feet squared then that would be 12 x 12 = 144 square feet. But that would be hellacious to ship.
 
First of all, this stuff isn't even REALLY called modder's mesh. It is called perforated steel/aluminum/plastic.

Someone started calling it that, and the name has stuck. It's nothing more than a trade name.

So, to call modder's mesh aluminum, is to call modder's mesh aluminum.

To put it bluntly, modder's mesh can be bought in steel, aluminum, and plastic. It can also be bought in different hole patterns and shapes.

End of story? End of story.
 
Sarver putting the smack down on names. I never liked the name either.
 
i need a place that sells 12"x12" honeycomb/hexagon for cheap and i can get that for 6 bux on mnptech, but it isnt aluminum. so to treat it i would put some oil on it? like wd40? then wipe it clean and put a clear coat? im confused on how to treat it
 
You'd want to put a degreaser on it first, clean it REAL good with soap and water.

Let it dry, then wipe it down again with ONLY water.

Let it dry again.

Then spray it down with a clearcoat of some sort. I'd do 5 or 6 light coats.

Remember to clearcoat it AFTER you've done all of your cutting and bending. That way all the edges are selaed as well.

remember to clearcoat it from different cangles and both sides too.
 
SarverSystems said:
You'd want to put a degreaser on it first, clean it REAL good with soap and water.

Let it dry, then wipe it down again with ONLY water.

Let it dry again.

Then spray it down with a clearcoat of some sort. I'd do 5 or 6 light coats.

Remember to clearcoat it AFTER you've done all of your cutting and bending. That way all the edges are selaed as well.

remember to clearcoat it from different cangles and both sides too.
Click to expand...
QFT.
 
Fenris_Ulf said:
3 x 4 = 12. It's called mathematics. 3 feet long and 4 feet wide = 12 square feet. If you were thinking 12 feet squared then that would be 12 x 12 = 144 square feet. But that would be hellacious to ship.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know math, and I also know English. If you go back to the quote:
SarverSystems said:
For a 12 square foot piece. Mine was 3' X 4'.
Click to expand...
timmmay says:
3' x 4' does not equal "12 square foot"?
Click to expand...
I was just wondering what his logic was behind his statement, but seeing that he has only made 10 post since 2004 I will probobly never get a reply.

But in the end it is a trivial matter and is off topic.
 
mnpctech said:
It pays the mortgage :D
Click to expand...
Exactly why I buy it ;)
Bill has a decent customer base not just because of the name though - he's got excellent service, and he contributes alot to the community.

And for goodness sakes, all Modder's Mesh is perforated metal, but not all perforated metal is Modder's Mesh. Just like all chapstick is lip balm, but not all lip balm is chapstick.
 
1: Cut to size.
2: File the cut edges slightly with a file or sanding block.
3: Degrease with any readily available cleaner. I sued some kind of bathroom cleaner. Simple Green would be ideal.
4: Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes with degreaser on it.
5: Spray it off with water.
6: Sand the surface with sand paper to give the paint soemthing to stick to. You can do this while it is wet from step 5 if necessary.
7: Spray it off with water to remove the fine metal particles.
8: Let it dry for AT LEAST an hour.
9: Paint the backside first.
9: Let dry for paint manufacturer's recommended time.
10: Flip over and paint front side.
11: Let CURE for paint manufacturer's recommended time.
12: Spray on clearcoart using steps 9-11.
13: Let it CURE for paint manufacturer's recommended time before heavy handling.
TIPS:

Remember to paint from different angles to get even coverage on the "insides" of the hexagons/holes.

If you are going to bend the mesh into a shape, do it before painting it. The paint WILL chip off where it bends.

Always use paint and clearcoat from the same manufacturer and make sure they are compatible. Acrylic for acrylic, enamel for enamel, etc...
 
cool. i will get the mesh and paint it green to match the front of my xqpack. i might even mount a fan on each side in the mesh. thanks again
 
Why thank you qtip :D
And there's pretty much nothing to add to Sarver's advice. Follow it and you shall have nice painted perforated metal (To be politically correct and all inclusive :p)
 
If I recall correctly... if you are careful and align the holes jsut right, and 80mm fan will mount to the "mesh" without have to drill new holes or expand exisiting holes.

I dunno about 120mm though.

Also, remember how the lid attaches. You won't be able to mount fans to the inside of the mesh. There'd be no way to get the lid back on.

I don't think there is enough room to mount a fan on the top window either.

You could always use those goofy fans that mount on the outside.

I have a few black ones if you are interested. They light up blue though.
 
ok, well i guess thats fine. i plan on just doing the 2 sides of the qpack now. i will mount a ps1 lcd on the top!
 
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