• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Looking for computer speakers

S

snayberry

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
11
Hello guys, I'm new to the forum and wanted to ask what are good computer speakers to buy for my room? It's not that big of a room and I really use the speakers to listen to electronic music like deep house, trance etc. I also watch movies occasionally on my computer also. Thanks a ton! Budget is $350.00
 
The Audioengine A5+ are amazing at $399. Really genuinely amazing. A little above your budget though. Their A2 are also very good, but smaller and won't go as deep or loud.

There's a pair of used A5+ on Amazon for about $340 shipped. That's worth considering.
 
I was looking at those but I heard the mixed reviews. I ended up blowing all of my speakers, so I need a new pair. I want to try the bookshelf route and getting an amp with it. I'm new to all of that.
 
The Behringer B1030a is a very nice active studio monitor well-suited to computer use. You don't need an external amp, since they have a very good internal active bi-amp system inside each speaker. They are very accurate and run about $115 per speaker.
 
kumquat said:
The Behringer B1030a is a very nice active studio monitor well-suited to computer use. You don't need an external amp, since they have a very good internal active bi-amp system inside each speaker. They are very accurate and run about $115 per speaker.
Click to expand...

Would that be your best choice for me? Could I add a sub too?
 
do you have room for a sub?

cause with your music taste not sure how powered monitors or Bookshelf speakers + t-amp or receiver will work out.


not without it's pitfalls but used speakers can be a real bargain..... I am listening to at my desk now to a pair of JBL L1 bookshelf speakers (i paid $40 for the pair - perfect working order // decent cosmetics)... now they things are pretty dang big however the have 6.5" woofers ... i have them hooked up to a vintage Pioneer SA-710 integrated amp ($120) it also is someone large~ish and heavy but not that big or heavy by vintage standards certainly) I have a Polk Audio PSW10 subwoofer (new $90) hooked up to the SA-710 also.

now this set up can do quite well with the music you like....if i liked it that much (no offense) i listen to mostly classic rock / heavy metal and some country and bluegrass..to each their own eh?

in addition to the aforementioned stuff I have a much more compact speaker set up on the other side of my desk

it consists of SMSL SA-S3 t-amp and Polk T15 speakers (the amp was $60 shipped and the T15s cost $50 on sale).... if i didn't have the vintage stuff on the other side I would certainly want a sub with the t-amp and smallish polk T15 speakers...


but if you want a nice solid new setup t-amp + bookshelf speakers + (ideally) subwoofer is would be quite nice.


I have hooked my $40 JBL L1s to my t-amp also and they did quite well with that also... (these where $800 speakers when new apparently... i think that was street not MSRP btw... won't swear to it..but they are nice made in America speakers which i love very much.... but just to show the sort of bargains you can find sometimes on vintage speakers but you need luck and patience really)


powered speakers such as the previously mentioned A5's are another option indeed .... if you have a guitar center near you they have a decent number of studio monitors set up you can listen to as well.... I listened to teh Tannoy Reveal 501A monitors there $179~ish each... and they sounded quite good to me... my favorite of the stuff I checked out for sure.


if you have the room i suggest 6.5" woofers at least and a sub ...
 
oh if you play stuff loud enough that you have been blowing speakers a t-amp might not be for you... the t-amps do good with reasonable listening levels but you can start clipping if you go nuts with the volume..

but something like this would be smaller than a vintage amp /receiver and has more power 75WPC

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-812

gets generally favorable reviews i haven't heard it myself.
 
Atarione, thanks for breaking it down for me and responding to this post. I just saw some reviews for the Tannoy's and they were mixed, plus same said too fatiguing to the ears after awihle.

These are my current speakers and they sound like crap now. Logitech Z623
 
..hmm... well i think if you read reviews for almost anything you'll find that you can't please everyone

I listened to the Tannoy's for about 3 songs cause i was thinking damn these are really nice when i was a guitar center... Ideally if you have a guitar center near you go listen for yourself they have a bunch so you can A/B a bunch of stuff ... for me the tannoy's sound the best of what they had and sounded quite good in general..


if you go separates (amp + speakers + Sub) you can upgrade one piece of the other as $ / opportunities arise whereas if you go powered speakers you have to basically start over if you want to upgrade.

basically anything mentioned so far will kill those Z623's however SQ wise..


oh this is my vintage stuff ... (mostly cause I like showing it off... but also for some perspective on the sort of room you need for it).


edit..oh yeah you can see one of the T15 bookshelf speakers in that pic as you can see they are much smaller than the JBL L1's the polks have 5 1/4" drivers
 
Last edited:
Exactly that's how my room is lol. So I don't know what to get ahhhhh. I'm ready to order stuff online but don't know what to order.
 
