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Koolance CPU blocks good?

Oh yeah... Missed that. Damn "go to bottom of thread" arrow.

But see what I mean? The water can travel right over the retention mechanism, and not flow anywhere near the copper core.

An improvement to be sure, but not optimal IMO.
 
23395.jpg

My concerns are as follows:

1. I NEVER would have copper bolted to AL, regardless...... I feel pretty secure with having them in the same loop just not bolted together.
2. The channels are wayyyyy to thin for optimum cooling IMHO. They are squeezing the water through ultra thin channels and not very many of them to boot.

While the block looks kick ass, visually, the EK takes it on looks and performance. Since you can't buy either one of them from US distributors, they both suck! Reminds me to see if my AquaPC's product shipped.
 
Now, what's the inside of the actual FC block look like... over the core area? I remember there being the ability for the water not to enter the channels and go right over them...

My only gripe in their design.

Water follows the least path of resistance so I don't see any water going over the top. The top you see is where a plate seals down with an o-ring.
 
My concerns are as follows:

1. I NEVER would have copper bolted to AL, regardless...... I feel pretty secure with having them in the same loop just not bolted together.
2. The channels are wayyyyy to thin for optimum cooling IMHO. They are squeezing the water through ultra thin channels and not very many of them to boot.

While the block looks kick ass, visually, the EK takes it on looks and performance. Since you can't buy either one of them from US distributors, they both suck! Reminds me to see if my AquaPC's product shipped.

I agree with #1, but remember all those guys who used the copper cores with the AquagraFX 6800 rev 2 coolers? I never heard anyone complaining about corrosion while using AC Fluid. Actually I don't think they touch. Isn't the o-ring making contact between the two parts?

#2 I think they are a hell of a lot wider than a radiator and that seems to work okay....
 
I agree with #1, but remember all those guys who used the copper cores with the AquagraFX 6800 rev 2 coolers? I never heard anyone complaining about corrosion while using AC Fluid. Actually I don't think they touch. Isn't the o-ring making contact between the two parts?

#2 I think they are a hell of a lot wider than a radiator and that seems to work okay....


Yep but now that AC has serious competition on the FC blocks they need to enhance their three year old design. I would love to see them do something different to the core area and make G1/4 a standard. A solid silver one might make me want one over the EK block.
 
Yep but now that AC has serious competition on the FC blocks they need to enhance their three year old design. I would love to see them do something different to the core area and make G1/4 a standard. A solid silver one might make me want one over the EK block.

I already posted on the AC Forum that a silver core made a lot more sense than a copper core. Even a silver plated copper core makes more sense.
 
Yeah, I gotta go with R1ck on that one; the microchannels make me feel...constricted. Silver would be da bomb tho; too bad I can't afford it! :mad:
 
Yeah, I gotta go with R1ck on that one; the microchannels make me feel...constricted. Silver would be da bomb tho; too bad I can't afford it! :mad:

I don't think anyone can afford a solid silver one... Except maybe theseeker. :D
 
I'm running with a cpu300v-10 at the moment. Its not bad, but at first opprotunity its getting replaced by a D-Tek Fuzion.
 
Water follows the least path of resistance so I don't see any water going over the top. The top you see is where a plate seals down with an o-ring.

I'm aware of the Oring, and yeah, water will obviously not pass around the O ring... But the portion of the block that the insert screws into (the support piece), is lower than the O ring, and will also let water pass.

I mean, it has to. It's a bunch thinner than the slits in the core, but it's sure as hell a lot wider.

Now, I've never seen one, so I could be totally wrong, but I always see water going around the non-sealed middle of my EK waterblock.
 
My condolences over the loss of your 8800GTX. Others may disagree with me, but I think a considerable number of us ex-Koolance users have run into a lot of horrendous problems with Koolance's products. I hope you bought an EVGA 8800GTX as they'll accept anything back that looks like a video card.

Now onto your cooling needs:
EK 8800GTX Full cover block. Best full cover block in the business.

However, I normally prefer GPU only blocks. If you rather go the Core-only route, I'd recommend a Swiftech MCW60 w/ the 8800 ram sinks set. If you choose this option, it'll be less restrictive than the EK FC, will cool the core better, and you'll be able to reuse the block at a later date when new generations of video cards come out.

