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Koolance EXOS-2

U

umgill45

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
274
Hi there! I'm putting together a water cooling system and would like to get some suggestions.


These are my components:
Intel C2D 6300@ 3.0 (429*7)
ASUS P5B-e Rev 1.01
OCS Plat REV 2 PC-6400 4-4-4-15
Evga 7950gt
250gb WD caviar se16

First off, Is the P182b Antec case good for water cooling?

Second is the Koolance Exos 2 a good system to build (this is going to be my first time with water-cooling). And what cpu block would you recommend with that?

Any good advice for a first time builder would help. (a different w/c kit maybe?)
 
Koolance is by no means a bad performer, ask some of the people around here (Including Kyle) who used Koolance. Biggest downside is its cost...for its performance it simply doesn't justify the price premium. If you can go with a custom system or a pre-built petras/danger den system that would be ideal.
 
i have used koolance before. They make a fine unit, but as mentioned above they are pretty $$$$

look into the units from corsair and gigabyte if you are not willing to go for a full out system
 
thanks guys. I live in Canada and cant seem to find pre-built danger-den systems. I can however get parts from sites like ncix.com and directcanada.com
 
umgill45 said:
thanks guys. I live in Canada and cant seem to find pre-built danger-den systems. I can however get parts from sites like ncix.com and directcanada.com
Click to expand...

sounds good to me. Seems like NCIX is the best place (although a bit more expensive).
 
Thanks for those who have replied.

so far i've come up with the following components:

cpu block : D-tek fusion
gpu block : maze 5
pump: D-den D5
tubing : clear flex
Radiator : (still need to get suggestions...from you guys!)
reservoir : micro-mcres

I still think 3/8 inch would be nice for the whole system but the above setup is 1/2"
Is 1/2 inch gonna be a problem. If yes, then what alternatives do i have?
Do you think that I should get a better case than the P180b? (i would like to get a system that is similarly priced).

Also, is Maze 5 better than Maze 4 as they say?
 
If you'll go with a DDC you could get 3/8" fittings for everything else as a no cost option and have a 3/8" loop. That or get Masterkleer 7/16" tubing and run it, which in reality would be almost the same as running thick walled 3/8" tubing since they both have the same O.D..

As to the rad, what are you planning to do with it? Cut it into the case? The MCR320 is a very strong rad. You'll most likely have a few people recommending the PA120.3 but for the cost difference the MCR320 is very close in terms of performance for well under half the price.
 
So the DDC is from danger den i suppose? Is there a performance difference between the DDC-2 and the MCP-655 & D5(danger den)?

Also how exaclty do I get 3/8 barbs to fit on the d-tek fuzion (since its 1/2").
Why do i see so ppl using the 120.3 and other radiators while the MCR30 is half the price (is there something i'm missing?) How about the HW black ice extreme dual 120mm and the black ice GT stealth. Whats the differnece b/w them.

Also I prefer to have the Rad on the rear of the case. Would like to add the cpu and northbridge to the loop. Gpu is good on air for now. Also how well would an antec sonata II case be for water cooling?
 
umgill45 said:
So the DDC is from danger den i suppose? Is there a performance difference between the DDC-2 and the MCP-655 & D5(danger den)?

Also how exaclty do I get 3/8 barbs to fit on the d-tek fuzion (since its 1/2").
Why do i see so ppl using the 120.3 and other radiators while the MCR30 is half the price (is there something i'm missing?) How about the HW black ice extreme dual 120mm and the black ice GT stealth. Whats the differnece b/w them.

Also I prefer to have the Rad on the rear of the case. Would like to add the cpu and northbridge to the loop. Gpu is good on air for now. Also how well would an antec sonata II case be for water cooling?
Click to expand...

The DDC has a higher head than the D5, therefore the flow is about the same in a working loop even though it's far lower at no load.

You order the blocks with 3/8" barbs, It's not exactly rocket science. I dunno how much plainer I can say it... It should be an option at whichever shop you order it from.

Why do people use the 120.3 over the MCR320? They can afford to pay two or three times the price for a 2-3C difference. I don't see that difference being worth the premium not to mention the added thickness of the rad. Thickness makes mounting a bit more of a chore.

The BIX II? Avoid it if you want silence along with good cooling, you have to push a lot of air through it to really make it work well. That means loud fans, usually on both sides of the rad.

