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Mod Project: APHEX
- Thread starter ErrOnReq
- Start date
Thats funny, Im working with some Rust-oleum "chrome" paint. It looks nothing like chrome. It's nearly the same silver I am already using but with much finer metal flake.
Im taking it back tomarrow because the cap color is chrome/miror like appearance, and all of their other paints have a very good representation of the paint on the caps.
Im taking it back tomarrow because the cap color is chrome/miror like appearance, and all of their other paints have a very good representation of the paint on the caps.
Same here with Dupli-Color so far. It's just a semi-reflective silvery paint even though the cap looks like chrome :-P
Sanding down the paint turns it to a dark grey, so I'm not sure how this will work out :-(
Still no good alternative to actual chrome.
Sanding down the paint turns it to a dark grey, so I'm not sure how this will work out :-(
Still no good alternative to actual chrome.
The past two days I have been working on the top cooling compartment. I had to cut out room for the 120 mm intake fan, prime and some other small things. I also started work on the hard drive cage. I am going to use the sides of the hard drive cage that was originally part of the case since it already has good mounting holes. However, I cut and folded out a new bottom of the cage. Saturday I will cut out the sides of the cage, fold them, and hopefully get it all primed and maybe start painting. I also need to add the ability to mount the removable drive cage into the top cooling compartment. Hopefully I can get this done tomarrow and have some more pics up.
As I said, I have been working on the new removable hard drive cage. It is not finished, but it is progressing. I have some pics for you, but not of the final product. The sides of the cage still need to be modified for mounting, as well as the mount itself. I also need to create one more mount. Basically, there are two "L" brackets that will be riveted to the walls of the cooling compartment. The hard drive cage will have flaps that overlap the "L" brackets and screws are used to secure them together.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2002
- Messages
- 1,553
looking awesome so far 
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to work on the mod in the past few days. I have been doing a lot of cleaning up here. Tomorrow (Thursday) Looks promising for some work to get done though! Expect some sort of update. If I am for some reason unable to update with any fabrication pictures, I may consider showing off some of my designs, ideas and schematics for the case. There is a LOT that I haven't shown or talked about yet. HINT: When the mod is finished, and you remove the side panel of the case, you will feel like you are looking under the hood of a ricer, not the circuit board and wired mess of a computer case
Ok, well I said I would get some sort of work done today. This time I didn't lie! Hurrah! Well, it isn't much, but hey...
The previous mounting bracket for the hard drive rack wasn't the proper dimensions, so today I had to cut two out of an aluminum sheet, sand and file etc until they were nice and pretty.
Then I bent them into shape using the bending brake of who I love more and more with each passing day.
Next I have to sketch out and cut the proper tab dimensions for the drive cage so it sits neatly on top of the brackets. The cage isn't put together yet, it first has to be cut and painted. So I held it together temporarily with a hard drive.
All the cutting and sanding involved in the brackets was horrible. Too bad the end result doesn't have as big of an impact on the eyes as it did on my patience. Anyway, I also mentioned that I might show off some of my ideas for the interior of the case. Well, here are a few sketches:
This is one of my first ideas to make the inside of the computer resemble an engine. That would enclose the CD drive and bay res. wires from the PSU and mobo IDE would go in on one side, and the wires that power each fan, voltage regulated by a rheostat, would exit the other side.
This was another idea, same basic idea with a different design that would actually fit inside the case.
But I didn't really care for either of them and I had thought of a much better idea. Why not fabricate a fiberglass engine cover and stuff to cover the motherboard and graphics card and aid in cooling as well?
I ran with this idea and sketched out how each individual fiberglass cover would look.
I wasn't completely happy with it, so I did a bit more tweaking and this is my vision so far. I'm still not happy with the part that covers the graphics card and I haven't sketched in the radiator yet.
When I was trying to compute some of the curves which would needed to be made on an aluminum sheet, I found that I didn't have a protractor... so instead of spending 73 cents on a cheap plastic one, I decided to make my own using a ruler and a circle traced from a roll of masking tape.
You know you're hardcore when you make your own protractor!
