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How much UPS is enough?

C

Cproflow

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 10, 2005
Messages
71
I didn't know exactly where this fits in, but I thought power supplies would be as good a place as any.

Recently, I've been getting several unexplainable BSODs on my system, and it is driving me nuts. From all my troubleshooting, I have been thinking it was my IP35 Pro :mad: Before starting into an RMA, I decided to try something else.

I began questioning my APC UPS. I feel it was a little undersized for the application. I have been using the 550 AVR model (which only covers 360 watts, or something). The rig it is powering is in my sig, with some additional items:

  • Sharp 32" Aquos for monitor
  • Pany XS55 digital receiver
  • printer (seldom on)
  • shredder (seldom on)
  • desklamp (often on)
  • baby monitor :)

I just today decided to pick up an APC 900 AVR, which I think will power 570 watts. So far no issues...but the BSODs were extremely intermittent (even under idle conditions)

Is this a legitimate troubleshooting tact? Is this 900 model even too low for what I have attached? I mean, I'm using a 700w power supply for starters! I know it is no always drawing that much, but I'm not to educated when it comes to electric loads and such ;)

What size UPS are others using? I know APC is probably not the 'best', but they are pretty reputable, and I have serious issues trusting the "Geek Squad" brand--as anything associated with Best Buy kinda makes me throw up in my mouth a little.
 
Whoops...didn't see there was a sticky about this up at the top. I'm starting to read it now. Still, any help or advice down in this thread is appreciated!
 
I have a CyberPower 1200AVR for my gaming computer and 20" monitor. Works like a champ, and has been for a couple of years now. I have had bad luck with the "OptiUPS" brand, you should stay as far away from that crap as possible. APC is of course good, although can be a bit more expensive than CyberPower.

You don't happen to play Hellgate: London do you? I didn't even know Windows Vista still had blue-screens until I started playing that game.;)
 
Unless your PC is ON battery power from the UPS (i.e. the power's out), it should just be passing power through from the outlet to the PC so no reason why it would be the source of any BSODs or whatever.
 
Cproflow said:
I didn't know exactly where this fits in, but I thought power supplies would be as good a place as any.

Recently, I've been getting several unexplainable BSODs on my system, and it is driving me nuts. From all my troubleshooting, I have been thinking it was my IP35 Pro :mad: Before starting into an RMA, I decided to try something else.

I began questioning my APC UPS. I feel it was a little undersized for the application. I have been using the 550 AVR model (which only covers 360 watts, or something). The rig it is powering is in my sig, with some additional items:

  • Sharp 32" Aquos for monitor
  • Pany XS55 digital receiver
  • printer (seldom on)
  • shredder (seldom on)
  • desklamp (often on)
  • baby monitor :)

I just today decided to pick up an APC 900 AVR, which I think will power 570 watts. So far no issues...but the BSODs were extremely intermittent (even under idle conditions)

Is this a legitimate troubleshooting tact? Is this 900 model even too low for what I have attached? I mean, I'm using a 700w power supply for starters! I know it is no always drawing that much, but I'm not to educated when it comes to electric loads and such ;)

What size UPS are others using? I know APC is probably not the 'best', but they are pretty reputable, and I have serious issues trusting the "Geek Squad" brand--as anything associated with Best Buy kinda makes me throw up in my mouth a little.
Click to expand...

My ip35 Pro with a Q6600 at 3.5 one 8000 GTS vidcard and 4 gigs 0 RAM and 3 drives will pull just over 300 watts continuous. Add to that a 24” monitor and my router and the transformer for my mouse and it jumps to right around 350 watts.

On an APC 1500 that gives me only 9 or so min of backup time. All other accessories such as your shredder, lights etc should be plugged in elsewhere if possible even on a different circuit.

Computer PSU’s in general are of poor design and need all the help they can get.

The APC units, in my mind and with much testing are probably the best value for the money as they also to a fair job of cleaning up the AC line noise which can account for many problems.