GTS? Dunno, the high fin count seems a bit self defeating. The GTX? Same as the BIX, needs lots of airflow versus a thinner rad to achieve the same temps. Best to go with rads really designed for low air flow.

Edit: D-Tek sells the Fuzion with your choice of barbs.
 
The MCR radiators by swiftech are on NCIX and are your best bet by far.

Get 1/2" barbs and use 7/16" masterkleer tubing... Makes it a nice bit smaller, and still great flow.
 
madmat said:
The DDC has a higher head than the D5, therefore the flow is about the same in a working loop even though it's far lower at no load.

You order the blocks with 3/8" barbs, It's not exactly rocket science. I dunno how much plainer I can say it... It should be an option at whichever shop you order it from.

Why do people use the 120.3 over the MCR320? They can afford to pay two or three times the price for a 2-3C difference. I don't see that difference being worth the premium not to mention the added thickness of the rad. Thickness makes mounting a bit more of a chore.

The BIX II? Avoid it if you want silence along with good cooling, you have to push a lot of air through it to really make it work well. That means loud fans, usually on both sides of the rad.

GTS? Dunno, the high fin count seems a bit self defeating. The GTX? Same as the BIX, needs lots of airflow versus a thinner rad to achieve the same temps. Best to go with rads really designed for low air flow.

Edit: D-Tek sells the Fuzion with your choice of barbs.
Click to expand...

Ok i'll go with the mcr-320 swiftech. Do i need a shroud for this?
I'm using sythe 21F fans.
the problem is that ncix.com dont half 3/8 inch barbs. Most of their stuff is 1/2 " and there is no other store worth buying from. i live in canada.
thing is shoul i go 3/8" or 1/2". i know i would have ordered 3/8" from the store but they dont have it.
Like i said i can change my case to fit 1/2" but to which case should i switch too? I cna get an antec sonata II also but i dont know how that'll work?
 
Arcygenical said:
The MCR radiators by swiftech are on NCIX and are your best bet by far.

Get 1/2" barbs and use 7/16" masterkleer tubing... Makes it a nice bit smaller, and still great flow.
Click to expand...

so 7/16" can fit on 1/2 "? thats cool. Is 10 feet tubing enough? Also i think ill go with clearflex.
 
Use 1/2" barbs and masterkleer tubing. Trust me. It's the best way of doing things.

10ft is enough. Clearflex is not as good as Masterkleer.
 
Ah, you're a Canuck. Sorry then, I thought you were looking at stuff stateside. Yeah, going with Masterkleer is a good bet then. I'm running a mix of 7/16" I.D. tubing and 1/2" Clearflex. I got the Clearflex due to it being available locally and I had the 7/16" but it was already cut to lengths for another loop so it wouldn't work in this case. Personally I like the Clearflex, it's pretty flexible and doesn't kink easily but the Masterkleer is really nice too and at the price it's very tough to beat.

Glad that you've ironed it all out, it sounds like a very nice loop. I'm sure that you'll enjoy it when you've got it built.
 
Not sure if I missed the info (have a splitting headache)..

where are you putting the radiator? Internal? I'm guessing since you're doing a 120x3 it's external and mounted to the top?
 
A triple can be mounted in a stacker, or on top of a lian li PC-V1000 :)

both are on NCIX
 
Also in the Armor and Kandalf. Though in those (standing vertically in the front) you'll only have one 5.25" bay free.
 
I was hoping for a cheaper casing. I would like sometihng thats atleast 50 bucks cheaper.
 
umgill45 said:
I was hoping for a cheaper casing. I would like sometihng thats atleast 50 bucks cheaper.
Click to expand...
You could go with a radbox and mount the rad on the read. Although you would be required to drill 3/4" holes and place some 1/2" gourmets in the hole to prevent cutting. It's a bit more involved and you will have to cover your motherboard with a tee shirt or something similar (as I did) but it's well worth it with you are looking at bigger rads.




This is a photo of an old setup of mine using a P180 case. the rear had enough room to the righ side to allow for a rad without hindering the PCIe/PCI slots.
 
@Eastcoasthandle:

Shouldn't i use the two watercooling holes at the bottom of the case? I think i'll go with a rad box at the back. seems so much more doable but with the holes at the bottom of the case will the mc320 be doable? should i invert the rad so that its barbs are at the bottom of the rad rather than being upright and at the top?
 
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