Large Radiator ?

N

newtype

n00b
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
34
Hello

I'm a novice at water cooling, I have put 1 rig together and was happy with it. But with my new rig I am designing I want to push farther and harder and have some actual overclockability in the rig and it's components with out going to phase change.

I've started looking at large radiators but I can't find any rad's that support more than 3 fans (or 6 looking on how you mount it). I have looked into getting and chromeing a car radiator, but the price is a little bit of a put off and to me, and spending that much on an aluminum peice is not a good move as I see it. Also with the other rads I have been seeing is I can't get the information I want on them. For exaple is brass or copper or alluminum tubbing in the rad, is the rad body made of copper or alluminum.

So I was wondering if anyone could direct me to some rad solutions. Three, 4, or more fans are all fine. I'd actually like to see some pretty large rads because I am planning to run a large setup.

Also I have been contemplating skiping the rad entirely and useing a water chiller like they use in certain aquariums, but then I worry about condensation, and smearing everything in die-electric grease does not exactly appeal to me. If anyone has any exsperiance with a setup like that I'd appreciate feedback.

Thanks in advance for the help and soprry for any and all typos.
 
You'd have to get a fairly large chiller and one of the proper size to cool a PC to sub-ambient temps reliably would cost well over $1000. I've looked into them. If you do want to go the chiller route, say that you get a really good deal on an old water fountain chiller or something, you can get a spray coating called Konform (I suggest googling for it) that you spray on your motherboard, cards and other assorted parts that could get wet from condensation. Then you put foam (wetsuit type) around your blocks to help stop any condensation from forming.

Just make certain to mask off any traces on cards before shooting them with Konform since it makes a lousy conductor.
 
madmat said:
.......Just make certain to mask off any traces on cards before shooting them with Konform since it makes a lousy conductor.
Click to expand...

umm, that is the point of Conformal coating, to insulate. You can spray it on bare traces, in fact, that's what's designed for. I don't understand the :mask off traces" part you said :confused:


and to OP, just use 2 rads of the bonniville heater core type, AKA 2fresh rads. They do not use tubing, but instead use louvered flat tubes that make it extremely efficient. That will do all you want and more.......
 
madmat said:
You'd have to get a fairly large chiller and one of the proper size to cool a PC to sub-ambient temps reliably would cost well over $1000.
Click to expand...

I'm not exactly loooking for sub ambient. But I am looking for something that will help dissipate heat. Although out here where it's hot sub ambient isn't hard to achive :eek:
 
boof said:
Voyeurmods has a quad fan radiator.
Click to expand...

J-Mag said:
The Airplex Evo 1800 supports up to 15 120mm fans, but I have been using it to passively cool my CPU (148 Opty), NF4 Northbridge, and two 7800GTXs...

Scroll to the bottom of the link for a pic:

http://www.aqua-computer.de/e_content/e_radiator.htm
Click to expand...

Now those are what I am looking for! Especially that "Airplex Evo 1800", but. There is not enough info about the actual make up of the rads. And in the case of the "Airplex Evo 1800" weither I can change the fittings.

newtype said:
Also with the other rads I have been seeing is I can't get the information I want on them. For exaple is brass or copper or alluminum tubbing in the rad, is the rad body made of copper or alluminum.
Click to expand...

I really appreciate the links! please keep them comeing.

And aboutthe 1800, how well does it preforme, is it made of copper brass or alluminum pipeing?
 
People should just get a HUGE radiator so you don't need fans on it so dissipitate the heat.
 
Derrick70 said:
the 1800 is a big mofo its all copper from what i understand
Click to expand...

If it is it sounds like exactly like what I am looking for!

I have thought abought chromeing a alu rad if I find one I like.
 
Justintoxicated said:
you could always just pickup a thermochill PA 120.3
Click to expand...

Sorry not fammiliar with this ? is this a phase change unit ?

Could you provide a link?

Thanks everyone for all the help!
 
the thermochill 120.3 is a big radiator, its not a phase chnage and you can mount 6 fans on it. 3 on each side. this is what i use.
 
MTXR said:
the thermochill 120.3 is a big radiator, its not a phase chnage and you can mount 6 fans on it. 3 on each side. this is what i use.
Click to expand...

Sounds noisy.

the 1800 is looking very attractive especially if I add a small water chiller to it and make it passive.
 
I really hate to self bump a thread, but before I go to bed. does anyone have any info on the 1800 ?

Thanks in advance.
 
holy crap, pretty soon we will be seeing comps with Rads from those freakin huge dump trucks
 
newtype said:
I really hate to self bump a thread, but before I go to bed. does anyone have any info on the 1800 ?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Still looking for info on the 1800 especially like if it's avaliable in america.
 
If your serious about a chiller outfit that comes with temp control and the proper PS.

PM me. This system does come with a rad and a case . and its expensive. I can't go into it on the board as I would be spaming . The rad is used to cool the heat side of the cooler . The cooler runs in a loop and no rad. is in that loop'

This rad is used but its been modified to my specs. Note the rads size Single shrouded fan included 400 watt cooling / 800watts heating . this rad will take care of the 800watts heating . cool side temp range -20c to ambient . digital controll of temps. Or if you like this rad buy it here and make your own shroud using 2 160mm fans. You are aware that they make liquids that are non corsive using copper and aluminum parts in a cooling system.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.3989/qx/Product.htm
 
Derrick70 said:
the 1800 is a big mofo its all copper from what i understand
Click to expand...
No, as every airplex radiator only the pipes are made of copper while the lamellae are made of aluminium.
 
$BangforThe$ said:
You are aware that they make liquids that are non corsive using copper and aluminum parts in a cooling system.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.3989/qx/Product.htm
Click to expand...

