Is this 120mm Yate Loon correctly undervolted?

ryansebiz

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
430
I want to be sure I did this right - don't want to fry my power supply.

I left the original yellow and black wires in the other molex connector for example's sake. I'll yank them if I've done this correctly.

Is it OK to leave the 3-pin connector as it is?

undervolt1jp1.jpg


undervolt3hr6.jpg
 
from the picture ... you have it wired wrong.

correct: red, black, yellow

You: yellow, red, black
 
Red and black wires from a MOLEX makes 5v

From what I can tell, you're still running it at 12v.
 
Red and black wires from a MOLEX makes 5v

From what I can tell, you're still running it at 12v.

If I were to disconnect the red and black cables running to the molex female connector (the one on the right with the yellow and extra black still connected) would that give me 5v?
 
If I were to disconnect the red and black cables running to the molex female connector (the one on the right with the yellow and extra black still connected) would that give me 5v?

No.... You need to take the Positive (red) fan lead and attach it to the RED line (that's connecting the 2 molex connectors) and the BLACK fan lead (negative) to the BLACK lead that's connecting the 2 molex connections.
 
No.... You need to take the Positive (red) fan lead and attach it to the RED line (that's connecting the 2 molex connectors) and the BLACK fan lead (negative) to the BLACK lead that's connecting the 2 molex connections.

So swap the reds and swap the blacks and it will be at 5v?

If I can't do that would it still be OK to use the 3-pin connector or will that possibly fry my power supply?
 
So swap the reds and swap the blacks and it will be at 5v?

If I can't do that would it still be OK to use the 3-pin connector or will that possibly fry my power supply?

Yep, switch each of the reds (that are in the MALE) connector, and the blacks as well, and seperate the other female molex completely.
 
Yep, switch each of the reds (that are in the MALE) connector, and the blacks as well, and seperate the other female molex completely.

After closer inspection of the molex connector I saw that each wire slot had a number from 1-4. The way I had it wired above, the red was in 1 and the black was in 2.

Now after switching the red and the black (to match the female molex from the power supply) I have the red in 4 and the black in 3.

I have also seperated the other female molex connector. Will the 3-pin connector pose a problem since the yellow wire still runs to the fan?

Is this ready to connect to my power supply?

undervoltwq5.jpg
 
If you want to undervolt a fan "correctly" then you really ought solder in a resistor in series with the red 12V line No crossed wires. Sure you eventually got the right wiring setup and got it to work which I'm glad to hear.

For example my Apevia 80mm fan is [email protected] so I slow it to 5.6V operation by soldering a 68 ohm resistor in series.
 
If you want to undervolt a fan "correctly" then you really ought solder in a resistor in series with the red 12V line No crossed wires. Sure you eventually got the right wiring setup and got it to work which I'm glad to hear.

For example my Apevia 80mm fan is [email protected] so I slow it to 5.6V operation by soldering a 68 ohm resistor in series.

I understand doing that for a 7v mod (as I think we've been over) but there's no wire crossing in a 5v fan mod. Adding a resistor is just adding a bit of extra heat...
 
Back
Top