JTS-air - open source mITX case for DIY

[JoanTheSpark]

*** UPDATE at bottom of this post ***

Hi there. 1st post. Been lurking since I stumbled across the M1 thread 4 weeks ago as I need a new computer. I've been thinking about mITX for 3 years now (running mATX since 5 yrs in an Antec NSK1380) , but never found a case that ticks all my boxes:

• no ODD
• no silly design (especially the front)
• no wasted space
• good ventilation concept
• full height (not length) dual slot gpu
• (no 3.25" drives)

Some cases that I nearly considered came, like SS FT03, cooltek coolcube, chieftec uni bt03 or SS sg05 but I had always some gripes with them.
I also learned by above thread that the case manufacturers seem really not to be that interested in what they consider a niche market for the next time, thus I have to do it myself.

I was on the fence on the M1 but there where some things I didn't like:

• unsure about the timeframe (if/when you finally get it)
• ventilation from side/bottom to top with no straight way through the case
• buttons/jacks at front bottom (my desk usually has a layer of stuff on it )

So here we are..
What you can see on the following pictures is about 3 days CAD and several more days sketches on paper to go through concepts.
I show them to you in case some of you guys have some input for things I might have missed or solved badly.
I want to make the drawings that come from this public domain (dxf files for laser-cutting the parts), just in case anyone out there is interested to follow my footsteps - I don't intend to make any kind of crowdfunding project out of this - I'll just share the drawings once finished, that's it.

Design goal:

• mITX
• dual slot, full height 180mm gpu
• straight airflow through case
• 4x 2.5", no ext. ODD, no 3.25"
• as small as possible with prototype
• as clean as possible (I hate visible screws like the next guy)
• (no need for overclocking, no need for watercooling)

The base structure is 2mm aluminum, the drive cage also. The covers are 1.6mm aluminum.
Currently the plan for the doors is to keep them in place by self adhesive velcro (no idea if this will work).
Size: 148.4W x 245.0D x 315.2H, 11.5 L (~3 gal)







As by now I'm waiting for the board and some other components for measurements..so the pci slots are rough as is the jacket area besides the on/off switch.
That the case can house mDTX is because of the dual slot gpus fan intake >> ~15mil airgap to the bottom there.

PS: if anyone does know about a case (like the concept above) that can be bought now I'd like to hear about it as it will save me a lot of headaches

=============================================================================================================
UPDATE:

CAD files for the version I made (3/4mm rivnuts, Silverstone USB IO, 19mm pushbutton) can be downloaded now from Thingiverse. I will be adding modifications later, such as..

• pilot holes in doors
• just pilot holes for rivnuts
• no USB IO
• just pilot hole for pushbutton
• etc..

Thingiverse: JTS-air

 

[Skott]

So you are using the psu as the only exhaust? Or does the psu pull in air?

 

[liangr]

From the pictures that drive cage seems awfully close to the PSU.. How would the cables come out? Modular cable plug sticks out more.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

So you are using the psu as the only exhaust? Or does the psu pull in air?

PSU blows air out.
Exhaust will be..

• psu - what the psu fan is pulling through the hdd area
• the big hole to the right of the ATX I/O panel - essentially cpu heat
• the gpu I/O panel - if there are holes in it

It's probably better to see here:

 

[crABtoad]

It's definitely interesting. This seems like the kind of case Lian Li would make if they used internal space more efficiently.

The PSU placement seems fine as an exhaust.

The drive cage sets of some red flags for me. It seems too close to the PSU cables/plugs (like liangr said), and the drives wouldn't have any airflow over them. Have you considered a hanging drive cage putting them in the fan flow?

Really nice work though, kudos.

E: Oh, the only case close to this I can name is the LL PC-Q02. It's half the size, and you would have to cut the case to pieces for it to work like this...ruining the aesthetics in all likelihood.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

From the pictures that drive cage seems awfully close to the PSU.. How would the cables come out? Modular cable plug sticks out more.

Hm.. didn't want to use one like that. Isn't the 450W from SS the only SFX with plugs?
At the moment I'm going for a run of the mill 300W SFX psu - will def cut/remove wires I don't need.

Thanks for the pointer though - will check this thoroughly ones the parts are here *I hope next 4 days*

 

[Drown Babies]

I like this design a lot, it looks a lot like a fatter version of the LL PC-Q12. Those big fans on the front look like a great idea.

