HP ZR24w

serendip1ty said:
My product number is VM633A, where is the second part of that code located on the back? Didn't find anything that resembles it.


Is it normal that the color temperature is THAT much higher with my settings? It seems like a pretty big difference... did you use the settings posted in #1354?
Click to expand...

Yes, I used the settings from #1354 and I also find it strange it was that big of a difference.

I have now also found out my monitor have som big tint issues, left side of the screen was very pink, I'm not sure if this could have anything to do with my strange results.

Well its already in the box again and is ready to be sent back so don't really wanna unpack and check the product number on it, the one posted earlier was taken from the sellers site.

Also about the black level, this was the best I could do. I was able to get the luminance down to about 120 cd/m2 by reducing the RGB settings, but the black level stayed at 0.3 cd/m3.
 
I'm happy with my settings if any one wants to try them:

Brightness - 17
Contrast - 93
R - 159
G - 156
B - 164
 
siliconnerd said:
For anyone running Eyefinity with these monitors, are you having any issues with the display port connection? It seems every time I turn off the monitor connected to the display port (with the front panel button, not the rear button), my 5870 seems to detect the display as being disconnected and disables Eyefinity.
Click to expand...
This is indeed the case. Have the same issue on my Dell P2210H that ATI provided for testing the Eyefinity6. Seems that DP is a "two way" connection and that the system detects when the connection is lost.

The only monitor I've seen that didn't have this issue was my original Dell U2410. I think the reason it didn't have the issue was it's PIP function. Due to having PIP, I believe it kept all the signals "active" all the time.

-Ibrin
WSGF Founder/Owner
 
I'm having a tough time deciding between a TN-based Asus VW266H (currently on sale at ewiz.com for $255) and the ZR24w (I'd buy from a retailer outside WA state to avoid sales tax). The ZR24W at $400 is a bit on the high side for what I'd like to pay but it seems like a good deal for a ~24" IPS panel.

At home, I have a Dell 2001FP and a S-IPS 2007FP. I'm probably ok w/TN as a quick check of my LCDs at work I found that 2 are TN, 2 are 2 S-IPS and 2 are P-MVA. I REALLY want a 1920x1200 display while I they're still available and don't want 1920x1080 displays.

The U2410 is outside what I'd like to spend, even when on sale for $500 (Dell would charge tax even though I'm in WA state). It just feels wrong to pay $500 for a ~24" LCD when all these cheap TN 1920x1080 guys are in the ~$200 range. It seems all the 1920x1200 24"+ LCDs at newegg for <$330 are all TN.

I gather that there are scaling issues on the ZR24w. I don't ever plan to hook it up to game consoles or BD players. It'll be hooked up to a PC or possibly a Mac later, so I don't think the scaling issues matter. Some guy at http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?p=29615912#post29615912 was complaining that the min height is "way too high":. That doesn't sound legit/like a prob for me based on the measurements people are stating. I've adjusted my 2007FP so that it's >7" from desktop to bottom of LCD right now and it's a perfect height for me.

Anything else I should consider that's in the ZR24w's price range or any other major flaws? It's too bad the display's so new so there aren't any "professional"/full reviews of it.
 
rogue_jedi said:
The second picture is with overdrive on. Overdrive just tries to overshoot the correct pixel color in an effort to make the (analog) LCD panel change colors faster. If the specific overdrive implementation doesn't switch back to the proper voltage fast enough, you get negative ghosting. This is not uncommon with overdrive implementations. The first picture does not appear to display any negative ghosting.
Click to expand...

I know. When overdrive "over does" it, you get negative ghosting and other artifacts like corona effect. Most of the monitors nowadays have overdrive to speed up the response time, and they rarely show negative ghosting and other artifacts. When overdrive is done properly it makes your screen faster. However LP2475W, which I own, shows negative ghosting when its competitor roughly-equally-fast U2410 does not, meaning LP2475Ws overdrive is just not properly done. And if ZR24W shows similar artifacts, it is badly adjusted too. Overdrive can be done without artifacts.
 
rberger said:
Serendip1ty ... thanks so much for posting calibration results in post #1354.