The previous mounting bracket for the hard drive rack wasn't the proper dimensions, so today I had to cut two out of an aluminum sheet, sand and file etc until they were nice and pretty.
Then I bent them into shape using the bending brake of who I love more and more with each passing day.
Next I have to sketch out and cut the proper tab dimensions for the drive cage so it sits neatly on top of the brackets. The cage isn't put together yet, it first has to be cut and painted. So I held it together temporarily with a hard drive.
All the cutting and sanding involved in the brackets was horrible. Too bad the end result doesn't have as big of an impact on the eyes as it did on my patience. Anyway, I also mentioned that I might show off some of my ideas for the interior of the case. Well, here are a few sketches:
This is one of my first ideas to make the inside of the computer resemble an engine. That would enclose the CD drive and bay res. wires from the PSU and mobo IDE would go in on one side, and the wires that power each fan, voltage regulated by a rheostat, would exit the other side.
This was another idea, same basic idea with a different design that would actually fit inside the case.
But I didn't really care for either of them and I had thought of a much better idea. Why not fabricate a fiberglass engine cover and stuff to cover the motherboard and graphics card and aid in cooling as well?
I ran with this idea and sketched out how each individual fiberglass cover would look.
I wasn't completely happy with it, so I did a bit more tweaking and this is my vision so far. I'm still not happy with the part that covers the graphics card and I haven't sketched in the radiator yet.
When I was trying to compute some of the curves which would needed to be made on an aluminum sheet, I found that I didn't have a protractor... so instead of spending 73 cents on a cheap plastic one, I decided to make my own using a ruler and a circle traced from a roll of masking tape.
You know you're hardcore when you make your own protractor!
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2001
- Messages
- 4,364
lol nice protractor, although i would suggest getting one its neat that you can make your own. Great work on the fans, very impressed, where did you get that molding?
Hack_light
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2003
- Messages
- 390
Looking great. Keep it up.
I think the molding is from MNPCTech (www.mnpctech.com). Kurtis had some lying around so I stole it.
Thanks for the kind words all
I have been doing the finishing metal work (cutting, drilling, sanding etc.) on the hard drive cage, mounts and the top cooling compartment. I tapped some holes in the mounts so the hard drive can be secured with thumbscrews. The weather sucks horribly right now. It decides to rain randomly during the day, every day. Well, pseudo-random because it always happens to start raining as soon as I want so do something outside. Next I need to sand down and prime all the cooling compartment, hard drive cage and mount stuff but it is too humid!!! Hopefully tomorrow will be decent. I'll update with some pics tomorrow probably.
Thanks for the kind words all
I have been doing the finishing metal work (cutting, drilling, sanding etc.) on the hard drive cage, mounts and the top cooling compartment. I tapped some holes in the mounts so the hard drive can be secured with thumbscrews. The weather sucks horribly right now. It decides to rain randomly during the day, every day. Well, pseudo-random because it always happens to start raining as soon as I want so do something outside. Next I need to sand down and prime all the cooling compartment, hard drive cage and mount stuff but it is too humid!!! Hopefully tomorrow will be decent. I'll update with some pics tomorrow probably.
Ok, well here are some pics of what I have done since the last update with pics.
I had to do some finishing touches on the hard drive cage and mounts. The cage tabs had to be cut to the right size. I also had to grind down, sand and "perfect" the tabs and mounts. I did run into a small problem when testing the drive cage and mounts. When the hard drives are installed and slid into place, a couple of the screws that hold the drives in the cage stick out too far and hit the mounts. This was a simple problem with a simple solution. I just cut out the corners of the mounts. Now there is plenty of room, even if I want to use thumbscrews to secure the drives.
One all the pieces were test-fitted, it was time to drill some holes. Measurements were taken and the mounts and side cooling compartment panels were drilled. I also fit the drive cage sides with the mounts to get those holes drilled out. Finally I had to tap the holes on the mount so thumbscrews could be used to secure the cage.
Well, now that a bunch of the tiny things are done, I was able to test fit the entire compartment and drive cage. Thankfully it all fits! I just stuck some pop-rivets through the holes for a temporary structure.
