I am PWND by Enermax

Justintoxicated

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
Messages
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Well my liberty 620 exploded last week with a loud BANG while my girl was playing WOW.

So I I got a replacement under warranty but it is a newer different version.

This version does not work correctly with my MB: DFI Lanparty Expert.

It has a SERIOUS switch bounce issue.

I have to Hold the power button in and turn the PSU on and off for as long as it takes untill eventualy the POS will fire up.

So Now I'm sure I will get to hear DFI blame enermax and enermax blame DFI. Honestly I blame mostly the PSU as my old one never had this much of a switch bounce issue. (The old PSU did have a switch bounce issue where if you Hard Powered the computer off, it would not turn back on untill you turned the PSU off for 30 seconds and then backon)...It was no where near as bad as the current problem. In fact It was not even an issue unless I locked up or bluescreened...

So what Do I do now? Cut my losses and Buy a differnt brand PSU? I have no money and I'm looking for a new job...

Before DFI street was down I beleive there was a mod I could do to the MB or PSU to solve the issue. It involved a .22uf cap I belive. But now DFI Street is gone and I don't know where to go to find the information. I just need to know what kind of cap to buy and I can solder it into the switch wires on the computer case itself
 
dfi-street renamed to diy-street.com after what happened.

Does it work in another pc? If so, it's an incompatability. I'd sell it, and pick up something like a corsair hx 520.
 
I was the DFI-Street PSU mod.

Put a 22-microfarad or larger (within reason) cap across the "power-on" button,
this should solve the problem, but no guarantees as I have not test this new model.

Good Luck,
Dave ;)
 
Ddavid thanks!

Never did learn what happened to DFI street, I stepped away once my rig was up and working.

What type of cap did it need to be?

Enermax is going to send me another unit. They told me that nothing has changed ont he design other than the connectors and that there will be another new model released next month.

I know the .22uf cap would have fixed my previous switch bounce issue, but I'm not sure it will solve this new one. Enermax is going to Send me another unit but they have to put a charge on my credit card if I want to keep this one in the meantime. I think it's worth a shot since the origional PSU from them worked fine. They told me they had a bad batch of PSU units that were made last year but assured me that the new ones should not have any problems exploding.
 
i just ordered a Liberty 400 from my comp its a DFI Xpress 3200 board ...i hope i have better luck than you did.
 
Do not mod the PSU in any way, just put the cap across the the "power on" button. ;)

DFI-Street has evolved to become DIY Street (Do It Yourself), there are problems, but I hope Travis & company succeed.
 
Do not mod the PSU in any way, just put the cap across the the "power on" button. ;)

DFI-Street has evolved to become DIY Street (Do It Yourself), there are problems, but I hope Travis & company succeed.


Thats the plan, or at least across the wires...But I don't know where to buy a .22uf cap from...
 
Radio Shack, Allied, make sure it is at least 10V & be sure to observe poliarity if electrolitic or polarized. ;)

no Allieds here and Radioshack does not carry them. I went to like 5 of them a year ago and they don't have anyting that small... They have 22uf but not .22 ...
 
There's always the possibility that when your old PSU exploded, it damaged you MB right along with it.
 
no Allieds here and Radioshack does not carry them. I went to like 5 of them a year ago and they don't have anyting that small... They have 22uf but not .22 ...
I was the DFI-Street PSU mod.

Put a 22-microfarad or larger (within reason) cap across the "power-on" button,
this should solve the problem, but no guarantees as I have not test this new model
22uf is what you want! :D
 
Ok so I finaly tried some differnet caps. The first one I tried was .22 uf. It made the PC start up with less button pushes but did not solve the problem. However is I held the power button, it would now turn on.

So I tried a 47uf I believe or maybe it was 32, still no dice, 100uf no dice, so I tried a 2200uf and still the same thing (have to hold down power button).

So I just left the last one in there as it seemed to work the best...For some reason the one marked 2200 was no larger than the one marked .22 in fact they looked identical other than one was red and one was blue, there are some differnet kind of caps thats for sure... All these Caps are the kind that have no polarity no designated + or -. In fact I never know caps like these existed before. I got them from a friend in Europe...

So the cap kind of fixed the issue but I think I will just return the PSU to Enermax...
It kind of starts up once or twice (noise and fans start to spin then stop) before it actualy turns on even when holding the button.
 
all that bullshit just to get the pc to startup, wtf return that piece of shit to enermax, me particulary dont like enrmax psu's either, one of their brand new noisetakers 600w killed a £2700 rig of mine in 2005 but i got everything replaced and the replacement psu seems to be more stable on the rails but I have an earlier version of that same psu in another rig and the rails are everywhere, 12v = 11.2/3v and all the other rails are in roughly the same state compared to the newer revision which is in this rig which is 12.03v rock solid.

After that fiasco I will never buy another enermax psu, although i continue to use the ones i have, I will never buy another.
 
After that fiasco I will never buy another enermax psu, although i continue to use the ones i have, I will never buy another.

Your motherboards are Asus, not DFI. I doubt you would ever have the problems.
 
Your motherboards are Asus, not DFI. I doubt you would ever have the problems.

Agreed, I've rarely had an incompatibility with an Asus board, but the LanParty boards are notoriously picky about RAM, PSUs, etc.
 
Well I'm not sure if I should return it or not, pressing the button and holding for a second isnt that bad, at least no1 I don't want turning my PC on will turn it on! Although, it's always on anways hmmm...Enermax said they can charge my card and send a replacement PSU then refund the money when I send this one back. But I have alot of money on my CC right now too much Non-PC mods haha.

Not sure I should be using this cap but it is still puny I don't see how it could possibly really be 2200uf and be so small Maybe it some other rating I think they are danish or something lol it does not actualy say uf or microfarad on it..

Off Topic:
I pulled the positive lead for all the blue LED's on my Sunbeam rheobuss out of the sockets while I was in there as well. Those LED's are damn annoying to me for the last 2 years, they still turn red when I hit 7V, maybe I will resistor them and plug them back in.

Added a fan for my HD's as well they really didn't have any ventilation after the radiator got plugged with dust (still is as I have n=been too lazy to clean out the pC since I built it) Somehow the CPU still says cool!. I put the fan sucking air out of the bay since the radiator is in front of them.
 
Agreed, I've rarely had an incompatibility with an Asus board, but the LanParty boards are notoriously picky about RAM, PSUs, etc.

Same here. I traded my LanParty for the Asus in my sig. The LP caused me to buy memory 3x. I LOVED my 4x512 Corsair TCCD's- shouldn't have sold them. I needed 2 different kinds of optical drives, even.

Also, on topic, my LP board didn't work correctly when I got my new Liberty 600 from RMA either.
 
Problem is I'm runnign OCed memory that will probably not work in an Asus Board too well. G-skillz I don't remember exactly which one but it's pretty comparable to DDR2. I should have stuck with my OCZ PC3200 C2...Although it turns out the frist 2 sticks were actualy bad!...

Other than the PS issue I have no had any problems with my DFI, I do not think the Asus would allow for my OC...
 
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