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Mirror Finish..

D

D3DAiM

Limp Gawd
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
413
So, I've already wetsanded and polished with 3M Perfect It III Rubbing Compound. Right now I have a pretty decent mirror finish.

I want to enhance it's effect further.

In my garage I have some 3M Hand Glaze, some carnuba wax, and clear coat. In what order would I apply these?

Does the clear coat enhance the reflection or diminish it? Do I need to wetsand the clear coat (if I do, I will skip it).

Thanks everyone!
 
The clear coat first, and then after a long time, the wax and glaze can be used if nessesary. The clear coat takes quite a bit of time to be ready for that though.
 
Clear coat... Then wax.

But... Let the clear coat sit for a good 2-3 weeks before waxing it!
 
Think of your case as being a car....
Primer -> Paint -> Clear coat -> Wax & Polish.

Obviously while your polishing... take your time and do it carefully, being especially cautious around corners and edges (as the paint/clear coat is usually thinner in these areas).
 
Alright guys, thanks.

Does the clear coat need to be sanded?

Also, does the glaze wash off, because of one part of my computer I already applied some glaze to the base coat. I wouldn't want to clear coat something with glaze on it I bet.

Thank you all!
 
Clear coat should be sanded LIGHTLY with 2000grit sandpaper (all in one direction, like lapping a HSF), then polished (a good 4 hrs or so :p) with a rubbing compound before waxing. It should haze a bit during sanding.

I've never used glaze, so I have no idea... sorry!
 
We talking rattle can paint or?

I second the waiting to wax it. Let it cure before you do anything in that way.

Perfect It III is a white compound right? If you're using a light color, that's fine. If it's a dark color you may want to look at foam pad glaze for dark colors.
 
Qtip42 said:
I second the waiting to wax it. Let it cure before you do anything in that way.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I waxxed my case a weak after clear coating it, and the finish went all "wavy" on me. Wait at least 2-3 weeks.
 
This sounds like a pretty difficult process. Would you mind posting pictures of the finished product?
 
jordan172005 said:
This sounds like a pretty difficult process. Would you mind posting pictures of the finished product?
Click to expand...

Nope, I wouldn't mind. My camera, however, does mind. I CANT get a good shot of a paint finish... I need a better camera, but since I take <45 pics a year, its just not worth it.
 
Well, I think I skip the clear coating and just go strait to the glaze/wax

I'm crunched on time, this is for a competition.

Thank you everyone.
 
if it's for a competition, you should get something professional on there :D like auto paint.
 
Qtip42 said:
if it's for a competition, you should get something professional on there :D like auto paint.
Click to expand...

I don't like car rattle cans... The "conical" spray pattern, I think, leaves some areas that appear at different heights... I blame it on the pattern because regular paint sprayers don't do this for me.

I'm not that experienced though, but I've done a few cases, auto paint always turned out worse for me (but have better colours, so bleh).
 
no no no, you're confusing auto paint (hvlp spray gun/compressor) with rattle can.

I was saying to use a professional finish like that you'd see on a car, if he were to compete in a competition with it.
 
Qtip42 said:
no no no, you're confusing auto paint (hvlp spray gun/compressor) with rattle can.

I was saying to use a professional finish like that you'd see on a car, if he were to compete in a competition with it.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was definitely confused... Whoops :rolleyes:

My spray gun jobs have ALWAYS turned out fairly awesome.
 
Yeah, I just went rattle can. I was not prepared or experienced enough with professional auto paint, nor do I have the materials/tools heh..

Tell you the truth, the paint job came as a late thought. I've been following mnpctech's guide almost exactly...with a few of my own flips.
 
D3DAiM said:
Well, I think I skip the clear coating and just go strait to the glaze/wax

I'm crunched on time, this is for a competition.

Thank you everyone.
Click to expand...

Sounded like you had already made up your mind. Anyway, if you painted the case for a competition, then you don't have time to clear coat anyway, because as others have already mentioned, you have to let the clear coat "cure" for quite some time.

So just wax / glaze it. I'm sure it looks groovy. Wish you could post some pictures.

I clear coated my case, sanded, used rubbing compound, then waxed ... and I still did not get the finish I wanted. It takes a lot of patience and practice to get a perfect finish!
 
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