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Lian Li V2000 PROBLEM, help!!

M

midnightgreen

n00b
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
39
Hi I am having problems trying to assemble my quadcore Xeon workstation PC:

The specs are:

1x XEON 5355 CPU
1x AKASA AK-384 CPU cooler
1x Intel S5000XVN Motherboard
1x Lian Li V2000 Case


The problem seems to originate from the PC case, as with Xeon processors you need to Mount the actual Heatsink onto the PC case itself, but in my case it looks like the screws from the CPU cooler won't reach far enough, and cannot be tightened enough so that the CPU cooler would be held in its place.

I know its kind of hard to imagine, so i created a little diagram to illustrate the problem:
71a2cdceff.gif


I tried a different CPU cooler it didnt work either. I tried them in another PC case, and it did work there, so it really seems to be the Lian Li case, Did anyone else have similar problems?

M
 
wow thanks for the quick reply, although i dont quite understand ?

My problem was that they were NOT Long enough! so I am not sure how cutting them even shorter would help ?

What i was thinking was that if there was a way to make the standoffs shorter? that way the distance between the Mobo and the Case would be less, so the screws may just be long enough.
 
Is the V2000 an SSI EEB case? If so, can you put 4 standoffs under there to screw into, so your screwing the coolers into the standoff?
 
SSI EEB = Extended ATX ? if it is then yes.

Before i made the purchase i did ask the seller if it was compatible. Also the motherboard itself is screwed into the case properly, all the little Standoffs line up where they should be.

If you look at the diagram i drew up, even the Processor cooler holes line up, they are just a bit too Deep

Actually if i press on the underside of the aluminum case, to push it a bit closer to the Motherboard, sometimes i can screw in 1 or 2 of the screws, but i never managed to get all 4 of them securely in.
 
midnightgreen said:
SSI EEB = Extended ATX ? if it is then yes.

Before i made the purchase i did ask the seller if it was compatible. Also the motherboard itself is screwed into the case properly, all the little Standoffs line up where they should be.

If you look at the diagram i drew up, even the Processor cooler holes line up, they are just a bit too Deep

Actually if i press on the underside of the aluminum case, to push it a bit closer to the Motherboard, sometimes i can screw in 1 or 2 of the screws, but i never managed to get all 4 of them securely in.
Click to expand...

SSI EEB does not mean E-ATX. I'm not sure if the Lian-Li is, but I know the intel board you have requires one.

If you put standoffs in the processor cooler holes, can you mount the heatsink to those standoffs?
 
Thats a very good idea you have there ND40oz, thats definitely something im going to try out, however if you look at the installation guidelines on the intel website:
http://download.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/s5000xvn/sb/d36221004_s5000xvn_qsug_backoutline.pdf
and
http://download.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/s5000xvn/sb/d36221004_s5000xvn_qsug_frontoutline.pdf
It doesnt say i need to put standoffs under the motherboard where the Heatsinks are.

the motherboard itself already has those Springs there, im not sure if i could fit the standoffs there, but again this is the best idea so far !




PS: hmm so they are not the same ? I remember looking on newegg, and they listed the S5000XVN as an E-ATX board... hmmm
 
My antec case came with a board that has an additional 8 mini standoffs that you attach to the case and you screw the heatsinks into it. I'm still waiting on my 5400 board which is EEB to put into my TJ09, so I'm not quite sure how silverstone and lian-li have there's setup. I've been contemplating getting a V2x00 case so I'm interested on how this turns out.
 
Ok I think im getting closer, there was this mysterious small plate that came with the case
dd35ea22c2.jpg


Sadly, the V2000 came with hardly any documentation, it only came with single sheet of paper with really bad English, and the only description i could find about this plate was "Nocona Xeon" and thats all it said. I remembered Nocona from like 2003, so i assumed this wasnt necessary, but now i think this piece was the missing puzzle.

Apparently the little standoffs on this plate are perfect fir for the CPU cooler screws, however i still have a problem.

I couldnt figure it out how to fit this piece onto the actual motherboard, as there are no screwholes on it at the right places, so there is no way i could screw this extra plate onto the main Case plate..

Or maybe im just meant to have it 'floating' ? would that still keep the CPU coolers in place?

i scanned in the relevant part from the 'manual' ... as you can see its not really helpful
0bc4370feb.gif
 
midnightgreen said:
Ok I think im getting closer, there was this mysterious small plate that came with the case
dd35ea22c2.jpg


Sadly, the V2000 came with hardly any documentation, it only came with single sheet of paper with really bad English, and the only description i could find about this plate was "Nocona Xeon" and thats all it said. I remembered Nocona from like 2003, so i assumed this wasnt necessary, but now i think this piece was the missing puzzle.

Apparently the little standoffs on this plate are perfect fir for the CPU cooler screws, however i still have a problem.

