I'm slowly beginning to hate water cooling

Originally posted by Ogre Warrior
Thanks for the helpful :rolleyes: , if you read my post, you would have come to the conclusion that if I completely turned off my case fans my computer will overheat and leave a crater.


no it wouldnt. you need cool air in over the rad and something to push/pull the hot air OFF of the rad and thats it.

also w/c isnt about subzero temps, its about being to keep those completly perfectly fine temps while OCing heavily

**EDIT**I really don't think you want to get into the namecalling thingy, now would you? I altered the post...consider this one a freebie....MD
 
It looks like you have a 1/2" barb (ID of 3/8") on the inlet of your pump. Refer yourself to this thread (read the whole thing) to see what happens when you choke the inlet of the 1250.

You should try remounting your white water, and also should check the quality of its base.
 
Originally posted by Kirkov
you case l00ks dusty as hell man
i'd remove all your harware, install fan filters, clean the hardware with compressed air , make a fluid flush , examines your waterblock carefully (inside)

and that pump looks like it's been abused :eek:

I've got fan filters, and I removed all of that dust. The pump is perfectly fine, the camera just makes it look that way. The only thing I did to it was remove the grey cage that holds that sponge thing.

Originally posted by maxkilling
a simple flow rate test is to enter a bubble in the system.. if it moves like a ant............... thats bad.
if it moves like sonic & tales going through the pipes thats just wonderful :)

Whats the best way to do that? :)


Originally posted by rogue_jedi
with the radiator:
is the top fan a 120 and the bottom one an 80? try putting a 120 on each side. having different cfm fans on opposite sides of the radiator can't be good for your temps. i'd try putting another 120 in.

fix that kink any way you can, even if it involves *shudder* a 90 degree bend. that will help temps as well.

good luck with the setup.

Nope, they are both 120mm.
 
Since you seem to be ignoring my advice, here's some pictures to prove my point:

Eheim 1250 with 1/2" inlet barb (true ID of 3/8"):

eheim12.jpg


eheim12b.jpg


Eheim 1250 with 5/8" inlet barb (true ID of 1/2":

eheim58.jpg


eheim58b.jpg


http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=248390
 
look like Giblet has a good point there on the inlet barb. I would follow his advice, and reroute the hoses.

Just figure out the best way to route them so you get no kinks.

the suggestion of a 90 degree elbow fitting is good as well. Elbows hurt flow, but not as much as kinks.


good luck man.
 
Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
Since you seem to be ignoring my advice, here's some pictures to prove my point:

I am not ignoring anybody. Please give me a break.

I read the thread, and that inlet barb seem to make a giant difference according to the pictures. Thank you. Where can I get the barb? I went to the US Plastics link in the thread, but I didn't see one that was 5/8".

Here are closeup pictures so you can make sure that I do have a smaller barb. I used the inlet barb that came with the eheim.

five.jpg

This one is linked because of size.

I'm recalling when I attached all of the tubing.. I remember that I had to get warm water and really, really strain to fit the tube over the inlet. It was a horribly tight fit. However, the outlet barb seems smaller than it should be.

Maybe, to be safe, I should buy both barbs, the inlet and outlet, ones that we KNOW is the correct size. Where could I get these?

Once they arrive, I'll check the base of my waterblock and possibly reroute the hoses if I have enough spare tubing left.
 
You could try to get one more of those 120mm fans and sandwich your rad in them. At the least, it ensures you get close to optimal airflow for your fan type through your rad. The only cost is some room and a slight amount of noise. Just make sure to get an identical fan to yours.

All that sandwiching does is one fan pushes air in, and the other pulls it out...instead of one fan pulling or pushing by itself. This reduces airflow losses from restriction.
 
Looks like pretty work.

A) watercooling can be a lot of work for marginal gains... it's really only important for overclocking or working in environments with high ambient temps. PC's work fine at stock speeds with stock cooling. Maybe you shouldn't be watercooling.