Yes I am getting a new 8800 GTX from EVGA. I doubt I'll have much luck with Koolance though.
 
I just got a 330 :) I'll do some testing whenever I get my water temp water probe :cool:
 
I'm putting together a new system that will have SLI 8800Ultras, Intel Quad cpu (haven't decided which, waiting until prices drop before making a purchase), Crucial Ballistix 8500, EVGA NF68-A1 680i mobo.. and all of those components will be water cooled.

Right now I'm looking into getting all koolance: Exos-2 kit, 2x 282 GPU Blocks, the 330 CPU Block (review), 2x of their DDR2 memory blocks. I've heard nothing but good things about the Exos-2 kit, and right now I'd rather go with that than a DIY. Finding reviews for the GPU block has been kind of hard to come by, so I'm basically going by Koolance's brand name on that one.. and the fact that they look so shiny. Oh, and Koolance's GPU coolers have card-to-card nozzle connectors for SLI setups, which is very nice.

Only thing that worries me is whether or not the Koolance chipset coolers will actually fit in. They claim that the CHC-120 fits under PCI-Express cards, but I just don't see that happening with the EVGA 680i board. Anyone know anything about that?

I'll be sure to post back my temps with my koolance setup.
 
I'm putting together a new system that will have SLI 8800Ultras, Intel Quad cpu (haven't decided which, waiting until prices drop before making a purchase), Crucial Ballistix 8500, EVGA NF68-A1 680i mobo.. and all of those components will be water cooled.

Right now I'm looking into getting all koolance: Exos-2 kit, 2x 282 GPU Blocks, the 330 CPU Block (review), 2x of their DDR2 memory blocks. I've heard nothing but good things about the Exos-2 kit, and right now I'd rather go with that than a DIY. Finding reviews for the GPU block has been kind of hard to come by, so I'm basically going by Koolance's brand name on that one.. and the fact that they look so shiny. Oh, and Koolance's GPU coolers have card-to-card nozzle connectors for SLI setups, which is very nice.

Only thing that worries me is whether or not the Koolance chipset coolers will actually fit in. They claim that the CHC-120 fits under PCI-Express cards, but I just don't see that happening with the EVGA 680i board. Anyone know anything about that?

I'll be sure to post back my temps with my koolance setup.


To your last question, yes it will fit. I have that board and am currently running a now 3 year old EXOS-2. I might point out that this system still has the original coolant and everything inside is nice and bright and shiny as the day I put it together.

I’m about to pick up the new CPU water block and two chipset blocks for my EVGA 680i. One option I love with Koolance is the Exos-2 has some unique terminations for the 10mm / 3/8 tubing. The adaptors (call them “T” adaptors) allow full 10mm cooling for the CPU but have pass through for 6mm or ¼ inch tubing that allow you to loop across to the NB and SB chips.

I’m not sure exactly what horror stories people are referring to but I have had only one issue and when I checked with Koolance the guy laughed and said “you can send it to us and pay us to fix it, or grab the unit and shake the living hell out of it and that will fix your problem” it did. My one pump seemed to have stopped and there was a piece of futz stuck in the line.

This cooler runs 24/7 with the CPU at 100% and does it in a simple no fuss matter.

Now, if you want to get really serious about your EVGA and water cooling:

http://www.evga.com/products/moreinfo.asp?pn=122-CK-NF69-A1&family=20

http://www.evga.com/products/pdf/122-CK-NF69-A1.pdf

Shipped with all the water blocks in place including the voltage regulators.

http://www.evga.com/products/pdf/768-P2-N888-AR.pdf

Matching video card(s), again all the cooling installed.

Should give you a few things to think about;)

Either way, enjoy. We only get to go around once as they say:D




 
I’m not sure exactly what horror stories people are referring to but I have had only one issue and when I checked with Koolance the guy laughed and said “you can send it to us and pay us to fix it, or grab the unit and shake the living hell out of it and that will fix your problem” it did. My one pump seemed to have stopped and there was a piece of futz stuck in the line.

This cooler runs 24/7 with the CPU at 100% and does it in a simple no fuss matter.

Exactly as mine ran for 3 1/2 years. I did change out the coolant a couple of times just for grins.
 
Back to the initial question.