I couldnt figure it out how to fit this piece onto the actual motherboard, as there are no screwholes on it at the right places, so there is no way i could screw this extra plate onto the main Case plate..

Or maybe im just meant to have it 'floating' ? would that still keep the CPU coolers in place?

i scanned in the relevant part from the 'manual' ... as you can see its not really helpful
0bc4370feb.gif
Click to expand...

looks like the four holes in the corners of the plate should align with where a standoff would go normally. You'd put the plate in first, mounted to the motherboard tray then align the holes on the motherboard (where the cooler bolts down) with the holes on the spare plate.

That's my guess. Good luck.
 
ND40oz said:
Where are you putting these bolts? The Xeon heatsink extends through the holes in the board and attaches directly to the case.
Click to expand...

Think about it REALLY hard.

Ok, I'll give you a hint. See that plate that came with his case? its essentially a bunch of bolts attached to a piece of steel. I was missing the baseplate for my dual xeon 2.4 server. I ended up just going to the hardware store and getting some bolts to secure the brackets to the motherboard
 
2uantuM said:
Think about it REALLY hard.

Ok, I'll give you a hint. See that plate that came with his case? its essentially a bunch of bolts attached to a piece of steel. I was missing the baseplate for my dual xeon 2.4 server. I ended up just going to the hardware store and getting some bolts to secure the brackets to the motherboard
Click to expand...

Hey, go for it, I'd rather it attach it correctly to the case then have it bolted directly to the back of the motherboard, but I guess the SSI spec doesn't matter, does it?

Oh, and the base plate doesn't have a bunch of bolts attached, it has a bunch of nuts attached that the screws from the heatsink thread into...
 
No they dont line up. This is starting to get REALLY REALLY annoying...

36ddb0d699.gif


as you can see from the diagram, although the holes for the cooler are at the correct locations, the holes in corners are not . There is just simply nothing under them on the Case, and therefore i cannot attach the plate onto the motherboard....

Im stuck now
 
ohh and by the way, the diagram looks nothing like the actual PC case..., on the diagram it actually does line up, but on my case there arent any holes at the right places...

the only place i could mount the actual plate was like 2 inches away from the location where it should be...

what a disappointment... i dont believe Lian lin F*cked this up so badly, as i heard such good things about them...
 
I'm running a couple dual socket systems in V2000 and V2100 cases. My experience with this problem... bit hard to explain, bear with me:

If you look at the plate, the add-on plate, you'll notice that the holes you screw the heatsink bolts into is open on both sides. What you can do, using the kind of screws you would use to, say, screw a cd drive into a case, is use those screws to secure the plate to the motherboard tray from the BACK side of it. The 8 holes for the heatsinks should align with 8 holes on the motherboard tray... so you can secure it from behind.

What you have to watch for is that the screws from the heatsinks and the screws coming from behind the motherboard tray are both too long to occupy the same hole. (Ok, this post is starting to sound perverted, LOL :eek: ) In this case, you'll have to get the heatsinks screwed in first, then screw in the ones from the back, see how far they stick out, then unscrew them and use some washers to take up the slack.

What's likely confusing you is the extra holes on the add-on plate that look like they're supposed to be used to secure the plate to the motherboard tray. Once the 8 heatsink holes are lined up though, those ones don't line up to anything. Very frustrating, if you really want to use them though it's easy to drill a couple holes and use a bolt and nut to secure the plate.

~edit~ Just a friendly suggestion, but this thread might have been answered more quickly in the multiprocessing section of this forum, those guys should have plenty of experience with this situation, lots of us running dual socket systems in Lian Li V-series cases. :)
 
that was actually what i was thinking (also phrases like "screw it from behind" came to mind as well lol )

Yes the problem is is that you cant actually fully screw it from behind ;) as you said that the there isnt a big enough hole(...), if i screw the Cooler all the way in you cant really screw it from behind, the only way i could do it, was if i screwed the cooler only half way, so that the drive screws could occupy the other half.

As a result they are sort of both in, but the heatsink is a bit loose, do you think thats alright? Or did i do something wrong? How is it in your case is it totally tight from the Cooler side?

PS: it was a bit of a dilemma where to open this thread, but since the problem originated more from the actually Case i opted for the Cases Thread... I may open another one in that other one you mentioned if i cant solve this here.
 
Yeah, even being able to get the screws in from behind can be a problem. You definitely want the heatsink to be tight though. I was using stock HP heatsink on my socket 771 board, what I had to do to keep the heatsink tight was use some washers to shim it where the screws go into the heatsink from the top.That way the screw stuck out more on top, but took up less room in the mounting holes so I could mount the plate from behind while keeping the heatsink itself nice and tight. But that HP heatsink is setup in such a way where you can do that, the screws are accessible from the top making it relatively easy to shim them.
Next time I use one I'm just going to drill holes in the motherboard tray for those holes on the xeon plate that don't match up to anything.
The whole thing's a real pain in the ass, but it'll work good once you get it all sorted.
 
well to be honest my situation looks rather dire... the screws from the behind dont want to hold the extra plate at all.. even if i screw them all the way in, and dont have the cooler on the other side..., as it turns out that the Drive screws only like to go in from the front... the thread seems to be that way...