If you want to go first class take a hard look at Liebert products:

http://www.liebert.com/

I have been taking a deep look into various Intel 35 chipset issues:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1241656

and while you don’t show these symptoms I have noticed several machines that after a few blue screens have pretty well eaten the OS requiring a reinstall. On my own machine I found my over clock was limited to 3.1 but after taking the steps listed in the link and doing a clean install I’m now running at 3.5 running Folding at home 24/7 at 100% CPU load. I too was on the verge of RMA for the board, but it was all fixable.

Any how, just a few random thoughts and things to try.

Luck:)




 
Remove everything except for the PC from the UPS. If the BSOD's stop then you are overloading it, however if it is a basic standby design (aka not Line Interactive) then I don't think it is possible to overload it when running using the mains.
 
RoBo said:
Remove everything except for the PC from the UPS. If the BSOD's stop then you are overloading it, however if it is a basic standby design (aka not Line Interactive) then I don't think it is possible to overload it when running using the mains.
Click to expand...

Agreed, I have the luxury of a full dedicated 20 AMP circuit for each machine in this room and another for my other "Stuff".

However, the UPS he just got is smaller then I would reccomend.:)
 
The 550 AVR has a continuous tone when you're overloading it, even off battery. So unless it's screaming at you, you're probably not overloading it. That model even filters noise off the house line before it reaches the PC.

My UPS is a bit of overkill. It's an old Best Power Fortress 1420 rackmount with 65 pounds of batteries in it. It keeps my computer/router/etc running under full gaming load for over an hour. My dad plugged a vacuum cleaner into it once to test it, didn't even flinch (I did, though.)

I picked up a CyberPower 1250 AVR for my PS2 and TV. I like the light telling you when voltage regulation is active (usually when the heater turns on and browns the circuit), and the serial connection to Windows so if the battery runs low it'll shutdown the box.
 
synapsis said:
The 550 AVR has a continuous tone when you're overloading it, even off battery. So unless it's screaming at you, you're probably not overloading it. That model even filters noise off the house line before it reaches the PC.

My UPS is a bit of overkill. It's an old Best Power Fortress 1420 rackmount with 65 pounds of batteries in it. It keeps my computer/router/etc running under full gaming load for over an hour. My dad plugged a vacuum cleaner into it once to test it, didn't even flinch (I did, though.)

I picked up a CyberPower 1250 AVR for my PS2 and TV. I like the light telling you when voltage regulation is active (usually when the heater turns on and browns the circuit), and the serial connection to Windows so if the battery runs low it'll shutdown the box.
Click to expand...

Actually it’s a damn shame because to many of those old UPS units are simply scrapped.

I have one in the basement that weighs almost 250 lbs and was used in an old loan company office. It was installed along with a single IBM 400 and would probably run that thing for days on end. The downside of course is it needs like 40 or 50 lead acid batteries to make it play again and even at $15.00 each that’s a crazy investment.

The point is many good units can be found at the companies that buy and sell off the entire inventory of big corporations and government agencies whenever they go through hardware changes.

It’s kind of like high end dumpster diving but it can pay off.;)




 
I'd get a refurb APC SmartUPS 1000 or 1400.
Don't even think about putting your shredder on battery protection. I think you can wait until the power is back to shred.

The 32" TV alone needs 150-200W
Allow 400W for computer (for a sane machine)
50-100W for receiver.
10W for baby monitor
25W for inkjet printer. If it's a laser, it doesn't belong on battery backup.

So... I think SmartUPS SU1000NET 1000VA/670W is a good option.
 
I have a APC Smart UPS 2200VA :D Got it for free from our company as we change out UPS units every three years as a standard procedure (mission critical environment dealing with medical data). Popped fresh batteries and in viola, a $800 unit for free! It's an absolute lifesaver in my dorm. Have the following plugged into it and it isn't quite at half load yet:

Del 3007WFP
Core 2 Duo e6850 @ 4ghz 1.55v
8800GTX
4GB OCZ Ram @ 1066mhz
3 hard drives
Canon Mp600 All in One
60w halogen lamp
Monster HTS 3500 MK II
Melos SHA-Gold Reference tube headphone amp
Sony DVP-S300
Numerous chargers (phone, flashlight, razor, etc)

The APC is the nervous system of my dorm room control center. It runs everything for about an hour straight under 100% load when the power goes down. I can extend that runtime dramatically if I unhook the printer, lamp, and audio stuff.
 
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