What do you plan on using that hole in the back for, 2X 80mm fans?

It looks like you have a lot of space between the exterior front panel and the front fans. I'm wondering if that much space is necessary to ensure good air flow to the fans.

And I'm not sure what you mean about the velcro, but that doesn't seem like the best way of securing the outer panels. Have you considered the snap on connector things that Lian Li uses (I have no idea what these are called). They work well, and don't have any externally visible parts.

 

[Zap]

I really dig this, and like it more (so far) than all of the other case designs tossed around here. It is actually rather close to how I envision my personal perfect ITX gaming case to be like.

I don't see mentioned, is the PSU ATX or SFX? EDIT: From above reply I guess it will be SFX. Perfect!

Since the drives are 2.5mm, I'm okay with no airflow. Unless you are running some VelociRaptors sans sled-heatsink (yes they sell them that way) then I see no heat issue since you'll be running SSDs or notebook HDDs.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

It's definitely interesting. This seems like the kind of case Lian Li would make if they used internal space more efficiently.

The PSU placement seems fine as an exhaust.

The drive cage sets of some red flags for me. It seems too close to the PSU cables/plugs (like liangr said), and the drives wouldn't have any airflow over them. Have you considered a hanging drive cage putting them in the fan flow?

Really nice work though, kudos.

E: Oh, the only case close to this I can name is the LL PC-Q02. It's half the size, and you would have to cut the case to pieces for it to work like this...ruining the aesthetics in all likelihood.

Hehe, yeah forgot to list that, front 'destroyed' by a ODD and the psu taking all the breathing space for the cpu cooler.
And before I modify a case that heavily I rather roll my own - bit more work, but more how I want it.

Can't say yet if I'm able to get more air to the hdds.. they got 5mm till the psu and have 10mm to the fan and are spaced ~10mm apart.
The psu should be pulling air through them somewhat.

 

[crABtoad]

Probably not going to be drawing air through them at all from those diagrams. The top fan intake would "skate" air across the bottom surface of the bottom drive, drawn towards the "draft" on the bottom of the PSU.

I don't think it would damage the drives to run them without airflow, but they would run hotter than usual in that configuration.

I think making your own case is going to be the way you need to roll with this one, that's a very specific design.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

I like this design a lot, it looks a lot like a fatter version of the LL PC-Q12. Those big fans on the front look like a great idea.

What do you plan on using that hole in the back for, 2X 80mm fans?

It looks like you have a lot of space between the exterior front panel and the front fans. I'm wondering if that much space is necessary to ensure good air flow to the fans.

And I'm not sure what you mean about the velcro, but that doesn't seem like the best way of securing the outer panels. Have you considered the snap on connector things that Lian Li uses (I have no idea what these are called). They work well, and don't have any externally visible parts.

Fans are 120mm.
Back I didn't plan any fans.. I think 80mm would just about fit there (just measured ~85mm), but with the bending of the 2mm alu and the I/O panel it's not worth it for me currently. I'd also rather try to shrink the dimensions a bit more (5mm ea side) if possible.

Space infront the 120mm fans is about 20-25mm. I need a bend to stabilize the front panel, that needs to be 10mm (minimum bend length) so the space between that and the base alu then is the air-gap for the fans to suck through.
Another thing I want/need there is some space for filter material and maybe some kind of dampening stuff too.

As for LLs fixings.. they're sure nice, but the whole build will run roughly like this:
- get the parts laser cut
- bevel some holes for countersunk screws and check stuff
- get it bended (and hope they have a good day )
- check stuff again
- see if it can be anodized, otherwise spraypainting it is
- assembly (rivnuts/nutserts)
LLs fixings need space behind, tooling (puching the plugs into the doors) and I would have no idea where to get and at what cost.
On the other hand people tape their SSDs to cases with velcro for a while now, so should work *fingers crossed*

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Probably not going to be drawing air through them at all from those diagrams. The top fan intake would "skate" air across the bottom surface of the bottom drive, drawn towards the "draft" on the bottom of the PSU.

I don't think it would damage the drives to run them without airflow, but they would run hotter than usual in that configuration.

I think making your own case is going to be the way you need to roll with this one, that's a very specific design.