Are Koolance blocks good? They are alright

Are there better options? Yes, by a long shot. Apogee gt(x) and Fuzion beat the snuff out of them. A TDX might even out perform them, but usually Koolance blocks are left to the kits and nobody touches them.
 
Are there better options? Yes, by a long shot. Apogee gt(x) and Fuzion beat the snuff out of them. A TDX might even out perform them, but usually Koolance blocks are left to the kits and nobody touches them.

Please provide proof of your assertion.
 
I'm going to go off on a limb

And say my proof is in the fact i've never seen a koolance kit reach the load temps a fuzion does on overclocked C2Q's

But really Top Nurse, open up your fucking head and stop acting like a dumbass on purpose going "but OMG, I DUNT SEE LIEK NUMBARZ" and when they are posted, you go "BUT OMG LIEK I DUNT SEE HOW THAY R TRU"

Retard speak used exclusivly for context, you try to come out as being an "intelligent debator" but really all that comes from your mouth is retard gibberish.
 
Sigh, I decided to do a little searching on the XS forums for you.

If you want the thread, just search "koolance temp" and "e6300 temp" for the two threads.

CPU load 55-60 with koolance kit, CPU at 3.15ghz c2d 6300.

Storm waterblock with mcr320 and d5 pump I believe, e6300 3.2 ghz, load temp at 45. What more do you want again? Just think about surface area, turbulance, and impingment real quick here.

The Fuzion has a pin grid, much like a pin grid in a koolance block. However, water flows directly into the pin grid and out on the fuzion, while the koolance kit the water kind of meanders its way through the grid. I'd take the turbulance and pressure of a fuzion of a koolance gold plated triangular pyramid grid anyday.. really.
 
I found a review of the CPU-330 Here seems to be a good block lower temps than the Apogee GT. But then i don't knwo too much about WCing
 
I'm going to go off on a limb

And say my proof is in the fact i've never seen a koolance kit reach the load temps a fuzion does on overclocked C2Q's

But really Top Nurse, open up your fucking head and stop acting like a dumbass on purpose going "but OMG, I DUNT SEE LIEK NUMBARZ" and when they are posted, you go "BUT OMG LIEK I DUNT SEE HOW THAY R TRU"

Retard speak used exclusivly for context, you try to come out as being an "intelligent debator" but really all that comes from your mouth is retard gibberish.

So from one retard to another your proof is shit, right?

Please also refrain from slamming mentally challenged people with your bullshit spelling. Most people I know who are mentally challenged know what they want to say, but just have difficulty saying it. XS is that way =>
 
Sigh, I decided to do a little searching on the XS forums for you.

If you want the thread, just search "koolance temp" and "e6300 temp" for the two threads.

CPU load 55-60 with koolance kit, CPU at 3.15ghz c2d 6300.

Storm waterblock with mcr320 and d5 pump I believe, e6300 3.2 ghz, load temp at 45. What more do you want again? Just think about surface area, turbulance, and impingment real quick here.

The Fuzion has a pin grid, much like a pin grid in a koolance block. However, water flows directly into the pin grid and out on the fuzion, while the koolance kit the water kind of meanders its way through the grid. I'd take the turbulance and pressure of a fuzion of a koolance gold plated triangular pyramid grid anyday.. really.

Anything XS has to say about Koolance isn't worth talking about (except the aluminum radiator fiasco). Even when someone posted a Koolance rig kicking their butts they still managed to dis it because it was a Koolance. :rolleyes:
 
I found a review of the CPU-330 Here seems to be a good block lower temps than the Apogee GT. But then i don't knwo too much about WCing

Good review on real world testing and I suppose it would work real good for you. Unfortunately the guys from XS are in water cooling to get the last 1 Mhz out of their computers so unless it's the best (in their eyes) it's crap.
 
I already posted on the AC Forum that a silver core made a lot more sense than a copper core. Even a silver plated copper core makes more sense.

I will be the first to admit that Gold per se isn’t the best conductor of heat ever discovered it does have one really nice feature. It oxidizes at a much lower rate then almost any other metal, especially in the environment provided by Koolance.

My personal feeling as well as experience re this subject is what little cooling might be lost do to the gold plating far outweighs the insulation provided by all the oxidation build up to be found inside most water blocks in even a few months of use.

