HP ZR24w

Try different calibration software (for example basiccolor: http://www.basiccolor.de/english/Datenblaetter_E/squid_E/squid_E.htm). It has been mentioned before (>20 pages back) that certain calibration suites report inaccurate black levels. I think it was spyder2 or 3 software, i'm not sure which version it was but it was definitely software delivered with a spyder calibration package.
Yes but it should atleast be able to notice a decrease in black luminance, because when i checked the black luminance on my W2207h it reported 0,2 cd/m2 something, while it reports 0,32 cd/m2 with my ZR24w, actually 0,33 with contrast set to 100, so a very slight increase. Maybe it reports inaccurate values but atleast it should be able to detect a difference..

There is actually no reason to expect that it would. Pure black is a weakness of all LCDs. It would be nuts to have default settings (80 contrast) that didn't already have black that was as black as possible.

If you read the TFTCentral review that reported an improvement at 100%, ignore it, that was more in line with measurement variation, than an actual change.
Hm ok, then there is no reason to use 100 contrast i guess..
 
How is the uniformity of the screen? Are there any brighter or darker areas of the screen when viewing solid color backgrounds? Can someone post/send me a photo of the screen with white and gray solid color background?
 
Out of all three of mine, the picture is very uniform, all things considered. The only flaw I noticed is one has a little extra glowy spot near the top about half-way to the right that is only visible on black backgrounds.
 
There is actually no reason to expect that it would. Pure black is a weakness of all LCDs. It would be nuts to have default settings (80 contrast) that didn't already have black that was as black as possible.

If you read the TFTCentral review that reported an improvement at 100%, ignore it, that was more in line with measurement variation, than an actual change.


Dude, measurement varion? Varying from 0.28 to 0.18? That would be insane variation! Obviously contrast control does something that causes that huge drop in black depth. My guess is that there is something wierd going in his Spyder software. I also suggest trying different calibration program like Basiccolor.
 
Dude, measurement varion? Varying from 0.28 to 0.18? That would be insane variation! Obviously contrast control does something that causes that huge drop in black depth. My guess is that there is something wierd going in his Spyder software. I also suggest trying different calibration program like Basiccolor.

You missed a vital point.

Brightness was at 25 when they measured .28 black, they turned down the brightness to zero when they turned up the contrast. It was the zero brightness that changed the black level to .18, as expected.
 
You missed a vital point.

Brightness was at 25 when they measured .28 black, they turned down the brightness to zero when they turned up the contrast. It was the zero brightness that changed the black level to .18, as expected.


Now that I checked it out again, you are correct. In contrast stability test they got 0.19cdm2 blacks with 132cdm2 luminance. That definetly fits in the variation.

But on first calibration they got 0.28 on blacks with luminance 119. This indicates that they had to adjust backlights quite a bit so that they had to compensate with increased brightness, butchering the black depth in the process.

This is where Contrast 100 into the play. It makes screen alot brighter according to them. They had to do extreme alterations to RGB sliders so that they got correct color temperature and brightness, all this with leaving brightness slider to 0. This method can burn out whites which TFT central also warned, but I guess calibration can take care of that. Banding might still be issue though?

So this contrast trick is only if you have hardware calibrator, but if not or if you do not care about color temperature, its best is to leave contrast to 80 and brightness to 0, I believe?
 
Does the problem with the high brightness exist to an equal extent on all ZR24W displays or does it vary?
 
Does the problem with the high brightness exist to an equal extent on all ZR24W displays or does it vary?

In TFTCentrals review they showed the brightness was about 132 cd/m2 at ZERO.

This is faily average for LCDs. It should only be a problem for those very sensitive to brightness.
 
Here's a new option just to drive us all completely insane (my friends say I'm already there).

Announced today Dell U2311H ... 23" IPS monitor with DisplayPort, DVI and VGA, 1920x1080, pivot/tilt/swivel/height adjustable, 8ms GTG ... and rather inexpensive at $299 list. The specs say 100% sRGB coverage and I think it is not wide gamut.

Here we go again ... I don't think there's any reason to believe the panel quality will be any better than the EA231WMi but who knows.
 
Here's a new option just to drive us all completely insane (my friends say I'm already there).

Announced today Dell U2311H ... 23" IPS monitor with DisplayPort, DVI and VGA, 1920x1080

Not really... 24" 1920x1200 is one of the big reasons why I'm interested in zr24w, and I suspect a lot of other people too
 
What is the general consensus for gaming between the hp and nec monitors? If it helps I am coming from a dell 2001fp. I am leaning towards the hp due to the 1920 X 1200 resolution.
 
thats exactly what i came from, and so far no complaints on the hp. if you need/want any comparison shots from the 2001fp and 24w, let me know. im using the 2001 as a secondary right now. looks like absolute shit by comparison, by the way.
 