Your results are very impressive ... however, from my experience calibrating monitors with my i1 Display LT (same hardware as i1 Display 2), the Eye One Match software is definitely not as good as many other packages out there.

I'd strongly recommend you download a trial of BasicColor or ColorEyes Display Pro ... you will get much more accurate results.

Just remember your 2.2 gamma is just the average gamma ... you don't know whether your gamma is
(for example) too high at 20% IRE and too low at 80% IRE.

If you're interested in this stuff, download a copy of ColorHCFR (it's free). This is an excellent piece of software I use to calibrate my plasma TV. It gives you a lot more insight into your calibration results ... like a graph of gamma vs IRE level.
Click to expand...

ok so i followed the recommendation of rberger & i calibrated my monitor with the basiCColor software.

I used the preset sRGB profile, the only thing i changed to the target measurements was the luminance. In the preset it was set to 160 cd/m² & I changed it to 140 cd/m² (as in PRAD.de reviews)

So the target settings are:

White point / Kelvin 6500
Brightness / cd/m² 140
Black point / cd/m² 0,00
Contrast / x:1 Native
Gamma / average sRGB (~2,2)

Settings in my monitor to achieve the target indicators: (it was a bit harder to achieve them since the sofware is stricter (less rounding of numbers), so they are slightly different to the ones in post #1354)

Brightness: 4
Contrast: 96
Color: R(158) G(175) B(151)

Here are the results after calibrating (eye-one display 2 & basICColor display 4120 software) :

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/8875/27037494.jpg

Then i had the option to validate the settings:

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6866/92288685.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4237/80524580.jpg

Hope this answers some questions until the professional reviews arise. (which should be pretty soon)
 
Last edited:
joro126 said:
How much back light bleeding is acceptable?

Monitor #1
I don't really notice it in this one when I'm using it, but when I took a picture there seems to be a lot:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/koji126/004.jpg

Monitor #2
I notice only the top left part when I'm using it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/koji126/002.jpg
Click to expand...

Got my monitor yesterday and I have exactly one like your monitor #2. Slight bleed at the top left

Tried to take a picture http://koti.mbnet.fi/madmax/images/IMG_2116.JPG.
Not as good as yours, but should be noticeable ;)

No other problems with my monitor, no tinting, no color shifting etc. The only question is should I send it back and and hope I get a perfect one in return :(
 
Hello all...first post,

I calibrated my monitor using SpyderPro3 and got the following results:

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1155/calibration.jpg

0.312, 0.329 xy
Difference: 0.02
Kelvin: 6515k
Luminance: 122.7 cd/m2

I used the following settings to achieve it:

Monitor:

Brightness:30
Contrast:80
R:154
G:129
B:126
Sharpness:4
Dynamic Contrast: Off

I had to use ATI CCC to calibrate the brightness as setting the monitor to zero was not accurate enough and too bright, according to Windows 7 own display calibration wizard. So, in CCC, I set:

Gamma:1.25
Brightness: -48
Contrast:120

Is the way I calibrated using ATI CCC to set Gamma, Brightness and Contrast in conjunction with Monitor settings correct and recommended?

I have one stuck pixel which I can see on a green, white and cyan background but not black, red. Other than that, no tinting.

I cannot see no ghosting whatsoever during my gaming session this morning.

I do have a wierd problem where my screen goes all black when watching an episode of Fringe for a few seconds? Moving the mouse brings the picture back. I have set all sleep mode settings off to no avail. Anyone else experience this problem?

The IPS glow is rather disappointing. You can see the shift in black levels as you move your head off centre. For dark films, games, the monitor is the same as a good TN screen due to this black shift. For everything non black, the viewing angles are great.

