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Just put together new loop, need help with temps

T

thatguyX

n00b
Joined
Jun 7, 2004
Messages
52
Recently, I went from a GPU loop only (gtx285, EK-FC block, XSPC RX-120, Swiftech MCP350 + XSPC top), to a GPU and CPU loop (i7 920 w/ no overclock and added an KH 3.0 LT and XSPC RX240 with 2 Noiseblocker 51CFM fans in push). However upon first boot up after my CPU idling around 42C; I came from an idle of 29-31C with my Zalman CNPS9900. The cpu is idling at 42C and the gpu at 40C right now. Previously on CPU-air GPU-WC, I was at 29/41C idle respectively.

Any advice on what i'm doing wrong? I know I added more heat ~315W to the system but I've effectively tripled my rad space. I tried reseating the HK by using a rice-grain sized tab of AS5 and then spread it out. I believe the HK spring tension is at ~18mm. Should I re-seat the CPU using the pea sized method and then just let the HS compress it into place? I read somewhere that I may have created air pockets when I spread out my AS5. Also Arctic silver says that after breakin, my temps should go down between 2~5C, but still 40-37 idle on WC vs 29C air just doesn't seem right.

I'd like to get back to my lower idles, load doesn't bother me too much as I'm going for mostly silence. However, I have my two noiseblockers at full speed (but they're still quiet at 1250RPM)
 
That's strange. How's the water temperature? Are you sure something isn't installed backwards and/or blocking flow?
 
I don't think those temps are too far out of line ... you're now cooling the i7 and the GPU on a triple rad. I see mid 30s at idle on my i7 920 (ambient 22-23) and it's on it's own triple radiator - PA120.3.

Have you checked your load temps?

You can also try some higher speed fans on your radiators. You might get improvement with a stronger pump ... you can mod your 350 to the 355 specs, but I doubt the pump is the issue.
 
@AVT so far there are still bubbles in the loop (i can only see into the EK wb which has a very bubbles in it), the only thing that may be restricting any flow is a silverkills coil that i have in one of the tubes (ID 3/8"). It looks a little cramped but flow should be going through. The only other restrictive things I can think of are the 2 bitspower 90 compression adapters.

@shazza haven't checked my load temps (I know there's a more official way, but I usually just play CoD5 for a bit and check temps every 30 minutes). The rad's don't feel warm at all compared to how warm my single RX120 would be after 1hr or gaming. I'll test in a bit and get back to you.

Here's a pic of the new loop if this anyone sees anything wrong with it let me know. BTW that thing in the tubing after the pump is Petra's Silverkills coils

 
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thatguyX said:
@AVT so far there are still bubbles in the loop (i can only see into the EK wb which has a very bubbles in it), the only thing that may be restricting any flow is a silverkills coil that i have in one of the tubes (ID 3/8"). It looks a little cramped but flow should be going through. The only other restrictive things I can think of are the 2 bitspower 90 compression adapters.

@shazza haven't checked my load temps (I know there's a more official way, but I usually just play CoD5 for a bit and check temps every 30 minutes). The rad's don't feel warm at all compared to how warm my single RX120 would be after 1hr or gaming. I'll test in a bit and get back to you.

Here's a pic of the new loop if this anyone sees anything wrong with it let me know. BTW that thing in the tubing after the pump is Petra's Silverkills coils

Click to expand...

Your radiators should not be warm (well, warm enough to notice) unless your heat load is too much for the radiator to dissipate.
The killcoil shouldn't measurably restrict flow, unless I'm mistaken. To get those bubble out of your graphics card block, give it a few forceful whacks by flicking your index finger.
 
any other ideas on how to lower the idle on my CPU? I really feel like it should be closer to ambient temp (24C). I could understand if it was like 29C again, but 37C just seems high, especially since the system is at idle. I think it may be possible that by applying AS5 and then smearing it may have made air pockets, would that account for the higher idle temp?

I've tried load testing using Everest benchmark test, the CPU use goes to 100% and at 20 minutes the temp doesn't go higher than 48C which isn't too bad i guess. I need to try other programs to stress test.
 
