hyper 212 evo temps

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dinlee23

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i have the evo on a push pull config

i have 3x120mm fan intakes and 1x120mm and 1x200mm fan exhaust

are these temps normal for the evo? or should i re seat it?

edit - forgot to mention its a 2500k running at 4.7ghz running prime 95 blend test
 
for all of those guys that say that you only need 1 little dab of TIM you are all wrong!

i applied 5 straight lines of AS5 on my heatsink base and my temps dropped 20 degrees celsius!!! this myth is busted...

this is also without the second fan on my heatsink...

whoever made up this tiny dab of TIM bullshit should be hanged...
 
dinlee23 said:
for all of those guys that say that you only need 1 little dab of TIM you are all wrong!

i applied 5 straight lines of AS5 on my heatsink base and my temps dropped 20 degrees celsius!!! this myth is busted...

this is also without the second fan on my heatsink...

whoever made up this tiny dab of TIM bullshit should be hanged...
Click to expand...

There is some truth to this. When I first got my FX-8150, I figured I'd just use the one pea sized drop of paste cause that's what all the cool kids were doing. My temps were not that impressive. I took off the cooler and reapplied it like I always do which is with a credit card and spreading the paste over the entire surface of the proc in as thin a layer as possible. Bammo! My temps dropped considerably.

If everybody and their brother swear by the "pea size" method then there has to be something to it. Since me and the OP had the same results with the Hyper then maybe its just something with the Hyper's design that makes it work better with a little more TIM.
 
im pretty sure theres nothing wrong with the hyper since all heatsink surfaces are all pretty much alike geometry wise. Im all for the majority consensus but when stuff like this happens it diminishes my trust in commonly held beliefs
 
dinlee23 said:
im pretty sure theres nothing wrong with the hyper since all heatsink surfaces are all pretty much alike geometry wise. Im all for the majority consensus but when stuff like this happens it diminishes my trust in commonly held beliefs
Click to expand...

Sorry, but you are in the wrong here. You should have done further research-it is common knowledge the dot method is hardly ideal with heatsinks that have direct heatpipe surfaces (such as your 212evo). The dot method only works on flat, uniform bases. On a direct heatpipe surface, the paste is unable to spread due to the tiny crevices between the heatpipes. The 3/5 line method is the appropriate one to use for such a heatsink.

Next time do your homework!
 
MacLeod said:
There is some truth to this. When I first got my FX-8150, I figured I'd just use the one pea sized drop of paste cause that's what all the cool kids were doing. My temps were not that impressive. I took off the cooler and reapplied it like I always do which is with a credit card and spreading the paste over the entire surface of the proc in as thin a layer as possible. Bammo! My temps dropped considerably.

If everybody and their brother swear by the "pea size" method then there has to be something to it. Since me and the OP had the same results with the Hyper then maybe its just something with the Hyper's design that makes it work better with a little more TIM.
Click to expand...

dinlee23 said:
for all of those guys that say that you only need 1 little dab of TIM you are all wrong!

i applied 5 straight lines of AS5 on my heatsink base and my temps dropped 20 degrees celsius!!! this myth is busted...

this is also without the second fan on my heatsink...

whoever made up this tiny dab of TIM bullshit should be hanged...
Click to expand...

m3ta1head said:
Sorry, but you are in the wrong here. You should have done further research-it is common knowledge the dot method is hardly ideal with heatsinks that have direct heatpipe surfaces (such as your 212evo). The dot method only works on flat, uniform bases. On a direct heatpipe surface, the paste is unable to spread due to the tiny crevices between the heatpipes. The 3/5 line method is the appropriate one to use for such a heatsink.

Next time do your homework!
Click to expand...

With heat pipes a small dot is best http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-2/1392

With flat base a tiny dot is best http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303
 
XacTactX said:
With heat pipes http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-2/1392

With flat base http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303
Click to expand...

Here's another comparison with nice pics of spread.

flat base: http://benchmark reviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=4

HDT: http://benchmark reviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

edit: links blocked for some reason, remove the space between benchmark and reviews
 
dinlee23 said:
for all of those guys that say that you only need 1 little dab of TIM you are all wrong!

i applied 5 straight lines of AS5 on my heatsink base and my temps dropped 20 degrees celsius!!! this myth is busted...

this is also without the second fan on my heatsink...

whoever made up this tiny dab of TIM bullshit should be hanged...
Click to expand...

Your HS wasnt on right if those were your temps.
The dot method works just fine.

i also believe the evo doesnt have the really bad lines like alot do.(on the bottom)
 
im sorry but i find your claims to be false... for the past 2 days i have reseated my heatsink more than a dozen times since i was trouble shooting my z68 pro3 mobo that is now confirmed dead... and just out of curiosity, because of one thread i read, i applied more TIM than i normally would and lo and behold that guy in the thread that i dont recall was right...

again im sorry but a 20c decrease in temps from just using a different method of applying thermal paste confirms the fact that there's something wrong with the current held belief that you should only apply a small dot of TIM on your cpu...
 
XacTactX said:
With heat pipes a small dot is best http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-2/1392

With flat base a tiny dot is best http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303
Click to expand...

i doubt they were overclocking that cpu to its limits...

edit - look at the end of your thread...



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this proves it right here that tiny amounts of TIM = less heat dissipated by the heatsink...

btw that 1 degree C difference idle temp doesnt mean anything
 
dinlee23 said:
im sorry but i find your claims to be false... for the past 2 days i have reseated my heatsink more than a dozen times since i was trouble shooting my z68 pro3 mobo that is now confirmed dead... and just out of curiosity, because of one thread i read, i applied more TIM than i normally would and lo and behold that guy in the thread that i dont recall was right...

again im sorry but a 20c decrease in temps from just using a different method of applying thermal paste confirms the fact that there's something wrong with the current held belief that you should only apply a small dot of TIM on your cpu...
Click to expand...