As to silver, I have made my own blocks from silver and they don’t work well for the above mentioned reasons, oxidation is always the big problem. I used .999 silver which is rather easily obtained if you are willing to break the law and deface US currency. It takes about, well not about, it takes exactly $6.00 worth of silver to first surface grind 12 faces so to speak, silver sweat three together with two as a top and a bit of machine work to create a grid. First it tarnishes, then oxidized to pure black then actually starts to flake off which creates it’s own issues.;)


Back to the initial question.

Are Koolance blocks good? They are alright

Are there better options? Yes, by a long shot. Apogee gt(x) and Fuzion beat the snuff out of them. A TDX might even out perform them, but usually Koolance blocks are left to the kits and nobody touches them.

This is of course another assertion over which you have no proof. Unless you can provide me with real sales numbers your statement can only be taken as fan dude fodder.

Here is a fact if you can deal with those. My E6600 at 3.45 at just a tad over 1.4 volts runs folding at home which is a 100% load all day and all night at an average temp of 47c. I have tried 4 other “highly recommended” blocks and only one came close and it cost over $100.00 at the time and had the “Storm” name.

Not bad for a “kit”.

My guess is Koolance is doing pretty well since instead of going bankrupt they keep bringing new product to the market and adding dealers. Not every buyer of the product posts on a forum so we have no real way of know exactly what their numbers are, I can only go by what I see growth wise within the industry.

I use to go the built it yourself route as well and tried pump after pump, block after block etc and the one fact that remains is one of Physics. Under ideal circumstances you should be able to lower your CPU temp to at least 10c below ambient, period. Koolance does that with ease and room to spare, it’s simple to install requires all but no maintenance (you do have to blow the dust out of the radiator once and a while) and is backed by a company who has a very no BS approach to customer service.

Everything I just posted is FACT. I have yet to see you do the same. As such, at best, you are misleading forum readers with your opinion. Please let that be the job of the politicians.:rolleyes:
 
I'm going to go off on a limb

And say my proof is in the fact i've never seen a koolance kit reach the load temps a fuzion does on overclocked C2Q's

But really Top Nurse, open up your fucking head and stop acting like a dumbass on purpose going "but OMG, I DUNT SEE LIEK NUMBARZ" and when they are posted, you go "BUT OMG LIEK I DUNT SEE HOW THAY R TRU"

Retard speak used exclusivly for context, you try to come out as being an "intelligent debator" but really all that comes from your mouth is retard gibberish.

TN asked politely, how the hell can you come up with such a disgusting response? You should be ashamed of making misleading assertions and having nothing to back that up. Seriously, where's the proof?
 
I will be the first to admit that Gold per se isn’t the best conductor of heat ever discovered it does have one really nice feature. It oxidizes at a much lower rate then almost any other metal, especially in the environment provided by Koolance.

My personal feeling as well as experience re this subject is what little cooling might be lost do to the gold plating far outweighs the insulation provided by all the oxidation build up to be found inside most water blocks in even a few months of use.

As to silver, I have made my own blocks from silver and they don’t work well for the above mentioned reasons, oxidation is always the big problem. I used .999 silver which is rather easily obtained if you are willing to break the law and deface US currency. It takes about, well not about, it takes exactly $6.00 worth of silver to first surface grind 12 faces so to speak, silver sweat three together with two as a top and a bit of machine work to create a grid. First it tarnishes, then oxidized to pure black then actually starts to flake off which creates it’s own issues.

[Off Topic]

Sorry for not completing my thoughts. ;) What I was speaking in reference to was an AC full cover block as seen below. They have a fantastic design where the heat sink cores float in the block for the GPU and the VR's. A few years back they made some copper cores to replace the aluminum stock cores with the understanding that they didn't want to hear about any aluminum/copper problems resulting in direct contact. They decided recently to start that idea up as a lot of their customer base wanted them and they increase cooling efficiency about 20-30% over the aluminum cores.

My idea of course was to use either silver cores or silver plated copper cores to eliminate putting copper right next to the aluminum much like Swiftech did with their Stealth GPU cooler.