The last thing I did was sand down all the different parts to get ready for primer and paint (I cut myself in the process *sad face*). Tuesday, if it isn't too humid due to all this rain, I will hopefully be able to prime everything and get ready for the color coat. Tomorrow, while in between coats of paint and whatnot, I am going to start working with the fiberglass!!! I will just muck around and try to get acquainted with it. I will most definitely have pics of that. Once I have my fun, I should start working on the top of the case.
I had to do some finishing touches on the hard drive cage and mounts. The cage tabs had to be cut to the right size. I also had to grind down, sand and "perfect" the tabs and mounts. I did run into a small problem when testing the drive cage and mounts. When the hard drives are installed and slid into place, a couple of the screws that hold the drives in the cage stick out too far and hit the mounts. This was a simple problem with a simple solution. I just cut out the corners of the mounts. Now there is plenty of room, even if I want to use thumbscrews to secure the drives.
One all the pieces were test-fitted, it was time to drill some holes. Measurements were taken and the mounts and side cooling compartment panels were drilled. I also fit the drive cage sides with the mounts to get those holes drilled out. Finally I had to tap the holes on the mount so thumbscrews could be used to secure the cage.
Well, now that a bunch of the tiny things are done, I was able to test fit the entire compartment and drive cage. Thankfully it all fits! I just stuck some pop-rivets through the holes for a temporary structure.
The last thing I did was sand down all the different parts to get ready for primer and paint (I cut myself in the process *sad face*). Tuesday, if it isn't too humid due to all this rain, I will hopefully be able to prime everything and get ready for the color coat. Tomorrow, while in between coats of paint and whatnot, I am going to start working with the fiberglass!!! I will just muck around and try to get acquainted with it. I will most definitely have pics of that. Once I have my fun, I should start working on the top of the case.
Well if it isn't my good friend the rain!
According to the local forecast, we will be spending the next few days together! Since all the work I need to do requires a well ventilated or outside area, and no humidity... it looks as if I am screwed until Thursday or Friday :-(
I will keep you all updated...
According to the local forecast, we will be spending the next few days together! Since all the work I need to do requires a well ventilated or outside area, and no humidity... it looks as if I am screwed until Thursday or Friday :-(
I will keep you all updated...
NotVery[H]
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2004
- Messages
- 394
Awsome work so far man.
SayNoToPistons
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2003
- Messages
- 1,122
nice work. have some fun with the deers, are they REAL?!?!
Ok, well it is nearing the end of Thursday. Today was finally clear skies and dry air. I was able to do some painting today. The hard drive cage was primed and color coated. In a day or so I will clear coat it (Same with the drive cage mounts). I did buy some DupliColor spatter paint and truck bed paint to see what kinds of textures I could get. The spatter paint was a bit too thick and bumpy for my needs, but the truck bed paint stuff was perfect! It has a small texture too it, much like a truck bed! Whoda thunk it?! After painting a piece of scrap metal with the truck bed paint, I found that it is extreeeemely durable and highly resistant to scratches. Because of this, I will be using it on the tabs of the drive cage and the mounts. That way, when inserting and removing the drive, no paint will get scratched off on accident.
I havent painted the rest of the cooling compartment yet because I still have some work to do on it. I need to make some holes where the PSU lines will go out and the IDE/SATA lines will go in. I have been planning it out today and tomorrow I might be able to work on that. Tomorrow I will also hopefully work with the fiberglass and see how that comes out. I may be slow, but I want this to be perfect. Thanks for not bitching and keep the comments coming
I havent painted the rest of the cooling compartment yet because I still have some work to do on it. I need to make some holes where the PSU lines will go out and the IDE/SATA lines will go in. I have been planning it out today and tomorrow I might be able to work on that. Tomorrow I will also hopefully work with the fiberglass and see how that comes out. I may be slow, but I want this to be perfect. Thanks for not bitching and keep the comments coming
TheMostWantedPolishTwin
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2000
- Messages
- 6,206
I'm really amazed.. can't wait to see how the engine cover will turn out..
Ok, well today I am working on the fiberglass! YAY! I did a single layer on a test piece. If it comes out well I will be able to use it in the mod, so I have my hopes. Fiberglass is a little different than I thought it would be. ALOT more mess and it is pretty hard to get around corners. I have to cut out pieces that will meet at the corners rather than a single piece that bends around. I have taken some pics and will post them later today after I do some more layers and dremeling I hope!