How is the uniformity of the screen? Are there any brighter or darker areas of the screen when viewing solid color backgrounds? Can someone post/send me a photo of the screen with white and gray solid color background?
Mine is noticeable darker on the left side/left down corner, my previous ZR24w had red tint on down left corner.
But i can't be bothered to exchange the monitor again, it took 3 weeks to get a replacement.
I wont buy a new monitor in 20 years or so, not until mankind have the technology to produce monitors which shows the colors which it's INTENDED to show.

EDIT: to be more precise, on down left corner there is a pretty big area with 95 cd/m2 luminance, 121 cd/m2 in the centre. and on top there is some areas with around 130 cd/m2.
 
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I'm thinking if i should replace my monitor because it's darker down, and especially on down left corner.
it's 95 cd/m2 on down left corner and 120 cd/m2 in the centre.

http://pici.se/593352/
http://pici.se/594227/

What do you guys think..? About the google pic: it's a bit more apparent irl than what it is in the picture.
Maybe i would get a bad monitor again, and again, and again..
It took about 3 weeks to get an exchange monitor the last time.
 
95cdm2 on corner versus 120cdm2 on center? I think that is quite severe backlight uniformity issue. I would get it replaced.
 
95cdm2 on corner versus 120cdm2 on center? I think that is quite severe backlight uniformity issue. I would get it replaced.
Ok.. damnit.. but you haven't measured your monitors uniformity? I think the difference in luminance on the screen is bigger than you would think..
Hmm i'll have to think about this.. i just wonder when i will get a "perfect" one. I bet the exchange monitor will have something else, like tint, backlightbleed, or the same problem as with this one.
Does anyone else have the Spyder3Elite 4.0 software? Can you measure your monitors uniformity with the 'Screen Uniformity' function? I would really appreciate it..
 
Ok.. damnit.. but you haven't measured your monitors uniformity? I think the difference in luminance on the screen is bigger than you would think..
Hmm i'll have to think about this.. i just wonder when i will get a "perfect" one. I bet the exchange monitor will have something else, like tint, backlightbleed, or the same problem as with this one.
Does anyone else have the Spyder3Elite 4.0 software? Can you measure your monitors uniformity with the 'Screen Uniformity' function? I would really appreciate it..

You won't. Perfect doesn't exist in this price range. Or, to put it differently: For the price you have to pay this is considered to be perfect.

The big question is: Did it bother you in any way before you saw the actual numbers?
If it did, replace it & you'll either get a slightly better panel, a slightly worse panel or you'll end up having to deal with dead/stuck pixels.

I havn't checked mine but looking at the tftcentral review your panel uniformity looks somewhat comparable. They even mention that in this price range you don't have to get your hopes up to get any better.
 
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I had a previous post asking if people were hearing any hum from their zr24w's, but there has been little comment. For those that have purchased 2 or 3, how about commenting if you have experienced any hum, if one makes noise and another doesn't, etc.
Thanks
homer_at
 
I had a previous post asking if people were hearing any hum from their zr24w's, but there has been little comment. For those that have purchased 2 or 3, how about commenting if you have experienced any hum, if one makes noise and another doesn't, etc.
Thanks
homer_at
Well you only had to read through the last 70 pages or so. :p ;)

Anyway, there have been almost no comments about these monitors being noisy. Most people that have commented on this have said they are very quiet.
 
Ok.. damnit.. but you haven't measured your monitors uniformity? I think the difference in luminance on the screen is bigger than you would think..
Hmm i'll have to think about this.. i just wonder when i will get a "perfect" one. I bet the exchange monitor will have something else, like tint, backlightbleed, or the same problem as with this one.
Does anyone else have the Spyder3Elite 4.0 software? Can you measure your monitors uniformity with the 'Screen Uniformity' function? I would really appreciate it..


Actually I havent, but I have judged with my eyes and my old HP was fine and my current Samsung TV is fine. I am judging just from numbers and how big is the brightness difference between 120cdm2 and 90cdm2 and its much darker. If the difference in uniformity is equally noticeable to naked eye, I would change it.
 
The big question is: Did it bother you in any way before you saw the actual numbers?
If it did, replace it & you'll either get a slightly better panel, a slightly worse panel or you'll end up having to deal with dead/stuck pixels.

I havn't checked mine but looking at the tftcentral review your panel uniformity looks somewhat comparable. They even mention that in this price range you don't have to get your hopes up to get any better.
I did notice it before i saw the numbers, but it doesn't bother me THAT much really.. but it's noticeable on white screens like on google for example..
Ah i saw the tftcentral review now, their monitor had exactly the same problem which my monitor have.
There seems to be something wrong with the left down corner.. my previous monitor had tint there, my current one is darker there, and on the tftcentral review they had the same problem.

Hmm.. damn panel lottery..
 
I did notice it before i saw the numbers, but it doesn't bother me THAT much really.. but it's noticeable on white screens like on google for example..
Ah i saw the tftcentral review now, their monitor had exactly the same problem which my monitor have.
There seems to be something wrong with the left down corner.. my previous monitor had tint there, my current one is darker there, and on the tftcentral review they had the same problem.

Hmm.. damn panel lottery..