They just wont hold the plate that well at all... its loose, and with a bit of force the whole thing just pops off, and ofcouse if i try to put the cooler on the top its even worse...


This is really bad :( the only way i could imagine this if i would either drill the extra holes, or have some device that would actually melt the two metal pieces together...either way, its really unprofessional from Lian Li to not have thought of this, and expect users to DIY mod their cases to this extent to be able to use them at all... im not impressed at all :mad:

any other suggestions ?

PS if i were to actually go through with the DIY modding, what tools would i need, or where could i take the case this to be done ? I've never done anything like this before..
 
Hmm, maybe I used slightly bigger screws, like the ones that hold in power supplies... I might have a chance to look sometime today and see how I did it.

For the DIY, all you'll need is a drill, drill bit, and some nuts and bolts. Any common drill will work, it doesn't take much power to drill through the mobo tray. Just measure the holes, and pick out the appropriate drill bit. It doesn't have to be exact, it can be slightly smaller than the hole. Pick out a bolt and nut set that will fit also, and make sure the bolt isn't so long it'll interfere with re-installing the side case panel.
You can find this stuff at walmart or any other hardware store. They sell the little plastic packets with nuts and bolts in them, and a set of drill bits is only a few bucks. Just make sure the xeon plate is nice and secure the the mobo tray before you drill, use painter's tape or something to hold it down. Don't use much force and even a cheap drill will cut it in no time.

I've drilled these trays several times, usually to cut a hole to make removing waterblocks and heatsinks easier (don't have to remove the mobo itself). Each time it's been no problem, the aluminum cuts easily and quickly, just keep a steady hand and don't force it.
 
Yeah i've just paid a visit to my local hardware store...i bought a drill hammer and some drill heads, but i think what i would really need is something like a "tap and die" set.

I mean if i would just drill a hole that may be okay, if i fasten the bolts at other end with a nut, but i think the best thing would be if i could create an actual Tap so i could REALLY securely fasten the two pieces of metals together.

What do you think ?
 
2uantuM said:
I still dont see what is wrong with using nuts.
Click to expand...

Yeah, to follow on this, I'd drill the motherboard tray and attached the plate to the case in the right spot and then attach the heat sinks correctly to the plate. The reason to do this is to put the supporting weight of the heatsinks against the case and not the motherboard.
 
i really want to use the tap and die, but that seems to be more complicated. Any suggestions there ? what type of tap and die ? or just i should buy any bigger set ?
 
If you're going to use a tap & die, just make sure it's got the proper threader to make the right pitch.
I personally hate t&d sets, my main hobby is motorcycles and modifying them... and and I've gotten to the point where I'd rather just drill a straight hole and use a nut and bolt if possible. Just my personal opinion though of course.
If you're worried about the nut coming loose, look for a product called lock-tite, or one of it's generic knock-offs. Use the red colored one. A tiny, and I mean TINY, drop of that stuff will make sure it never comes loose, Just put it on the outside where you can scrape it off with a chisel or knife of you ever want to remove the bolt. Put it in the actual threads of the screw and that nut's not ever coming off until you take a grinder to it.
 
2k3eblade said:
I'd take a dremel and cut some length off those screws to make it tighten properly.
Click to expand...

Oh dang I read that wrong. I need too pay attention more. Anyway you can use the locktite as advised above but I'd use the blue version because you can use tools to remove blue version. Red is a more permanent solution. I use a lot of locktite when fixing paintball markers and I only use the red on high pressure tanks, co2 tanks, and screws that must not back out due to reciprocation/vibration.
 
Okay, Im pleased to let all of you know that issue has been solved.

What i Did:
I bought a Power Drill, Drill bits, Tap and Die Set, and WD-40(as cutting oil, which is required for any tapping work)

1) I screwed the Xeon Mounting Plate into place from the back, just to fix the location
2) After experimenting with some test drilling on neutral parts on the Case i selected the appropriate Tap and Drill Bit. The Drill bit is 1 unit smaller than the Tap
3) Drilled through the 4 holes of the Xeon Mounting plate into the case, I also decided to Drill another 2 holes into both plates for extra security
4) Applied some WD-40 onto the Tap, and manually drilled the Threads into the appropriate places
5) washed and hovered out the case, to get rid of the WD-40, and also the little aluminum pieces
6) I attached the Plate and fixed all 6 screws with nuts from behind



So at the end it all worked out, my system is up and running no: ) the V2000 case is a massive and really well designed case, the only reason i cant recommend it, is because of the poor documentation and the necessary heavy DIY modifications that are required to make it usable for server/workstation rigs, which is a major oversight from Lian Li's part.
 
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