Well, unfortunately I was not able to do as much today as I had planned. I mentioned earlier that I primed the drive cages and the mounting mt. mount thingies, well the parts dried and I did the black color coat. A day and a half later (earlier today), I put a good layer of that fantastic DupliColor truck bed lining spray stuff. Now scratches will be impossible! BUAHAHAHAH *evil cackle* heh... ehh... yeah, so anyway Today that is drying and tomorrow I will probably clear coat the parts that don't have the truck lining finish. I only have a pic of the primed parts, nothing color coated or truck lining stuff. I might tomarrow.
After that, I finally got to my testing of FIBERGLASS! HURRAH!!! I got all my supplied together, must be prepared! I made sure that I had a respirator, plenty of disposable gloves and some goggles just incase.
First I went to Home Depot and got some insulating foam that I cut layered into a shape that the fiberglass could be molded on top of. I glued the layers together with Elmer's glue, nothing fancy. I then covered the entire mold in aluminum foil which the fiberglass shouldn't bond to too much. This session is just a test, to see how I work with the fiberglass. If it turns out well, I will be able to use what I have made. If not, I shall try again with my newfound knowledge of fiberglass!
I mixed the fiberglass jelly with a few drops of hardener in a plastic cup. My random choice of cup was a bad idea. The resin slowly softened the plastic and halfway through the project I realized that the bottom half of the cup was missing! So I used a cheap plastic container that some rivets came in (which are now neatly on my floor). I cut up a few strips of the fiberglass cloth to have them ready. I then coated the entire mold in the resin. I then placed a strip of cloth on, brushed more resin over it and made sure the resin soaked through the cloth. One thing to note about the brushes, I had to buy a bunch of really cheap ones. One you get the resin on the brush, it isn't coming off. Ever. I had to use two brushes for the first layer of fiberglass.
Since this is my first time with fiberglass, and really just a learning experience right now, I didn't do everything how it should have been done. One thing I learned was that the fiberglass cloth doesn't like tight corners. It isn't thin or flexible enough for a nice 90 degree turn. While I wasn't really expecting to achieve a perfect corner, I was able to get it decent enough. From now on though, I will have to cut smaller parts that will meet at the edges rather than trying to bend the cloth over the edges.
Working with fiberglass is also much more of a mess than I expected. I thought it would be messy, but not this bad! The fiberglass cloth is a fairly loose weave, so when pieces are cut, the resin likes to pull off strands of fiberglass as the cloth is put in place. Then the fiberglass gets on your hands (which damn well be in gloves) and when you use your fingers to push or poke an edge, a strand attaches itself to your finger and doesn't let go! It is worse that those Face Huggers from Aliens!!! Towards the end of the session, my fingers had annoying strands stuck all over them and a big pile of fiberglass strands which I was able to pull of my hands.
It is dark out now and the fiberglass isn't 100% dry, maybe 99%, but that isn't good enough! So tomorrow I will hopefully get to go at the beast with a dremel and then apply another layer. Wish me luck!
After that, I finally got to my testing of FIBERGLASS! HURRAH!!! I got all my supplied together, must be prepared! I made sure that I had a respirator, plenty of disposable gloves and some goggles just incase.
First I went to Home Depot and got some insulating foam that I cut layered into a shape that the fiberglass could be molded on top of. I glued the layers together with Elmer's glue, nothing fancy. I then covered the entire mold in aluminum foil which the fiberglass shouldn't bond to too much. This session is just a test, to see how I work with the fiberglass. If it turns out well, I will be able to use what I have made. If not, I shall try again with my newfound knowledge of fiberglass!
I mixed the fiberglass jelly with a few drops of hardener in a plastic cup. My random choice of cup was a bad idea. The resin slowly softened the plastic and halfway through the project I realized that the bottom half of the cup was missing! So I used a cheap plastic container that some rivets came in (which are now neatly on my floor). I cut up a few strips of the fiberglass cloth to have them ready. I then coated the entire mold in the resin. I then placed a strip of cloth on, brushed more resin over it and made sure the resin soaked through the cloth. One thing to note about the brushes, I had to buy a bunch of really cheap ones. One you get the resin on the brush, it isn't coming off. Ever. I had to use two brushes for the first layer of fiberglass.
