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Lian-Li PC-6077

R

RobAGD

n00b
Joined
Mar 13, 2004
Messages
35
I jsut got this in, and have started layout mods for it.

I Have a p4p800-e Deluxe, 1 DVD -/+ RW, DVD Rom/CDRW, 2 ide HD's, P4 3.0e

As to cards I am going to install I havent decided yet on that but its looking like I am going to transplant my SB Live w/ Digital IO card, and no idea on video acrds yet.

First thing first is cables, I hate them. I am playing around with using Cat5 Cable and jacks to make the removal of the MB tray easier for all the front pannel wires.

The On/Off, reset, HHD LED, Power LED would be 1 run of Cat 5

The USB header / Cable would be another and the firewird would be another (maybe)

Question I have is this - How would doing effect the reliablity of the ports ?

Now to the firewaire, is thier anything special that would need to be done to the cable so that it will maintain its high transfer rates ?

Next - how much voltage/amps can cat 5 cables take ?

So far I have cut off the fan guards, installed some UV reactive Fans, Heat shrinked the cables, and run them to thier hiding spot behind the MB tray.

Started tweaking the Power Supply lines, heat shrink and running patch to hide them, I need to find a better way to pop out the wires from the molex connectors..

Are there any low profile or 90* adapters that could be used for the usb connector on the MB ? the Cable as it stands has to just lay across the board as it too tall to make it turn and hide to the side, you wouldnt be able to plug in a pci card. I was thinking about using the individual plug ends and bend the MB connectors down and away to get the connector closer to the mb itself and then run it to the edge.

Just some thoughts so far.

-Robert
 
I was wondering why you said you want to use cat-5 for ease of removal till I looked at a PC-6077 review. I found it odd that this case, which seems to be a step up as far as features, doesn't have the same cable coming from the front bezel as my PC-60 does. The one on mine has a black connector in the middle, allowing for easy seperation. My usb cable also had 'hair' connectors along with the solid 10-pin connector - all the connections terminated in individual connectors for oddball usb header pin-outs.

Regardless, cat-5 would be a much cleaner solution anyways. I can't see cat-5 not being able to take the voltage/amperage from the LEDs, since they run 3.8v at the absolute most for a blue, and only 0.10A per LED. I'm guessing cat-5 usually has 3.3v or 5v going though it anyways in a network, it should be fine.

Using it for USB2.0/Firewire would be another matter though. I believe 'official' USB2.0 is qualified based on the extra shielding used, and firewire most definately has some. Its mainly because they're so close to one another. If you were to hack the usb2.0 & firewire cables that came with it and solder a short cat-5 strand to each wire, you could use a RJ-45 jack and hide the solder points with the shrink tubing. I'm guessing the larger space between the wires in the RJ-45 jack would be enough to overcome any small EMF between the various strands. If you really want to use cat-5, just get a short length of highly shielded cat-5 (rated for gigabit?), which would probably take care of the EMF issues. I'm not sure if they shield the pairs from eachother or just all 4 pairs from outside EMF - the latter wouldn't do much good for firewire/usb.


IMO the best way to remove molex connectors on the big ATX monster is to use a safety pin - good tensile stength & grip. Bend the top 1/8" of the point about 20 degrees. Pull on an individual wire, stick the pin down the hole between the plastic and metal to push in one of the two tabs. While still pulling fairly lightly, do the same to the other side. After some wiggling, it pops out. It takes a few pins to master it, but it works great. For the regular females the pin works well too - just don't bend any of the small tabs too far. The easiest way if you don't mind soldering, have desoldering wick, and already voided your PSU warranty is just to desolder the wires. You could also mod it an put a wire block (or whatever its called) and add/remove wires as you see fit.
 
Thanks for the heads up.


I was going to use the header cable until i get almost to the front pannel and use CAT 6 cable for the extention that i MIGHT have to use.

If the issue is cable I could hack both cables I have ( the Front Cable & Back pannel ) only having the Plug and hook up in the middle some place.

Actually I wasn't worried about the usb, as it just ribbon cable and come to think about it so dose the firewire. Hummm some things to think about.

I also managed to pick up a molex tool thingie. so thats hould make life a little easier.

I just wonder how much Lian-li will rape me for for a new front pannel if this dosent work :)

-Robert
 
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