I made the drivecage as gappy as possible. Some air should go through this.. it's not ideal true.
Better view:


As for specific design - for me it's a shrunken tower with smaller components. I really don't get why no one - besides the chieftec uni bt03 does something like this (I don't get chieftec here and import is too expensive + the case has a ODD thing in there and just a single pci slot.. I really thought about hacking this apart )

 

[crABtoad]

Okay, I didn't realize they hung down that far in front of the top fan.

The problem is simply audience-related for cases like this. Only a specific subset of enthusiasts (already a small demographic) care about cases that are this small, and an even smaller subset of them is very particular about how small cases are laid out due to having an "ideal" rig in mind already. That's my personal take on why some cases don't exist anyway.

 

[cowsgomoo]

For a start, designing a case based on "layer of stuff" on your table is plain weird.

 

[rued]

Have you considered rotating the drive cage so they are vertically oriented, allowing air to rise through them out the top. You can have the power/sata facing down toward the inside of the case, so you can still have easy access pulling them out from the top.

 

[Necere]

Aside from the crowding with the drives/lack of cable space in front of the PSU, the other thing that immediately jumps out at me is the width (or lack of it). Were you planning on putting a higher-end GPU in? As I'm sure you're aware, the ASUS DC Mini is basically the only option currently available for a higher power GPU under 180mm long, but it looks to me like there's not enough space for it. The DC Mini uses a custom PCB that's wider than a standard card, so you need to take that into account if you're considering it. With your current width, you'd have no room for the PCIe power connectors/cables:




I understand your criticisms of the M1, but bear in mind that when designing something to be mass manufactured you have to consider a large number of different use cases; designing something for yourself alone allows you the luxury of tailoring everything to your specific needs. I've considered layouts similar to this - and I actually prefer the airflow scheme as well - but when taking into account the requirements of an actual marketable product it ends up being considerably bigger than what I came up for the M1. You can't expect people to mod their PSU cables, for example, or only use the non-modular version of a PSU (though those are exactly what's required to fit an ATX PSU in the M1 - but it's not the default option). You also can't expect people to settle for a short GPU, which is currently limited to a single manufacturer if they want a higher performance card (and no AMD option at all). Keep in mind as well that the DC Mini hadn't even been announced when the M1 was designed.

So to go with a similar layout supporting a ~10.5" GPU (what I would consider a baseline for a performance SFF), plus some other concessions to usability, would necessitate a bump to probably 16-18L+. Size was a top priority for the M1, so that wasn't going to cut it.

 

[XcPNehVYlE4A3C]

great design!

I've had the same issues with other cases as you.

I've thought about chopping up a pcQ02 a la Machupo's neutronium build, but the cheapest i can find one is 140 on ebay. I've thought about chopping the end off of a SG05 but the structure of that case makes that very hard.

This design is nice as the PSU doesn't have to be on top of the mobo, and there's a straight path for air. I might just follow along and build one too!

btw that Chieftec case you mentioned is available in the US under a different name from Fry's. I have one running a TFX psu. It's pretty nice, but limited to single slot cards.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

For a start, designing a case based on "layer of stuff" on your table is plain weird.

Rolling your own case is already weird, with so many variations to choose from.
And with the 'stuff on my table' I just accepted reality > form follows function

Have you considered rotating the drive cage so they are vertically oriented, allowing air to rise through them out the top. You can have the power/sata facing down toward the inside of the case, so you can still have easy access pulling them out from the top.

Depends on the cooler/how much space is in that area over the motherboard.. certainly an idea I'll be looking into for the airflow there and might also be better for the cable space at the psu there, I like it. Thanks.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Aside from the crowding with the drives/lack of cable space in front of the PSU, the other thing that immediately jumps out at me is the width (or lack of it). Were you planning on putting a higher-end GPU in? As I'm sure you're aware, the ASUS DC Mini is basically the only option currently available for a higher power GPU under 180mm long, but it looks to me like there's not enough space for it. The DC Mini uses a custom PCB that's wider than a standard card, so you need to take that into account if you're considering it. With your current width, you'd have no room for the PCIe power connectors/cables:

{pic of pci-e card height}

Yeah, space for modular PSU connectors wasn't on my list. Several reasons in no particular order..