I don't see anything obviously wrong with your loop, other than the tubing from the GPU to the res is a bit long - although that probably allows you to easily tip the reservoir to drain.

Seriously ... I've seen a lot of i7 temps reported on water in addition to my own, and very few are lower than mid-30s at idle. Getting a few degrees above ambient is unrealistic (at least from my experience and what I've read) I'm assuming you are currently at stock - what's your Vcore? That 29C temp you got with air seems a bit on the low side? Any chance you changed monitoring programs, or that you've seen a gradual rise in ambient temps lately?

If you are seeing less than 50 at 100%, that's quite good. You can run 24/7 with no concerns. An easy way to test CPU load temps is to use Real Temp ... you download Prime95 and run a cool down test that loads everything to 100%, then shows the drop in temps as it cools down. Also let's you check the responsiveness of the various core sensors.
 
new load tests are pushing CPU Load to 67C under prime95 after 40 minutes. I guess it's ok since it's under 70C, but I just keep thinking that it should be lower. Ambient temp is around 24-25C, but the room does get a bit warm (bad ventilation, nothing I can do about it)

@shazza: The Vcore at idle is around 1.06V and jumps to 1.26V when the processor is actually doing anything ie more than 2% usage. This causes an immediate ~10C jump. I've been using Asus AI Suite, Everest and recently Realtemp to monitor temps. They're all within 1-2C of each other. Ambient temp outside has gone up lately (~high 70s), but my room should be at about a consistent 25-26C unless stress testing for awhile, then it may be higher.

Any tips or advice on how I can lower my temps overall? I understand that measuring idle isn't that imporant, but I feel like the idle is still at a high starting point (usually around 40~42C)? As of now the Noiseblockers are running at 7V (~1000rpm) and the Lian Li is at 7V (900+/- rpm) (soon to be replaced with another 7V Nosieblocker), when running at 12V i didn't notice too much of a difference in temp, but much more noise. Is my loop overloaded-but-capable with only 3x120mm rad space or should I have some headroom? Maybe a shroud or some kind of seal between the fans and rad? I've got some ArcticClean and Prep on the way, hopefully one more clean and reseat of the CPU will help.

Also, I've run with the cap off and been tapping on the res and GPU block, but they always seem to have bubbles in them, where are they coming from?! I've tilted my case back and forth over and over, could air still be trapped in the rad and I have to turn the whole thing completely upside down?
 
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Im no expert, but id imagine you dont have enough radiator to get lower temps. When I was talking about a i7 and gpu peeps were saying a MCR320 would barely cut it... Also idle is kinda relative... if your radiator cant dissipate the heat to get a lower water temp than idle will just be a measure of the heat dissipation that your radiator can do... Example... Turn on the computer water is at room temp... if you measured idle immediately would be 30c... However CPU heats up the loop that is unable and rad can only dissipate enough heat to keep at 42C at idle.
Just out of curiosity where is your tubing going after the radiator??

Also if you were getting 29 idle on air for sure then its either not enough radiator or improper heatsink fit.
 
@Ogre67: It seems that I just might need more rad space >_< I was going by Skinee's lab test, which said I should be able to do about 350W with the RX360 with fans on on low speed. I thought maybe it's because I'm not using a true RX360, but a 120+240. Unless maybe because on the 240 it's exhausting warmer case air? I guess my loop is good enough for now as I doubt I will overheat anything; I'm just not happy the temps. If I had the money for a new case, I'd probably end up trying to get something I can fit an RX360 in plus my 240, and maybe throw in the 120 just for sh*ts and giggles.

The loops goes Res/Pump>90* elbow>RX 120>RX 240>90* Elbow>HK LT>EK GTX>RES/Pump.

I will refit the heatsink today, only because I should be getting in some Arctic clean... I've been using isopropyl 70% (only thing I had) with some q-tips

:edit
Is there any kind of shroud/gasket I can use to seal the Noiseblockers to the rad? They have a unique design and I think I may be able to squeeze a little more efficiency out of them if I seal them a little better.
300x340_luefter_multiframe_mf12-s2.jpg
 
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