Apart from the stuck pixel and IPS glow, it's a good screen, especially since I paid only £289 for it.
 
serendip1ty said:
ok so i followed the recommendation of rberger & i calibrated my monitor with the basiCColor software.

I used the preset sRGB profile, the only thing i changed to the target measurements was the luminance. In the preset it was set to 160 cd/m² & I changed it to 140 cd/m² (as in PRAD.de reviews)

So the target settings are:

White point / Kelvin 6500
Brightness / cd/m² 140
Black point / cd/m² 0,00
Contrast / x:1 Native
Gamma / average sRGB (~2,2)

Settings in my monitor to achieve the target indicators: (it was a bit harder to achieve them since the sofware is stricter (less rounding of numbers), so they are slightly different to the ones in post #1354)

Brightness: 4
Contrast: 96
Color: R(158) G(175) B(151)

Here are the results after calibrating (eye-one display 2 & basICColor display 4120 software) :

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/8875/27037494.jpg

Then i had the option to validate the settings:

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6866/92288685.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4237/80524580.jpg

Hope this answers some questions until the professional reviews arise. (which should be pretty soon)
Click to expand...


0.18cdm2 black depth and 776:1 contrast ratio with 140cdm2 brightness are actually very good results for IPS panel. On par with LP2475W. Waiting for TFT Centrals review with renewed hope.
 
wagsrules said:
I'm sure if you call HP they will replace it.
Click to expand...

Question is though, do I have to lie and make it sound worse than it is or can I just say there's a stuck pixel and I'm not 100% satisfied with the monitor? I love the monitor, just can't stomach a stuck pixel.
 
newuser52 said:
Thank you to everyone for all the great information. I am considering the ZR24w to sit side by side (landscape and sometimes portrait) with the older HP LP2475w. Does anyone have this setup? Can anyone provide me with information on how the two monitors would look together? Are the bezels the same size, are the colors and screens too different that they would be irritating, distracting, etc.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Well the LP2475w is wide gamut, the ZR24w is not.

jp0213x said:
I have been using this monitor for a week, so far I am quite pleased. I've experienced some color shifting but I am not surprised since its a LG panel. I am not sure what people are expecting from a monitor at this price point. I finally joined this forum after watching this thread for sometime. I think people are being way to picky about a monitor at this price point. I know people here are using this monitor for different purposes, but I think some here are expecting way too much. This is not a plasma tv, with deep black levels its not a high end LED panel, its simple monitor without all the bells and whistle. Sorry folks you get what you pay for. People who are interested in the monitor should just get it and make their own assessment, result will vary.
Click to expand...

The price is good, but personally I could put more money on the table...if only a better monitor existed !

I don't care about TVs, what I'm looking for is a good 24" 1920*1200 monitor, not slow, not wide gamut, not glossy, and of course not TN, what can you suggest ?
 
flove said:
Got my monitor yesterday and I have exactly one like your monitor #2. Slight bleed at the top left

Tried to take a picture http://koti.mbnet.fi/madmax/images/IMG_2116.JPG.
Not as good as yours, but should be noticeable ;)

No other problems with my monitor, no tinting, no color shifting etc. The only question is should I send it back and and hope I get a perfect one in return :(
Click to expand...

I'm really noticing it in my 2nd monitor when i'm watching a video with a dark background. I might RMA this one.
 
I too got one of these babies, and it surely takes some time to get used to it. Brightness is just too high for my taste, even if tuned down to zero, so I have to help it a bit via the graphic driver's brightness setting. What I don't like however is the backlight bleeding. It's clearly visible all across the left side of the screen, but getting worse in the lower left part. That, and a dead pixel, are the reasons why I'm going to get this exchanged.
 
Serendip1ty ... the i1 Display2 and Spyder3 are not going to yield the same readings/results. You can google around and see discussions about which device performs better.

One thing I'll reiterate ... I've seen scientific tests confirming that my i1 Display2 and yours are going to yield different readings/results. It's an inexpensive device, and the tolerances for inter-instrument agreement are not good enough to get consistent measurements. The same is true for Spyder3.