• I never moved PSUs between computers/builts so no need to have flexibility in the cable area
• 90% of electrical problems I came across in my life were connector related, so the less the better
• Less space needed

As for higher end GPU, I'm not really sure. My current computer is by today's standards completely outdated. The last game I played was Eve Online and I stopped that about 2 years ago (just no time for this anymore). I want the space for a decent card there (whatever that means something in the range of GTX 650/660/660Ti atmo), but I'm probably not looking out for higher end.
I will definitely check out the space there and have an eye on those connectors to see what I'd have to do to enable it if possible, thanks for the pointer.

My current computer runs 24/7 and I want this one reasonable quiet on 100% air. I hope to achieve this.
Probably should have mentioned that up in the OP as a design goal..
So what I want is some kind of joe average pc in SFF with a decent looking case that is quiet and just air cooled. I'd bet that's pretty boring for most of the people frequenting these forums

I understand your criticisms of the M1, but bear in mind that when designing something to be mass manufactured you have to consider a large number of different use cases; designing something for yourself alone allows you the luxury of tailoring everything to your specific needs. I've considered layouts similar to this - and I actually prefer the airflow scheme as well - but when taking into account the requirements of an actual marketable product it ends up being considerably bigger than what I came up for the M1. You can't expect people to mod their PSU cables, for example, or only use the non-modular version of a PSU (though those are exactly what's required to fit an ATX PSU in the M1 - but it's not the default option). You also can't expect people to settle for a short GPU, which is currently limited to a single manufacturer if they want a higher performance card (and no AMD option at all). Keep in mind as well that the DC Mini hadn't even been announced when the M1 was designed.

So to go with a similar layout supporting a ~10.5" GPU (what I would consider a baseline for a performance SFF), plus some other concessions to usability, would necessitate a bump to probably 16-18L+. Size was a top priority for the M1, so that wasn't going to cut it.

I didn't meant my points as criticisms of the M1, far from it. I'm absolutely fascinated by how much stuff you can cramp in there and it's tiny size. I really have a hard time to stay 'significantly' smaller - especially considering the options I got in regards to tools/technologies I have at my disposal to build my case (I envy your options ).
My points where just personal info why I didn't take a M1 when I had the option to do so.
You did an amazing job!

 

[JoanTheSpark]

some update..

I played around with the modular SFX PSU from SS.
With a different cage one can fit 2 drives in that area. If there is need for 4 all up the other 2 need to be stuffed somewhere else. Plenty options for this though, so I'm not really worried. You might even turn the modular SS PSU upside down (intake from CPU area) and would have the space above it for another drive. Then there could be some space either at the rear underneath the GPU or with an additional bracket somewhere vertically behind the door. Nothing impossible.



I also checked the PCIe slots in the base frame by coming with the specifications from the placement of the PCIe connector on the motherboard (and the specs of the connector itself) and then making up a half length full height PCIe card with bracket... seems to fit.
The bracket overstays the outer dimensions on the back of the case - I'd probably just cut it off for myself - what's the pros opinion on this?

Same area of influence.. I'm looking at motherboard standoffs. Is 6/32" x 6.25mm long the standard or should I use something else?



I also tried that Asus GTX 670 card with 122 mm height.. you'd have to mod the connector somehow to get it powered. There is 7mm from the edge of the card to the inside of the door.

 

[crABtoad]

6-32 standoff is most common, I don't know that there's a standard to speak of though.

The PCI bracket on the back...I would just leave it. It's out of sight provided the case is oriented the usual way. If you didn't have the tab at the back, the weight of the card would be solely on the PCIE slot, not good if the card is mounted in this case's orientation. Was this the part of the bracket you were referring to?

The case needs to be either wider (to support GTX 670 mini like Necere indicated), or longer (to support standard length GPUs, or you need to go with something lower grade for graphics. I totally missed this on the first pass, I thought the height was the depth because I'm used to shoe-box cases.

Drives...I really think you need to reconsider that drive area in the top of the case. It's really cramped on the PSU connectors, and hiding stuff in the very top of the case is going to guarantee that they get virtually no airflow. Have you seen the Node 304 by Fractal? They have a hanging drive cage so that they're right in the line of airflow without obstructing the air flow very much at all. I think having them hanging in front of the top fan, sideways so that they don't reduce the air intake too much, would be the way to go.

