Illuminated Toggle Switches on a Light Bus

[Smelly Shizzle]

Hi Gawds!

I'm a noob that plans to make a light bus, and I'd really like to use 4 of these. I've read several tutorials on making baybusses and the only one that closely resembles what I want to do is this tutorial. The problem is, it doesn't accurately describe how I would connect it to the molex. so I'm pretty confused . Also, that tutorial is for non illuminated switches. I'm assuming that need to get power to that extra terminal for the light to work. Would I use the same wire that powers the "ON" switch?

 

[[nCn]Preacher]

Hi Gawds!

I'm a noob that plans to make a light bus, and I'd really like to use 4 of these. I've read several tutorials on making baybusses and the only one that closely resembles what I want to do is this tutorial. The problem is, it doesn't accurately describe how I would connect it to the molex. so I'm pretty confused . Also, that tutorial is for non illuminated switches. I'm assuming that need to get power to that extra terminal for the light to work. Would I use the same wire that powers the "ON" switch?

I have a diagram I drew for an old case mod that uses a similar switch. If noone has answered you by the time I get home from work, I'll find it and post it for you. Easier to understand than just describing it.

BTW:

You might save yourself some money and go to your local auto parts place. They sell those same switches for less and no shipping. Since the autmotive switches at 12v DC, you can drop them right in with no worries.

 

[[nCn]Preacher]

Here you go, not fancy, but I had done it to show someone else how I had wired something (don't remember what) This set up will light the toggles when they are in the "ON" position. I think you can split the positive (power) wire, connect it to the power and load posts and have the light on all the time.

 

[Smelly Shizzle]

Here you go, not fancy, but I had done it to show someone else how I had wired something (don't remember what) This set up will light the toggles when they are in the "ON" position. I think you can split the positive (power) wire, connect it to the power and load posts and have the light on all the time.

http://www.bastaards.org/Misc/Comp/Wiring.jpg

DUDE THANKS! I really appreciate it. Also, thanks for helping me find cheaper switches. i checked an auto parts store and they had the same ones for $2.50!

I'm pretty sure that I understand your schematic, I have a few questions though:

A. is the inside of your hobby box, and A1. and A2. are the wire clips on the outside of the box, correct?

For connecting the ground wires, would it be easier (less messy) if I just cram the switch ground and the CCFL ground into the same wire clip?

 

[[nCn]Preacher]

DUDE THANKS! I really appreciate it. Also, thanks for helping me find cheaper switches. i checked an auto parts store and they had the same ones for $2.50!

I'm pretty sure that I understand your schematic, I have a few questions though:

A. is the inside of your hobby box, and A1. and A2. are the wire clips on the outside of the box, correct?

For connecting the ground wires, would it be easier (less messy) if I just cram the switch ground and the CCFL ground into the same wire clip?

Glad I could help you save money!

You are correct that A is the inside and A1 & A2 are the outside connections.

For the outside, I started using the regular bare-wire type clips like you would find on old stereos, but I ended up using RCA connectors as I thought it would look "cool". More work, but it was different than anything anyone else was doing then so it a success.

As for your other question, there shouldn't be any issues with just running the ground lead from the neon and from the switch to the power bus. As long as you are creating a circuit, it should work just fine.