NEC supplies a customized i1 Display2 with their SpectraView calibration package for professional displays. That's one reason I chose to buy it rather than a Spyder3.

Another important thing to know is that the stock version of either of these colorimeters is not going to yield good measurements on wide gamut or LED displays. They need a correction to yield accurate measurements with the newer backlight technologies because wide gamut CCFL and LED have different spectral characteristics.

This stuff is fascinating but learning about how color really works makes my brain hurt! I got into it when learning how to calibrate my Samsung plasma TV.

Certainly anything more sophisticated than an i1 Display 2 is overkill for the ZR24W given it's limited color controls.
 
What i find rather suprising is the amount of negative comments of people who got the display & are turning it back.
For a second it makes me feel lucky but then i realise people have a good one probably don't feel the need to post anymore :)

rberger, like i said a couple of pages ago (this thread is moving fast) i'm not an expert whatsoever, but it certainly interests me though. thx for the info :)
The different results between the two types of sofware already confirmed for me that there is some margin of error to be considered = it's not perfect, but everything more expensive would indeed be overkill for this display.
 
Actually I think the general buzz so far has been quite positive ... just a few people complaining about tint compared to U2410, 2209WA or EA231WMi ... and HP service responding quickly to requests for replacements due to bad pixels.

I'm still considering ordering one myself. You've proven it calibrates very nicely.

I know I'm not going to like the IPS glow, but I know what to expect having spent some time with those other monitors I just mentioned.

I guess people are disappointed with the aspect ratio thing when using this monitor with a console. Certainly having things stretched instead of displaying 16:9 with black bars on the top and bottom
is a bummer.
 
I know this may already been asked, but how is the AG coating on this monitor? Is it as bad as the Dell U2410? That's why I returned that one, it was awful imo...
 
Hi, I'm new here. I got the ZR24w yesterday and I can see the difference in color between the TN panel and this IPS panel. However, I have a 2x1GB ATI RADEON 5870 (crossfire) setup and Crysis ran really smooth on my TN panel (Samsung Syncmaster 2233W) without any ghosting, but I can see a little ghosting on the IPS panel (even with overdrive mode on).

Also, I heard that the monitor doesn't come from the factory properly calibrated. Can someone tell me where can I get a free calibration software?

Thanks!
 
so, after 100hrs of use, i think i can give a better overview of the monitor.

Pros
excellent colors
crisp text
excellent price for a 24" 1920x1200 IPS
no noticeable input lag
excellent for gaming and movie viewing

Cons
internal scaler has issues
white glow from about 2 1/2 feet and closer

Other thoughts
blacks could be a bit blacker, but i cant complain too much
i do notice a very slight amount of ghosting, but thats only with white scrolling text on a black background. the text is still legible, but there is a noticeable ghosting.
i need another 5770
 
ice_141 said:
I want to know too, and if I have to lie and say there are other issues or if they'd swap it just for a stuck pixel. I want to call them tomorrow.
Click to expand...

have you tried that how to fix stuck pixel site? i tried a couple of those apps but to no avail...i'm sure HP would replace right?
 
xxBlackCrossxx said:
have you tried that how to fix stuck pixel site? i tried a couple of those apps but to no avail...i'm sure HP would replace right?
Click to expand...

I tried three different programs, tried rubbing the pixel, tapping the pixel, doing those things while the programs ran, nothing worked.

I'm not sure if HP will replace it for one stuck pixel, that's what I'm trying to find out. The monitor that this one replaced in HP's lineup had a zero pixel policy that meant if you had one bad pixel you got a replacement, but this one apparently doesn't. I guess some are saying HP's support is awesome and they'd swap them out anyway, but I want to make sure when I call so I don't screw my chances up.