I didn't think you were criticizing the NCASE M1 at all, you're just highly specific about your ideal case.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

6-32 standoff is most common, I don't know that there's a standard to speak of though.

The PCI bracket on the back...I would just leave it. It's out of sight provided the case is oriented the usual way. If you didn't have the tab at the back, the weight of the card would be solely on the PCIE slot, not good if the card is mounted in this case's orientation. Was this the part of the bracket you were referring to? ..

I'm referring to the little 'tooth' on the bracket that slides into a cutout in the backwall besides the motherboard.
Currently, with 6mm standoffs and the sheet thicknesses I selected (2mm base frame, 1.6mm outer shell & doors), that little tooth is 1mm inside the door
I can only use higher standoffs to work around this (or trimming that tooth)... thats why I asked what the standard is (or what the pro's think about trimming the bracket)

..
The case needs to be either wider (to support GTX 670 mini like Necere indicated), or longer (to support standard length GPUs, or you need to go with something lower grade for graphics. I totally missed this on the first pass, I thought the height was the depth because I'm used to shoe-box cases.

Drives...I really think you need to reconsider that drive area in the top of the case. It's really cramped on the PSU connectors, and hiding stuff in the very top of the case is going to guarantee that they get virtually no airflow. Have you seen the Node 304 by Fractal? They have a hanging drive cage so that they're right in the line of airflow without obstructing the air flow very much at all. I think having them hanging in front of the top fan, sideways so that they don't reduce the air intake too much, would be the way to go.

I didn't think you were criticizing the NCASE M1 at all, you're just highly specific about your ideal case.

I tried to increase width in the cad model mk3 but my prog didn't like that with all the successive conditions between the parts.. so I started over. This time the model can take it (cad model mk4).
For a test I increased the width so far that it would be able to fit 140mm fans, the ASUS GTX670 with normal PCI power connectors and the drives would be sitting behind the door.
See images.



Personally I will not go down that road, but once I know what the pitfalls with my version are (once I got it in flesh) it would be no big deal to adjust this version accordingly, in case there is interest for drawings of that.

 

[vipz]

I'm referring to the little 'tooth' on the bracket that slides into a cutout in the backwall besides the motherboard.
Currently, with 6mm standoffs and the sheet thicknesses I selected (2mm base frame, 1.6mm outer shell & doors), that little tooth is 1mm inside the door
I can only use higher standoffs to work around this (or trimming that tooth)... thats why I asked what the standard is (or what the pro's think about trimming the bracket)

Have you considered cutting notches in the door?

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Have you considered cutting notches in the door?

not really

Small update, came up with some piece to fix the pci-e bracket:

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Btw.. in regards to half length, full height within specs..
GTX 760: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 760 AMP!
or GTX 670: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 670 DUAL KING D5 2GB (mini)

Someone here on the forums did measure the 760:

rough estimates with card installed so i cant measure perfectly. this is from the edge of the case.
the PCB is about 175mm (6.88")
the heatsink is about 172mm (6.77")
the fans are about 170mm (6.7")
the fan shroud is about 197mm (7.75")

the shroud could easily be cut off to match the pcb size if needed.

source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1768913

The 670 is just 173mm long and is also marketed as mini ITX card.

One year from now there will probably be many more of these cards in the higher up range (same as with the SFF cases/PSUs).
No need to make it wider in the end.

Did make some thought-progress with the case and will probably try another approach.. PSU at the bottom and the board+GPU above. GPU and PSU sharing the same airgap, but with the GPU first it shouldn't be a problem. Should bring the height of the case down by 10mm and will prompt some messing with the HDD/SSD positions for better airflow to the GPU and more space for the PSU cabling.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Ok, on to mk5 (most of the parts for my build arrived - wrong PSU though, waiting for replacement).
You can see the Gigabyte H87N (CPU socket pos) and the TT BigTyp Revo pictured.

As per previous post I moved the PSU + HDD/SSDs down. The GPU and PSU now share the airgap and the GPU is now directly in the stream of the lower fan.

The HDD cage will be mounted to the bottom. Depending on the design (height) of that it would be possible to have a modular PSU.

Maximum length for a GPU to get into the case would depend mostly on the opening ~180mm (space between back-wall and case fan is ~190mm).
Should be enough wiggle room to get the GPU in position - the ~13mm.