Whatever you do, don't get Polk T15s. Fairly appropriate for super budget home theater but not for computer use.

A T-amp paired with some unpowered bookshelf speakers is an option, but the T-amps tend to pretty easily pick up background noise and hum. They also won't play loud at all unless you have very high sensitivity speakers.

What do you have for a sound card?
 
yeah fair enough .... don't go out of your way to end up with the T15s .... I have Polk Monitor 30IIs in a box I'd rather be using but the T15s are the only thing (i have )that will fit to the sides of my monitors right now.

as long as there is a sub the T15s are actually not bad at all.... i prefer other speakers to them but they are not bad at all.


pricing right now on value bookshelf speakers is kind of ass ...also... before xmas there had been some pretty killer deals but looking at amazon and newegg right now it is pretty solidly ---meh.

maybe these?

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-D...358213311&sr=8-11&keywords=bookshelf+speakers

$115 BIC America DV62si


or of course the dayton B652

$30 but out of stock till the 31st =\

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-652


i don't know ... my monitor 30 II speakers cost $69 on sale and they are great for that apparently the new version is monitor 35b but they are $150 at newegg right now.. not sure if i'd pay that for them.

with the choices right now ... personally i'd be tempted to start scouting craiglist for used speakers ... but of course dealing with CL is kind of a pain in the ass.

I got my JBL's at an estate sale...
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
That would be a really good setup. There are a number of very good DACs on Amazon for about $30.
 
Yep i have the D3 myself its a decent dac. How much room are you working with op?
 
You could get the A5+ and see how they sound before adding the sub. You might very well be happy with them. I have a full home theater setup in the living room with a monster sub, but on the computer I am plenty happy with my Audyssey 2.0 speakers.
 
I just realized the A5+ are better 5-7 ft away from you and I would be listening to these as near fields. I might have to get stands and place them further away from me and my computer.
 
I really don't think that'll be an issue. I've listened to them nearfield (2.5-3 feet away) and they sounded great to me. If you're really concerned about it the Behringers are specifically designed for accurate nearfield listening.
 
I'm going to throw in a suggestion for the ARX A1b. I have been using the A1's for a few years now, since they had the Acculine branding on them.They are phenomenal for desktop speakers. If you do some searching you will find that they are built to reduce distortion, many reviewers had trouble being able to reproduce any at all.

From what you said you are looking for I know for certain you would not be disappointed by these. Should my A1's ever fail the A1b's will be on their way to my house that same day.
 
HeavensCloud said:
I'm going to throw in a suggestion for the ARX A1b. I have been using the A1's for a few years now, since they had the Acculine branding on them.They are phenomenal for desktop speakers. If you do some searching you will find that they are built to reduce distortion, many reviewers had trouble being able to reproduce any at all.

From what you said you are looking for I know for certain you would not be disappointed by these. Should my A1's ever fail the A1b's will be on their way to my house that same day.
Click to expand...

Man i forgot about those bad boys. Good speakers.
 
The Emotiva Pro Airmotiv 5 should also be considered, but this is the last day they're on sale.

http://emotivapro.com/products/powered_monitors/airmotiv5.php

airmotiv5.jpg


Powered Studio Monitor | was: $449 | now: $399 (pair)!

motiv5_front.jpg


motiv5_left.jpg


motiv5_back.jpg


motiv5_amp.jpg


Frequency Response
  • 52 Hz to 23 kHz +/- 2 dB
  • 50 Hz to 27 kHz +0 / -6 dB

Input Connectors
  • One single ended (RCA)
  • One professional balanced (XLR)

Bass Alignment
  • Single rear-oriented port (linear taper)

Power Source
  • 120 VAC 50/60 Hz +/- 10% available
    230 VAC 50/60 Hz +/- 10% available
    (specify at time of order)
  • IEC standard removable power cord

Size (each)
  • 273 mm high x 180 mm wide x 210 mm deep
    (10.7" high x 7.1" wide x 8.3" deep)

Size (pair, packaged)
  • 473 mm long x 291 mm wide x 373 mm high
    (18.6" long x 11.5" wide x 14.7" high)