I love the monitor, but for $400 I want something as close to perfect as I can get.
 
ice_141 said:
I tried three different programs, tried rubbing the pixel, tapping the pixel, doing those things while the programs ran, nothing worked.

I'm not sure if HP will replace it for one stuck pixel, that's what I'm trying to find out. The monitor that this one replaced in HP's lineup had a zero pixel policy that meant if you had one bad pixel you got a replacement, but this one apparently doesn't. I guess some are saying HP's support is awesome and they'd swap them out anyway, but I want to make sure when I call so I don't screw my chances up.

I love the monitor, but for $400 I want something as close to perfect as I can get.
Click to expand...

Well, I have a stuck pixel and like you no program or technique has removed it. Also, I have a weird issue where by my screen goes black for a few seconds when watching Fringe. I'm going to call HP tomorrow for a new one. Worst case scenario I can return for a full refund within 7 days using the Distance Selling Regulation law and place an order for another from my lady friend ;)
 
Man, I've had this monitor at home for almost a week now and I haven't even got the chance to properly play with it. :( The one hour I did get to spend with it was pretty amazing though. With overdrive on, no lag whatsoever. No dead pixels and awesome colours (compared to my HP laptop, compared to the w2207h it seems a bit better but not much at first sight).

The screen is dying to be calibrated though. Ordered one of those i1 display thingies, got the Lacie software so it should be a breeze to calibrate. Hope that stupid ash cloud hanging over Europe doesn't mess up the order though.
 
codeXone said:
How do you guys see no ghosting on this monitor? Its definitely noticeable on mine!
Click to expand...

I definitely did before turning on overdrive... did you try turning it on?
I have to admit, I don't play FPS games, only RTS and race games and didn't notice any noticable lag in GTR2.
 
Does turning on overdrive mess with the quality of the screen color wise?
 
I'm this close to ordering the monitor. I have a samsung 2443bwt now, which is a TN panel.
 
Yes, I turned the overdrive on. I didn't see ghosting while playing Dragon Age: origins which is an RPG, but I did definitely see it when i was playing Crysis! Its not a deal breaker, but its definitely there!
 
zod96, what is your desktop setup? Which video card do you have? I think I can see a little ghosting because I have an extremely powerful setup (2x 1GB Radeon HD 5870 in crossfire) which puts out frames faster than my HP monitor can refresh.
 
Well I don't have crossfire but I have a pretty powerful system

Ati 5870
8GB Ram
I7 860 at 4 GHZ
Intel P55 Chipset
Xfi Gamer Sound card


If I sell my other monitor for $100 plus my other stuff I can get about $200. Leaving the Hp about $200 more.
 
codeXone said:
Also, I heard that the monitor doesn't come from the factory properly calibrated. Can someone tell me where can I get a free calibration software?Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you have one of the supported calibration devices, you can download a free trial of BasicColor Display 4 from http://license.basiccolor.de/login.asp?oemId=1&language=EN (you have to register).

You can get a free trial of ColorEyes Display Pro from http://www.integrated-color.com/productdemo/demo.html.

Honestly, I can't see people spending $135 (best price I can find for Eye One Display LT) or even $80 for a Spyder3 Express to calibrate a $400 monitor. See my earlier post regarding the limitations of these devices.
 
So until I buy a better device, what's the best software helper to calibrate it by eye? I have a spyder2 express but I don't think I'll waste my time even setting it up (monitor should arrive tomorrow). Of all the monitors I used it on, I've only been satisfied with the results of one.


rberger said:
If you have one of the supported calibration devices, you can download a free trial of BasicColor Display 4 from http://license.basiccolor.de/login.asp?oemId=1&language=EN (you have to register).

You can get a free trial of ColorEyes Display Pro from http://www.integrated-color.com/productdemo/demo.html.

Honestly, I can't see people spending $135 (best price I can find for Eye One Display LT) or even $80 for a Spyder3 Express to calibrate a $400 monitor. See my earlier post regarding the limitations of these devices.
Click to expand...
 
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