Yes I am aware of this but in my exsperiance working with my father at his company on the build and test floor (on internship) with test handlers. Alu is a crappy and in effecient heatsink, which is why I prefer copper and brass. Simply for quality and longevity.

For those unaware of what exatly a test handeler is. It;s a large machine sometimes wheighing as much sevral cars. Takes chips and procs and stress tests them through array of hot and cold enviroment by placeing them on various dies. Useing various methodes from chilled water cooling to phase change. The company sells to Motorola Intel AMD many others.
 
with those big aquacomputer rads the 3/8 tubes cant carry enough heat to need much size
 
best [486] said:
with those big aquacomputer rads the 3/8 tubes cant carry enough heat to need much size
Click to expand...

Not sure what to make of this statement I had to read it sevral times still don't quite get it please explain.
 
I believe that he is saying the 3/8 tube is so restrictive that it doesn't carry enough heat away from the cooled part as a 1/2. using one pump at max head/flow he would be correct but if you increase flow of the 3/8 to= the flow of the 1/2 tube the 3/8 tube may infact show better results because of the higher head required to =the flow of 1/2 tube . once you get to the max efficiency of the water block maintained by a balanced rad setup this would be a constant . The very reason your looking for a large rad.

If flow is = between the 2 and your block needs turbulance to reach its max efficiency in this case a storm for example the 3/8 tube in fact should be more efficient in theory.

Also there seems to be a misconception the 2 pumps in series is = to > than 2 pumps in parallel which is a false statement . I can see if someone didn't know what they were doing they could be = But you would really have to miss up for this to be true.

Google pumps in parrallel vs. series this is true in almost all instantances of flow includeing elect. mechanical force/ air/ water/ hydr. Electrical mechanical force playes a hugh part in the stability of your PC and how that balance is maintained . Flow is the key to many problems and the force behind flow is maintained by balance = efficiency

With electric components the smaller the circuit the greater the flow requiring less force because of conductivity which = better efficiency.

Your water block = conductivity. Now I do understand the differancies between electical mechanical force and Water/Air /hydr. so lets not get comments on those differances.
In general the the relationship between flow and force = efficiency . So in a water block that is designed to be efficent threw the use of turbulance. Force would be the determaning factor. The storm water block is the perfect example of this and because its restictive(water jets) it creates turbulance. So a greater force behind your water to get to the max. efficiency of that block should be attained. Its all a matter of perspective Flow being = between 3/8 tube vs.1/2 tube . 3/8 tube should be better because of the force behind it required to = the same flow This is the reason why I use water manifolds in my custom systems. so that a restictive part like the Storm doesn't hurt the efficiency of the other blocks in the system. Now this is not for the novice but there are a lot of ideas expressed here that are very very good but there is a lot of fud posted by want to be's

the Op is looking for a larger rad . which will be more resrictive so he will need greater force than a system with a smaller rad. force to = the same flow. This is not as simple as many make it out to be and there are some fairly good guru's posting here . But I have seen some real fud here on the large bore vs. small bore issue.
 
The Airplex EVO 1800 is a large copper coiled tube radiator with 2 G1/4" threads for whatever kind of fittings you want (push-fits, compressions & barbs). It's usually run passive but can accomodate up to 15 fans. I don't think there is any way to get it unless you buy it from Germany (either direct from Aqua Computer or a distributor).

It does not have 3/8" tubes (does everyone say 3/8" because of the 10mm OD part?) The tubes drop down from 10mm to either 6mm or 8mm ID internally. Coiled tubing radiators are usually not as good - performance wise - compared to a flat tube style radiator. How much worse I don't know (there's a good radiator shootout on Pro Cooling, but it's active rads, not passive). Innovatek makes a huge passive rad, but it does not accomodate any fans and is made of anodized aluminium.

Smaller tubes do not automattically mean crap performance or "low flow" and are not all that much worse than a bigger tubed system. It all depends on your prefs and what you find appealing.

Just to add, I use 8mm ID tubing (Innovatek branded UV blue and clear) with a heatercore (I got it from the FT/S section for $13) and a Laing DDC with an attached Watercool filltank (plexi). My blocks are an Alphacool NexXxos XP light (made of plastic, maybe delrin) and an Alphacol NVXP3 full card 7800/x1900 block (it's plexi on copper, not aluminium).
 
Why would you even bother with such a big rad ? It's not going to get your temps down by more than like a single degree compared to a PA 120.3. Just get the PA and stick 3 medium speed fans on it.

Unless you're cooling a Pentium D and 2 1900XTXs I don't really think you'd gain an awful lot...
 
Demon_of_The_Fall said:
Why would you even bother with such a big rad ? It's not going to get your temps down by more than like a single degree compared to a PA 120.3. Just get the PA and stick 3 medium speed fans on it.

Unless you're cooling a Pentium D and 2 1900XTXs I don't really think you'd gain an awful lot...
Click to expand...

Although I agrree, as I stated before, I am looking for a solution that I cann use that will be relitivly passive. It's not soo much for tempeture drop and speed gain as it is for lowering decibles. :D
 
newtype said:
Although I agrree, as I stated before, I am looking for a solution that I cann use that will be relitivly passive. It's not soo much for tempeture drop and speed gain as it is for lowering decibles. :D
Click to expand...

Then get the Airplex Evo 1800 as it is the best in it's class. You can see the line-up at www.watercoolplanet.de
 
Hmmm

If I can find a place to purchase this I think I will. (prefrably in the US)
 
WoW, nice 4 month bump, I always wondered how people find such old threads to bump :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top