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Knight Rider CWC
- Thread starter marquee
- Start date
Part #1 of 2
So you want to Candy Paint.
In this guide, I will demonstrate how paint baking and candy painting is done. Remember, this is not the only way to bake paint. There is 100 different ways to do the paint baking but in the end the results will be the same. That said, you should read MNPCTECHs painting guide before reading my guide. That was the first painting guide I ever read and the first you should read to understand my technique in a better way. For a long time I followed MNPCTECH's guide but then I started to experiment with different ways and ways to shorten the time for the paint to dry. Thus my technique was created.
Remember . Please Remember
Remember that painting can be very relaxing and rewarding. This painting guide shows you how to paint with candy finishes and also how to oven bake your paint. Remember that I am a complete novice and my guide cant be accountable for any damages to you or your property. Remember this might be quicker way to paint but you need to keep a close eye on the paint at all times. Literally, I was watching the paint bake all the way through just in case anything happened. This is because paint fumes are very combustible and you need to purge your ovens air once in a while.
What you need..
You need a nice area to work in. I always liked working inside in a well ventilated area because you can better control the environment. The METALCAST paint is very picky in the temperature it likes to dry in, but by baking it we overcome that issue. You need a oven that you dont plan on using the whole time you are baking. Make sure your oven also has a vent in one of the 4 burners above it. Mine has a little pipe that runs from the oven to the top right hand side burner. This will allow some air to escape.
Oven
METALCAST ground coat
METALCAST tint
Scratch Filler & Primer (Red Primer)
Sand Paper (200,300,400)
Clear Coat
Rubber Gloves
Tape
Anodized Finish
To create the anodized finish like the Drive Bay you need to take the bare metal and wash it with soap and hot water. Then dry off. Tape up any areas were there will be moving parts like CD drive coming in contact with the drive bay. These areas we can not be paint because they need a specific clearness and the paint will normally exceed that clearness room. To anodize you dont need the ground coat or primer. The tint needs to be first heated up. I used a pitcher filled with hot tap water, then I placed a dish over the can so it doesnt float. I waited about 10mins, then took the can out. I started to shake the can. I put on the rubber gloves then I started to paint. Use very thin coats. Set the piece down and come back every 10min to 15min to paint again. If you want a more copperish look to the paint then only do a couple coats (2). If you want a deeper red, I would say do more like coats (5). But with doing 5 coats you need to pay extra attention to how thick the paint it becoming. At this point you can let it dry and still come out with nice paint job. But my secret is to bake it.
In Canada there are very cold temps during the winter and thus its difficult to paint. I painted out side once and the paint job was smooth but was very oopeg. The oven baking further smoothes out the paint and makes the surface glossy again.
Clean with hot soapy water. Dry
Warm-up can.
Paint the subject
First Dry ( if you do not want to bake stop now and still end up with nice paintjob)
Bake
Cool
What you get is.
Part #2 will be posted on TTM.
So you want to Candy Paint.
In this guide, I will demonstrate how paint baking and candy painting is done. Remember, this is not the only way to bake paint. There is 100 different ways to do the paint baking but in the end the results will be the same. That said, you should read MNPCTECHs painting guide before reading my guide. That was the first painting guide I ever read and the first you should read to understand my technique in a better way. For a long time I followed MNPCTECH's guide but then I started to experiment with different ways and ways to shorten the time for the paint to dry. Thus my technique was created.
Remember . Please Remember
Remember that painting can be very relaxing and rewarding. This painting guide shows you how to paint with candy finishes and also how to oven bake your paint. Remember that I am a complete novice and my guide cant be accountable for any damages to you or your property. Remember this might be quicker way to paint but you need to keep a close eye on the paint at all times. Literally, I was watching the paint bake all the way through just in case anything happened. This is because paint fumes are very combustible and you need to purge your ovens air once in a while.
What you need..
You need a nice area to work in. I always liked working inside in a well ventilated area because you can better control the environment. The METALCAST paint is very picky in the temperature it likes to dry in, but by baking it we overcome that issue. You need a oven that you dont plan on using the whole time you are baking. Make sure your oven also has a vent in one of the 4 burners above it. Mine has a little pipe that runs from the oven to the top right hand side burner. This will allow some air to escape.