Since this is my first time with fiberglass, and really just a learning experience right now, I didn't do everything how it should have been done. One thing I learned was that the fiberglass cloth doesn't like tight corners. It isn't thin or flexible enough for a nice 90 degree turn. While I wasn't really expecting to achieve a perfect corner, I was able to get it decent enough. From now on though, I will have to cut smaller parts that will meet at the edges rather than trying to bend the cloth over the edges.
Working with fiberglass is also much more of a mess than I expected. I thought it would be messy, but not this bad! The fiberglass cloth is a fairly loose weave, so when pieces are cut, the resin likes to pull off strands of fiberglass as the cloth is put in place. Then the fiberglass gets on your hands (which damn well be in gloves) and when you use your fingers to push or poke an edge, a strand attaches itself to your finger and doesn't let go! It is worse that those Face Huggers from Aliens!!! Towards the end of the session, my fingers had annoying strands stuck all over them and a big pile of fiberglass strands which I was able to pull of my hands.
It is dark out now and the fiberglass isn't 100% dry, maybe 99%, but that isn't good enough! So tomorrow I will hopefully get to go at the beast with a dremel and then apply another layer. Wish me luck!
I've done a bit of fiberglass work for my car (custom door speaker enclosures and working on a custom center console) and I have a few tips.. First of all, yeah its a freakin mess. If you're using the big thick rubber gloves like dishwashing gloves, ditch them - they aren't worth it and are difficult to work in...use some plain old disposable latext gloves...they're nice and tight so you can still use your hands well.
also, have a bucket with acetone in it handy and leave your brushes in that when not in use...it'll keep the resin from hardening and you can use it to clean wet resin off brushes (you can also use acetone to thin the mix of resin - add before you ad the MEKP and don't use a lot).
another thing that helps with the brushes is to have a few different ones on hand. I like having 4 to use: a 2", a 2" that has been cut down so the bristles are stiff, a 1" and a cut 1". The stiff bristles make it easy to work in the resin a lot of times.
you definately want to bend the cloth over the corners...much stronger. a little tip with cloth (and mat also)...get some 3m spray adhesive and glue down the a layer of cloth before you start with the resin..after about 10 minutes it'll stay on while you're putting the resin on but once its soaked it may start moving...just tends to make your first layer easier to work on
plastic buckets from home depot make good mixing containers. a small 16 oz plastic bucket is perfect really. and when mixing, use a paint stick or something wood. I personally prefer chopsticks. when you're done and you have extra resin in the bucket, leave the mixing tool in the resin and let it harden...then you can use it as a handle to pull the resin out - it doesn't stick to smooth plastic very well. and you can just break the chopstick or whatever off and use it again and again till it gets too short.
hope these help, I'll post any more tips I can think of later
oh yeah, you can also vary the amount of hardener you put in the resin to allow you to have more working time, or allow it to harden in 20 minutes if you want (i've done several small things where the part was ready to handle in about 45 minutes). again, don't use too much or it'll mess things up.
also, I noticed you have foil on the ground. grab one of those plastic dropcloth rolls you can get at home depot. resin will come right off of that cause its plastic. foil just is a tough time tearing it up when your part sticks to it (found that out the hard way). if you can't tell...plastic is the key
for forms, I've found that modeling clay works really well as long as its not warm outside whatver form you make, you can spray/brush it with cooking oil to aid in the release when its cured. of course you could also go buy PVA Mold release but that's not too easy to find and cooking oil works adequately
also, have a bucket with acetone in it handy and leave your brushes in that when not in use...it'll keep the resin from hardening and you can use it to clean wet resin off brushes (you can also use acetone to thin the mix of resin - add before you ad the MEKP and don't use a lot).
another thing that helps with the brushes is to have a few different ones on hand. I like having 4 to use: a 2", a 2" that has been cut down so the bristles are stiff, a 1" and a cut 1". The stiff bristles make it easy to work in the resin a lot of times.