Then I guess most of us are wrong and you are right. :D

I have used the dot method and has always worked just fine. Weird!
 
Judging from that graph above, it looks like they all pretty much work the same. Pea sized, strips or spread, they're all about the same (except for the tiny dot).
 
MacLeod said:
Judging from that graph above, it looks like they all pretty much work the same. Pea sized, strips or spread, they're all about the same (except for the tiny dot).
Click to expand...

Yeah, small dot is what I use.

But whatever works for the person, more power to em.
 
I'm now a little curious.
I'm using that same HS/Fan and running at 4.5ghz with similar temps via the "dot" of thermal paste.
 
Domingo said:
I'm now a little curious.
I'm using that same HS/Fan and running at 4.5ghz with similar temps via the "dot" of thermal paste.
Click to expand...

The bottom of the HS's are not always flat, so good to put some TIM on, seat it and make sure its in good contact. Take it off and make sure it has good spread.
 
I think tomorrow I'm going to take a look at both my thermal paste and my voltage. I've got it set at 1.24 right now (at 4.5 ghz) based on some early OC'ing posts, but I'm thinking that based on some more recent ones I can probably lower that a bit.
 
Unless your folding or using all cores 100% most of the time, the CM 212+ is good, otherwise the NH-D14 would be best.
My max running prime is 72, otherwise just gaming is nice and cool.
 
...and voltage seemed to be the culprit. Knocked it down to 1.2 and Now Intel Burn Test (which gives me 5-10 degrees more heat than Prime 95) stays in the 70's at 4.5 ghz.
 
Lets just think about what thermal paste/grease is supposed to do, fill the tiny imperfections and gaps between two surfaces meant to join together as clean as possible having as close as 100% contact. The ideal situation would be to have the two surfaces become one, since that is not possible TIM is used. All you need to use is enough to fill the microscopic air-gaps present due to the imperfectly flat and smooth surfaces of the components. The less the better however it needs to be enough to completely fill those gaps. TIM is not a better conductor of heat then the surface itself, the companies who make it try to find the best solution to match the abilities the surface its being applied to and fill those gaps.

I personally cover the entire surface of both components and scrape it down to almost a translucent film then install them. Less is better, using anymore then what is needed to fill all the gaps is pointless and you are just working against the goal. It could also create gaps by adding pressure in one area or another where the TIM is thicker or thinner etc...
 
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phOkaz said:
Lets just think about what thermal paste/grease is supposed to do, fill the tiny imperfections and gaps between two surfaces meant to join together as clean as possible having as close as 100% contact. The ideal situation would be to have the two surfaces become one, since that is not possible TIM is used. All you need to use is enough to fill the microscopic air-gaps present due to the imperfectly flat and smooth surfaces of the components. The less the better however it needs to be enough to completely fill those gaps. TIM is not a better conductor of heat then the surface itself, the companies who make it try to find the best solution to match the abilities the surface its being applied to and fill those gaps.

I personally cover the entire surface of both components and scrape it down to almost a translucent film then install them. Less is better, using anymore then what is needed to fill all the gaps is pointless and you are just working against the goal. It could also create gaps by adding pressure in one area or another where the TIM is thicker or thinner etc...
Click to expand...

Thats just a given, how its applied is what we are talking about.

People do it differently, and as long as the temps are good, it really makes no difference.
 
The only reason I can see how it is being applied making a difference is this. I have had tubes of TIM sitting for periods of time and noticed that the mixture is not always even in terms of the components in the mixture being evenly distributed. I have had the same tube come out runny one time and thicker another or just all together a solid mixture with a wet coating. Since the first time I had seen this, I have been putting it on a piece of plastic and mixing it with a pin until I am satisfied with its consistency then applying as I mentioned above. This could be the case of why dots, stripes or spreads might see different results. If you have a tube of grease that has settled and separated then you just slap it on and spread it, you might have an uneven coat of the mixtures components. Applying small dots of it and spreading would mix the compound at the same time as coating.

If the mixture is evenly distributed before you apply, it shouldn't matter how you put it on as long as the end result is the same.
 
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phOkaz said:
Lets just think about what thermal paste/grease is supposed to do, fill the tiny imperfections and gaps between two surfaces meant to join together as clean as possible having as close as 100% contact. The ideal situation would be to have the two surfaces become one, since that is not possible TIM is used. All you need to use is enough to fill the microscopic air-gaps present due to the imperfectly flat and smooth surfaces of the components. The less the better however it needs to be enough to completely fill those gaps. TIM is not a better conductor of heat then the surface itself, the companies who make it try to find the best solution to match the abilities the surface its being applied to and fill those gaps.

I personally cover the entire surface of both components and scrape it down to almost a translucent film then install them. Less is better, using anymore then what is needed to fill all the gaps is pointless and you are just working against the goal. It could also create gaps by adding pressure in one area or another where the TIM is thicker or thinner etc...
Click to expand...

ive done that method where you spread the TIM all over the cpu lid and to be honest when i took off the heatsink there was barely any contact made between the cpu and the heatsink. i do agree with hagrid that this is a case by case situation since all heatsink surfaces vary from one another. so whatever works for you may not be the case for other people
 
dinlee23 said:
ive done that method where you spread the TIM all over the cpu lid and to be honest when i took off the heatsink there was barely any contact made between the cpu and the heatsink. i do agree with hagrid that this is a case by case situation since all heatsink surfaces vary from one another. so whatever works for you may not be the case for other people
Click to expand...

" cover the entire surface of both components and scrape it down to almost a translucent film then install them "

Not just the CPU lid
 
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