Weight (net):
  • 26.45 lbs. (12kg) per pair

Weight (packaged):
  • 31.5 lbs. (14.3 kg) per pair

Driver Complement
  • One 26 x 32 mm airmotiv high-frequency folded-ribbon transducer
  • One 135 mm (5.25 inch) airmotiv low-frequency transducer with Curv® polypropolene composite cone structure

Amplification
  • Total amplifier power:
    100 watts RMS

High-frequency amplifier:
  • 50 watts RMS; S/N > 95 dB; THD+N < 0.05% @ 15W, 10 kHz

Low-frequency amplifier:
  • 50 watts RMS; S/N > 95 dB; THD+N < 0.05% @ 40W, 100 Hz

Adjustments and Calibrations
  • High frequency tilt control:
    4 kHz hinge frequency; 0 (calibrated), +2 dB, -2 dB @ 20 kHz

  • Low frequency shelving control:
    150 Hz turnover frequency; 0 (calibrated), -2 dB, -4 dB @ 20 Hz

  • HF gain, LF gain, and overall gain calibrated to standard within 1.0 dB

Crossover
  • Precision multi-pole phase compensated fully active crossover
  • Crossover frequency: 2700 Hz

Mounting
  • The airmotiv 5 has mounting points on the bottom for use with our (optional) mounting bracket.
 
Most of the speakers mentioned here run rings around the Polk Monitor series for desktop and/or music use.
 
I really appreciate all the responses I have got so far, makes it a really hard decision for me. I was ready to jump at the a5+ and s8 combo. Now the Emotiv's Airmotiv-5 and ARX A1B, I don't know what to get again.
 
atarione said:
oh if you play stuff loud enough that you have been blowing speakers a t-amp might not be for you... the t-amps do good with reasonable listening levels but you can start clipping if you go nuts with the volume..

but something like this would be smaller than a vintage amp /receiver and has more power 75WPC

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-812

gets generally favorable reviews i haven't heard it myself.
Click to expand...

That's 75 watts at 4ohm, it is more like a 50wpc amp at 8ohm (where most speakers are)

With a smal budget I'd tell the OP to look on craigslist. An older receiver from about 10 years ago and some older speakers.
 
snayberry said:
I really appreciate all the responses I have got so far, makes it a really hard decision for me. I was ready to jump at the a5+ and s8 combo. Now the Emotiv's Airmotiv-5 and ARX A1B, I don't know what to get again.
Click to expand...

Best thing to do is to go and listen to various types of speakers.

Bigger drivers usually means bigger bass, silk dome tweeters offer a smoother treble than aluminum or titanium, which offer a smoother treble than horn loaded.

Buying blind off the internet will probably leave you disatisfied unless you at least know the types of speaker you prefer, personally I only like silk domed tweeters. Those Emotiva powered ones have ribbon tweeters, I've never heard a set of ribbons but a lot of people say they are very good. On the downside they are 50 watts RMS which may not be enough if you blow up speakers and have a 5.25" driver which is not going to give you much in the way of real bass... Not a problem if you can add a sub, but I don't know that you can with powered monitors.

If you buy powered speakers you have to replace the whole thing if you are unhappy, buying an amp and passive speakers mean you can switch out just one part if you are unhappy.

I was able to pick up a Denon 3803 for $80 a couple of months ago, that was an expensive receiver 10 years ago, something like $1300. There are a lot of good deals out there if you are patient. Sound tech doesn't change much, especially if you are interested only in stereo.
 
Crossover, driver configuration, and geometry/waveguides have a lot more impact "smoothness" than material.
 
kumquat said:
Crossover, driver configuration, and geometry/waveguides have a lot more impact "smoothness" than material.
Click to expand...

A waveguide speaker... You mean a horn loaded speaker? What I said.... They are efficient but to my ears they are harsh and horrid, too much sibilance. Material is important, buit yes there are many factors, most of which won't come into play for a set of budget bookshelves

Crossovers are important, but you are going to get low end crossovers on budget speakers if you are lucky, many speakers in this range might just use a single electrolytic cap to filter out the lower frequencies to the tweeter.

The thickness of the cabinet is important, but most speakers in this price range will use 1/2" mdf unless they are made out of plastic (more likely with powered monitors)

Driver configuration on every speaker listed is Tweeter, Mid... Only on larger bookshelves or floorstanders is driver configuration going to make much of a difference. I noticed some of the polks listsed are TMM rather than MTM, I'd be interested in seeing how that affects the sound.