you definately want to bend the cloth over the corners...much stronger. a little tip with cloth (and mat also)...get some 3m spray adhesive and glue down the a layer of cloth before you start with the resin..after about 10 minutes it'll stay on while you're putting the resin on but once its soaked it may start moving...just tends to make your first layer easier to work on
plastic buckets from home depot make good mixing containers. a small 16 oz plastic bucket is perfect really. and when mixing, use a paint stick or something wood. I personally prefer chopsticks. when you're done and you have extra resin in the bucket, leave the mixing tool in the resin and let it harden...then you can use it as a handle to pull the resin out - it doesn't stick to smooth plastic very well. and you can just break the chopstick or whatever off and use it again and again till it gets too short.
hope these help, I'll post any more tips I can think of later
oh yeah, you can also vary the amount of hardener you put in the resin to allow you to have more working time, or allow it to harden in 20 minutes if you want (i've done several small things where the part was ready to handle in about 45 minutes). again, don't use too much or it'll mess things up.
also, I noticed you have foil on the ground. grab one of those plastic dropcloth rolls you can get at home depot. resin will come right off of that cause its plastic. foil just is a tough time tearing it up when your part sticks to it (found that out the hard way). if you can't tell...plastic is the key
for forms, I've found that modeling clay works really well as long as its not warm outside
whatver form you make, you can spray/brush it with cooking oil to aid in the release when its cured. of course you could also go buy PVA Mold release but that's not too easy to find and cooking oil works adequatelyrogue_jedi
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
- Messages
- 4,821
wow nice set of tips. i'll have to save those incase i ever decide to work with fiberglass.
looks pretty good so far. can't wait to see what it ends up looking like.
looks pretty good so far. can't wait to see what it ends up looking like.
Wow! That is the kind of comment I like :-D
I have a box of latex gloves. Thankfully I heard about that before I actually tried it.
I put in a little less hardener than Bondo recommended since this was my first time. I didn't have a reference point for how long it would take to harden and I didn't want it to stiffen up too soon. But now I have a better idea of how long it takes and how much to put in.
This is hopefully the only mold I need to do that requires sharp corners. Everything else is pretty curvy. For the corners, I might do a small batch of resin with a generous amount of hardener and hold the cloth over the corner until it becomes stiff enough to hold it's shape. Then again, that still might be too long to sit there and hold it.
Thanks for the tips. They will definitely come in handy
I have a box of latex gloves. Thankfully I heard about that before I actually tried it.
I put in a little less hardener than Bondo recommended since this was my first time. I didn't have a reference point for how long it would take to harden and I didn't want it to stiffen up too soon. But now I have a better idea of how long it takes and how much to put in.
This is hopefully the only mold I need to do that requires sharp corners. Everything else is pretty curvy. For the corners, I might do a small batch of resin with a generous amount of hardener and hold the cloth over the corner until it becomes stiff enough to hold it's shape. Then again, that still might be too long to sit there and hold it.
Thanks for the tips. They will definitely come in handy
here is the speaker enclosure for the door..I made them to house a pair of Pioneer ts-a6969 6x9's and aim them for best sound quality (yes, that's 6x9's in the doors)
and here is the center console. its still very much a work in progress as I haven't gotten to work on it in quite a long while. one of these days I will finish it. sorry about the quality on this pic, my phone is my only camera currently...
and here's the car if you care
and a closeup of the console...
and here is the center console. its still very much a work in progress as I haven't gotten to work on it in quite a long while. one of these days I will finish it. sorry about the quality on this pic, my phone is my only camera currently...
and here's the car if you care
and a closeup of the console...
you definately want to wear long pants, long sleeves, gloves, goggles, repirator, everything. That fiberglass dust is NOT fun when it gets on your skin, in your eyes, or in your lungs (found that out the hard way too). when you're done I'd shake out the pants and shirt to get the majority of dust off and yeah, wash them separately from everything else.