The space above the motherboard and the door is ~120mm (CPU socket 10mm thick on motherboard - didn't check that dimension in reality, only with CPU placeholder) so some small CPU tower cooler might fit there too (ASUS/ASROCK boards probably).
The motherboard uses 8mm standoffs - so no need for cutouts in the door or cutting off pci-e brackets

It's possible to have 2x 80mm fans on the back-wall.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Ok, got some more time on my hands and all the parts I needed arrived as well to get some final measurements - USB/Audio IO is from Silverstone.. got also some sample(s) from ebay, but quality is not so well and they're USB2.0 only with audio and USB3.0 without audio.. so thought I might as well use SS there.
Looks like this now (MK5.3 btw ):


Final dimensions are 150W x 311H x 247D (11.52L)
As soon as I get the quote for cutting the parts I'll be ordering the base frame and little pieces to stick it all together. Then it's off to the bending (wish me luck they get it right) and throwing everything in there to see how it goes. Once that checks out fine I'll be ordering the shell and doors and fit them..

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Here's the quote for cutting the pieces (AUD) - just as a reference in case anyone is wondering.

 

[kajba]

This case remind me of Jonsbo V7s.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

This case remind me of Jonsbo V7s.

Yeah, but theirs are unneeded wide and they don't seem to have a somewhat engineered forced airflow concept on those.

You will notice the mk6 in the next drawings.. the somewhat old prog I'm using decided it doesn't like that I wanted to move one of the parts by 1mm and crapped the sheetmetal pieces all over the place
Anyhow got it redone and froze it - this will be cut now as is

The rivnuts/nutserts being used are M3 (8x) and M4 (10x), btw the little eyelets on the base frame are for cable ties.

 

[fixitman]

This is looking VERY interesting

 

[siRtobey]

Hmm I like this project! It's not what I need, but I have had a similar idea, but something more like the Alienware x51 (but with SFX PSU, so actually more similar to the SteamMachine prototype..), since I am more interested in using a full lenght GPU card. Will you also put the CAD Files under public domain? Would sure appreciate that!

 

[thexshadow]

If you ever build to sell this, I would most definitely buy one. I was working on almost the exact same design, except yours is WAY, WAY better. Also, On the front where the two fans are, would a 240 rad fit there (I don't think you posted the spacing between the fans, but I may have over looked that).

 

[siRtobey]

He won't, but he said he'd release the CAD files, so you can choose a company with a laser cutter, and they'll cut it out for you.

 

[thexshadow]

He won't, but he said he'd release the CAD files, so you can choose a company with a laser cutter, and they'll cut it out for you.

That's awesome. I would have to make a few changes, but that is awesome!

 

[JoanTheSpark]

This is looking VERY interesting

Thanks.

Hmm I like this project! It's not what I need, but I have had a similar idea, but something more like the Alienware x51 (but with SFX PSU, so actually more similar to the SteamMachine prototype..), since I am more interested in using a full lenght GPU card. Will you also put the CAD Files under public domain? Would sure appreciate that!

Don't know if they will be useful to anybody really. As you can see I had to redo the sheet metal parts 3 or 4 times already just because the dependencies within the assembly are causing all kinds of odd behavior and you easily get to the point where it's easier to redo the sheet metal parts.
The prog I'm using is Autodesk Inventor 2010 educational, the gear inside (mb, gpu, fans, etc.) are plain part files that get stuck together in an assembly file (orientation, distances, ..). Then the sheetmetal parts are being added and that's where it becomes messy if one decides to change stuff after you got everything created.
Maybe I'll try a more recent version of the prog and see how that faires..

On the other hand if I were to export the stuff it won't be helpful either as the adjust-ability won't convert.

As for full GPU length - I'm convinced one would need to go down the route of the FT-03 or similar to make it appealing and not create just another shoe-box.

If you ever build to sell this, I would most definitely buy one. I was working on almost the exact same design, except yours is WAY, WAY better. Also, On the front where the two fans are, would a 240 rad fit there (I don't think you posted the spacing between the fans, but I may have over looked that).

The vertical spacing between the fans in the CAD is 10mm.
For a rad you probably need more space there though (thickness) - my design goal was purely air cooled. Will see how I go and if I find the time to modify some version to get a rad in there.