Oven
METALCAST ground coat
METALCAST tint
Scratch Filler & Primer (Red Primer)
Sand Paper (200,300,400)
Clear Coat
Rubber Gloves
Tape
Anodized Finish
To create the anodized finish like the Drive Bay you need to take the bare metal and wash it with soap and hot water. Then dry off. Tape up any areas were there will be moving parts like CD drive coming in contact with the drive bay. These areas we can not be paint because they need a specific clearness and the paint will normally exceed that clearness room. To anodize you dont need the ground coat or primer. The tint needs to be first heated up. I used a pitcher filled with hot tap water, then I placed a dish over the can so it doesnt float. I waited about 10mins, then took the can out. I started to shake the can. I put on the rubber gloves then I started to paint. Use very thin coats. Set the piece down and come back every 10min to 15min to paint again. If you want a more copperish look to the paint then only do a couple coats (2). If you want a deeper red, I would say do more like coats (5). But with doing 5 coats you need to pay extra attention to how thick the paint it becoming. At this point you can let it dry and still come out with nice paint job. But my secret is to bake it.
In Canada there are very cold temps during the winter and thus its difficult to paint. I painted out side once and the paint job was smooth but was very oopeg. The oven baking further smoothes out the paint and makes the surface glossy again.
Clean with hot soapy water. Dry
Warm-up can.
Paint the subject
First Dry ( if you do not want to bake stop now and still end up with nice paintjob)
Bake
Cool
What you get is.
Part #2 will be posted on TTM.
I have got a couple of PMs about the baking. The baking is a little risky and I need to explain more in detail how to bake, what temps and how to make this guide a gas stove friendly method, thats why there is a second part to the guide.
In the second part of this guide there will be a chart for dry times, temps, cooling time all in relation to what kinda material you are painting.
In the second part of this guide there will be a chart for dry times, temps, cooling time all in relation to what kinda material you are painting.
Cpt Twitchy
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2004
- Messages
- 636
still need me to contact that cnc shop? I am sorry I totally forgot. Haven't even been here for weeks.
While I was gone from the forums I still was modding. Not as much but a little. I was hoping to meat my May deadline for this case to but some stuff came up.
Any way here is what has been done. The pic speak for them self.
Some Hanging issues.
Need to be more like this though.
I add some support but need more support before it can stand right.
Any way here is what has been done. The pic speak for them self.
Some Hanging issues.
Need to be more like this though.
I add some support but need more support before it can stand right.
jmroberts70
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2002
- Messages
- 2,953
Good to see some progress mate! Keep it up.
This is the back frame but I dont like the way it looks mightt haave re-paint it.
This is the turbo box with all the fins cut off. Also using spot putty to even the surface out.
I am even starting on the pump mount. Since this case is a small atk case its kinda hard to cram in a 1250 pump.
This is the turbo box with all the fins cut off. Also using spot putty to even the surface out.
I am even starting on the pump mount. Since this case is a small atk case its kinda hard to cram in a 1250 pump.
hey Marquee, ive just been looking at this project from day one till now and all i can say is WOW - This is AWSOME!!!!
Im liking the whole knightrider theme. One question - how are you going to create teh led scanner lights. Are you going to make it yourself or buy it ready made?
Keep up the great work (cant wait for the final result)
Im liking the whole knightrider theme. One question - how are you going to create teh led scanner lights. Are you going to make it yourself or buy it ready made?
Keep up the great work (cant wait for the final result)
Thanks again m8.
The LED chaser I was going to make. But I have second thoughts on that because I say a pre built LED chaser for a car dashboard and is cheap in price. The reason why I am not to found in making it, is because I am not the best with wiring and electrical components. Since the LED chaser is such a major piece to the case I rather have is pre built then make it my self.
New update coming this weekend. The frame is almost finished being painted.
