Milky white build-up on Tygon tubing

[dinofx35]

Has anyone else had issues with film collecting inside their tygon tubing? It might be because of the teflon tape I used where I sealed my T-line, but the water level is rarely high enough to contact that tape, and I can't imagine it could coat my entire loop like it has.

 

[DFI Daishi]

do you have mixed metals in the loop?

what additive are you using?

how long since you filled the loop?

i've never had tygon go cloudy on me. my clearflex 60 has, but not the tygon. that's even when both types of tubing are in the loop at once: the tygon stays clear.

 

[Eastcoasthandle]

it has been my experience that the clear T melted do to the high concentration of water wetter. I had to drain and clean the tubes. When I places the T in my had the white stuff cam e off on my hand.

 

[CricketCorpse]

a 5% zerex solution put made my tygon go cloudy starting about 4 weeks after install, and then an odd 'orange' color. this picture is after about a year.


a previous mix of ~10% water wetter turned the clear flex I had to opaque in days.

water wetter is know to screw up your tubing, stay away.

my loop is described in my sig. I remember reading somewhere that the zerex/additive creates a layer of 'film' on the internals of the loop, to help prevent corrossion. from my experience, I can't seem to keep any tubing clear in my loop

i gave up and went with the red colored primoflex tubing.



edit: typos

 

[Imitation]

I just redid my loop to add a gpu block in a new case and I noticed that I had a white film inside all the tubing. I run a swiftech system so I'm not sure what type of tubing is in it other than its 7/16 instead of 1/2. It came off when I put my finger insided it. But once I redid the loop with some old tubing and some new and filled it up, you can't even tell. I used their hydrex additive. It could be where your distilled water comes from too, some might be cleaner than others. Just a thought. You're not alone.

 

[dinofx35]

I am using Swiftech HydrX Coolant. I think anyone with fittings and a copper block has mixed metals. My fittings are aluminum (PolarFlo) and chrome (DangerDen).The cap to my T-line is brass or copper (Home Depot), but it does not contact the coolant.

I cleaned off all the film using a 3/8" OD nylon ice-maker water line. It was easy to remove, but I want to avoid it coming back since it ruins the UV effect.

The film did not appear to collect on copper, fittings, nylon fittings, nor inside my DDC12 pump. I noticed the spherical bearing inside the pump is white. I sure hope that's just a coincidence.

 

[madmat]

The D.D. metal fittings are chromed brass and don't pose a problem. Neither do brass fittings but the alloy body of the D.D. fillport and bare alloy fittings can cause problems if you don't use a proper level of anti-corrosion additive.

 

[Nettwerk]

The white film is from the radiator. They dont clean them out when they ship them to resellers so you have to soak it in vinegar to get all the solder and flux crap out of it.