• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Looking to setup my first WC

M

MuZI

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
344
I have an old machine w/ an E4300 and 8600 GTS card. I was searching around the web and saw this:

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss20/elbatcho/tech bench/BlackIce025.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss20/elbatcho/tech bench/BlackIce027.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss20/elbatcho/tech bench/BlackIce028.jpg

I really like the way it looks aesthetically and want to set up something similar.

I won't be OCing the Proc or Video Card and I'm mostly doing this because it looks good.

Can someone recommend how to get started?

What size res would I need? pump? and what blocks are good?
 
Res size doesn't matter. The res in the photos is a res & DDC 2.5 pump top combo unit. As for blocks, the XSPC Rasa is the best bang for the buck right now.
 
FaRKle0079 said:
Res size doesn't matter. The res in the photos is a res & DDC 2.5 pump top combo unit. As for blocks, the XSPC Rasa is the best bang for the buck right now.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I meant to say rad size.

Also is there anything cheaper than the Rasa?
 
So I plan on using 1/2'' barbs and was wondering what type of piping do I use?

Do I use 1/2'' ID or something smalled so it's tighter?
 
MuZI said:
So I plan on using 1/2'' barbs and was wondering what type of piping do I use?

Do I use 1/2'' ID or something smalled so it's tighter?
Click to expand...

stick with the 1/2" ID and get yourself some worm drive clamps or spend the extra money and get quality compression fittings (be careful, 1/2" ID compression fittings can be pretty big)
 
MuZI said:
So I plan on using 1/2'' barbs and was wondering what type of piping do I use?

Do I use 1/2'' ID or something smalled so it's tighter?
Click to expand...

The fittings you see in those pictures you posted are compression fittings - although they're much more expensive than barbs.

If you're going to use barbs, some people still prefer tubing slightly more narrow than the barb itself. You can use 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs and have a very tight seal. I'd still advise using some sort of clamp or zip tie for extra security though.
 
gpitpitan said:
stick with the 1/2" ID and get yourself some worm drive clamps or spend the extra money and get quality compression fittings (be careful, 1/2" ID compression fittings can be pretty big)
Click to expand...

sn0man said:
The fittings you see in those pictures you posted are compression fittings - although they're much more expensive than barbs.

If you're going to use barbs, some people still prefer tubing slightly more narrow than the barb itself. You can use 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs and have a very tight seal. I'd still advise using some sort of clamp or zip tie for extra security though.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice guys. I did some research on compression fittings and found out the 1/2'' ones are too big to fit on my cpu waterblock because they would be way too close to eachother. I could use angled ones but I'm not entirely sure they would work.

I'll stick to barbs for now. Would I be able to use 1/2'' tubing and just use clamps like http://www.jab-tech.com/Plastic-Tubing-Clamps-Black-pr-3522.html ?? or should I go for the 7/16'' just in case?

I wouldn't mind using worm drive clamps if I can spray paint them black.
 
Use clamps either way.

1/2" tubing on a 1/2" barb is fine, or like I said you can go slightly tighter-fitting and use 7/16".
 
those plastic tube clamps suck ass. They work for awhile but wear you can wear out those plastic teeth too. I have a few, i trust the worm drives more, even if they are a little more hassle to put on and look kinda ghetto (could always spray paint them black or something lol)
 
Well I went ahead and ordered most of the parts. The only thing left I'm looking for is what to put in the water. Should I use something like PT Nuke or has anyone here used one of those silver springs that supposedly kill growth of bacteria/algae?
 
MuZI said:
Well I went ahead and ordered most of the parts. The only thing left I'm looking for is what to put in the water. Should I use something like PT Nuke or has anyone here used one of those silver springs that supposedly kill growth of bacteria/algae?
Click to expand...

Alot of ppl have recently been using silver "kill coils" or something like that. Otherwise pt nuke or an antifreeze like pentosin works as well. I think my loop is 10% pentosin G11 and distilled and I've never had any growth or blockage issues. So both work fine, just personal preference I think is what it really comes down to. Same for barbs vs compression fittings, purely for looks I think most would agree compression is the only way to go, but barbs are way cheaper esp if you have alot of connections.

Having said that I'd highly recommend 7/16 tubing over metal barbs if you're not going compression fittings. The seal is pretty much water tight without clamps with minimal extra effort to get them on if you heat the ends of the tubing with hot water first. I'd still use clamps tho.
 
Will the 1/2'' barbs come with Silicone O-Rings or should I go buy some... and where?

Will I have to use grease or anything on the O-Rings?
 
Go with PT Nuke and distilled water. It's the simplest solution. Also post pics of your loop when completed.
O-rings come complete with every barb. You also need to pair barbs with clamps to prevent leakage.
Comp fittings look much sexier but are also more expensive.
You don't need to grease the o-rings... I have no idea where you got that idea from. Just don't do it.
 