B) Your radiator is at the top, you have no bleed valve above it, you probably have air in it. You guys with closed loops sure look tight and clean... and dysfunctional. I've got a butt-ugly hose sticking out of the top of mine. Make your skin crawl I imagine. But, to top it off I turn a valve and pour the water in. The radiator is full and I know it. Building a system that cannot be maintained may be prettier but it's much less likely to work well.

C) You appear to have waffled your radiator - push and pull - they better both be going in the same direction and two is overkill. As you've found, when it comes to noise more isn't always better.

D) A bunch of powerful fans can screw up intended airflow...you can create static 'eddies' by pulling hard in all directions. This has caused me problems when 1) added fans exceeded the power supply's pull - thus leading to static or reversed air in the PSU...bad, and 2) an eddie over the mobo will drive up temps on all your sensors and cards.
 
Watercooling for me is too much hassel and expense for very little return. I understand there are those who seek to O/C to the max and H2O cooling is pratical to them, it's just not practical for what I OC to. With aircooling you can find out what is the point of diminishing returns for your proc's OC, if you want to run it beyond that point then it's up to you to determine if the expense is practical or not. (not dissing on watercooling here, just pointing out the differences between ppl, there are no rights and wrongs, just different needs requires different solutions).
 
Nice thing with water is it's far easier to make an overkill system you can keep for many CPU generations, only having to swap out the CPU block at worst.
 
I went to watercooling for a quieter, more stable and higher overclock - got all three... can't complain. Works great and no leaks or worries. Wasn't hard to install. Looks cool.
 
Originally posted by NoEcho
Looks like pretty work.

A) watercooling can be a lot of work for marginal gains... it's really only important for overclocking or working in environments with high ambient temps. PC's work fine at stock speeds with stock cooling. Maybe you shouldn't be watercooling.

B) Your radiator is at the top, you have no bleed valve above it, you probably have air in it. You guys with closed loops sure look tight and clean... and dysfunctional. I've got a butt-ugly hose sticking out of the top of mine. Make your skin crawl I imagine. But, to top it off I turn a valve and pour the water in. The radiator is full and I know it. Building a system that cannot be maintained may be prettier but it's much less likely to work well.

C) You appear to have waffled your radiator - push and pull - they better both be going in the same direction and two is overkill. As you've found, when it comes to noise more isn't always better.

D) A bunch of powerful fans can screw up intended airflow...you can create static 'eddies' by pulling hard in all directions. This has caused me problems when 1) added fans exceeded the power supply's pull - thus leading to static or reversed air in the PSU...bad, and 2) an eddie over the mobo will drive up temps on all your sensors and cards.


a) true enough. im thinking about helping my friend watercool his carputer because when it gets hot in the car, it gets HOT

b) nope. rotated my computer many a time, even upsidedown. its quite bled. plus air bubbles eventually do dissolve back in

c) on a double, two in the same direction is best. on a radiator that only fits one fan on each side, push-pull is BEST

d) hes not causing that, one pushes through, one pulls through. i think thats what youre referring to
 
Originally posted by smahoney
I went to watercooling for a quieter, more stable and higher overclock - got all three... can't complain. Works great and no leaks or worries. Wasn't hard to install. Looks cool.


i built mine from parts, not to get the highest OC, but partly because i love this stuff, partly because i wanted cooler temps, partly for looks, partly to waste money :D i was nervous as hell because i usually manage to screw SOMETHING up when doing a big project but I managed to pull it off 100% safely and foolproof...ly. even after taking it apart, draining, and putting it back together, its all good. my next thing im tackling is getting a heatercore barbed, improving a spri@l block with lapping and giving the inside some interesting texture, and maybe looking into a new pump.
 
So can anyone link me a place to buy this new outlet and inlet for my pump, ones that will definitely fit and work with 1/2" ID tubing?
 
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