I don't know if it's sell-able. I want to go with velcro to fix the doors to the frame as I don't have access to these nice studs/clips Lian Li is using nor do I want screw-heads visible on the outside.
Also once the dxf files for cutting the parts are out all one would need is some sheetmetal shop that can accurately cut/bend alu and some spare time + skill/knack to assemble it.

 

[JoanTheSpark]

He won't, but he said he'd release the CAD files, so you can choose a company with a laser cutter, and they'll cut it out for you.

Yes, what you can see on the last pic, the flat sheetmetal pieces, is essentially the most stable/frozen thing that everyone can easily use and will be available. It's just information in one flat layer about how the sheet must be cut and where the folds are (they can engrave that during the cutting process so you don't have to measure that later yourself - way more faster and accurate).


What I don't bother with to give out you can see on the following pic..

That would be the whole assembly with all dependencies and what not. Changing something in there causes unforeseen trouble.. it shouldn't, cause this essentially is the way you should be able to modify it, but it does.

As I said, once I have this machine running I will try a more recent version of the program and see if it is more suitable to modify the assembly (especially the sheet metal pieces) once you change things and can probably produce a bunch of options/versions of the case.

 

[thexshadow]

Do you not even want any screws on the back of the case? Because you could wrap the panel around the back a 1/2 inch and have two screws there. And for the front, you could make a clip system. Bad picture, but maybe this?

 

[JoanTheSpark]

Do you not even want any screws on the back of the case? Because you could wrap the panel around the back a 1/2 inch and have two screws there. And for the front, you could make a clip system. Bad picture, but maybe this?

Every bend costs money (*), thus I want to keep their number to a minimum.
Screws on the back woudn't be a problem for me, but the clip system at the front would.
If I understand your proposal right, one would need a tool to make this. A normal sheetmetal shop can make you bends at any angle if the bended flange is at least 10mm for final bends and if you want 2 bends after each other they can't be as close together as you would need it for the clip to work.
If you try to get this offset by hand/DIY the result will certainly look ugly. Also the ear at the top/bottom bumps me a little

If the velcro doesn't work 4 countersunk screws in the side panels won't be the end of the world - that's my stance on this.

In the end people who want to built this as well need to be able to do it 'easily'. You already need a Rivnut/Nutsert tool, a drill (the plain vanilla Silverstone USB/IO has no holes, but needs them for mounting), pliers (to bend the cable tie eyelets a bit inwards) and 2 right hands or somebody with some skill for this

*) lasercutting runs me down ~100 bucks, bending ~90 bucks (~10 per bend), might let them weld up the corners in the shell - prob another ~20 bucks, then anodising (**, no idea on price yet), then you need to factor in the USB/IO for 20 and the pushbutton for 10.
If there would be a case out there by Lian Li or whoever that had the features I'd want (even a little bigger) I'd rather be buying that as it definitely would be cheaper and the outcome more predictable (quality, looks, etc.).

**) before the anodizing you have to use sanding paper to remove any blemishes.. I will try to get the brushed aluminum effect done myself, which isn't that easy.



I'll move the case fans 5 mm upwards, so if someone is hell bent on getting the longest card in there that's possible - going through the bottom case fan cutout gives you 234mm total inside length.
The card would then stick out into the intake area - the top case fan stays clear of the card then, as currently it might be a bit close.

Once I publish the initial run dxf files I'll make two versions. One with the holes for how I intend to use them and one with 1..2mm holes instead of the dedicated ones, so if someone needs/want's/has to, he can run his own diameters for them screws/nutserts/etc but has the exact positions already - I'm looking at you imperial guys there

 

[JoanTheSpark]

The new assembly is a bit friendlier to upstream changes..



Got some questions in regards to the water cooler though - the radiator/fan assembly to be exact..

1. can you mount that thing via the fans? > so that the radiator is screwed onto the fans and the fans onto the case..
2. does it matter if the fans push or pull through the radiator?
3. can you assembly it so, that the radiator would be sitting on one side of a panel and the fans on the other side? > max panel thickness..
4. are there restrictions to the orientation of the radiator? > air bubbles/filling/etc..
5. can you daisy chain 1x120 and 2x120 radiators? > how easy is it to modify the tube assembly..
6. pro/con of cpu/gpu having dedicated radiators vs all in one single loop? > even possible with the complete systems like H100i..?