also, I don't know if you're planning on more layers to that, but it would definately be a good idea. with just one layer of cloth, the part can warp once taken off the form. One layer of cloth is also surprisingly quite flexible...almost like thin plastic I would say. I would do maybe 2-3 layers of cloth, take it off the form, and then a quick layer or two of fiberglass mat on the underside (mat is strong than cloth, but more messy and tougher to get a perfect finish on so its easier to put it on the side that doesn't show).
also, I don't know if you're planning on more layers to that, but it would definately be a good idea. with just one layer of cloth, the part can warp once taken off the form. One layer of cloth is also surprisingly quite flexible...almost like thin plastic I would say. I would do maybe 2-3 layers of cloth, take it off the form, and then a quick layer or two of fiberglass mat on the underside (mat is strong than cloth, but more messy and tougher to get a perfect finish on so its easier to put it on the side that doesn't show).
JEEVES/whohasmyname?
Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2004
- Messages
- 696
I used to work in a door manufacturing shop. One day i was hard at work at my machine cutting and preping wood doors when my lungs started to hurt and my skin was all itchy. I tured around and looked through the white haze to see some of my co-workers cutting into fiberglass door frames! I was so pissed that no one told me before they started working on it. My nose bled for like a week after that, and my lungs still hurt (some). I would suggest as much protection as possible, I hate fiberglass .
JEEVES
. JEEVES
Well I decided to wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt. I also placed a huge vacuum hose on the wooden bench to pull out a lot of the dust. I then vacuumed my cloths before I took them off and stuck them in a plastic bag.
I wanted to get rid of some of the edges before I did a second layer (which is in the drying process right now). I still have a bit more on the second layer to do and then I might do a third layer. I did overlap a lot on the second layer, so I sorta have 2.5 layers right now :-P
Putting a layer on the inside is a good idea. I didn't think of that. Would clean up all the foil crap that will most likely be stuck to the inside.
Thanks for the continued tips and support
I wanted to get rid of some of the edges before I did a second layer (which is in the drying process right now). I still have a bit more on the second layer to do and then I might do a third layer. I did overlap a lot on the second layer, so I sorta have 2.5 layers right now :-P
Putting a layer on the inside is a good idea. I didn't think of that. Would clean up all the foil crap that will most likely be stuck to the inside.
Thanks for the continued tips and support
you can do more than one layer at a time if you want..it doesn't really matter. I would just suggest doing no more than 3-4 layers at a time since resin heats up when it cures (just like bondo) and the thicker to put it, the hotter it gets, and it could crack. of course since this isn't really anything that needs to be super strong I wouldn't think you would need to do more than 4 layers period
JEEVES, work with fiberglass resin for the first time and you'll hate it even more were those guys working on the fiberglass door wearing protection? if not I'd hate to be them. That's the one downside to this stuff..the fumes are horrible, the dust is even worse, and if you get enough of it in you it could be downright deadly.
JEEVES, work with fiberglass resin for the first time and you'll hate it even more
were those guys working on the fiberglass door wearing protection? if not I'd hate to be them. That's the one downside to this stuff..the fumes are horrible, the dust is even worse, and if you get enough of it in you it could be downright deadly. It's my first time, so I didn't want to do too much at once and accidentally slide the different layers around when applying a new layer. I did do quite a bit of overlapping though, I'm not trying to get a single perfect layer at a time :-P As I do more and more I will become more efficient (I hope).
BTW siege, you better stick around! You are a great resource ;-)
JEEVES, that is horrible! I hope you got some sort of compensation or at least got someone fired!
BTW siege, you better stick around! You are a great resource ;-)
JEEVES, that is horrible! I hope you got some sort of compensation or at least got someone fired!
ErrOnReq said:
yeah I figured you just didn't want to do too much at one time, which is understandable...hell, I don't even do more than 2 layers unless its something flat
I'm glad I can be of some help..usually on forums I can help but its generally "I've heard that..." or "I've read that..." or "I think..." this is one of those few topics I have a decent amount of personal experience on
I'd love to stick around and I'm sure I will this time. probably 3 or so years ago I was on these forums (same nick too) and I participated a bit and had a few mods to show off, but nothing big. I'm hoping this time around I'll be able to make more of an impact on the community.
and I was gonna say that to jeeves too but I forgot