I don't have my colorimeter right now but judging from a white screen i also have a slight deviation towards the bottom of the screen on both of my panels. Though definitely not to the extent i would even consider replacing them. (first time i really notice it) I will post updated results next week when i have my colorimeter back.
 
I will post updated results next week when i have my colorimeter back.
Ok sounds good.

Hm it feels like it have got worse now =/ it's really easily noticeable now.
Think i'm gonna send back this monitor.

Why do i always have so bad luck in everything, i ordered a fan for some days ago (Antec SpotCool), and guess what, it makes some weird noises sometimes, so i have to send back the fan too..
Why can't they just quality test their products before they ship the product from the factory
 
Liked the ZR24W that I got to replace my wife's dying CRT, and got one for myself.

For both units - no bad pixels, no noise, good uniformity, no tint. Love 1200 vertical. Both of us are extremely happy with the ZR24W - an excellent unit, and perfect for anyone concerned with color accuracy but on a limited budget that won't cover more than $500.

My wife is using DVI, but I'm constrained to VGA because I have 2 systems on a KVM switch, and one is an antique with first generation AGP (can't even be replaced!) and has only VGA. I can't tell the difference between my unit on VGA and my wife's on DVI.

The KVM switches instantly, as I know from my previous CRT, but the ZR24W takes 2 to 3 seconds with the screen black to do whatever it is doing when I switch systems, so if you have a VGA KVM switch, be aware that after switching, it takes about 3 seconds of black screen before you see the other system. I had not expected this, but find that I've easily adjusted to it. Had I read about this behavior first, I would not have bought this monitor, as that sounds like way too long to be tolerable to me, but in practice, this is simply not a problem for me.

Got the first unit from HP, 2nd unit from B&H Photo in NYC. Both arrived in excellent shape in spite of UPS. B&H, for those not familiar with the camera market, has a great reputation for honesty and fair deals on expensive equipment.

A great unit for most people, at a decent price.
 
...but I'm constrained to VGA because I have 2 systems on a KVM switch, and one is an antique with first generation AGP (can't even be replaced!) and has only VGA.

The KVM switches instantly, as I know from my previous CRT, but the ZR24W takes 2 to 3 seconds with the screen black to do whatever it is doing when I switch systems, so if you have a VGA KVM switch, be aware that after switching, it takes about 3 seconds of black screen before you see the other system.
This delay happens even from one input to another. I've seen it on the 2475 too, and on most HDTVs today...
As far as your setup, since you have two systems on the Z24W, you could hook up one on the DVI and the other on the VGA input, and use freeware Synergy or Input Director for Keyboard & mouse control, eliminating the need and loss of quality through the KVM.
 
Just got my first HP ZR24w. So far I really like it. It's black levels are better than my Samsung 245BW and the colors are great. Tested it with Battlefield BC2 and it performed superbly with no ghosting or perceivable input lag and tested video by watching Astroboy at it looked excellent. I have two more on the way for eyefinity. So far based on this first one I am very pleased. No dead pixels and no backlight bleeding. Used the following settings, brightness 15, contrast 80, R 245, G 222, B 239.
 
Well I went with Overstock's 15% off, which I think is the best deal at the moment, especially for Californians. Thanks a lot, Radagast!
 
As far as your setup, since you have two systems on the Z24W, you could hook up one on the DVI and the other on the VGA input, and use freeware Synergy or Input Director for Keyboard & mouse control, eliminating the need and loss of quality through the KVM.
There is no visible loss of video quality using the KVM, or because I'm using VGA instead of DVI. Given the delay, I may switch to Remote Desktop to avoid it, but I'll keep the KVM in place for BIOS access.
 
There is no visible loss of video quality using the KVM, or because I'm using VGA instead of DVI..
..theoretically, DVI should have no quality loss since it is digital, (which means either the signal goes through and is stellar or it does not and there is no image) whereas VGA as analogue should have some loss. On the CRT era, high end displays provided 5 BNC connectors for superior color reproduction rather than the 15 pin VGA one used in most models.
 
Ordered this monitor today from HP UK direct for £313.73 (Incl. VAT) with free shipping ...

bring it on big :D
 
I may have missed it, but did anyone put up photos of their monitor showing various gradients after calibrating at 100% contrast, like TFTCentral? I'd like to see if dropping the RGB sliders that much would actually cause banding on this monitor. Thanks!
 
..theoretically, DVI should have no quality loss since it is digital, (which means either the signal goes through and is stellar or it does not and there is no image) whereas VGA as analogue should have some loss. On the CRT era, high end displays provided 5 BNC connectors for superior color reproduction rather than the 15 pin VGA one used in most models.
Indeed. Which makes the fact that there is no visible quality loss going through VGA on this monitor quite remarkable.
 
I replaced mine because it had a stuck pixel. Got the replacement today and it's also got a stuck pixel ><

Cept it's stuck at a muddy green rather than a bright green, so its much less noticable.

Also the new screen doesn't seem to have such a large reddish gradient at the bottom, so I think I shall keep this

Both of them seem to have lower left uniformity issues
 
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