18gtx-bm-lg.gif





8800cu.jpg


[/Off Topic]
 
[Off Topic]

Sorry for not completing my thoughts. ;) What I was speaking in reference to was an AC full cover block as seen below. They have a fantastic design where the heat sink cores float in the block for the GPU and the VR's. A few years back they made some copper cores to replace the aluminum stock cores with the understanding that they didn't want to hear about any aluminum/copper problems resulting in direct contact. They decided recently to start that idea up as a lot of their customer base wanted them and they increase cooling efficiency about 20-30% over the aluminum cores.

My idea of course was to use either silver cores or silver plated copper cores to eliminate putting copper right next to the aluminum much like Swiftech did with their Stealth GPU cooler. [/Off Topic]

I pretty much know what you meant to say and took it as such. I simply supplied some anecdotal information as add on thoughts.

Truth be told it was my poor form to link those two posts together especially in the state of agita the other post put me into.

I was going to add that the EVGA Black Diamond board I referenced the other day uses all it’s water cooling parts from your favorite German supplier and all have ¼ inch barbs.

I found it strange that a company such as EVGA would use such low flow components on their flagship motherboard and video cards (wink wink, nudge nudge);)
 
I recently received these things from Koolance:

1x EXOS-2
1x CPU-330 (will be cooling Q6700)
2x VID-282 (one for each of my MSI 8800 Ultra OC)
1x CHC-120 (Northbridge of EVGA 680i A1)
1x CHC-120-V06 (Southbridge, SLI compatible)
2x RAM-30-V06 (cooling 4x1GB Crucial Ballistix 1066...?)

I won't have the CPU until tomorrow, so I won't be able to post any results until tomorrow night/Tuesday.

One problem so far, the RAM coolers SUCK. Getting them mounted on is impossible with heat spreaders (and what quality ram comes without heat spreaders?) The water packs feel fragile/rippable, so trying to squeeze the ram in is kind of scary, but on top of that, the ram doesn't sit evenly in the kit, one side allows the ram to go in slightly deeper, which means you cannot put the ram into the kit, then onto the mobo, since one of the modules would be out of reach of a bank. So it seems like the only way to get these on correctly is to put the ram into the bank first, then mount the kits over the ram. Problem with that is the middle water pack just squishes up as you attempt to mount it, because the heat spreaders leave virtually no room for it. Anticipating this problem I also purchased the Corsair Air ram coolers. They fit easily and more importantly, they don't interrupt the loop with 1/4" tubing.

Another thing, from my initial glances, it doesn't seem like the southbridge cooler can possibly fit in with a stock cooled SLI setup. The VID-282s are HALF the size of the air coolers that come on 8800s, which gives just enough room for the southbridge cooler to fit in comfortably.
 
Agreed. I'd actually recommend getting Koolance.

For a complete noob to water cooling come fresh off mid end air parts, then yes, koolance is the way to go.

It's stupid easy to put together, looks nice, they offer a complete kit (thus removing the need to hunt for parts and figure out what you actually should get), and price wise, they aren't that bad.

The problem is that none of their parts are the top performing, or even in that range, in any category. You can buy better blocks for any of your parts, better radiators, better tubing, better chemical additives... apart from the fact they use the same pump most do now, they are behind across the board.

It's really up to you as a buyer. Do you want ease of use, or do you want quality and performance? And this has always been the trade off in fancy cooling contraptions.

I found it strange that a company such as EVGA would use such low flow components on their flagship motherboard and video cards (wink wink, nudge nudge)

IIRC all the black pearl parts are made in germany regardless. Companies up in that range sign deals with distributors all the time, and it's not only quality/performance, it's on other issues.

BFG ships theirs with dangerdens parts, asus/msi use some silly contraption.

That doesn't mean any of those parts are all that good.
 
Agreed. I'd actually recommend getting Koolance.

Funny how Sharka computers themselves (talked with Wes) recommend against Koolance. They sell Koolance and D-Tek products. He even states that their entire line is not competitive with many others. Even in a Koolance friendly/biased test, the D-Tek Fuzion beat out the Koolance CPU block. Their sponsored review was posted on the front page of their very own website.

Koolance and like other kits are good only for those new looking to making their first jump into watercooling. Once you get your feet wet, you'll realize how much their price/quality hold you back.
 
The problem is that none of their parts are the top performing, or even in that range, in any category. You can buy better blocks for any of your parts, better radiators, better tubing, better chemical additives... apart from the fact they use the same pump most do now, they are behind across the board.