Last edited:
vjcsmoke said:
Go with PT Nuke and distilled water. It's the simplest solution. Also post pics of your loop when completed.
O-rings come complete with every barb. You also need to pair barbs with clamps to prevent leakage.
Comp fittings look much sexier but are also more expensive.
You don't need to grease the o-rings... I have no idea where you got that idea from. Just don't do it.
Click to expand...

Should I add the PT Nuke 24 hours after testing the look to make sure there isn't a leak or add it before that?

I work with mechanical/diver watches and the O-Rings used on those are greased to ensure a proper seal and make sure no water gets in... or in this case no water gets out. I was just wondering if it was the same in this scenario.
 
I'd disagree on PT Nuke and recommend a silver coil instead. It's just personal preference, but in my opinion that is the simplest solution.

I don't like the thought of any additives in my loop.
 
IMAG0156.jpg

IMAG0157.jpg


It's a mess right now... tested it for 24 hours and got it on the computer... it leaked twice once I got it on there. I guess I wasn't careful enough. Finally got it running then 5 minutes later motherboard died.

In 9 years of putting computers together I've never had such a series of bad luck...
 
MuZI said:
Should I add the PT Nuke 24 hours after testing the look to make sure there isn't a leak or add it before that?

I work with mechanical/diver watches and the O-Rings used on those are greased to ensure a proper seal and make sure no water gets in... or in this case no water gets out. I was just wondering if it was the same in this scenario.
Click to expand...

I add the PT Nuke after I've done the leak testing and bleeding.

MuZI said:
IMAG0156.jpg

IMAG0157.jpg


It's a mess right now... tested it for 24 hours and got it on the computer... it leaked twice once I got it on there. I guess I wasn't careful enough. Finally got it running then 5 minutes later motherboard died.

In 9 years of putting computers together I've never had such a series of bad luck...
Click to expand...

Umm your motherboard should NOT be plugged in when you're doing the leak testing. I thought that was common sense. After you have confirmed that there are no leaks, you leave the loop running overnight without the mobo or any other components but the pump plugged in.

Can you describe exactly what you did? I'm not getting you here.
 
vjcsmoke said:
I add the PT Nuke after I've done the leak testing and bleeding.



Umm your motherboard should NOT be plugged in when you're doing the leak testing. I thought that was common sense. After you have confirmed that there are no leaks, you leave the loop running overnight without the mobo or any other components but the pump plugged in.

Can you describe exactly what you did? I'm not getting you here.
Click to expand...

When I was leak testing the loop I had it running by itself nowhere near the mobo. I did the paper clip thing and let the loop run 24 hours with paper towels underneath it. After jiggling with it to make sure nothing leaked I then attached the cpu block on the mobo. I must have twisted a ube too much because all of a sudden I see drops of water after 2-3 mins. I look at the cpu block and one of the barbs seemed loose. I quickly turned it off and then tightened the barb. Later on I turned the mobo back on and it worked for 5 mins but then when I restarted it there was no video. The mobo lights turn on and when I attach hard drives and hsf they power up. It's just the usb that works for a sec then dies. I'm not too concerned since I knew I'd break something setting everything up. They were backup parts to begin with.
 
The clamps look like they're riding pretty high on your tubing/fittings there. Move them down to the base of the barbs, at the end of where the tubing is attached.
 
sn0man said:
The clamps look like they're riding pretty high on your tubing/fittings there. Move them down to the base of the barbs, at the end of where the tubing is attached.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I noticed that. I fixed it later on.
Thanks
 
MuZI said:
When I was leak testing the loop I had it running by itself nowhere near the mobo. I did the paper clip thing and let the loop run 24 hours with paper towels underneath it. After jiggling with it to make sure nothing leaked I then attached the cpu block on the mobo. I must have twisted a ube too much because all of a sudden I see drops of water after 2-3 mins. I look at the cpu block and one of the barbs seemed loose. I quickly turned it off and then tightened the barb. Later on I turned the mobo back on and it worked for 5 mins but then when I restarted it there was no video. The mobo lights turn on and when I attach hard drives and hsf they power up. It's just the usb that works for a sec then dies. I'm not too concerned since I knew I'd break something setting everything up. They were backup parts to begin with.
Click to expand...

Right, well that's not really what you're supposed to do. You have to do the leak testing with the stuff mounted but nothing plugged in on the mobo, just the pump runing. When you did the new mounting you run the risk of leaks. So moving it defeated the leak testing. You don't want to turn everything on for the first time and essentially not have leaked proofed it as it is going to be used.

So you killed a mobo you weren't going to use for your system anyways? That's somewhat of a relief. Still sucks but now you'll know how to do it better. LOL.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top