• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

lapping problem

M

method526

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
419
i think that i may need to even out my new processor and my TRUE after my first lapping process. does anyone have any ideas/tips/suggestions on how to do so? i got to expose the copper but i feel some parts on the corners and sides are uneven. i would get pics but i'm actually using the processor and TRUE right now. Everything works, but the temps are as high as my old Q6600 @ 3.6 (about 47-49C) on stock (processor is Q9650). my true has 2 corners that wont seem to bare the copper side as some nickel plating is still leftover.
 
Don't worry about the corners and sides, they'll naturally get rounded as you lap the base and they're not important. Just make sure you get the majority of the center area flat. What's your lapping technique?
 
MisterSparkle said:
Don't worry about the corners and sides, they'll naturally get rounded as you lap the base and they're not important. Just make sure you get the majority of the center area flat. What's your lapping technique?
Click to expand...

i used tjharlow's method. here's youtube links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVXuZTuoEuE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5L1s1-nXj0o

i ended up losing count when my grandmother asked me a question while i was doing one of the reps so i feel like there is some uneven feeling. i believe my TRUE might also be slightly uneven.
 
Don't bother going above 1000 grit :p

As for losing count on reps, it's not that big of a deal, as long as your maintaining a proper handling of the heatsink/CPU and rotating it on a fairly even basis, you're good to go. If you have a razor or thin flat edge around, you can test your work by putting the flat edge on the base and seeing where light comes in underneath.
 
MisterSparkle said:
Don't bother going above 1000 grit :p

As for losing count on reps, it's not that big of a deal, as long as your maintaining a proper handling of the heatsink/CPU and rotating it on a fairly even basis, you're good to go. If you have a razor or thin flat edge around, you can test your work by putting the flat edge on the base and seeing where light comes in underneath.
Click to expand...

ok. what grit should i work it with then? i was thinking about 'starting over' with 400 then work my way to 800, but do less reps.
 
For CPU's I usually start with 320, then once it's flat move onto 600. Once the 600 grit has removed the heavy scratches from the 320, a bit of 1000 grit finishes it up nicely. You don't want it perfectly smooth, but you want to get rid of any deep scratches.

For heatsinks such as the TRUE, where there's a lot of base thickness to work with, and it usually starts off fairly uneven, I start with 180 grit to get it flat. It may be fairly tough pushing it over 180, so make sure you've got a good hold on all four corners of the base, apply even but slight pressure, and try to keep it from rocking as you move over the sandpaper. A figure 8 pattern works fairly well.

The first stage will usually take the longest, as you're trying to wear through a fair bit of metal to get these things flat.
 
Also, make sure you're lapping with something very flat such as a piece of glass. I use two different pieces I cut from an old aquarium. One is large enough to put a half sheet of sandpaper on it and move the chip or heatsink over it, and the other is a smaller bar (2"x5") that I wrap the sandpaper around and use in-hand for lapping larger items such as a TRUE.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top