It's really up to you as a buyer. Do you want ease of use, or do you want quality and performance? And this has always been the trade off in fancy cooling contraptions.

According to this review done by virtual-hideout.net the new koolance 330 cpu block performs similarly to an Apogee GT, or in some cases outperforms it. Sure, it's only one review, results aren't set in stone, but everything about the 330 block's design suggests that it's very capable. It's quite clever IMO.

The new CHC-120 chipset block has a similar design, and should outperform Swiftech's MCW30 (any block should :rolleyes: ) and it should perform similarly to EK's and DD's chipset blocks.

I don't know about Koolance's tubing but Swiftech's isn't any better. I don't know if we can judge a company by these type of accessories, Swiftech uses the crappy plastic barbs which make for the worst user experience and that doesn't mean much because you can change them. In this aspect though Koolance has excellent fittings and they really do enhance the user experience.

I can't make an statement about Koolance's fullcover blocks because some report great temps and others the opposite, so there aren't conclusive tests, but honestly I'm inclined to think that Koolance does just fine, there isn't much you can do on a fullcover vs a dedicated impingement block or complex matrix design.

Basically what I'm trying to get at is that you may dislike Koolance for different reasons such as metal mixing, plastic blocks etc, but I don't you can discredit them in the performance area. They have good pumps, they have fine blocks and their alu rads are for the most part as capable as brass rads. I don't think the issue is performance. Even if you can make an argument about 1-3C difference, it's no way in the mythical range of 10C like some make it seem. Personally I dislike Koolance's old blocks with plastic covers, especially those with integrated plastic barbs. Very bad design. But they seem to be shifting away from this type of design, I think they are doing pretty well.
 
According to this review done by virtual-hideout.net the new koolance 330 cpu block performs similarly to an Apogee GT, or in some cases outperforms it. Sure, it's only one review, results aren't set in stone, but everything about the 330 block's design suggests that it's very capable. It's quite clever IMO.

Should we link images of those who purchased the block to see how easily/shockingly the gold plating gets chipped off? I'm sure that's "clever". Feel free to call up Sharka's and ask them how that block stacks up against other blocks. They'll tell you themselves its a PoS compared to the Fuzion or the AC Cuplex DI. They also plan on not carrying the 330 any longer. Funny how one of the larger retailers of Koolance parts on the US west coast doesn't figure it to be capable nor clever. Hell if you're going to gamble with an alu based product, it might as well be from more reputable companies.

The new CHC-120 chipset block has a similar design, and should outperform Swiftech's MCW30 (any block should :rolleyes: ) and it should perform similarly to EK's and DD's chipset blocks.

Funny how recent tests by a phD student over on XS showed the Swiftech and DD chipset blocks to be the best, trumping even the EK's that I'm fond of. Selective memory? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=152686


Basically what I'm trying to get at is that you may dislike Koolance for different reasons such as metal mixing, plastic blocks etc, but I don't you can discredit them in the performance area. They have good pumps, they have fine blocks and their alu rads are for the most part as capable as brass rads. I don't think the issue is performance. Even if you can make an argument about 1-3C difference, it's no way in the mythical range of 10C like some make it seem. Personally I dislike Koolance's old blocks with plastic covers, especially those with integrated plastic barbs. Very bad design. But they seem to be shifting away from this type of design, I think they are doing pretty well.

1-3C? You must be part of Koolance's advertising department. Just like how they have to falsify data and create a misleading test environment to create a scenario in which they beat other competitors products. To bad the scenario isn't remotely close to the PC environment. Most competitors would be happy to stay within 1-3C of the market leader. You know a company is getting desperate when it needs to run falsified tests. Feel free to read through the later end of the following thread to watch Cathar, HWLabs, and other physicists shoot their 'testing" full of holes: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=148286&highlight=Koolance
 
According to this review done by virtual-hideout.net the new koolance 330 cpu block performs similarly to an Apogee GT, or in some cases outperforms it. Sure, it's only one review, results aren't set in stone, but everything about the 330 block's design suggests that it's very capable. It's quite clever IMO.

