M
MaMMa
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Asazman said:I have a DFI LanParty NFII Ultra B and a Mobile 2500+ and I'm at 225FSB.
I can't get anything over 200 FSB without failure
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Asazman said:I have a DFI LanParty NFII Ultra B and a Mobile 2500+ and I'm at 225FSB.
Asazman said:I have a DFI LanParty NFII Ultra B and a Mobile 2500+ and I'm at 225FSB.
his spec:-[Prometeia Mach I @ -50C]-
-[Abit NF7-S rev 2.0]-+-[AMD Mobile Barton 2500+ @ 13x215 2.1vcore @2.8Ghz]-
-[1GB Mushkin Level2 BH-5 (5-2-2-2) PC3500]-
-[Radeon 9800 Pro 256MB (425/775) {3DMark2001 19655}]-
-[3x 200GB 7200rpm 8MB Buffer]-+-[2x 80GB 7200rpm 8MB Buffer]-
MaMMa, I didnt' mean to discourage you or anything.MaMMa said:I can't get anything over 200 FSB without failure![]()
meowCat said:MaMMa, I didnt' mean to discourage you or anything.
at least you *should* give CPC Off a try to see how far your memory will overclock and find the sweet spot. I didn't say don't try it at all. I was just pointing out the performance hit you could get from doing it. but if your memory lets you far high enough, you could get some increase in performance. Doesn't the 1-21 BIOS have this feature though? I haven't spent much time playing with the 1-21 so I don't remember. if not, try 1-31 and disable CPC(Command Per Clock) in the memory department.
Matrices said:There is no point in running 20-30mhz higher FSB and turning CPC off. CPC on is 1T; CPC off is 2T. The performance hit incurred by disabling CPC makes it pointless to achieve higher FSB without it.
The main conondrum here is that to get high FSB, 225-250 range, you need single-sided, and therefore 256MB sticks. And then you need very specific 256MB sticks, namely BH5, paired with a DFI motherboard.
The problem here is that games using the best graphics engines are obviously demanding 1GB+ RAM now, so 256MB sticks are no good here. No point in OCing if your favorite new game is going to run poorly.
Basically the whole situation sucks.
yesMaMMa said:My question now is IF you get water cooling, if you ran the hoses strait up to your GPU and not ur CPU would it be cooler just to cool ur video card only then both the CPU and the GPU?
yes, that's why i was saying just watercool your vid card, that is if, you want to go that way. it's a little more economical and easiler to deal with one little GPU cooling than having both GPU and CPU cooling.Since it is only cooling the GPU then the water temps should be lower right?
well, there are many ways.. Arctic cooling VGA Silencer seems to be recommended by many oc'ers. It fits on easily, without troubles or modifications. A little bit of Vmodding maybe necessary to get the clocks up more. If you want to get heavy, some SLK800/SP97 HSF would be the way to go. The disadvantage is that, obviously, will take modifications to get the dang thing to fit. I'm not that familiar with the air cooling toys as I'm into waterchilling/phase-change cooling my vid cards and CPUs.. i don't even do normal watercooling.. so I can't recommend what are the best components for normal watercooling such as heatercores and few other odds and ends stuff.Other then that, what has the best cooling temps for air cooling on the 9800 XT? Once agian thanks for all the input and I hope my question help out others besides me.
you will need some high CFM/RPM rated fan to blow out the air at aggressive rate. Faster moving air is better. Have some good case fan to suck out the hot air out of your case. The more you suck out the hot air, the cooler inside your case will be. Apply a little fan on the SouthBridge sink if it bothers you.Sorry but there is another issue I am having. I have te 9800 XT. The stock fan and heatsink on this is almost directly blowing all of its heat striat up on to my Zalman blue heatsink on my south bridge and I know its adding heat to it. Would this screw with my OC?
i didn't know the normal gpu block costs $50. obviously someone goes to some expenive rip off shops.Matrices said:What is this, group therapy? Let's get serious. This is not about "negatives" or "positives" but a certain thing called _concrete reality_.
Reiterating the same claim a dozen times without any factual content proves nothing. Talking about how throwing $20 here and another $20 there for a miserable few mhz increase proves nothing. The fact remains: OCing obtained by air cooling the GPU is not going to be increased by watercooling to the extent that the performance difference (virtually none) is justified by the price ($50 GPU block, or not watercooling the CPU, thus lower CPU speeds, memory speeds, and bsu speeds for air-cooling)
now that is even more rediculous words I hear from you. It just gets worse, sadly.Moreover your insinuations are ridiculous - and just that - insinuations. No one is being "discouraged." I said quite clearly its better to watercool the CPU than the GPU if choosing between the two. Anyone can talk on and on about how many products there are to buy and what theoretical options are available - the crucial question is, does the performance increase justify the time and money? If you have all the time and money in the world, then it's a moot question, but for most reasonable people, it isn't.
DASHlT said:See this mobo...ALL multipliers are unlocked without a wire trick...and how do I know...look at my sig
13X200 baby WOOT
DASHlT