These things are all worth considering, but the best way anybody is going to find out what they like is by listening to as many different speakers as they can. $350 is no money for new stuff really, but used it can get you much further.
 
counterpoint said:
That's 50 watts RMS per driver. 100 watts per speaker total, I believe, unless I'm reading that wrong.
Click to expand...

50 watts per driver in this case is 50 watts per channel, that's how most things are measured. If you were comparing it to a stand alone amp it would be the equivalent of 50 wpc.

Emotiva makes some great stuff though. If the OP can integrate a sub they might be all he needs, but I'm not sure how he could do that without running over budget and he would also be using onboard sound unless he has a soundcard or DAC.. which is more cash, although I guess he can add over time.
 
matteos said:
A waveguide speaker... You mean a horn loaded speaker?
Click to expand...

No. A horn would be a very specific type of waveguide. Waveguides come in many forms. Typically, when you see the tweeter suppressed into the baffle, that's a waveguide. When the baffle is curved inward or otherwise non-parallel to the plane of the driver, there's a waveguide. Look at a picture of the Behringer 1030 or Audioengine A5+ and you will see a waveguide around the tweeter.


matteos said:
They are efficient but to my ears they are harsh and horrid, too much sibilance. Material is important, buit yes there are many factors, most of which won't come into play for a set of budget bookshelves
Click to expand...

As noted you are talking about horns here, not waveguides in general. And my response would be that you simply have had experience only with low quality horns/compression drivers. There's nothing inherent about a horn that creates "sibilance." However, many low-end speakers that use horns to increase sensitivity are poorly designed and use low-quality drivers. The horns really amplify these issues.

Some very expensive, and very very good sounding speakers use horns. The B&C DE250 compression driver can sound exceptionally smooth when paired with an appropriate horn in a well-designed space. All the speakers in your local theater or IMAX use horns. And of course all the HF drivers at a concert or other venue are horn-loaded.

Do a Google search for THX Ultra2 speakers, and you will see that the vast majority of them are horn-loaded.
 
matteos said:
50 watts per driver in this case is 50 watts per channel, that's how most things are measured. If you were comparing it to a stand alone amp it would be the equivalent of 50 wpc.

Emotiva makes some great stuff though. If the OP can integrate a sub they might be all he needs, but I'm not sure how he could do that without running over budget and he would also be using onboard sound unless he has a soundcard or DAC.. which is more cash, although I guess he can add over time.
Click to expand...

No, it's a total of 100 watts per channel.

Each individual speaker (channel) is internally actively bi-amped, meaning only the actual signal that goes to each individual driver is amplified. This is actually in contrast to the kind of passive bi-amping you can do with a conventional speaker that has two sets of terminals in the back, where each amplified signal is fed through a passive crossover that throws away the high or low input.

In other words, the LF driver gets 50 watts of only LF input. In a traditional passive bi-amp situation, the LF drivers would get 50 watts of full-range input minus the HF input, leaving you with <50 watts of actual input.
 
Equator D5, spend the rest on Auralex pads and some DIY corner bass traps.
 
kumquat said:
No. A horn would be a very specific type of waveguide. Waveguides come in many forms. Typically, when you see the tweeter suppressed into the baffle, that's a waveguide. When the baffle is curved inward or otherwise non-parallel to the plane of the driver, there's a waveguide. Look at a picture of the Behringer 1030 or Audioengine A5+ and you will see a waveguide around the tweeter.




As noted you are talking about horns here, not waveguides in general. And my response would be that you simply have had experience only with low quality horns/compression drivers. There's nothing inherent about a horn that creates "sibilance." However, many low-end speakers that use horns to increase sensitivity are poorly designed and use low-quality drivers. The horns really amplify these issues.

Some very expensive, and very very good sounding speakers use horns. The B&C DE250 compression driver can sound exceptionally smooth when paired with an appropriate horn in a well-designed space. All the speakers in your local theater or IMAX use horns. And of course all the HF drivers at a concert or other venue are horn-loaded.

Do a Google search for THX Ultra2 speakers, and you will see that the vast majority of them are horn-loaded.
Click to expand...

You are correct about the emotiva, I misread because they divided it up, they are 100 wpc,

I'd say harsh highs and excessive sibilance are inherent in a budget to midrange horn loaded driver... But with enough money you can overcome most of these characteristics... like you can with most issues, so yeah maybe a system costing upwards of $20k is not going to have these problems, but a system of $350 will do and this is the budget we are talking about.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top