tehandydumke
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2004
- Messages
- 255
I thought I heard someone say they used liquit nitrogen in there WC'ed system. Can you do that and does it make it alot cooler?
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Liquid Nitrogen?
- Thread starter tehandydumke
- Start date
youre like the new metallica_band
1) google it, lots of info
but since you dont know..
no, thats not what they did. what people do is make metal containers that sit on top of their procs, basically big metal cups, and pour liquid nitrogen in as needed. theyre padded as fuck to avoid condensation. people can reportadly get stupidly high overclocks (talkin 4+ ghz) but the cost of it (liquid N2 isnt exactly free or cheap) makes it not at all practical
there are some who have done phase change with freon but thats a huge bastard to set up, its not just freon in a WC system
1) google it, lots of info
but since you dont know..
no, thats not what they did. what people do is make metal containers that sit on top of their procs, basically big metal cups, and pour liquid nitrogen in as needed. theyre padded as fuck to avoid condensation. people can reportadly get stupidly high overclocks (talkin 4+ ghz) but the cost of it (liquid N2 isnt exactly free or cheap) makes it not at all practical
there are some who have done phase change with freon but thats a huge bastard to set up, its not just freon in a WC system
tehandydumke
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2004
- Messages
- 255
maybe just to take a screen shot and brag to your friends 
but then again you could just photoshop it :\
but then again you could just photoshop it :\
tehandydumke
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2004
- Messages
- 255
rofl. ya im 213374U
Ludemaster
n00b
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2001
- Messages
- 34
LN2 is only like 2-5 bucks a liter dude....in CT its 2.40 where i get it.....which is about 7 bucks a gallon not bad...thing is its temp....i get it in a 15 liter dewar...which usually lasts a day. its great for stupid overclocks 4ghz being the minimum...but if u mess up any settings ur pretty much just frying hardware at that point the extreme cold/hot isnt good for your stuff...ive lost a mobo before due to condensation and have had to wait a couple hours for ice to defrost from pci slots which pretty much ruins the LN2 u got waiting in the container.
as for the freon system those are easy trust me i got 3....phase change noob friendly...then you can think of gas changes (404A or 507) for added temps.....or ur own custom phasechange or cascade system (multi-stage/compressor).
as for the freon system those are easy trust me i got 3....phase change noob friendly...then you can think of gas changes (404A or 507) for added temps.....or ur own custom phasechange or cascade system (multi-stage/compressor).
Ludemaster
n00b
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2001
- Messages
- 34
*worthy doublepost*
if u need info on phase-change systems just search on yahoo...i think ill get banned if i give you the sites name but there are xtreme sites to check out *hint* in case u want in detail info on these systems.
if u need info on phase-change systems just search on yahoo...i think ill get banned if i give you the sites name but there are xtreme sites to check out *hint* in case u want in detail info on these systems.
tehandydumke
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2004
- Messages
- 255
and why would you get banned?
phase change systems do not have to be massive. the size of the system is very much dependant on what you want it to do as far as cooling performance. take a look at the top compartment of the vapo or the bottom compartment of a prommie -- a phase change loop can be fairly small.
on the other hand, if you want -100C, you are looking at something that will take up much more space.
a single stage phase change system can be built fairly cheaply if you have some tools. on your first one, the part that will sink your wallet = the tools. you will need: a decent torch (TS4000 berzomatic is probably the minimum - about $50), flaring tools (about $35 from home depot), copper tubing cutter ($10 at home depot), copper tubing bender (seems like these are about $25 at home depot), gauge manifold with charging hoses ($75 at an HVAC shop -- you can probably pick one up off of ebay for less), vacuum pump or compressor set up to act as a vacuum pump - if you buy a new one, $100 minimum for a vacuum pump), etc. etc.
of course, if you just build it and have a refrig tech charge it, you can leave off several of the more expensive tools.
other parts:
compressor, condenser, dryer, evaporator, sae fittings, some schrader valves, insulation, fans, copper tubing, etc.
about 90% of the parts can be taken out of 5200btu window air conditioner from walmart. last time I looked, those were about $98 but you can catch them on sale for $85. those will have R22 refrigerant in them. other than the stuff in the window a/c, you will need an evaporator for a direct die system and you will likely need to change the cap tube to get the best temps. prebuilt evap = baker18 evap which is about $75. cap tube = $10 for 120" of .028.
Ludemaster mentioned some of the other refrigerants that will get better temps but they are more expensive and often require changing the oil in the compressor so it will be compatible with the new refrigerant. The refrigerant change is usually worth the effort though.
once you have all the tools, you can build fairly insane cooling systems for a very reasonable cost if you get a few deals on some of the parts. if you went with the window a/c route, stuck with the refrigerant that was in it, used a baker evap + mount and swapped out the cap tube, you could do the whole thing for maybe $250-$300...which isn't much more than decent H2O cooling.
on the other hand, if you want -100C, you are looking at something that will take up much more space.
a single stage phase change system can be built fairly cheaply if you have some tools. on your first one, the part that will sink your wallet = the tools. you will need: a decent torch (TS4000 berzomatic is probably the minimum - about $50), flaring tools (about $35 from home depot), copper tubing cutter ($10 at home depot), copper tubing bender (seems like these are about $25 at home depot), gauge manifold with charging hoses ($75 at an HVAC shop -- you can probably pick one up off of ebay for less), vacuum pump or compressor set up to act as a vacuum pump - if you buy a new one, $100 minimum for a vacuum pump), etc. etc.
of course, if you just build it and have a refrig tech charge it, you can leave off several of the more expensive tools.
other parts:
compressor, condenser, dryer, evaporator, sae fittings, some schrader valves, insulation, fans, copper tubing, etc.
about 90% of the parts can be taken out of 5200btu window air conditioner from walmart. last time I looked, those were about $98 but you can catch them on sale for $85. those will have R22 refrigerant in them. other than the stuff in the window a/c, you will need an evaporator for a direct die system and you will likely need to change the cap tube to get the best temps. prebuilt evap = baker18 evap which is about $75. cap tube = $10 for 120" of .028.
Ludemaster mentioned some of the other refrigerants that will get better temps but they are more expensive and often require changing the oil in the compressor so it will be compatible with the new refrigerant. The refrigerant change is usually worth the effort though.
once you have all the tools, you can build fairly insane cooling systems for a very reasonable cost if you get a few deals on some of the parts. if you went with the window a/c route, stuck with the refrigerant that was in it, used a baker evap + mount and swapped out the cap tube, you could do the whole thing for maybe $250-$300...which isn't much more than decent H2O cooling.