The LED chaser I was going to make. But I have second thoughts on that because I say a pre built LED chaser for a car dashboard and is cheap in price. The reason why I am not to found in making it, is because I am not the best with wiring and electrical components. Since the LED chaser is such a major piece to the case I rather have is pre built then make it my self.
New update coming this weekend. The frame is almost finished being painted.
AlexStenka
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,314
nice work bro........lovin it.
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2005
- Messages
- 5,059
Nice work so far man. I can't wait to see the finished product.
Some good news flew modders.
The turbo below, was chipped in the front and needed to be fixed. Also the holes at the top were to big. Well this morning I was trying out the AOC fans on the turbo and they fit perfect. I mean, they cover up the extra gap on the fan hole because AOC fan is thicker in size. This just means less work for me.
By tonight I should have the turbo finished in Bondo and hopefully primed. Also today I am going try and get the RAD mount bracket finished but thats hard to do when I have no metal blade for my jig saw.
The turbo below, was chipped in the front and needed to be fixed. Also the holes at the top were to big. Well this morning I was trying out the AOC fans on the turbo and they fit perfect. I mean, they cover up the extra gap on the fan hole because AOC fan is thicker in size. This just means less work for me.
By tonight I should have the turbo finished in Bondo and hopefully primed. Also today I am going try and get the RAD mount bracket finished but thats hard to do when I have no metal blade for my jig saw.
jmroberts70
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2002
- Messages
- 2,953
lookin' good!
I said I would try to do the Bondo work on the front so I did. Since I am so into the case right now might as well do more work before the work week begins? Ok here is what I did.
I first broke off the piece of plastic that was flapping.
Then I made a cardboard trace of the area needed to be filled.
Then cut a piece of plexi to that size.
Then I had to sanded the plexi so its the right thickness to fit in the hole.
When that was done I cleaned the area that I was going to epoxy the plexi to.
epoxyed the plexi to turbo.
Then waited for it to dry.
I am using anew bondo, this stuff is the carbon fiber stuff.
It has strands of fiber in it to make it stronger.
Also when dry its harder to sand.
I mixed allot of this stuff so I did the front and there was some small dents in the side so I filled them too..
I first broke off the piece of plastic that was flapping.
Then I made a cardboard trace of the area needed to be filled.
Then cut a piece of plexi to that size.
Then I had to sanded the plexi so its the right thickness to fit in the hole.
When that was done I cleaned the area that I was going to epoxy the plexi to.
epoxyed the plexi to turbo.
Then waited for it to dry.
I am using anew bondo, this stuff is the carbon fiber stuff.
It has strands of fiber in it to make it stronger.
Also when dry its harder to sand.
I mixed allot of this stuff so I did the front and there was some small dents in the side so I filled them too..
Blahblah123456
Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2006
- Messages
- 800
That's some crazy work man, nice job all around. I will suscribe to this.
XteriorMotive
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2005
- Messages
- 325
yeah your mods is coming along awesomely im still looking forward to the outcome
First I started buy making a sketch and cardboard model.
Here was the original idea for the bracket.
Here is the first issue I found with the Turbo case: In the areas with no Bondo / putty filler, its not smooth. I am going to try to sand the whole turbo again to smooth it out. If that doesnt work I am going to putty it all up.
Here was the original idea for the bracket.
Here is the first issue I found with the Turbo case: In the areas with no Bondo / putty filler, its not smooth. I am going to try to sand the whole turbo again to smooth it out. If that doesnt work I am going to putty it all up.
mrweasel said:when will we get an update?
This may rival the Batman case in terms of time to completion
Laugh it up skippy
I've gotta make a correction marquee, the stuff you are using "pro-glass" or whatever glass it is....is fiberglass not carbon fiber. Fiberglass should be used to patch holes and if you want to put a paint finish on top of it, you'll have to either bondo or spot putty over the fiberglass.
I have been working on the case little by little. Atleast once or twice a week I go and work on the case for 2Hr or so.
When the whole case is finished I will do a update on time release. I have choose to do like this because my summer has become really bussy.
When the whole case is finished I will do a update on time release. I have choose to do like this because my summer has become really bussy.