Should we link images of those who purchased the block to see how easily/shockingly the gold plating gets chipped off? I'm sure that's "clever". Feel free to call up Sharka's and ask them how that block stacks up against other blocks. They'll tell you themselves its a PoS compared to the Fuzion or the AC Cuplex DI. They also plan on not carrying the 330 any longer. Funny how one of the larger retailers of Koolance parts on the US west coast doesn't figure it to be capable nor clever. Hell if you're going to gamble with an alu based product, it might as well be from more reputable companies.

The new CHC-120 chipset block has a similar design, and should outperform Swiftech's MCW30 (any block should :rolleyes: ) and it should perform similarly to EK's and DD's chipset blocks.

Funny how recent tests by a phD student over on XS showed the Swiftech and DD chipset blocks to be the best, trumping even the EK's that I'm fond of. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=152686


Basically what I'm trying to get at is that you may dislike Koolance for different reasons such as metal mixing, plastic blocks etc, but I don't you can discredit them in the performance area. They have good pumps, they have fine blocks and their alu rads are for the most part as capable as brass rads. I don't think the issue is performance. Even if you can make an argument about 1-3C difference, it's no way in the mythical range of 10C like some make it seem. Personally I dislike Koolance's old blocks with plastic covers, especially those with integrated plastic barbs. Very bad design. But they seem to be shifting away from this type of design, I think they are doing pretty well.

1-3C? You must be part of Koolance's advertising department. Just like how they have to falsify data and create a misleading test environment to create a scenario in which they beat other competitors products. To bad the scenario isn't remotely close to the PC environment. Most competitors would be happy to stay within 1-3C of the market leader. You know a company is getting desperate when it needs to run falsified tests. Feel free to read through the later end of the following thread to watch Cathar, HWLabs, and other physicists shoot their 'testing" full of holes: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=148286&highlight=Koolance
 
Personally I dislike Koolance's old blocks with plastic covers, especially those with integrated plastic barbs. Very bad design. But they seem to be shifting away from this type of design, I think they are doing pretty well.

i really like where they are going too, they seem to be moving towards a competitive business model rather than fully innovating in their own way. it seems they want to cater to not only their own exclusive customers, but also the total DIY'er the majority of us are.

my only constant gripe, like most other users here, is their continued use of aluminum.

the real world difference for me, moving to a PA120.3 was/is inane (yes, inane is a word and i didnt miss typing an 's' in there lol). its just a simple fact for me and my own experiences that at the lowest amount of airflow aluminum does not perform as well as the brass/copper competition...

although i cant iterate it enough, this is my OWN experience. if you want concrete knowledge/proof, buy your own koolance branded stuff and test it out. there doesnt seem to be any takers on bringing in the financial footing to compare the range of products available to us all in a setting that represents real world usage. (measuring heat dissipation with 84°c coolant is NOT the majority temperature in liquid cooled PC's)

with that said, i really hope that koolance keeps their edge going, i am very interested in buying their new temp sensor thing system now that i can use 1/2" fittings with it!
 
Funny how Sharka computers themselves (talked with Wes) recommend against Koolance. They sell Koolance and D-Tek products. He even states that their entire line is not competitive with many others. Even in a Koolance friendly/biased test, the D-Tek Fuzion beat out the Koolance CPU block. Their sponsored review was posted on the front page of their very own website.

Koolance and like other kits are good only for those new looking to making their first jump into watercooling. Once you get your feet wet, you'll realize how much their price/quality hold you back.

Before you go off quoting people and companies you should get it straight. :rolleyes: Sharka hasn't been a Koolance dealer for several years now.
 
Just RMA'd part of my order back to Koolance. They sent me the wrong type of nozzles for my CHC-120. :mad: New PC delayed by 3 days.
 
i am using there compression fittings (i know not there blocks;) ) and i am happy with the result. the only thins i dont like about koolance is there prices. saying that for the same price or less there are better performing blocks out there but better does not make koolance bad.

i am going with koolance for my HTPC so i will be learning first hand wither they are any good or not.
 
Just RMA'd part of my order back to Koolance. They sent me the wrong type of nozzles for my CHC-120. :mad: New PC delayed by 3 days.

Least they sent you the right product.

I've got nothing good to say about Koolance Watercooling, having sold and supplied a few of their kits locally. Corrosion issues, poor RMA service, poor packing and expensive parts...
 
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